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mchaggis |
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mchaggis World Chat Champion
Joined: 10 May 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 02:23 - 30 Nov 2005 Post subject: Circlip removal problems |
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https://www.springmasters.com/sp/images/internal-circlips-increased-abutment.jpg
The circlips in the forks (VT500) are of the above pattern. My problem is that no matter how hard I try, I can't get the buggers out. I can compress and contract the circlip with my circlip pliers, but as soon as I try anything remotely like lifting it out, it pings off the end of the plier prongs.
Is there any particular technique for removing them, or is it just a case of contracting the clip and lifting it out like common sense dictates, perseverance being the key part? It's driving me a little barmy.
I suppose I could see whether the circlip is still stuck in the groove when it is contracted, but that isn't exactly easy. ____________________ I must not be a troll...
Mmmm, Guinness
Discovering the delights of Hammerite and a 3/4" brush. |
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sickpup |
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sickpup Old Timer
Joined: 21 Apr 2004 Karma :
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 13:41 - 30 Nov 2005 Post subject: |
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I presume these are round the top of the fork holding the 'bung' in?
If so, they will be under pressure from the fork springs. You need to relieve this pressure first, two ways I know of:
1: Get a helper with a socket T-bar and short extension with a big socket on it to press down on top of the bung while you remove the circlip.
2: Get a 2/3 leg puller, hook the legs under the top yoke then use the puller to compress the spring down (there is usually a recess in the top of the bung to help keep the puller bolt central).
If you can get one edge of the circlip sufficiently far away from the groove, you can usually insert a flat bladed screwdriver in the gap and lever one edge of the circlip out of the groove. You can then work the screwdriver round at an angle, lifting thecirclip up and out of the groove until it is sitting in the tube but disengaged from the grove itself. Then flick it out and watch it disappear down the nearest drain.
I have found that for big circlips like that, you need a pair of fixed 'close' circlip pliers, the ones that have interchangeable heads for both pening and closing don't seem to be up to the job. You can sometimes get them with a big set of needlenose pliers too.
So ones like this:https://www.condorgroup.ch/images/tools/pliers/72dpi/plier_DSCF0020.jpg?acd17c87
Rather than ones like this:https://www.sealey.co.uk/Images/Products/Thumbnails/S0457.jpg ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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mchaggis |
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mchaggis World Chat Champion
Joined: 10 May 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 21:11 - 01 Dec 2005 Post subject: |
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Thanks guys, the screwdriver did the trick.
I've only got an interchangeable head set, but I can just about cope with it. The circlip in question is holding the fork seal in. The problem now is that I need to find a smaller piece of pipe to drive the new one in than the one I had already.
Thankfully, removing the fork spring is simply a case of undoing the fork cap after releasing the air pressure. Refitting it was fun though, I don't think it chipped any paint when the cap slipped out of my grasp and sent the spacer into flight.
Then there's the fact that the fork stanchion is pitted beyond saving really anyway; I'm just a bit too tight fisted to go out and buy a new pair of stanchions. I'll see how it goes. ____________________ I must not be a troll...
Mmmm, Guinness
Discovering the delights of Hammerite and a 3/4" brush. |
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 18 years, 152 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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