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NY_Sniper
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 20 Dec 2004
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PostPosted: 22:57 - 08 May 2005    Post subject: spraying your bike Reply with quote

im thinking of spraying my ZXR400 in kawak green but id like some tips on things like prep and atual spraying

any advice will be a gr8 help
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Kaben
World Chat Champion



Joined: 09 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: 00:21 - 09 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Arrow Sand back the surfaces you wish to spray (removed from bike) to a smooth surface with something like 800 wet 'n' dry paper. No need to remove all of the previous color, just to a point where it definitely wont be able to flake off.
Arrow Clean the surface with alcohol or white spirit to remove any grease/dirt.
Arrow Spray with minimum of two coats of primer. Allow to dry and give a gentle rub back with the finest sand paper you can get your hands on (1000ish), this will give it some key. (no need to go mad here, just a gentle rub)
Arrow Another clean with white spirits wouldnt go amiss here, just to make sure you dont get patchy paint from oily marks

Arrow Spray the top coat on with the can held approx 12 inches from the surface at about a 45 degree angle.
Arrow Start spraying before you hit the leading edge of the surface and stop after leaving the trailing edge (this keeps the edges of the fairing painted as well as the main surface). Move down half an inch and spray back in the opposite direction, keeping it smooth and watching out for drips.
Arrow I would recommend at least 4 coats of your top colour.
Arrow After your final top coat,again gently rub with very fine sandpaper and clean with white spirits.
Arrow Spray on a laquer in the same way, but the more coats you can afford to put on, the fuller and deeper your paint job will look.


Hope this helps matey
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 03:29 - 09 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="Kaben]Hope this helps matey[/quote]
It would possibly could have done if it didn't contain so many common mistakes...
#1: 800 is NOT the garde he wants, use 400

#2: Clean the surface with wax & grease remover

#3: If he didn't sand thru to the substrate there is NO NEED for ANY primer

Ya had a few other glaring cockups listed, I can't be arsed to list the rest..
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feef
Energiser Bunny



Joined: 11 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 10:14 - 09 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZRX61 wrote:

#3: If he didn't sand thru to the substrate there is NO NEED for ANY primer


Althougth if ther are some scratches or minor surface imprefections from repairing cracks (like on mine) plastic filler-primer can be handy to hide those little blemishes (literally "little" blemishes.. it's NOT Isopons!)

a
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Ric
Could Be A Chat Bot



Joined: 22 Nov 2004
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PostPosted: 12:21 - 09 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZRX61 wrote:
[quote="Kaben]
#3: If he didn't sand thru to the substrate there is NO NEED for ANY primer


what does this mean, the previous layer of paint?

mate u should write a guide, save u point out people faults in there methods Cool

just a random question, can u not paint strip? then sand for a 'key'

i kno very little so need some guidance
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feef
Energiser Bunny



Joined: 11 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 12:55 - 09 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ric wrote:

just a random question, can u not paint strip? then sand for a 'key'

i kno very little so need some guidance


noooooo don't try and strip any paint off...

that will all get very messy....

just sand down.. if you get thru to the plastic, you will need to prime that area...

a
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Kaben
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Joined: 09 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: 12:57 - 09 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

By previous layer of paint i mean the existing top coat.
You will not want to sand back all teh way with 800 for that will take ages, but finish the surface off with 800 to remove any fine scratches or nicks. The paint will enhance these scratches and make it look shoddy. You could indeed just use paint stripper and then sand to smooth and key, but i personally hate paint stripper, and will only use it on areas that are nigh on impossible to sand effectively.
I would strongly suggest that you ignore ZRX61's comment about not having to use primer. The use of primer prevents the paint layers from "sliding" off the surface of the item your painting and provides a constant surface preventing slight blemishes where the paint becomes in contact with different substrates. (especially if when sanding, some parts have been taken back to the base substrate,whilst others have remnants of paint upon them)

There is no need to be particularly pedantic to what you use to remove the oil/greasy marks. alcohol/spirits based cleaners work sufficiently well, but make sure you A: do not scrub with it, B: do not leave it on too long, as this will cause the paint to strip or smudge slightly.

I do not believe that there are "glaring mistakes" with this method,just pedantic issues that ZRX61 has. I have used this method to paint many machines, some of which have spent over 4 months in winter weather and still look pristine.......cant be going that wrong can i? I have not written an exact guide, but with a little common sense it should be useful to you,respraying is very simple as long as you prepare properly.

