Chains - Split Link Master-Clip

[ttandrew]

Whats the general view on using the Master-Clip split link as a temporary measure on a new chain on a zx6r. Is it safe enough until the bikes booked in to get the rivet link done correctly ? few garages ive phoned said some people dont even bother getting the rivet link put in and just use the split link ? little bro had the chain snap on him and hes not to keen on it happening again

[Kickstart]

Hi

Quick, take the tin opener off him before he spots another can of worms.

Yes it should be fine. The link is likely to be just as strong (as long as the correct split link was supplied) so it is down to the clip and whether that stays in place.

Suppose you could try using one of the really strong thread locks on the clip to stop if moving.

Yes a properly installed rivit link is probably safer, but it is a lot easier to tell that a split link is properly installed.

All the best

Keith
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[ttandrew]

cheers, just the haynes manual had me worried there when it had big warnings about never using master links, hes planning on booking it in this weekend/beggining of next to have the rivet link put in anyway, was just looking to see if it was okay to use in the meantime thats all.

As for thread-lock, have seen a number of sites saying that you should cover the master link in silicone to help it stay in place ?

[Kickstart]

[Kram]

when i bought my new chain, i bought a hand rivetor as well (£45), worth it in the end
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[stinkwheel]

Having had three split links fail, I will not use one on a bigger bike again. I think they are OK on smaller bikes with less power and speed.

It should be fine to take it somewhere to get it rivetted. Mine only gave out after they had a fair bit of use and under high load.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[mchaggis]

Surely split link clips shouldn't have any longitudinal load on them, so shouldn't (theoretically at least) really stand much chance of failing?
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[stinkwheel]

The last one I had fail split through the back plate ( the bit with the pins fixed to it) the spring pinged off one side but was still hanging on the broken end of the chain with the 'loose' plate still intact. The other half was gone.

I suppose the clip might have pinged off halfway and caused the split but the chain had been on for around 8k miles by that point so it must have been on properly to start with. I made a point of checking it whenever I cleaned the chain.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[mr.z]

Its possibly the fact that filth gets caught up in them and they could be pushed off/caused to fail that way, kept spotlessly clean i can't see allot of reason for the to ping off either, unless like mentioned they are monkey metal and not intended for normal use as privious ones were?

A mate has used them for years and never had a problem, they are often used for drag raceing too... if they are kept in good order i think generally you'll be ok

Still i prefer the riveting idea, got myself a spliter/press/riviter off e-bay for £35 and it seems very good, as good as the £70 ones you find in catalogs anyway (not used it yet though)
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[stinkwheel]

So how many miles does a chain used in drag racing cover before it is stretched to buggery and needs replacing? One mile (four runs)? Less?

Many race bikes don't use o-ring chains and are lubed with gearbox oil, doesn't mean it is the best way for on the road.

I agree about the muck, but who keeps their bike chain spotless? I bought a scotoiler so I don't have to keep doing that. The links still failed. Two on a GPZ500s and one on my MZ s-moto.

I will keep using rivetted chains and hopefully end my life with both feet attached to the end of my legs.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[mr.z]

(if i had it my way all bikes would be shaft driven anyway, i'd settle for an enclosed chain )

Very good point with the drag raceing though ok if ye change your chain every 10 miles

For the £10 a mechanic would charge to fit it or the reasonable price the propper tool costs now imo a split link is not really worth the risk

As stinkwheel so rightly pointed out.. ever seen an engine caseing thats been twated with a flaling chain? that would hurt a fair old bit, not to mention locking your wheel up at whatever speed your doing at the time
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>RidingSkills<->Tech Tips<->MyBikes<

[stinkwheel]

Enclosed chains are excellent. All the advantages of shaft drive with none of the disadvantages.

The Japanese seem allergic to them though, their efforts at enclosed chains were poor and really just acted as a barrier to checking your chain properly. The Russians have it right, they box in the sprockets and run the chain through two long rubber gaiters between the boxes. Boil the chain in graphite grease then fit it, the gaiters ensure the grease stays on the chain and is evenly spread over it without any grit getting mixed in.

The enclosed chain on my Jawa has done 30k miles. I checked it at 20k and it was still like brand new, didn't even need to lube it.

Quick release rear wheels are also a great invention (chain and sprocket remains fixed to the swingarm when you drop the wheel out).
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Kickstart]

Hi

Sounds to me like one of the chains Stinky had fail would have failed in much the same way with a rivited chain.

In theory there is no sideways load on the clip. In practice a seriously stressed strain will have probably the pins bend slightly and probably slide the side plate slightly. Only going to be a problem with an under strength chain, which is fairly easy to have. For example an old M&P catalogue I have lists the tensile strengths of various grades of DID chain, and with a 530 chain that varies from 3150Kg/F for a standard chain to 4722 for the 530ZVM Gold X ring chain, which is a hell of a range.

All the best

Keith
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[ZRX61]

Used spilt links for 30 years, never had one fail. Just clean the plate & clip with laquer thinner & then put a dab of silicone sealer on it once it's together.. you can also safety wire it if yer really paranoid..