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Battery Charger

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Kris
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PostPosted: 13:57 - 05 Dec 2005    Post subject: Battery Charger Reply with quote

Hey all.

I finally have the chance to receive a Christmas present that would be useful and one that I actually need, rather than the usual multipack of 'briefs' or the Lynx deodourant 'gift set'.

I need a battery charger for the Bandit, seeing as it sits outside and the cold kills batteries. Can anyone recommend me a charger to get? I've heard good things about the Optimate series, although £40 is a bit steep tbh.

Any ideas?
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dainesefreak
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PostPosted: 14:10 - 05 Dec 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you want a battery charger or an optimizer?

As far as chargers go I've got a Halfords rapid charger, always done the job and is cheap as chips. The Optimate is supposed to be very good but I wasn't willing to pay the money for one and I never leave my bike standing for that long. There are similar products out there to the Optimate too. Oxford do one called Oximiser, cheaper than the Optimate Here
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nrml76
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PostPosted: 17:03 - 05 Dec 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd recommend the optimate Thumbs Up . You can knock a few quid off if you buy it off ebay. Pays for itself in a few years, and you can go to sleep safe in the knowledge that it wont fry up your battery. I have wrapped mine in cling film, and leave it underneath the bike cover on a brick in all sorts of weather. No problems at all. The permanently attached charging cable makes life easy also Smile
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Gazdaman
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PostPosted: 18:57 - 05 Dec 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

An optimate is well worth the money. Thumbs Up

Not only does it charge it reconditions. When I first hooked it up to my (fully charged) TZR battery it showed it's Confused face, but left it on for a few days and it had a Smile face.

It discharges and recharges and does all sorts of magical stuff.

Gaz
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NSR-Rulez
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PostPosted: 19:04 - 05 Dec 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have a datatool one got it when my alarm was fitted

its a battery conditioner charges, discharges and maintains charge cost £40-£50 normally, works really well recahrged the NSR's battery from flat as a pancake to fully charged in 12 hours, top job and i highly recommend it.


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nrml76
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PostPosted: 19:09 - 05 Dec 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

The datatool charger and optimate are identical products.
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The Old Geeza
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PostPosted: 19:18 - 05 Dec 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

I could tell you how to do all this 'fancy' stuff that's offered on these expensive 'conditioners' quite easily and cheaply.

But nobody want's to know about an old man's ideas Shocked



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mchaggis
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PostPosted: 22:03 - 05 Dec 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Old Geeza wrote:
I could tell you how to do all this 'fancy' stuff that's offered on these expensive 'conditioners' quite easily and cheaply.


Got any tips for shampoo? Razz Wink
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Mongrel
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PostPosted: 22:18 - 05 Dec 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Optimate/datatool...no argument, no contest.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 22:29 - 05 Dec 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Old Geeza wrote:
I could tell you how to do all this 'fancy' stuff that's offered on these expensive 'conditioners' quite easily and cheaply.

But nobody want's to know about an old man's ideas Shocked




Oh yes we do.
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The Old Geeza
Back in my day...



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PostPosted: 22:37 - 05 Dec 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
Oh yes we do.


OK then...

Anyone ever heard of deep-discharge, reverse-polarity-revaltalisation or float charge ?

Well, that's all that is needed.

And you can do this with a headlamp and any bog-standard battery charger Thumbs Up

Nuff said Wink



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colin1
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PostPosted: 03:20 - 06 Dec 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

'back in my day we didnt have optimates
you can do the same thing with a headlamp and any bog-standard battery charger'

interesting but optimate is less hassle for those who dont know what they are doing
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ZZR Girl
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PostPosted: 08:33 - 06 Dec 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

I recently asked the same question on the ZZR International forum. As my bike is going to be off the road over winter and it's got a digital clock which is on permanently, I need to keep the battery topped up. I saw a Battery Tender advertised in BIKE magazine which supplies a trickle charge and I thought this looked quite good. However, most of the replies I got recommended the Optimate III and I've just bought one on eBay for cheaper than retail.
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the grim reaper
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PostPosted: 09:18 - 06 Dec 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to buck the trend, I would not recommend an Optimate charger. The problem with the Optimate is that it only trickle charges and maintains the battery, after a while, the battery starts to rely on the Optimate, especially if you are not using the bike. Once this happens, the battery will die very rapidly when not being charged by the optimate (i.e if you go to stay with relatives).