I look forward to your alternative guide ZRX61, so that i can make needless abusive comments and pick needless holes Middle Finger Mr. Green Middle Finger
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 14:38 - 09 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kaben wrote:
The use of primer prevents the paint layers from "sliding" off the surface of the item your painting and provides a constant surface preventing slight blemishes where the paint becomes in contact with different substrates. (especially if when sanding, some parts have been taken back to the base substrate,whilst others have remnants of paint upon them)

I said "if you haven't gone thru to the substrate" or words to that effect..... Rolling Eyes

And primer does NOT "prevent the paint layers from "sliding" off the surface of the item your painting".... if there's already paint on there then using primer is a complete waste of time & money... What prevents the paint from sliding off as you put is is the key in the previous layer from sanding. If there are any holes thru to the substrate you can just spot prime em with SEM primer from a rattle can.
If the bike is different colours then ya just use an epoxy based sealer tp prevent bleed thru: ONE coat, PPG DPLF48 or DP90 works, reduce is about 10% & spray it on, must be top coated within 24 hours or ya have to sand it a bit with red scotchbrite to key it.

This guy has a clue or 3:
https://www.cobralads.com/butcher32.html

The Halfords site thing I looked at the other day was basically a list of different ways to completely fuck up a paint job.
4 months of winter weather isn't exactly something to base the quality of a paint job on, 10 years would be better.... Some of my paint jobs are guaranteed by the paint suppliers (PPG & Dupont) for the life of the vehicle, are yours?
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 14:40 - 09 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kaben wrote:
i personally hate paint stripper, and will only use it on areas that are nigh on impossible to sand effectively.

3M made foam backed sanding pads that about about 3/16thick, 4x5in square, in 3 or 4 grades that ya use wet, perfect for getting into tight spots.
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Kaben
World Chat Champion



Joined: 09 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: 17:35 - 09 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

cheers,just looked on their website,may look into getting some of those for future projects Thumbs Up

Currently been using sand paper attached to a piece of dowling, so it could be used like a file for tight spots, so i can smooth off the surface after stripping.
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Kaben
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 00:09 - 10 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Im sorry but i have been taught to respray vehicles by someone that does it for a living, so i cant be doing it wrong or else he would be out of business,or at least have a very unhappy customer base. I also help out at his workshop when he has a high workload on the go.
Fair enough his work is commonly baked and not of an identical process but he taught me for the use of spray cans and air curing as well.

Of the site you linked yourself he uses primer + hardener. I dont understand why you would be lazy enough to not use it? Priming a surface makes it fresh and primers are made for optimum paint adhesion.They are ALWAYS used in the shop and i always use them on any work i do. Miraculous that your paintjobs have stayed so pristine.
He also says on that very site that no two people spray paint in the same way and i would probably have to agree with this, as this thread and many others i have posted in show.

Im glad you feel so very confident in your respray style,but please dont poo-poo my advice list which listed useful tips for a beginner painter.

Im done with this thread now, for i cant be arsed to argue over pedantic niggles.

I hope this thread has provided some small help anyway NY_sniper, good luck with the spray and post some pictures when its done.

Oh and make sure you do it somewhere where there is no wind (causes spattering), and if inside well ventilated! dont want to get too high on the fumes! If doing it in a garage, throw some water on the floor before you start to stop any dust from kicking up and sticking to your stick new paint job.

good luck matey Thumbs Up
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Grubby
Spanner Monkey



Joined: 15 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: 00:27 - 10 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would add that seeing as you're obviously doing this at home use filler primer. It takes out all the pinpricks that marr an otherwise good, home done respray. Thumbs Up
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 02:17 - 10 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kaben wrote:
Im sorry but i have been taught to respray vehicles by someone that does it for a living,

Is he certified by Dupont & PPG etc? Do the paint manufacturers guarantee his paint jobs for life? The BEST *primer* is the paint thats already on the car/bike/aircraft/whatever.
If you want to argue paint quality in the UK with someone who knows WTF they are doing maybe you should take it up with my step brother, he supplies Ford with all their paint in the UK....
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 02:19 - 10 May 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Grubby wrote:
I would add that seeing as you're obviously doing this at home use filler primer. It takes out all the pinpricks that marr an otherwise good, home done respray. Thumbs Up

Where did he say there was any damage? He apparently wants to do a complete, not a crash repair (which is a different kettle of fish)
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