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Killed the clutch

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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 01:06 - 15 Jul 2005    Post subject: Killed the clutch Reply with quote

I stopped down my local for a quick pint, bumped into my mate who owns a k4 gixxer 600, after about an hour i suggest since its reasonably late and quiet, and as its so hot, we should go for a 'play'.

Anyway cue several screaming traffic light gps (his bike is quicker to launch but surprisingly my ten year old shed keeps with him steadily after with a constant distance) and we roll into a supermarket carpark. As his tyre is dead and so is mine (i have a new set sitting in the garage as we speak) cue the rolling burnout practice.

Now i think i either tried to slip the clutch or it was the gp style, but when i went to leave i noticed how vague the bit point was. After a quick ride it was obvious the bite point was hair trigger to bite point. As in you had to let the clutch pretty much to rest before the clutch engaged.

Shocked

Then i floored it in a couple of gears and it felt like it was slipping at the higher revs, and power wheelies werent as high as they should have been. And clutched ones just didnt happen.

Anyway after a few speed:gear:rev checks (note to everyone and self, dont check what speed 11k in top is on a 600 studiously... scared the crap out of myself when i looked up to find a car right next to me... much berating for that) it seemed ok, it just occasionally acts like its wheelspinning. But it seems to be ok by en large.

So my question is. If i have indeed mashed the clutch plates, would i find i had a changed bite point, slipping in low gears at high revs and a slightly lower speed to revs then what it should have been?

Because it seems inconsistent. Which could mean ive forked the rear tyre enough for it to grip inconsistently. I mean after about half a mile clutch ups worked again, and power wheelies held through the redline, so its holding under load in first again. It just seems to go haywire everynow and then. And as it would only affect the middle of the tyre as it was from burnout, i would find it spinning up around corners if i had buggered it, only in straight lines. I have to admit it does feel ominously like hitting the peak torque in the rain and having the back spin up.

Just a bit paranoid, and would like to know before forking out 30+ on clutch and springs.
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Jamie_ducati
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PostPosted: 01:15 - 15 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

my mate did that last week- said clutch had gone, however over last few days it has steadied itself- my theory is that he glazed the clutch plates.
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yambabe
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PostPosted: 01:15 - 15 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh dear. T'other half has just read this over my shoulder ( I wish he wouldn't do that) and he reckons you've worn out the plates and the springs are shagged too - his words!

He reckons you'll need a complete new clutch, as the pressure plate has probably worn as well.

Killing your tyres doing burnouts may affect your handling, but not your bite point. He says if it's touching the levers it's almost certainly fucked.

Sorry. Sad
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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 01:21 - 15 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

babyyam wrote:
Oh dear. T'other half has just read this over my shoulder ( I wish he wouldn't do that) and he reckons you've worn out the plates and the springs are shagged too - his words!

He reckons you'll need a complete new clutch, as the pressure plate has probably worn as well.

Killing your tyres doing burnouts may affect your handling, but not your bite point. He says if it's touching the levers it's almost certainly fucked.

Sorry. Sad


Oh no i know its bite point wouldnt be affected, im just wondering if spontaneous wheelspinning was occurring due to less grip from the rear cos of the burnt rubber. And after a bit of mileage the tyre has worn back to grippy ness.

Clutch still engages fine i think, just further out... Then again my mate did try to 'help' by adjusting it when i parked up to investigate.

Oh and jamie im hoping you are right, cant be forked sorting the clutch as well.

Anyone know how much warning i'll get before it detonates and leaves me stranded?
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From September 2014 to January/February 2015 I will not be using any English, nor reading any. As such, I won't be on here. PM at will, but I won't be checking/posting unless in emergencies. Certainly not for the first couple of months. Please berate me savagely if I break that rule...
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yambabe
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PostPosted: 01:26 - 15 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

He says if it's worn the slipping will just get worse & worse, it will start off bad in top & gradually work its way down the gears.

So you should get plenty notice before it dies completely, but the bike will get progressively harder to ride fast.....
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Kram
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PostPosted: 04:12 - 15 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

sounds like plates and springs. my bike does the same Shocked.
am getting some EBC plates and springs (£50 ish) and a new cable/oil/gasket.

but getting charged 2-3 hours labour Shocked Shocked Shocked Evil or Very Mad

so it's costing me a good £130 for the new clutch
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Claud 14.7 to 1
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PostPosted: 08:41 - 15 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pretty much sounds like your friction plates are worn if it's slipping (try adjusting the clutch first: lever and clutch-casing side). It's also worth having a look before you order parts, because if the steel plates are bunt/blues, those'll have to be changed as well.

