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Yam RXS100 problem

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Raccooncity
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 20 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: 17:15 - 21 Aug 2005    Post subject: Yam RXS100 problem Reply with quote

New spark plugs die all the time after a week use, they all covered with oil and look black.

What happen was the bike runs fine and at a point, the engine just cut off and wouldnt start up until I put a new plug in.

I took it to CMC before and asked them to reset the carb and the oil mixture for me. But at the same day I got the bike back, it cuts off again when I started it after a 10 miles riding. So I altered the Idle speed and it worked fine for a few days, then the plug (was a new plug again) was gone again.....

I really dont know what the problem is, I didnt run it with choke on all the time, only when I start the bike up till the rev drop to about 2k, then I let it run stable for a good few minutes before riding off.

Any suggestions please??


Also, I just put a new rear tyre and a new chain& sprocket to the bike as the old tyre was worn. After putting everything back on, I just found that I couldnt put the rear brake lever back on(which connects directly to the drum). I am not sure if I lost a bolt or what but I think it shouldnt be the case as I was really careful when I strip it down.

So I just wonder if anyone can take a few photos of that part if you have this bike so I can have a look at it as reference. It is just not in the manual.....

cheers~~
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 19:26 - 21 Aug 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, it is either coking up or oiling up. If the bike has a properly adjusted oil pump and you are using 2-stroke suitable for injectors, oiling up shouldn't be an issue.

So, causes of coking up.

Blocked air filter easily checked.
Choke malfunction, sticking on?
Throttle needle in wrong position, have you fiddled with it?
Coked up exhaust system, when did you last clean it?
Wrong spark plug, too cold a grade.
Ignition timing retarded (if points fitted) or way too far advanced.
Plug gap wrong.
Points gap wrong.
Low compression (worn out engine). What's the mileage on it?

EDIT: Best bet is to get a workshop manual and do everything listed under a major service.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Raccooncity
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 20 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: 20:58 - 21 Aug 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks mate, its quite detail. Very appreciate.

But, ermm... theres quite a few questions :

I cleaned the air filter before and its still not working, so i think its not about the air filter.

About the choke, I m not very sure, but it looks like it works fine as when I pulled it out as I starting the bike in cold. The revv changes as the position of choke changes. Does that mean the choke is doing its job or it still might not be working good?

I have no idea about the throttle needle and I had never touch it before so it shouldnt be that case.

For the exhaust, I took the baffle out and cleaned it throughly. But theres a tiny hole in the upper end of the pipe where theres chemical metal sealed it up. (I was trying to clean up those carbon deposit but ended up re-broken the pipe which was sealed by the previous owner, then I seal it with firegum and it seems ok)

I used the spark plug that the manual suggested. And theres only 5 left out of 20 I bought......... Shall I try a grade hotter plug?? If yes, how do I know which one is a grade hotter??

For ignition timing, I do not know how to adjust it and never touch it before neither.

About a month ago, friend of my strip the whole bike down and he checked the engine, piston....etc and he said its fine. The previous owner rebuildt the engine not long ago before he sold me the bike, and I havent done a lot miles on it. So I assume the engine shouldnt be knackered yet.


Sorry for that loads of question, but I just got fed up of getting stuck in town pushing the bike back or waiting hours for AA picking me up and keep blowing money on buying spark plugs......

regards,
Chee
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 21:21 - 21 Aug 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

I cleaned the air filter before and its still not working, so i think its not about the air filter.

About the choke, I m not very sure, but it looks like it works fine as when I pulled it out as I starting the bike in cold. The revv changes as the position of choke changes. Does that mean the choke is doing its job or it still might not be working good?

I have no idea about the throttle needle and I had never touch it before so it shouldnt be that case.

For the exhaust, I took the baffle out and cleaned it throughly. But theres a tiny hole in the upper end of the pipe where theres chemical metal sealed it up. (I was trying to clean up those carbon deposit but ended up re-broken the pipe which was sealed by the previous owner, then I seal it with firegum and it seems ok)


Sounds like that isn't your problem then.

Quote:
I used the spark plug that the manual suggested. And theres only 5 left out of 20 I bought......... Shall I try a grade hotter plug?? If yes, how do I know which one is a grade hotter??


Might be worth trying a hotter plug. Your bike takes an NGK BR8HS plug as standard. One grade hotter is BR7HS.

Or try a Nippon Denso plug. It is not unheard of to get an entire box of duff plugs. NGK quality control is not what it used to be. I think your bike takes an IWF24 in Nippon denso. A grade hotter would be IWF22.

The gap should be around 0.024"

Quote:
For ignition timing, I do not know how to adjust it and never touch it before neither.


I am not sure if your bike is points ignition, if it is, it would be well worth checking the ignition timing and points gap are correct, they can 'go off'. I have to check the ignition timing every 500 miles or so on my dads KH350 2-stroke.

Quote:
About a month ago, friend of my strip the whole bike down and he checked the engine, piston....etc and he said its fine. The previous owner rebuildt the engine not long ago before he sold me the bike, and I havent done a lot miles on it. So I assume the engine shouldnt be knackered yet.