There is no substitute for riding the bike, batteries like to be drawn on heavily (starter motor) and then charged fast (alternator), a constant slow trickle charge will kill the battery, eventually.

I'd recommend taking the battery out of the bike and using a high wattage light to drain it and then fast charging it with a standard battery charger (I have a Halfords on that is very good). Do this occasionally and your battery will last for far longer than if you use an Optimate.

Alarms are the curse of batteries as they draw a small amount of current over time and slowly drain the battery. Batteries hate this slow discharge, a slow recharge from an Optimate only makes things worse.

Cheers

Grim
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 14:11 - 06 Dec 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Old Geeza wrote:

OK then...

Anyone ever heard of deep-discharge, reverse-polarity-revaltalisation or float charge ?

Well, that's all that is needed.

And you can do this with a headlamp and any bog-standard battery charger Thumbs Up

Nuff said Wink




You could always explain in a manner that the layman might understand.
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The Old Geeza
Back in my day...



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PostPosted: 20:28 - 06 Dec 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
You could always explain in a manner that the layman might understand.


Well, you asked for it. Please don't blame me for the long reply Wink

I think grim has just about answered it - before I got home and managed to answer myself Thumbs Up

However, I don't necessarily agree with his point about float charging, but that's his prerogative Wink

Basically, connect the main (high) beam of a car headlamp across the battery. This forces a deep-discharge. Once the filament reaches a small 'glow' remove the headlamp and allow the battery to stand for at least 30 minutes. DO NOT connect it to the battery charger immediately after removing the headlamp, since this will cause serious distortion of the plates and reduce the overall battery life by up to 80% Shocked

Why? because you have just subjected the battery to a serious discharge which causes effervescing ('fizzing') of the acid in negative polarity. By connecting the battery charger immediately, this 'fizzing' becomes more violent and produces a large amount of heat, which distorts or 'twists' the plates (don't forget, they're only made of soft lead).

After allowing the battery to 'settle', you'll notice the voltage has gradually risen (by about 75 - 90%), but they'll be no current available. So, if you connect a DMM (Digital Multi-Meter) across the battery, for some strange reason you'll probably find it appears to be fully charged Confused Don't be fooled. It's as flat as a pancake. Just connect the headlight across it again and see what happens - dimmer than a candle Shocked

Now connect it to a standard 10A - 20A battery charger. When the current drops to about 1A, connect the low beam of the headlamp across the battery (keeping the battery charger connected). This forces the battery to provide a 'small' load, but the battery charger to provide more current. Most of the current from the battery charger will be taken by the headlamp. At the same time, the battery is still being charged at a 'float' level.

The majority of battery chargers produce an output voltage of what is know as 'half-wave' rectified DC. This is not as smooth as 'full-wave' rectification, but batteries like it for charging purposes. But, it's no good whatsoever for proper 'float' charging or for keeping the battery topped up when it's already fully charged.

This is where a fully smoothed DC supply is required. It prevents the battery from 'fizzing' completely and does no harm to the battery whatsoever. Which is why I didn't completely agree with grim's explanation about float charging.

I hope this has been a little informative, even if slightly confusing Confused

If any of this has made any sense to anyone, then please rate the post.

If it's all been a complete load of gobbledegoop then please just ignore it Thumbs Up

All the best.
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carvell
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PostPosted: 20:55 - 06 Dec 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Old Geeza seems to have forgotton to mention about how to bring a battery back from the dead.

All you need is a nice big lorry esque battery, and some leads.

Hook up -ve on the big battery to +ve on the one you want to bring back to live and vice versa.

Stand well back.

If nothing goes bang, then there's a good chance that you've given your battery a new lease of life, if you haven't, then you haven't lost anything.

While we're on the subject of batteries, if you ever get a bog standard alkaline (duracell etc.) battery go dead, then if you feed a nice small constant current of 65mA or so through it, and leave it until the battery reads 110% of the stated voltage, then you've charged the standard battery back up to its former glory. I've been doing it for a while, ignore everything on the side of batteries! if you know what you're doing
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The Old Geeza
Back in my day...