They get burnt with exactly that kind of wheelie/wheelspin abuse. Friction plates would more wear over time, so just have a look. Springs can be checked to see if they are within tolerances before you splash out. (clutch "packs" I think don't usually contain these steel plates!)

Open it up, and see what you need, then order the parts. Doing the clutch really isn't a tough job at all. Undoing the clutch nut is the hardest part, and that's because it's on bloody tight. Jam something between the wheel spokes and the swingarm (with bike in gear) and it comes off quite easily with a breaker bar and some force!

Good luck
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BlackSheep
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PostPosted: 09:57 - 15 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you have been doing burnouts with the clutch part in it will burn the clutch out in seconds , (its a common mistake for people to hold the clutch half in whilst doing them) ,

if your going to do burnouts , just dump the clutch and keep your hands off it while the rear tyre is spinning or you will kill the clutch
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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 11:02 - 15 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

BlackSheep wrote:
if you have been doing burnouts with the clutch part in it will burn the clutch out in seconds , (its a common mistake for people to hold the clutch half in whilst doing them) ,

if your going to do burnouts , just dump the clutch and keep your hands off it while the rear tyre is spinning or you will kill the clutch


Yeh i know. Usually i shout at my self brake IN, clutch OUT.

But in all the excitement and such, i think i did slip it once or twice.

I know i was riding the clutch very hard when i did the gp's Embarassed

10 minutes of abuse = Dead Clutch

As for adjustment, its wound in as far as possible at the lever, ill try the other end later on. Still, big pain in the arse.

What about the unstaking and staking the nut? And apparently i NEED a new one. How true is this? I have no worries doing the rest of it myself to a degree, although that means another dreaded oil drain.... Evil or Very Mad
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From September 2014 to January/February 2015 I will not be using any English, nor reading any. As such, I won't be on here. PM at will, but I won't be checking/posting unless in emergencies. Certainly not for the first couple of months. Please berate me savagely if I break that rule...
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loply
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PostPosted: 18:07 - 15 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

2-3 Hours labour to change a clutch?

Takes me precisely 25 minutes to remove my clutch.

And that includes draining the coolant, oil, etc. Do it yourself, its easy as hell.
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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 20:12 - 15 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will check the oil when i dismantle it at any case, but my bet is clutch.

It was back with a fucking vengeance the mile or so i rode it today.

Dear god.

Couldnt actually get the front more then an inch off the floor, and sounds like a typewriter when it slips.

It goes something like this, pull away *with far more revs then are needed due to bastard bite point*, short shift alot, go to overtake, wind it on like a mother, hits 8k, typewriter like noise and its on the limit, but it doesnt hit a limiter Shocked

Its horrible, im caning it in fourth doing 80
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China traffic/travel bike vid - When I make a sweeping statement, please add the word 'statistically' in to the sentence before you bitch...
From September 2014 to January/February 2015 I will not be using any English, nor reading any. As such, I won't be on here. PM at will, but I won't be checking/posting unless in emergencies. Certainly not for the first couple of months. Please berate me savagely if I break that rule...
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Claud 14.7 to 1
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PostPosted: 22:05 - 15 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't ride it then Rolling Eyes

Open it and fix it
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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 14:58 - 19 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Updated;

Last night, got to about 130 ish on the motorway, suddenly whacks to redline, so i roll off the power. And down, and down, and down. Until im rolling down the hardshoulder at 10mph.

Had great fun pushing it the 2 miles home

Goit.

Its like neutral in every gear now, so im assuming the plates are down to the metal completely.

Anyone know a good fast place i can get hold of the plates, springs, centre nut (i apparently /have/ to have a new one every time its un done) and clutch plate cover.
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China traffic/travel bike vid - When I make a sweeping statement, please add the word 'statistically' in to the sentence before you bitch...
From September 2014 to January/February 2015 I will not be using any English, nor reading any. As such, I won't be on here. PM at will, but I won't be checking/posting unless in emergencies. Certainly not for the first couple of months. Please berate me savagely if I break that rule...
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Annabella
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PostPosted: 15:08 - 19 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not sure how much help this will be but have a read before you start trying to do any mechanics Very Happy


https://www.jonpascoe.co.uk/?p=31
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G
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PostPosted: 15:14 - 19 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should be able to get the plates and springs from busters, etc.

