Have I bought a lemon?

[DanceLikeAMon...]

Morning.

I got my new GS500e ('94 model - 33000 miles) last night and took it out this morning for a test ride.

First problem I found was that the choke didn't work - you couldn't physically move the switch - so I had to hold the throttle back for a minute or so to warm it up. As soon as I let go the engine dropped to about 500-1000 rpm, then a few seconds later it died.

I assumed it was just a cold engine, so rode the bike out slowly for a few miles, but as soon as I stopped at some lights the bike died again.

Since then it cut out every single time I stopped the bike.

Roughly how much does it cost to get a choke fixed, and Is it likely to be linked to the bike cutting out or is that going to be a whole new problem to look at?

Thanks for any advice.

[beasty1711]

1. Choke prob sounds like a seized cable... prob cost bout £10 - £15 for a new one..

the bike stalling could also be linked to this prob... or tickover a little low...

i'd start with changing the choke cable and then try it again
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[Robby]

Probably just a siezed choke cable. Take the cable off and see if you can move the cable in its outer.

The cutting out could be blocked idea jets, sounds to me like its been standing. Try running some redex or similar through the system and a tank of high detergent petrol. Try and get some 3 in 1 oil into the choke cable, lots of, and leave it for a few hours to work its way in.

If that doesn't sort it take the cable off. Just sounds like its been standing so your carbs have silted up and bits and pieces have siezed.

[G]

As mentioned, oil your choke cable (with it off the bike, if you can) and stick some redex or similar through to clean the carbs.

It could just be the idle is too low... turning it up should solve your problem in the short term anyway.

[DanceLikeAMon...]

That all sounds promising, cheers!

I was going to get the bike serviced anyway, so I will let the mechanics take care of it.

[map]

Agree with comments above.
Symptoms you describe could be down to bike being stood for a period.
Would get a service for any bike new to me - change all the liquids and filters, check brake caliphers/pistons and pads, new set of plugs and as said oil cables. At least then you'll have a known starting point.

HTH
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[Scotsman37]

I would inspect the entire exhaust system i.e. that the nuts are torqued on correctly which hold the downpipes against the engine as they maybe now loose, pour water with some washing-up liquid to see if there is any bubbles coming out from where the downpipes connect up to the silencer. If they are leaking badly then as the bike is going for a service ask the mechanic to reseal the exhaust.

Either of these can make the bike's engine lose compression as they need to be air tight !

You have definitely like the other person has said have got a rusted up choke cable which will need to be replaced asap !

Yes, do get the carbs cleaned thoroughly because it sounds like it hasn't had a proper service for a while....

[Spazzy]

it also could be too do wid your down pipe from your fuel tank!!

[Method]

I have exactly the same bike mate, same kind of milage.
What i would suggest is if you slip your hand past where your clutch cable enters its resting place, and have a fiddle about underneath the carbs you will find a kind of twisty nob thing. i duno how to explain it, its basicaly a circle on the end of a stick pointing downwards. if you turn that it will screw up and down depending on what way you turn it. Thats your idle adjusting screw and turning that will make your idle speed higher or lower, raise your idle speed a little and see if that helps. My guess is that it might be too far unscewed and causing there to be nearly no idle.
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[DanceLikeAMon...]

Yup, adjusted it and move it up so it idles at about 1200 rpm, and it holds it there fine.

Having taken all the fairing off though, the winker that sold it me claimed that it had new fork seals fitted, when in fact there is only one in place, the other is half rotted away and just hanging off the stantion.

Booked it in for a service on Tuesday, so we shall see what the damage really is!

[G]

He was probably reffering to fork oil seals. If this is not fitted you should be able to see the internal of the fork and it would very rapidly dispose of it's oil over your front tyre.

I suspect what you are looking at is a dust seal. This isn't nearly as important as the actual oil seal, but is still worth replacing if you have the time. He probably didn't push it down again properly. You just need to slide it back down the fork leg and wedge it in.

[Kickstart]

Hi

As a very short term bodge for the choke.

Follow the cable down to the carbs. It probably goes in from the side (while the throttle cables go in from above), and probably has a 90 degree bend in it there.

Gently pull the 90 degree bend section away from the carb by 5mm~10mm. This pulls the choke on, and you might be able to seat the cable end such that it holds it on.

I would not recommend doing this for long, nor trying it when riding, but it might help if you have problems starting the bike or want to let it warm up a second while you put your lid on.

The seal you can see is probably just the dust seal not the actual hydraulic seal.

All the best

Keith
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[DanceLikeAMon...]

Yeah it sounds more like the dust seal, since there is no oil coming out (thank God one less thing to worry about)

Adjusting the carb was fine when the engine was cold, but when it warms up it is idling at about 3000rpm which makes slow speed handling a bitch! So I think something is amiss

Method - it looks like the key for it isn't the original as it starts the bike and opens the fuel cap, but only with a bit of wiggling and it won't open the lock for the seat at all. I don't suppose you know of a way to manually open it do you?

[ZRX61]

[Nath]

[DanceLikeAMon...]

Aye, I have taken a strop with it and chained it all up for the day, but I will fidle with the carb settings and see if I can find a happy medium.

On another note, I have been quoted £90 for a service. Is that about right? Will that cover most things that I need checked?

God, I wish I was good at mechanics, I really do...

[Bomberman]

I'd get it to a reasonable idle speed before it gets too cold tbh mate. You don't want to be fiddling with it when you can't get the bike to start at all tomorrow. I did that and it was a real pain in the arse trying to get it back going again.
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[DanceLikeAMon...]

Too late, it's been sitting out there for an hour, and it's spitting out there now as well so there's no way I'm going outside again today! I'm off work until Monday, so I can goof around with the settings 'til my hearts content (or I beat the shit out of it with a big stick) tomorrow!

[extreme3d]

[DanceLikeAMon...]

It looks straight, but it's a copy, so maybe it is just a dodgy cut. I have to wobble it in the ignition a bit as well as the petrol cap.

I only have the one key anyway so I will get another copy made and see if that works any better.

Ta.

[DanceLikeAMon...]

Nice one Extreme3d, I went to the hill today and got a new key cut, and it works fine - even opens up what can laughingly be called under seat "storage".