CBR400 HELP..MAJOR F**K up i have done

[ash t]

Help me please!

I have overtightned a bolt which holds the gasket on the downpipes, and one of the bolts was already missing, so now i have a downpipe which isnt bolted on. How do i remove the bits which the nuts go onto? I have a horrible feeling that they are not designed to be removed from the bike (ie, they wont be coming out)

cheers

ash
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[instigator]

Uh oh....

If you're trying to remove the nut, then heat the bugger up and try hit it with a hammer. Or soak it in some penetrative oil and try a day later.

I tried removing mine today but gave up when I thought I might break more of the things off.....

[ash t]

There is just a stud sticking out. I was wondering if these will come out or not
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[White Noise]

they should come out, try putting two nuts on the thread then try and take the stud out by turning the inner nut anti-clockwise
WN
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Buy my wife: 96' Yam XJ600s (Diversion)
Wing Commander White Noise - SE Clique
Riding Tip #86: See God, then back off a bit: Problem is i haven't seen god yet, just a close up of tarmac on revett straight

[ash t]

Thanks WN and VFR400UK (for the PM). But im sure that there isnt enough room on the bit of the stud that is sticking out, to fit the nuts on it.
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[White Noise]

can you post a pic of the stud?
WN
____________________
Buy my wife: 96' Yam XJ600s (Diversion)
Wing Commander White Noise - SE Clique
Riding Tip #86: See God, then back off a bit: Problem is i haven't seen god yet, just a close up of tarmac on revett straight

[ash t]

My camera stopped working after donington GP. It didnt take to well to the water.

All I can say is that it is sticking out about 10ml.
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[White Noise]

[ash t]

Thanks anyway mate.

I just want peace of mind now. I just need telling for definate that the studs do come out. I can get a set of mole grips onto it, it just didnt seem to be moving earlier when I tried to undo it.

Im going to soak it with WD40 tonight, and have another go in the morning.
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[KevTM]

grind two opposite sides flat so that a small spanner fits on it and whack it with a hammer?

stud removers?

there's always a way!

[VFR400UK]

keep the mole grips the hell away from it. they will only lead to pain and suffering.

would you get more thread to work with if you removed the exhaust down pipes?

[stinkwheel]

You MIGHT be able to get a stud extractor on it, don't know if it will get a grip on 10mm though.

You could cut a slot in the end and try with a screwdriver

You could try hacksawing a nut in half to give you two thinner nuts and undo it that way.

If you have a mate who has a welder, you could screw a nut onto the stud and get them to weld it in place. This gets a hell of a lot of heat into the thread too.

Try mole grips (shit or bust).

I did all of the above last time I had a sheared stud, then landed up drilling the bugger out and re-tapping the hole. Five bloody hours I spent!

Good luck
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[ash t]

Some great ideas there!

Must try them tomorrow!
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[Ric]

[stinkwheel]

[jayluvmito]

[Ichy]

If you have the time soak it in WD40 or similar. when you decide to use mole grips heat up the block first, and make sure the stud is as cold as possible. There is actually a 'spanner' that grips tighter the more you push but I can't remember what its called Looks a bit like a plumbers wrench. You can get stud extractors but they tend to be a bit pointless in smaller sizes. Finally when you try all that and it doesn't work just remember to drill the center of the stud with a nice small drill bit, it will help guide the full size one. Without being negative you still have one more problem, recreating the thread. Its worth just trying to tap it if not then your going to need a helicoil.

[ash t]

Im going to go the stud extractor route i think.

Id like to keep away from drills!
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[paulyzf600]

Snap!.........No pun intended cos I have just done the same on my Thundercat although it has snapped the stud flush with the head so I have no choice but to drill it out and re-thread.

It's so annoying and I was expecting it to happen as it always does with exhaust manifolds (always hate it on my car as well).

Going to go see if my local garage will do the deeds other wise I need to get a very steady hand and a tap and die kit tomorrow.

Good luck with yours!
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Yamaha YZF600 Thundercat

[ash t]

Im going to go in search of a stud extractor.

Pauly, cant you drill a little line into the bolt and use a screwdriver??

Ash
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[stinkwheel]

You get two main sorts of stud pullers. There is a cam type and a roller "socket" type. I just checked, my socket ones won't get a proper hold with only 10mm of thread so a cam type might be the way to go. (see picture)

https://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/VWPweb2000/tools-2/photo/101172a.jpg
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[paulyzf600]

[Ichy]

might be worth getting a new stud first, measure the depth of thread then set the drill to the same depth, just use some tape or set the distance from the chuck to the drill tip. DON'T FORGET THE PILOT HOLE, other wise it can end up all over the place . There is a type of stud extractor that works like a reverse tap, its tapered so it locks into position, but like I said they tend to be a bit pointless in smaller sizes if the thread is really locked in, you might be lucky.

[Chr!S]

Hacksaw slit on end so you can get a screw driver into it?

[ash t]

Doesn't anybody make 4mm extractors, or has anybody got one which they are willing to lend me, please, im very desperate, as the bike shop cant fit me in for 2 weeks
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