nsr125rk 1992 import from dunno??

[jimpuntoy]

here is a pic of it just bought it anyone know where its been restricted?

[Kickstart]

Hi

Think pretty much on the official UK imports of that age were restricted. UK ones were restricted in the exhaust and the intake.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[Barry_M2]

Yeah, big f**k-off sleeve in the exhaust header. Take the exhaust off, drill the weld spots off and remove the sleeve. Then remove the plates from between the carb and head.

Bingo!

[jimpuntoy]

i just taken the exhaust off and there are three big weld blobs in there but they dont seem to be doing anything?? here i sa pic

[Kickstart]

Hi

Difficult to see in the picture, but looks to me almost like it has been derestricted. Check the inlet as well.

Why do you think it is restricted?

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[jimpuntoy]

i dont know i think it might be or some other problem, it will do 90-95 on the flat but 0-60 time is very slow as there is no power before the power band starts at about 7000 rpm, it struggles to take off from standing no matter how many revs u give it, also if you are going les than 7000rpm in 3rd,-6th gear it wont accelerate it just splutters and dies u need to drop it down to get the revs up and then it will go fine, any1 have any ideas???

[alains]

except the exhaust and the intake plate no restrictions are applied on nsr prior 1993 (type JC20) all KY4 electronics are on JC20 , all KBS are on JC22 . you should hit 100 mph , but may be your top-engine needs to be refresh (rings , piston, barrel and de-carbonization)
you can improve a bit by fitting carbon reeds and a BR9EIX plug
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the worst day fishing is better than the best day working

[Barry_M2]

From that pic, the restrictor is most definatley out.

Like Keith said, check the inlet now for metal plates making the inlet smaller (between carb and reeds).

[Kickstart]

[jimpuntoy]

thanx, thats helped me a lot. how much are the carbon reeds n where can i get them from ? and what difference will the different plug do ? i just put a new 1 in br8es i think

[Kickstart]

Hi

Reeds are not expensive but do not expect any real improvement from them. Unless you are using it round town a lot I think the 8 plugs are too hot. Cannot remember off the top of my head what it should be, but think it is a 10 they recommend for high speed use and an 8 for round town use.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[alains]

do not use the BR with ES or ECS they are bull shit , use BR9EIX in low temperature or BR10EIX in hot teperature . i use the 9 from october to april , and the 10 afterwards , you can use the 10 also if you run mostly on motorway at high revs . for your reeds here is the link (it's in france £23 which is not too bad) https://www.blue-oil-france.com/default.php?cPath=210
reference 360451
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the worst day fishing is better than the best day working

[jimpuntoy]

thanx, i live in the country so no town or motorway think ill get the br9eix now , would also order the reeds but cant understand the french site doh!

i also just put i k&n filter on sound better nowt else lol

[alains]

about translating french-english use this link https://babelfish.altavista.com/
you will be able to translate any language , even a web page
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the worst day fishing is better than the best day working

[Kickstart]

[jimpuntoy]

thanx for the translater, now jetting i have no idea on just bought 1 of those br9eix iridium expensive compared to normal hope theyr worth it.

btw , can u put redex in a 2 stroke to clean the carb cant find anything that says you cant??
thanx, jim

[alains]

you do not need to upjet , your origin one is big enough (145,50,70)
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the worst day fishing is better than the best day working

[jimpuntoy]

thats good thanks, alain, im just wandering if its just me ive not had a 2 stroke before, if im in 3rd gear for example going along at 6000 rpm you can carry on at a steady speed, but if you try to accelerate quickly it just dies and you have to go down a gear, do you usually ride 2 strokes at high revs all the time and take off from standing at high revs ? im new to bikes really,
any help appreciated
jim

[alains]

well , the K&N is not the kind of filter for the nsr , your bike will be impossible to adjust . i reconize that the genuine air box is not easy to work on but it keep your mixture constant at any speed . you shoud put back your air box and see the difference , i am pretty sure that you unconvenient will disappear . also try to check the valves timming , the crucial point (when the valves open) should be at least 6500 rpm if it's lower you've got a RC/valves Control unit problem
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the worst day fishing is better than the best day working

[Barry_M2]

Dont put a cone type filter on, they are a waste of money. You loose bottom end and mid-range drive, and gain practically nothing up top. You will be better off opening up the airbox lid a little, to let more air in. A pressurised airbox is much better than a cone filter.

Just take a look at the 2t gp bikes, they all have airbox's, although they are slightly bigger!

[jimpuntoy]

oops ill have to buy a new air box now i damaged the old 1 never mind , when riding along the rc valve kicks in at 7000 i think, but how can i tell when the valve opens when standing revving? also the problem was there before the cone filter was put on.

thanks,jim

[Kickstart]

[alains]

download my file and check your valves timming
https://www.geneva-racing.com/~alains/NSRtips.doc (1Mo)
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the worst day fishing is better than the best day working

[jimpuntoy]

thanks a lot keith ,and alains nice manual

[deputy]

Don't know whether anyone has mentioned this, but it is probably worth checking the adjustment of the power valve cable. If you have a manual there should be a section on adjusting this. Also you could check the adjustment on the throttle and choke cables.

I had a similar bike (unfaired version, Italian import) until fairly recently, ran like a bag of nails when I bought it. Had to go throught the manual and adjust pretty much everything that could be adjusted. The cables to the power valve had been swapped, hence it was forcing the valve closed rather than opening it and there was no return spring on the choke cable, hence if you used the choke to start the bike it ran fine until warm then when you pushed the choke in the plunger in the carb did not reseat and you were running rich all the time, which meant that it ran very rough at low revs but picked once past 6-7K.
Hope this helps and you get it sorted soon.