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PostPosted: 21:02 - 06 Dec 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

carvell wrote:
The Old Geeza seems to have forgotton to mention about how to bring a battery back from the dead.


No I didn't.

My previous post also included the line...

"Anyone ever heard of deep-discharge, reverse-polarity-revaltalisation or float charge ?

(OK, the spelling was wrong, but so what?)!

I know all about reverse-charge-revitalisation. But I thought I'd explained more than enough to confuse people any further.

Furthermore, you can do this perfectly safely by using a current-limited DC Power Supply Unit (PSU).

Your method is just down right bloody dangerous Shocked



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carvell
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PostPosted: 21:11 - 06 Dec 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Old Geeza wrote:
Furthermore, you can do this perfectly safely by using a current-limited DC Power Supply Unit (PSU).

You can also do it safely by buying a new battery.

If I were going to buy a half decent PSU, I'd just buy a new battery instead - my way's far more exciting anyway!
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The Old Geeza
Back in my day...



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PostPosted: 21:20 - 06 Dec 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

carvell wrote:
The Old Geeza wrote:
Furthermore, you can do this perfectly safely by using a current-limited DC Power Supply Unit (PSU).

We don't all have one of them lying about Wink


We can all buy one though!

If I've said something wrong regarding my replies, then please tell me Thumbs Up

Your method is still bloody dangerous.

Oh, BTW: how do you charge your 'Duracell's' at 65mA ? Surely, you need a current-limited DC supply to do that Question Confused

But, of course, we haven't all got access to one of those, have we Confused


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mchaggis
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PostPosted: 21:23 - 06 Dec 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

carvell wrote:
All you need is a nice big lorry esque battery, and some leads...

... Stand well back.


I would certainly stand well back, truck electrics are 24V. Laughing Wink
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carvell
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PostPosted: 21:28 - 06 Dec 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's quite easy to make a constant current supply of 65mA.

A bog standard npn transistor with a bog standard hfe of 100, a couple of bog standard diodes ripped out of old things, a 12v battery and some electronics knowledge and a couple of resistors.

A PSU with a current limit of 65mA wouldn't really cut it anyway, the current limit is just that, a limit. As the battery charges, the current that is output will probably change (whilst remaining under the limit) as the voltage of the charging battery increases.

To make the constant 65mA source you can connect +12v from the 12v battery through a 1k resistor and a couple of diodes, in series pointing in the direction of conventional current. Connect the base of the transistor to the midpoint of this potential divider config. This provides a voltage of around 1.3v at the base, meaning a voltage of approx 0.65v at the emitter. Connect the emmiter to ground through a 100ohm resistor, you will then get a constant 65mA between +12v and the collector. The current here is equal to the emitter voltage over the 100ohm resistor.

Connect the battery you wish to charge between the collector and the emitter, +ve facing towards +12v and it'll charge nicely.
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The Old Geeza
Back in my day...



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PostPosted: 21:29 - 06 Dec 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh, thanks for removing and/or editing your post, carvell

Now no-one knows what I responded to Shocked

(it's a good thing that BCF kept a record of your earlier reply before you changed it) Exclamation



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carvell
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PostPosted: 21:30 - 06 Dec 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

I changed my mind about what I wanted to say, but for the record my "lying around" comment still applies. Smile

mchaggis wrote:

I would certainly stand well back, truck electrics are 24V.

Yeah - I know. I've brought life back to 6v batteries with 24v batteries before.

Don't knock it until you've tried it! Nothing goes fizz or bang, the place doesn't explode. People read too much into the idiot proof safety labels on batteries!
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The Old Geeza
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PostPosted: 21:38 - 06 Dec 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

carvell wrote:
It's quite easy to make a constant current supply of 65mA.

A bog standard npn transistor with a bog standard hfe of 100, a couple of bog standard diodes ripped out of old things, a 12v battery and some electronics knowledge and a couple of resistors.


BC182, BC183, BC184 are bog-standard transistors with a Hfe of at least 100. There are thousands of others, just check The Towers books for details.

What are you quoting Hfe for? Just about ANY GP NPN transistor will do Confused

D'ya' wanna' put a curcuit diagram on BCF before I do ?

I know F**k all, compared to you, I suppose. But then again, I only ran my Electronics Design business for about 22 years, so what would I know ?


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