not the usual paint question.

plugger147 · World Chat Champion Joined: 13 Mar 2005 Karma :

I currently have my bike in bit's i've rubbed down and primed most of the frame,swingarm wheels,headlight subframe etc.i'm thinking of painting these bit's with hamerite aerosols and am wondering what the finish,durability would be like?
Is there a better alternative that anyone knows of(powder coating's a bike expensive).
i just want a clean tidy bike that's not gonna start rusting in a years time.
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gsxrpeak · Trackday Trickster Joined: 06 Apr 2005 Karma :

im not an expert but i beleve that hammerite is pretty tuff shi* and it will surtanly prevent rusting if used properly! Thumbs Up

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plugger147 · World Chat Champion Joined: 13 Mar 2005 Karma :

cheers mate i thought as much,I've rubbed out 99% of the surface rust,treaded an awkward bits with rust treatment then primed most of it so i think the prep works pretty good,just don't wanna mess up with the wrong paint.
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Tristan the wrote: just whipped off my trousers to find a big bruise on my arse, caused by matt rear ending me...

mchaggis · World Chat Champion Joined: 10 May 2004 Karma :

Do look at Smoothrite, made by the same company. I don't know about you, but I'd prefer a smooth finish compared to a hammered effect finish on my bike frame.
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Discovering the delights of Hammerite and a 3/4" brush. Very Happy

mr jamez · World Chat Champion Joined: 04 Aug 2003 Karma :

Hammerite is designed to be applied straight to metal, I don't think it would take too well to primer. Is the frame alloy or steel? (I guess steel as you mentioned corrosion) It doesn't work too well on alloy at all. It has no anti rust properties so if there is rust under the paint it will continue to corrode until the paint blisters and falls off, it's a bit prone to chipping as well. Smooth finish hammerite gives a good enough finish, just buy a tin and a paint brush, don't need to mess with rattle cans.

What I do on my arches and sills on the mini is two coats of stonechip paint, two coats of primer then a load of top coat. 10,000 miles later it is still there, with no signs of anything getting through it and no corrosion.

plugger147 · World Chat Champion Joined: 13 Mar 2005 Karma :

thanks chaggis that was the stuff i was thinking of.
cheers men.
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Tristan the wrote: just whipped off my trousers to find a big bruise on my arse, caused by matt rear ending me...

brownoverall · Derestricted Danger Joined: 07 May 2005 Karma :

Catching up with this a bit late, sorry - I hate to rain on the parade but Hammerite and Smoothrite are not oil or petrol resistant. Don't believe me - phone up their prized paint hotline and ask... It's a shame, cos the strength of Hammerite and Smoothrite comes from using ground glass in the pigment...

But all is not lost, as a modern solution offers itself. Before you stump up your spondulicks for proper stove enamelling, consider using twin-pack acrylic as a brushing paint... Think black Araldite.

Most good car paint suppliers like Morellis sell twin-pack, they just don't expect you not to spray it... Check out the correct mixing quantities carefully (ISTR it's 2 parts paint to 1 part hardener, but it's a few years and the little grey cells have more and more trouble finding each other...) and don't mix too much up in one go. The neat, unthinned paint is still quite a liquid finish compared to Smoothrite, so it goes on easily and leaves a nice smooth finish when brushed (a bit like old fashioned brushing enamel, if anyone remembers that...) Twin pack can be overcoated once it's gone off - depending on the type of paint and the mix, anything from 30 mins to overnight. Quick rub down with some 380-400 grit wet+dry, wipe down with thinners, second coat and you've got a rock hard, fuel-proof finish that resists stone chips and banging with a Number 2 micro-adjuster...

If you really want to kill the rust for good, after you've done your sanding/wire brushing/bead blasting, wipe down with thinners, then use a rust converter fluid on any visible specks of rust. Make sure you've sanded / wire brushed the surface of the metal to key the paint, though, or it'll chip easily. Then use a high-build rust-proof (zinc oxide) primer - just brush it and let it dry thoroughly overnight, preferably somewhere warm like the airing cupboard. (What d'yer mean, it's full of washing?). Give it a light sanding to key the surface (and remove any runs) with 380-400 grit wet+dry and continue as above. Having a slightly softer primer under a hard top coat acts a shock absorber and actually helps protect against stone chips.

Sorry to get all technical on you, but hey, that's what BOs do Smile

Ride safe,
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ZRX61 · Victor Meldrew Joined: 05 Nov 2003 Karma :

brownoverall · Derestricted Danger Joined: 07 May 2005 Karma :

> Just remember that the fumes from 2 pack contain
> CYANIDE from the isocyanate base.. think Bhopal...

Rumbled. How the devil is an old BO going ter knock off enough of you youngsters ter liberate a decent Bonneville... ? Twisted Evil

Seriously (a) this is very true and (b) doing the painting by hand in a well ventilated space (as opposed to spraying without a mask) is probably quite safe. Never did me any h-h-h-h-h-h-arm.

Ride safe - every cage on the road is a potential SMIDSY....
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