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Oil change on CG125 - whats needed?

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simonthepiema...
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: 14:36 - 12 Apr 2005    Post subject: Oil change on CG125 - whats needed? Reply with quote

I want to change the oil on my CG as im putting quite a few miles on it doing 45 miles to go to work everyday, so what do i need? I have a haynes manual but it's rubbish for everyday maintenence only seems to be good if i want to strip the entire bike to a million pieces and re-build, which i dont as i wouldnt be able to put it back together!

Is it simply a question of running bike for about 30 sec. stop engine
Undo sump bolt - let drain for 5 mins

Then it talks about cleaning spring and gauze but with what white spirit? And lastly how important is it to get the torque setting right or is it ok tightening it by hand so long as i dont go mad?

Any wise words appreciated.
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mchaggis
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PostPosted: 14:57 - 12 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

White spirit is fine for cleaning the gauze filter. As for sump plugs, I've got by just tightening mine by feel until it doesn't feel like it wants to go any more, then putting another quarter turn on it.

Running for a bit more than 30 seconds might be an idea to get the oil properly hot and runny, or at least running it long enough to warm it up properly. Just be careful not to burn yourself.

Smearing oil around the rubber seal on the filter nut might make it easier to remove next time, but assuming it has the spring holding the gauze filter in, it's always a pain.
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Scotsman37
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PostPosted: 15:16 - 12 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Goto Halfords and get an oil measuring jug and 5L oil collecting container and that should be about £8 in total for that and you can empty the oil collecting container into cheap container for safe disposal at your nearest Council Refuge Collection Centre.

With the oil collecting container underneath the bike now remove the engine oil filler cap on the bike before removing the sump plug because it will allow the oil empty more quickly. Leave the bike for 5 - 10 minutes to get the remaning old oil out of it and even if nessecary rock the bike gently side to side to hurry it up!

The sump plug (coat the threading with engine oil to prevent rust) you hand tighten it on as much as you can and then use either a socket wrench/spanner and turn it another quarter but you don't want to over do it otherwise you could damage the sump plug. If you've got a torque wrench then put it one or two setting less than what the manual says and work your way up to it because the calibration of torque wrenches can go off slightly over time.

Fill the bike with Castrol oil or better and not the crappy Halfords own stuff as it reduced the performance in the 125 bike I had many years ago.

The oil filter can be cleaned or better still get a new one because they only cost a few pound to buy instead of wasting your time trying to clean a very old one.

Once done take the bike for a short run to get the oil circulated right around the engine and after few minutes with the engine off check oil level and add more oil if necessary to the specified level noted in your manual, engine oil view window or the engine's dip stick.
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mr.z
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PostPosted: 17:55 - 12 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its not a bad job to do, there might not be a sump plug on there (if its the brazilian model) the oil is emptyed from the filter houseing...

If you do clean the filter (if it looks bad then might be worth doing) make very very sure what you cleaned it with is gone by the time you put it back..

The thing with torque is its difficult to gage unless your quite experianced, it depends on who is doing it, what spanner your useing, where your holding the handle! IMO if you plan on doing anything like this reguarly then invest in one, because allthough you might get away with it 99% of the time on day you might not, and its never good.. overtightening the sump plug for example can cause hairline fractures in the caseing, giveing you a leak that will never be fixable (untill you change the case!) not to mention other horrors...

I was just retightening an inspection cover and had to guess it, the other bolt i could get to with it and it needed almost no pressure Shocked

Best to take the bike for a short run or let it idle for 5 minutes to warm up.. (dont forget the oil will be a little bit on the warm side when it comes out!)
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simonthepiema...
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: 20:49 - 12 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys, Good stuff just been to get some oil

It is the brazilian model, ive just gone and had a look. Where can I get a replacement filter element for it? I went into halfrauds and it didnt look too good. Anyone got a part number??
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mr.z
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PostPosted: 21:49 - 12 Apr 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your only likely to get an official honda one (phone your local honda dealer), to be honest its not really designed to be changed just cleaned unless it breaks obviously, if you really wanted it cleaning to new condition then you could get your local mechanic to out it in their parts cleaner, even better a sonic bath... would probably cost the same but will save the hassle...

It took me a while to work out there shouldn't be a sump plug, when you take the (sprung) filter cap off be carefull not to loose it in the oil, bit of a pain fishing it out!

I asked because i have the haynes for the older model but not that one so can't help much there... its worth getting one though, if you buy one new clymer do a better one..

good luck Very Happy Thumbs Up
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