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Exhaust paint tips and application

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The Tot
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PostPosted: 20:30 - 05 May 2005    Post subject: Exhaust paint tips and application Reply with quote

I was having a good old clean down on my bike this afternoon when i tried to remove some surface rust on my exhaust (black) with a souring pan, you know, the kind you clean your kitchen appliances with since i happened to have run out of coarse grain sandpaper.

Upon doing so, i realised i had pretty much scratched off half of the paint on the muffler and seem pretty cheesed off that the metal was showing through. I've decided to scour all the paint off the muffler and if i can get hold of a dremel multi-tool so that i can finish the job properly.

Now, can anybody recommend some good heatproof paint? Or should i just sand down the whole of the exhaust and get some lacquer. Any sensible tips on applying them? The pipes look a bit tarty at the moment and i'd want to improve their aesthetics somewhat when selling time comes. Cheers for any tips.

Titot
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mchaggis
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PostPosted: 20:32 - 05 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

High temperature barbecue paint from B&Q is the one normally recommended on here IIRC.
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Stew
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PostPosted: 20:44 - 05 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

mchaggis wrote:
High temperature barbecue paint from B&Q is the one normally recommended on here IIRC.

Thats exactly the stuff I used when I sorted my exhaust last week.

Think they also sell 'woodstove paint' which is the same as the BBQ paint only it has a more matt appearance.

<edit> The Paint was bought from B&Q but the brand was actually plasti-kote, just so you know</edit>
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Last edited by Stew on 21:00 - 05 May 2005; edited 1 time in total
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The Tot
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PostPosted: 20:53 - 05 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks you guys. Once you've applied it in coats, no lacquer is required right? i presume a whole tin will last the whole exhaust? How much do they cost? I'll have a look around for it tomorrow and see what colours they have - i either want to paint it as close to the original matt black as possible, or completely go the other way and paint the thing in a metallic colour, but i think that darker colours will hide any imperfections better.

Cheers people.
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cagiva gezzer
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PostPosted: 21:05 - 05 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

VHT exhaust paint works well for me. See if you've got someone who does bead blasting near you, then you can get a much nicer finish.
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DanceLikeAMon...
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PostPosted: 21:05 - 05 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry to jump in, but do you have to remove every trace of rust before you can slap the paint on, or can you just use a rust killer then paint on top of that?
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mr jamez
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PostPosted: 21:06 - 05 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

BBQ paint is only available in black as far as I know. The hammerite high temp paint might come in some different colours (and has a matt finish)

Best way to get rid of surface rust is a wire wheel on a drill or some sandpaper.


Last edited by mr jamez on 21:07 - 05 May 2005; edited 1 time in total
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Stew
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PostPosted: 21:06 - 05 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

All I did with mine was wire brush the rusty bit (just the part which contains the exup valve in my case as the rest was replaced with new metal), gave it a wipe down to remove the dust then sprayed 7/8 light coats of paint. I used about half a can on the section that I painted. The paint costs £5.95 per can afaik.
The rest of the downpipes I just polished, although that will quickly fade to being dull again. On some bikes its amazing how different a bike can look with a cleaned up exhaust (not on mine as they are all hidden behind fairings Rolling Eyes )
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DanceLikeAMon...
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PostPosted: 21:08 - 05 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

My only concern is that my downpipes look pretty rusty (they used to be hidden behind fairing) and if I rub them too much they might collapse.
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mr jamez
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PostPosted: 21:18 - 05 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

DanceLikeAMonkey wrote:
My only concern is that my downpipes look pretty rusty (they used to be hidden behind fairing) and if I rub them too much they might collapse.


It would take you days to rub through them with sandpaper! if you managed to, then that means the rot is so bad they would have holed of their own accord within no time anyway.
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DanceLikeAMon...
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PostPosted: 22:13 - 05 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Phew! Thumbs Up
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 01:15 - 06 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

mr jamez wrote:
Best way to get rid of surface rust is a wire wheel on a drill or some sandpaper.

yeah, 60 years ago... the best way is bead blasting...... Rolling Eyes
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Ric
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PostPosted: 02:48 - 06 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZRX61 wrote:
mr jamez wrote:
Best way to get rid of surface rust is a wire wheel on a drill or some sandpaper.

yeah, 60 years ago... the best way is bead blasting...... Rolling Eyes



i couldnt find my bead blast case, vetilation system blah blah blah in the garage the other day so.............


...............i must admit i used that mid 1950's method of a power drill and wire wheel, works fine but wear eye protection
Laughing
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