3 possible problems!, Need help with this

[UpcomingChris]

I have made a post before, and it has died out, So i'm making a new one in hope of getting some answers.

I put my CG125 W away one night, All was running perfectly fine, Apart from the battery was On it's way out.

I have since recharged the battery, and that is fine

About a month later, tried to get it out, And it would not start.

After doing some testing on it i figured that there is no spark from the plug. The plug was in pretty bad shape so i bought a new one, The correct one, And still no spark, now i'm no mechanic, and i know very little as i am a new rider.

I figures it must be the Coil or HT lead, Either that or maybe the CDI? I don't see how it would just stop working, for no reason.

So my question is, How can i go about testing the HT lead / Ignition coil?, Please if you could take a little more time to explain things i would appreciate it allot!


Thanks

Chris

[zombie_dave]

do you get any ignition lights come on?

is it a kick or electric start???
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ZombiE_DavE

[UpcomingChris]

[unitynotsocri...]

You can check the coil resistance with a MULTIMETER.Check the reading against the manual.From what you say about storing it a short while ,i'd check the sidestand cutout switch (if fitted) for corrosion. Cdi 's can be checked with a multimeter if they are simple ones.Drain the carb bowl for fresh juice.
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nearly a normal tax paying tosser.......with ferrileness suzi100,cg125,cb125scb100n,cb175,cd100,cj250t,kh250,c15,125 bantam,super 6,rickman gs750,xt500,250rs,dt175,lifan125,dolomite1850,metro,Morris220ld,morrisfg,leyland princess,range rover,corsa,vw camper .now struggling with legs. MORE ORDER = MORE CHAOS

[UpcomingChris]

[jimspeed]

where abouts are you mate , if you are close enough I don't mind taking a look at it for you. I'm in Ludlow shropshire tho
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Hyosung cruise 125(passed test on, sold) Kawasaki el 252 (better than expected but sold on) Kawasaki GPZ500S first "big"bike.(sold) ZZR600 E5..Z750 2007,ER5, currently on a 2008 Enfield bullet electra x and loving it..
,"Alpha-9: Is there any correlation between dyno rod and dyno kits?"

[Frost]

Lights will work even if the battery is only putting out 10volts, and half an amp.
The starter motor on the other hand needs 12volts and plenty of amps, so the lights working tell you the battery isn't 100% flat, but it might be 99% flat.
The spark plug won't spark unless the side of it is touching the engine. The spark might also be invisible in bright light, so try it in the dark.
The bike might be flooded from failed attempts at starting it, so kicking i over a bunch of times with the plug out will clear it out.

[UpcomingChris]

[UpcomingChris]

[temeluchus]

Electronic ignition needs some current to work, a dead battery or no battery and it won't work.

Try charging the battery.
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Some shite cruiser. Now with guns and FREEDOM!

[pepperami]

Some times with bikes all the wiring can be in place and connected but something is just not right...... it happens with all sorts of bikes.

So go through your wiring and double check that you dont have a poor connection somewhere and ensure you earth is good

you may find that apart from looking at a few terminals you`ve done nothing ......... but your spark may come back.
Remember that the wires can go hard with age, heat, & time and crack but you cant see it because they are wrapped in plastic.

I have had similar problems with a couple of bikes (older ones) in the past and just running through the electrics and checking connections has helped.

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I am the sum total of my own existence, what went before makes me who I am now!

[MickC]

You say its a kick start what year is it?
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XX XXXx
Previous: CG125,XS250 (converted to 400),Z250A, GPZ550, Norton Commando, XS500, 78 Laverda Jota, GPZ1100,Harris bonneville, XV750 (mono shock),TR1

[UpcomingChris]

[Teflon-Mike]

Basics first:
1/ clean the spark plug.
2/ make good 'earth' for plug, by putting the metal bit of the plug in the jaws of a jump lead clip, and attach other end of jump lead to battery '-'.
3/ Ensure that the ignition is switched 'on', kill switch in 'run', clutch in, and any other ignition inhibitors such as side stand cut out switch, alarm imobiliser etc, are de-activated.
4/ kick the bugger over, and see what you get on the plug.
As Frost, make sure you have good earth and dim light, and good plug.

If you REALLY dont have anyting, thn start fault finding, working back from the plug.

Is plug 'good'? Is the cap making contact? Is the wiree into the cap loose? Is the wiree into the coil loose? Is the wire onto the coil loos... is the multi plug to the ignition switch damaged? Ar the wires from the generator to the CDi plugged in properly? What about the CDi connectors?

