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Circlip removal problems

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mchaggis
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PostPosted: 02:23 - 30 Nov 2005    Post subject: Circlip removal problems Reply with quote

https://www.springmasters.com/sp/images/internal-circlips-increased-abutment.jpg

The circlips in the forks (VT500) are of the above pattern. My problem is that no matter how hard I try, I can't get the buggers out. I can compress and contract the circlip with my circlip pliers, but as soon as I try anything remotely like lifting it out, it pings off the end of the plier prongs. Brick Wall

Is there any particular technique for removing them, or is it just a case of contracting the clip and lifting it out like common sense dictates, perseverance being the key part? It's driving me a little barmy. Neutral

I suppose I could see whether the circlip is still stuck in the groove when it is contracted, but that isn't exactly easy. Confused
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 02:56 - 30 Nov 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Small screwdriver down one edge while compressing.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 13:41 - 30 Nov 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

I presume these are round the top of the fork holding the 'bung' in?

If so, they will be under pressure from the fork springs. You need to relieve this pressure first, two ways I know of:

1: Get a helper with a socket T-bar and short extension with a big socket on it to press down on top of the bung while you remove the circlip.
2: Get a 2/3 leg puller, hook the legs under the top yoke then use the puller to compress the spring down (there is usually a recess in the top of the bung to help keep the puller bolt central).

If you can get one edge of the circlip sufficiently far away from the groove, you can usually insert a flat bladed screwdriver in the gap and lever one edge of the circlip out of the groove. You can then work the screwdriver round at an angle, lifting thecirclip up and out of the groove until it is sitting in the tube but disengaged from the grove itself. Then flick it out and watch it disappear down the nearest drain.

I have found that for big circlips like that, you need a pair of fixed 'close' circlip pliers, the ones that have interchangeable heads for both pening and closing don't seem to be up to the job. You can sometimes get them with a big set of needlenose pliers too.

So ones like this:https://www.condorgroup.ch/images/tools/pliers/72dpi/plier_DSCF0020.jpg?acd17c87

Rather than ones like this:https://www.sealey.co.uk/Images/Products/Thumbnails/S0457.jpg
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mchaggis
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PostPosted: 21:11 - 01 Dec 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys, the screwdriver did the trick. Thumbs Up

I've only got an interchangeable head set, but I can just about cope with it. The circlip in question is holding the fork seal in. The problem now is that I need to find a smaller piece of pipe to drive the new one in than the one I had already. Doh!

Thankfully, removing the fork spring is simply a case of undoing the fork cap after releasing the air pressure. Refitting it was fun though, I don't think it chipped any paint when the cap slipped out of my grasp and sent the spacer into flight. Embarassed

Then there's the fact that the fork stanchion is pitted beyond saving really anyway; I'm just a bit too tight fisted to go out and buy a new pair of stanchions. I'll see how it goes. Smile
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 22:26 - 01 Dec 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

mchaggis wrote:

Then there's the fact that the fork stanchion is pitted beyond saving really anyway; I'm just a bit too tight fisted to go out and buy a new pair of stanchions. I'll see how it goes. Smile


De-rust, de-grease. Apply slow setting Araldite to pits. Allow to set fully. Polish level with fine wet and dry paper. Fixed.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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