how the hell do i do this?!?!

[hazza]

i have an rxs 100 and i dont know how to change the front fork seals. ive found out i will probably fail the mot on it so they need doing....and the only way i will learn anything is if i do it myself so i dont want to go to a garage
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3 Honda NC50's(Sold)-->'72 Puch Maxi S (Sold, want it back!)--> '90 Yamaha RXS 100 (Stolen)--> '87 Honda Cub 90(Sold) --> '95 Kawasaki Eliminator (Sold) --> '98 Bandit 600 (Sold) -->'07 SV650S (Current)

[White Noise]

first stop see what it says in the haynes manual
WN
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Buy my wife: 96' Yam XJ600s (Diversion)
Wing Commander White Noise - SE Clique
Riding Tip #86: See God, then back off a bit: Problem is i haven't seen god yet, just a close up of tarmac on revett straight

[Slinn84]

depending on what your forks are like its pretty simple but very fiddly

i'll assume you have standard telescopic forks
1. get bike off ground and remove front wheel
2. Unbolt clamp botls on upper and lower yoke of handle bars
3. Remove anything clipped to top of forks (brake hoses etc)
4. Loosen the top bolt of the fork
5. Pull forks carefully out of housing
6. Work on each fork seperatly
7. Slacken the dmaper rod bolt at the bottom of the slider
8. Fully unscrew the top botl then hold the lock nut and remove the top bolt assembly
9. Remove damper adjuster rod
10. remove spring seat washer and pull out the spring (make sure you remember which way up it goes)
11. take out the rod bolt and remove the damer rod assembly
12. prise out the dust seal then pull the fork tube hard against the slider until the oil seal and bush are dislodged
13. Remove and clean and check all parts

if this seems right so far then let me know and i'll post the re-assembly up

take care[/list]

[Bezzer]

It makes sense apart from a problem you might get at stage 7, a lot of the time you get unlucky and can't unscrew the bolt as it just twists inside.. You've got to then take the top nut and springs out, then know what kind of rod inner you've got so you can jam it/lock with some kind of homemade tool while you unscrew the bolt.
Some are a round hole so you can get away with jamming a sharpened broomstick in it or paying £22 for the proper tool , some are hexagon so the right size bolt head on the end of a piece of bar works etc etc, you really need the details from the manual if nobody can say for sure.
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I used to be indecisive but now I'm not quite so sure.

[Slinn84]

well spotted, i had no problem getting the bolt out, but when i was putting it back together i couldn't tighten it up enuf to stop the fluid leaking, like u said it just keeps spinning the damper rod, i used an old pipe squeezed in a vice and jammed it in to hold it in place whilst i tighteed it up

also another point i dint mention, always get a friend to compress the fork as much as possible when slackening the damper rod bolth as this takes the pressure off and stops you breaking the thread of the bolt

also always replace the little copper washer that goes on the bolt. they compress into the space when tightened up so u can't re-use them