CG is turnd off by turning 'on' a circuit from the CDi to earth. Anything shorting out that circuit will be turning 'off' the ignition... so look for bare wires, and look for broken wires.

THEN we can get busy with the multimenter.

You use it in two modes; Ohms, measures resistance. Put it on Ohms and touch the test probes together, needle should swing all the way accross the scale... means you have made a good circuit with no resistance in it.

Touch test probes to your tong... YES try it! Needle should swing some way, showing a circuit mad by your saliva, and rading will be its resistance.

Hold probes apart, or touch them to a bit of plastic, and needle wont swing, becouse no circuit made.

Touch probes to ends of bit of wire... needle swings, it carries current... if it don't swing, then wire is broken inside some where....

Get the principle?

Use Ohms function to check for 'continuity' between points in a circuit. Ie wires carry eelectricity. Also check for short circuits, or 'isolation', by checking wires that SHOULD NOT make circuit to earth, aren't connected to battery '-'.

Make SURE that there are no volts on the circuits firsts, so disconnect battery.

VOLTS function. Meter will have a number of volt settings. something like 10v, 25v, 50v and 250v. Each setting gives a different needle 'range'... test a 1.5v battery on 250v setting, needle isn't going to move much to see how many volts its making... test 250v house hold supply on 10v, needle will hammer accross the scale and probably blow the meter!

You also possibly have AC or DC settings. Altrnating current, tsted on DC can give wiered radings, if its altrnating slow enough needle will wobble as voltages inceases and decreas, but usually too fast for needle to respond.... also AC normall from -v to +v, so you would only se the + half of th volt wave.

You will want a rang that covers 12v, and possibly AC to test ignition circuit.

CG ignition is a pulse ignition system. Ignition has its own winding in the gnerator, when the rotor passes that winding, crates a pulse of electricity, that goes to thee CDi, CDi energises the coil, and then when the pulsar triggers the CDi, CDi turns 'off' the circuit to the coil, making coil 'react' and make huge voltage that provides the spark.

You want to test the pulses coming out of the genrator to the CDi.
Then you want to test the trigger pulses from the generator housing, to the CDi Then you want to test the pulses on the coil....

Though I suspect you wont need to get that sophisticated. Its mor likely a loose wire, or the mag cover is not fitted properly, so the trigger on the rotor is missing the pulsar pick up, or you have a short circuit turning ignition 'off'.

Wiring diagram, multimeter, PATIENCE and logical, systematic 'tracing' the circuit through, is all it takes.
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'

[UpcomingChris]

[UpcomingChris]

[unitynotsocri...]

It could be the barrel contacts being corroded,but its not that old.has it been stolen /recoverd at anytime?
The light going on might be because the lighting coil is giving a quick burst of power.
You can check the barrel with a multimeter set to ohms .Check the block connector pins by placing the probes on the connector pins and checking them against the manual wiring diagram.i.e. continuity/non continuity.
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nearly a normal tax paying tosser.......with ferrileness suzi100,cg125,cb125scb100n,cb175,cd100,cj250t,kh250,c15,125 bantam,super 6,rickman gs750,xt500,250rs,dt175,lifan125,dolomite1850,metro,Morris220ld,morrisfg,leyland princess,range rover,corsa,vw camper .now struggling with legs. MORE ORDER = MORE CHAOS

[thomp1983]

now you've got spark again and have tried to start if you take the plug out is it black and wet and smells of fuel? if it is then it's possible you have flooded the bike if so leave the plug out and try to start the bike a few times this should clear it, whilst the plug is out try a small squirt of carb cleaner or easy start in the spark plug hole then refit the plug and try starting again

chris

[UpcomingChris]

[UpcomingChris]

I had someone take a quick look at my bike today that knows a bit about them, He said "Everything seems to be working, There is fuel getting in, It's sparking, It's probably something to do with tehh CDI" Or somthing along those lines, He mentioned about Timing, that if it not timed even if everything is working, it won't ignit, How do i go about fixing this?.

I have a few ignition barrel in the post

EDIT: I forgot to say, Where the air filter is there is rubber connector thick tube thing, This has cracks in it that i found, Would that stop it from Starting?

EDIT, Put a little bit of fuel into the carb, incase the fuel was not getting to the carb, which it is, and it Almost seemed like it Backfired, WHat does this mean?