gilera ice electrics up the shoot

[biker-dj]

Pardon me for being vague at the mo but my son's gilera's electrics have packed up, i know he's checked the fuse but the wiring is pretty shot are there any online manuals i can check - i've checked the links on this site but i cannot see any adresses for the Gilera Ice. Any help myself and son would be most appreciative
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Ride with the music!

[stinkwheel]

What's it doing/not doing?
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[biker-dj]

He can start the bike via kick start but even once its running he has no lights horn indicators etc. He's been told that one fuse does all but he assures me he's checked the fuse.
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Ride with the music!

[stinkwheel]

Well, if it has nothing other than the engine running, it kind of suggests something in a specific part of the loom that would be stopping power going to the rest of the bike rather than similtaneous failures throughout the bike (although this is not impossible with Italian electrics). I am generalising as I have no details of your specific machine.

I am assuming the bike has no immobaliser.

First off, check the battery is charged or at least has some power in it.

There now follows a ramble, in which I think I have covered most things but maybe not as clearly as I might have. A simpler test would be better first. Pull the connector block apart that connects the ignition switch to the loom. With a voltmeter or battery and bulb test between all the wires and earth. One of them (usually red, one of the fattest ones anyway) should be live. If it is not, the problem is with the wiring between the battery and the switch (vide infra), if it is, the problem is probably in the switch or fusebox.

Working through from the battery to the ignition switch.

So, battery terminals, connected and corrosion free?
As you said, fuse. There will be fuses in the fuse box but there may also be a seperate main fuse elsewhere. Follow the big fat wire from the battery positive, this will connect to the starter solenoid. Many bikes have a fuse built in to here so check that. Otherwise clean any corrosion off the terminals, pull the connector block apart and check this for corrosion.

The main power supply for the bike will either run from the starter solenoid, through a fuse to the ignition switch or from the battery positive through the main fuse and to the ignition switch. It will then usually run back down to the fuse box where it is split into lighting, accessories etc.

The main supply is almost universally carried on a red wire, some bikes are different though. Check for any inline fuses on this wire check for any breaks in this wire where it passes the headstock or past bodywork or for worn insulation that could cause it to short to the frame.

Pull apart any connector blocks it passes through and check for corroded terminals including the one on the fuse box.

If that all checks out, you are probably looking at a problem with the switch. Pull the connector block apart that goes to the switch. There will be two main switching events that happen in this. When it is in the 'off' position, two wires should be connected together, these are the ones that kill the engine. Another two will be an open circuit, these are the ones you are interested in. There will most likley be a thinner wire which switches the parking light, ignore this one meantime. In the 'on' position, the connections of the afore mentioned wires should be reversed. If they are not, your switch is malfunctioning. Try WD40 and wiggling.

If you are getting power to the switch and the switch is working, we need to reconsider.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[biker-dj]

I shall print that off and study it and do the checks you mention - thanks v much for taking the time to go through the checksI should do. I shall do that 2mro.
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Ride with the music!

[stinkwheel]

Might also be worth giving the fuse-box a thump with the heel of your hand too. There are often laods of relays in them if they are a 'black box' type which can become sticky.

I spent three hours a few weeks ago tracing an electrical fault on my mates GPZ500s that turned out to be a stuck relay. A tap with a rubber mallet fixed it.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Kye]

Check the main fuse near the battery
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Ducati 600SS
Vespa PX125

[Pat172]

as kye said the main fuse near the back (15 amp i think) controls all the electrics once started if the batt was a flat the lights shud still flicker unless 1) fude has blown 2) stator gone tits up
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- Suzuki Bandit N600

[biker-dj]

Thanks all for your help and advice I shall trying to sort the problem out Wednesday didnt get a chance today
____________________
Ride with the music!