Agreed, but if he had the cylinder head off, you might need to re-tighten the cylinder head bolts with a torque wrench (two minute job). The base gasket compresses after a while and the engine can start blowing past it which would seriously lower the compression.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Raccooncity
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 20 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: 23:09 - 21 Aug 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, What is a torque wrench? Can I just use a normal wrench instead??

I dont understand, why lowered compression would cause the engine to cut off and oil up and kill the plug?
Smile
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 23:32 - 21 Aug 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Raccooncity wrote:
Thanks, What is a torque wrench? Can I just use a normal wrench instead??

I dont understand, why lowered compression would cause the engine to cut off and oil up and kill the plug?
Smile


NO! you MUST use a torque wrench. It is a special sort of wrench that 'clicks' when you apply a measured force to it. This means you get each nut tightened down by exactly the same amount. Failure to do so can bend the cylinder head. If your engine is down on compression, the fuel/air vapour in it will not explode in the designed manner. 2-strokes work by carefully calculated pressure differences inside the engine, if these are being mucked up, it will run inefficiantly.

This is a torque wrench, you set the force on it by turning the end of the handle and setting the required tension against a scale. They can be expensive but you might just be able to borrow one. You need to know what setting to use it at, and also tension the bolts crosswise (corner to corner) to avoid warping the head.
https://www.comparestoreprices.co.uk/images/no/norbar-11087-torque-wrench-3-8sd-4-20nm.jpg

Besides, it is good practice to re-torque the cylinder head nuts a short while after taking the engine apart anyway.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Raccooncity
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 20 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: 10:39 - 22 Aug 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh, I think I might just ask if my manager has one as hes a biker as well.

Do you know how could I adjust the ignition timing?
Cheers
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 11:29 - 22 Aug 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know to be honest. It might even have an electronic ignition rather than points which would mean the timing is fixed.

You would really need a manual as every bike is slightly different. Ideally you would set it up using a strobe light with the engine running but I find static timing is ok with small 2-strokes like that.

I am sure some people on here own an RXS100, come on guys, do they have points or what?
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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DM
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 16 Oct 2004
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PostPosted: 19:38 - 22 Aug 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine doesn't have have a points system, but then it isn't the original ignition Razz, but I'm pretty sure that the newer models (1993 and over?) don't have a points system.

What you might wanna do is find out if your friend changed any of the jetting at all.

Switching to a hotter plug would probably fix the problem, but just make sure to check the plug after running for awhile and make sure it isn't running TOO hot. I run a BR7HS myself...I always figured that that WAS stock Smile. But a slight unnoticed air leak in the manifold caused some leaning and, after running the bike quite hard a few times, performance plumetted when a hole started to melt into the top of the piston Neutral.
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Raccooncity
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 20 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: 23:22 - 23 Aug 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys, mine is 1994 I think but I have adsolutely no idea what so ever about the last 2 replys. What does a point system? What is jetting setting?
Also I have another problem now, I changed a new rear tyre, new sprocket and gonna get the chain back, but the problem is:

ermm...... I cant put the rear brake back on (the lever bit connecting the footpeg to the drum brake itself) Looks like theres a bolt missing or something, but I was pretty sure I kept everything when I took the wheel off.......
I just wonder if anyone can post a few photos of the rear wheel(the brake bit) so I can based on it and put stuffs back on, cheers

P.S. I checked the whole manual but theres jsut no photo about this bit..... unlucky me
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 01:43 - 24 Aug 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, usual rear brake setup for most drum braked bikes (yours may be different but I doubt it)

There is a long rod coming from the foot pedal that moves the brake with a nut that screws on the end of it. The brake itself has a lever made of two bits of flat steel which seperate at the end and have a hole through them. There is a small, cylindrical piece of metal that fits in the holes in the lever with a hole through the middle you push the rod through. I bet you have lost this.

I did a rough diagram. I reckon you have lost the red bit.

Hope that makes sense.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Raccooncity
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 20 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: 10:53 - 25 Aug 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bingo man!!!

Thats what I lost...... Embarassed

Any idea where I could get a replacement??

Cheers
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 11:18 - 25 Aug 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

I personally would probably make one by drilling a hole in a piece of metal bar. Check at your local bike breakers (try the yellow pages), they are likley to be a pretty universal size and I would imagine they would just give you one.

Failing that, you'll need to order one from a dealer, I can't imagine them being expensive.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Andy99
Spanner Monkey



Joined: 16 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: 16:36 - 25 Aug 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

From what you're saying about the plugs i think the first thing you should check is you oil pump adjustment.
I had a similar problem with an RD and thats what it was,simple to fix and never had the problem again.

Good luck
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Raccooncity
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 20 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: 19:17 - 25 Aug 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the advices guys

Andy99, what oil u mean? Is that the 2t oil??

Cheers
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Andy99
Spanner Monkey



Joined: 16 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: 15:38 - 26 Aug 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep,i certainly do. Smile
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Nothing gets the point across quite like a raised middle digit.

Just call me General Crazypaws.
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