Running in.

[mistergixer]

I'm shortly to buy a brand spanking new K5 Gixer 750 (obviously in blue/white - they go quicker).
Heard conflicting advice on the subject of running engines in, do i adhere to the manufacturers advice of low revs etc etc or should i ride it normally from new? I've heard that an engine used normally from new will produce more power than a 'properly' run in engine.
Any ideas?
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Space Monkey #7
Don Eladio is dead. His capos are dead. You have no one left to fight for. Fill your pockets and leave in peace. Or fight me and die!
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[stinkwheel]

I doubt the manufacturer would recommend riding at low revs these days, just as likley to damage your engine. I would be riding it cautiously. By that I mean not having the engine labouring for the first 500 miles or so. Doesn't mean you can't go fast, just not thrashing it.

What you are thinking of is the practice of riding a new engine hard from brand new. As I recall you warm it up thoroughly then go out for a good blast on it for a relatively short distance (no more than 100 miles), working the engine right through the rev range. That or give it a dyno run. You then immediately change the oil and filter and it is considered run-in.

It is a proven point that engines treated like this generate more power after a few thousand miles than a conventionally run in one. This is because the piston rings seal better due to having been worked hard against the honing on the new barrel.

I still have my doubts as to how this would affect long-term reliability in an engine with shell bearings and hardened valve guides.

The jury is still out. It occurred to me that if you were serious about this kind of thing, you could run it in conventionally then fit new rings and give the barrels a hone before taking it for the thrash/oil change protocol. Seems a lot of work, but frankly, if you are going to need/use the extra horsepower, stripping the top-end of an engine is not going to be a big issue for you (we are not talking large numbers of ponies).

I am sure there will be many, differing oppinions. If it were my bike, I would go for the 'not thrashing the nuts off it for the first 500 miles' regime.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[mistergixer]

Personally the thrash it from new regime seems lacking in mechanical sympathy to me.
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Space Monkey #7
Don Eladio is dead. His capos are dead. You have no one left to fight for. Fill your pockets and leave in peace. Or fight me and die!
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[McGee]

Dont go straight balls out on the throttle keep it steady for first 200 miles i say then its up to you. also try to change the oil more often than what the manufacturer does it helps, well i think it does.
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Its pronounced Jixxer!

[sickpup]

When I rebuild an engine I never take it gently.

First never run in an engine using semi or synth oil, the rings tend not to seal. Use good quality mineral oil.

If your main and big end shells don't have the correct clearances your gonna fúck your crank whatever speed you do. If your gearbox bearings are to tight theres not gonna be any room for oil between the balls and the bearing surfaces so they will seize regardless of speed.

You have a warranty.

No one has given me a reasonable arguement to run in slowly yet.

your bike, your money. yoyur choice

[Robby]

If I was buying brand new, I'd get someone else to run it in for me on a dyno.

[0ddball]

This is how i run my car engines in, make of it what you will.

As soon as you get it on the road get it up to normal temp (water and oil) then give it full throttle from low revs and take it to around 70% of you max revs then back off the throttle completely and let it coast down the revs. This forces gas behind the rings and pushes them hard into the bores on acceleration then the vacuum on over run draws oil into the bores. Repeat this about 10 times then do an oil change. Use some really cheap crap mineral oil.

Then ride it as normal for a few hundred miles but no more than 50% throttle and 50% revs. Never labour the engine and don't sit at one speed for too long.

After about 200 miles do another oil change, again with cheap crap mineral oil.

Now start to work the engine more. Not thrashing it but use around 3/4 throttle and 75% of the revs with the occasional fast run through the gears. Do this for about 300 miles. then change the oil again. This time for a decent synthetic.

The engine should now be sealing well and you can start to ride it as normal.
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