Need a hand spraying??

[nora2004]

So I had a bit of a spill the other day and my panels needed painting up, what would you recommend?
Apply the base and go over it with 1200 wet and dry then lacquer it, then do a color sand and polish....or

Apply the base dont wet and dry it and put the lacquer straight on, then color sand it and polish?

[colin1]

bump

id like to know how to spray panels properly too
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colin1 is officially faster than god

[colin1]

just found this

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=63300
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colin1 is officially faster than god

[Teaman]

RULE NUMBER ONE. dont mix 2 pack and celulose paint, they react
RULE NUMBER TWO. make sure everything is nice and warm and free from dust (and flys)
go over your panel with sand paper to get all the shine and transfers off (get it as smooth as poss) dont worry about deep scratches.
After this fill any big gouges with normal body filler, and smooth down, if you dond have any gouges go to next bit.
Spay with about 3 layres of primer,, dont let the paint dry between coats as it wont stick aswell, (put spray can in a bucket of very hot water first,, just works better, finer mist)
once you have let the primer dry smooth over with 1200 wet and dry, (fine is best as you just want to get a really smooth finnish)
If there are any hairline scratches left fill them with fine surface filler, then when dry rub down again ( DO NOT WET IT it will soak up the water and go shit again)
now its prepped and ready for spraying. i find giving it a wipe down with a dry clean hand is best, you pick up dust pluss feel for scratches.
spray light coats and work your way down, doesnt matter how long it takes, the longer the better just practice,, about 6 inches away and a light pulsle from left to right then right to left, dont just keep your finger on the button and wiggle the can around.
also always start your spray off the item your spraying, this way you will avoid big blobs and build up on the edges. (again dont let the paint fully dry between coats,
once you have sprayed the base coats (as many coats as you want i suppose but about 4 is ample (your judgment is the only way, cant have too many) you can do the laquering, treat this like your life depended on it cos if you make a mistake its back to rubbing down,
when spraying laquer remember it tends to be very runny. try and take your time, you need to work out when the moment of almost dry is uppon you before putting another coat on, also do thin layers of laquer each time you spray use a fine mist and build up the coats, , (I put about 6 or 7 layers on polished items so the same or a few more wont hurt)
Stand back and admire your work after 24 hours ish, and think,, that looks nice but still a bit bobbly, well all is not lost,, go get some rubbing compound or similar (not t cut or solvo) and rub it in like mad using soapy water this will eventually take all the bobbles out, (or hire a propper buffing tool, looks like an angle grinder with variable speed and has a big foam head on it)
once yuor arm is killing you you should be able to wash off the item and polish it. now buff up again and put something like auto glym on it,,, supah
____________________
There is no point in ranting about someone stupid because there is nothing u can do about it. There is no cure for stupid.
Someone stupid does not realise they r stupid.stupidity is indistinguishable from malice U just have to accept that some people are thick as p1gsh1t and work around them.

[colin1]

if rubbing compound is not t cut or solvo ? waht is it ?

is t cut a type of rubbing compound which isnt as good or is t cut not rubbing compound ?
____________________
colin1 is officially faster than god

[Teaman]

oh yeah,,
If your going to put transfers on the bike before applying the laquer make sure it wont react first,,
Buy an extra transfer and stick a bit of it on your test piece, (assuming you were smart enough to do a test piece) and spray,, see what heppens,

Heres my old bike, i resprayed myself, filling in where the big plastic extra bits were around the indicators and rear plastics where the seat and helmet locks were. also a dented tank, refilled, shaped and resprayed,, Ive made money from doing resprays so listen to what I say,, it works well, (ok so having a compressor and propper spraying tools work but thats as far as it went, never had a booth)
____________________
There is no point in ranting about someone stupid because there is nothing u can do about it. There is no cure for stupid.
Someone stupid does not realise they r stupid.stupidity is indistinguishable from malice U just have to accept that some people are thick as p1gsh1t and work around them.

[Teaman]

Different rubbing compounds for sifferent things, also grades like sand paper aswell, solvo is quite abrasive, also contains stuff like what you find in brasso, to eat away at the oxidisation of aluminium and such like.
T cut is gloryfied brasso,, full of amonia, alcoline based it gain eats away at stuff, basicly its good for sorting out dull paintwork as it removes the top layer in effect.
G3 is the rubbing compound you want, its specificly made for this job
https://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Farecla-G3-Regular-Grade-Rubbing-Compound-Paste-tube_W0QQitemZ8007290573QQcategoryZ72201QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

there dont say i never do owt for ya
____________________
There is no point in ranting about someone stupid because there is nothing u can do about it. There is no cure for stupid.
Someone stupid does not realise they r stupid.stupidity is indistinguishable from malice U just have to accept that some people are thick as p1gsh1t and work around them.