If you have to get the center nut off to change the plates and springs, then you may need to either use an air wrench or the 'jam something in the rear wheel' technique.
The later model CBR-fx,fy etc don't require you to do so.
You can usually re-use the center nut, whatever they say.



As you have abused the clutch while it's already on it's way out you may have worn down the metal plates and need to replace these.

These are likely to be more expensive to replace (could be £100 or so for a set).
If they have started to go blue, I would at least get some sandpaper on them to rought them up slightly, as you've probably smoothed them up a bit.

I would be tempted to change the oil at the same time as well, as it's probably going to be full of clutch swarf.


When you saw 'clutch plate cover', what exactly do you mean?
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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 15:35 - 19 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

G wrote:

As you have abused the clutch while it's already on it's way out you may have worn down the metal plates and need to replace these.



I thought there was only one set of plates? I assumed they were a tad like brake pads, in an oil bath, that just wedged together?

Quote:

When you saw 'clutch plate cover', what exactly do you mean?


I meant clutch cover gasket Embarassed

Also i cant see how you can take the clutch apart without taking off the central nut that holds it together? And according to haynes i have to unstake it and take it off just to have a squizz.

And dont worry it will get new oil, although it can keep the filter.
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China traffic/travel bike vid - When I make a sweeping statement, please add the word 'statistically' in to the sentence before you bitch...
From September 2014 to January/February 2015 I will not be using any English, nor reading any. As such, I won't be on here. PM at will, but I won't be checking/posting unless in emergencies. Certainly not for the first couple of months. Please berate me savagely if I break that rule...
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G
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PostPosted: 15:43 - 19 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

bonny_ricardo wrote:


I thought there was only one set of plates? I assumed they were a tad like brake pads, in an oil bath, that just wedged together?

Like in the brakes, the plates press against a metal disc (well, quite a few), just in this case the contact area for both pads and disc is a complete circle.



Quote:

I meant clutch cover gasket Embarassed

Also i cant see how you can take the clutch apart without taking off the central nut that holds it together? And according to haynes i have to unstake it and take it off just to have a squizz.

Gasket isn't essential to replace, though best to (can always go for a cornflakes packet if it's bad Wink ).

In some models the 'inner' basket (that's actually the bit that slides out towards you) isn't held in by the bolt, on the main basket section.

On other bikes they both are, which is what the haynes suggests for yours.
Thinking about it, this is the case for the hornet, which shares your model engine I believe.
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Visitor Q
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PostPosted: 19:52 - 19 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

G wrote:
bonny_ricardo wrote:


I thought there was only one set of plates? I assumed they were a tad like brake pads, in an oil bath, that just wedged together?

Like in the brakes, the plates press against a metal disc (well, quite a few), just in this case the contact area for both pads and disc is a complete circle.





Bum, i think i get ya now. So i need (carrying on the analogy) to replace both my brake pads and brake disc...

Testicles...

I had hoped that would be encompassed by the normal clutch plates sets.
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China traffic/travel bike vid - When I make a sweeping statement, please add the word 'statistically' in to the sentence before you bitch...
From September 2014 to January/February 2015 I will not be using any English, nor reading any. As such, I won't be on here. PM at will, but I won't be checking/posting unless in emergencies. Certainly not for the first couple of months. Please berate me savagely if I break that rule...
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G
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PostPosted: 20:51 - 19 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

bonny_ricardo wrote:

Bum, i think i get ya now. So i need (carrying on the analogy) to replace both my brake pads and brake disc...


Not saying that is the case, but it's possible as you've run it while slipping quite a bit.

There should be specifications for the thickness of the metal plates in your manual, so you can check them.
If they are too thin, you can probably survive for a bit without replacing them; as I mentioned sanding them should give a bit of extra grip.

Just something to consider.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 02:06 - 20 Jul 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have known people change heir clutch plates and still not right - if your bike has a hydraulic clutch (e.g. bandit) - the caliper can get sticky to the point it holds your clutch half in.
This might explain the erraticness you noted initially.
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