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How to treat rust, and stop it occuring

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AceRimmer
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 08 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 20:35 - 09 Jan 2006    Post subject: How to treat rust, and stop it occuring Reply with quote

I live in a bad area for rusting, leave some metal out over night and the next day its orange, no joke. Things rust especially quickly, maybe because I live near the coast.

I got my lovely Hornet last year and now its starting to rust, had no rust when I got it. The same happened to my last bike. So what I need to know is how I can stop it happening.


I bought some Scottoiler f365 or whatever its called, but I still seem to be getting some rust.

It really aggrevates me because, for a start it cost me a load of money, I look after it and keep it clean.



Help would be appreciated.


Last edited by AceRimmer on 08:36 - 08 Aug 2007; edited 1 time in total
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Bezzer
World Chat Champion



Joined: 14 Apr 2005
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PostPosted: 22:37 - 09 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only way you're going to stop it is to get rid of or neutralize the rust you have to then seal the surface with paint, laquer or plating for a more permanent cure or for temporary cure grease, wax, ACF50 etc, plain untreated steel is going to rust whatever.
Kurust or similar will neutralize/kill the rust and leave an oxide layer. Wire brush, wet & dry etc will remove it.
Can't make out what the bit is you've pictured but your other alternative is to replace steel with stainless, alloy, titanium etc, make a nice winter project for you Mr. Green
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Last edited by Bezzer on 23:29 - 09 Jan 2006; edited 1 time in total
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extreme3d
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Joined: 27 Dec 2004
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PostPosted: 22:42 - 09 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm afraid thats what you get when you buy a honda... Laughing

How and when are you applying the FS365?
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BenBray
Spanner Monkey



Joined: 05 Aug 2005
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PostPosted: 00:56 - 10 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you feel bad about that, I'll post a pic of the underside of a few parts on my bike. Rusted like a bitch.

Today I got the rust of my wheels with emory[sp?] paper. Then I put some f365 on it, and they look nice and sexy.

Really, that rust isn't that bad.
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Knowlsey
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 07 Apr 2005
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PostPosted: 03:28 - 10 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

there no magic cheap and cheerfull cure for rust except shot blast and plastic coating, doesnt matter what you do it only needs a pin whole where the salt water can get itself in and its off again, i use the kurust, but only on the rust itself and be carefull not to get it on paintwork, as for the tank etc, most manufacturers dont give that good a finnish around the rim and underneath the tank, thats why when i buy a second hand bike a rub down and do the underneath with smoothrite then etch primer then final coat, just aswell you dont have a gs500, the rust like fook

I usually spray silicone spray over areas to dispell water, thats what they use for car plastics for the shine, also use it on me bike gloves
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AceRimmer
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 08 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 08:42 - 10 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got the bike about 5 months ago, the guy who I bought it off had really looked after (having said that it hadnt been used much), it was rustless, that pic above is the result of 5 months at my home, imagine it in a year Confused .

The pic above is of the exhaust, so I guess its to be expected when all the crud off the road is splashing up and hitting it. The suspension usually tends to rust quite quickly aswell, but sofar it hasnt.

At the moment the tank is fine, I keep waxing that. Only sign of rust at the top is some of the bolts, which ive now covered with petroleum jelly.

Quote:
How and when are you applying the FS365?

Firstly, I clean the bike by either powerwashing or handwashing, then I dry it, then usually the day after I apply the FS365. I just spray all over, leave it an hour then spray over again, about 3 times. Obviously once ive run it I have to spray it again cos it all burns off, I always do it when its cooled down though.

Basically, I think its because I live in a low lying (bogland/cattarh valley) with a lot of moisture in the air that makes the process quicker. For now I will stick with cleaning and spraying f365 on it, eventually when it gets worse ill have to clean the rust off and respray. I might get myself some kurust and tidy little areas up with that to stop it spreading.
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syl
World Chat Champion



Joined: 05 Dec 2005
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PostPosted: 09:14 - 10 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

AceRimmer wrote:
Quote:
How and when are you applying the FS365?

Firstly, I clean the bike by either powerwashing or handwashing, then I dry it, then usually the day after I apply the FS365. I just spray all over, leave it an hour then spray over again, about 3 times. Obviously once ive run it I have to spray it again cos it all burns off, I always do it when its cooled down though.


I thought the instructions were to apply the FS365 straight after washing the bike, not the next day? I certainly apply it straight after washing - together with WD40 to the electrics.
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BFG
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 14 Feb 2005
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PostPosted: 09:38 - 10 Jan 2006    Post subject: Re: How to treat rust, and stop it occuring Reply with quote

AceRimmer wrote:
I live in a bad area for rusting, leave some metal out over night..........


If you're leaving your bike out overnight, get a cover for it, one with anti-condensation lining. That should help.
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extreme3d
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Joined: 27 Dec 2004
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PostPosted: 15:59 - 10 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

dmahon wrote:
AceRimmer wrote:
Firstly, I clean the bike by either powerwashing or handwashing, then I dry it, then usually the day after I apply the FS365. I just spray all over, leave it an hour then spray over again, about 3 times. Obviously once ive run it I have to spray it again cos it all burns off, I always do it when its cooled down though.


I thought the instructions were to apply the FS365 straight after washing the bike, not the next day? I certainly apply it straight after washing - together with WD40 to the electrics.


Yes, apply it straight away after washing/drying. Also whilst on the subject of drying, how are you doing this? Make sure that you dry the down pipes, exhaust and engine casings first with a clean towel (to stop watermarking). Then turn on the engine AND LEAVE IT RUNNING UNTIL IT REACHES NORMAL OPERATING TEMP whilst you dry and polish the rest of the bike. This ensures its nice and hot which also deys difficult to reach areas such as the underside of the tank, inside of the frame, bolt holes etc. So use the engines heat to your advantage.

Then spray FS365 over EVERYTHING that may rust, not just the engine. Underside of tank, frame, rear shock and front fork lowers (wipe forks with a tissue not spray as FS365 and brake disks don't mix to well Wink ) are some of the key areas to pay attention to. It will only burn off the downpipes and exhaust. The engine casings will not get hot enough to burn it off.

As to powerwashing DON'T!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Check your radiator - I bet it's got ugly marks caused by your waterjet flattening the fins Mad . Pressure washing will also blast water into all those 'nooks and crannys' where the FS365 will have been building up. It slowly drips into those areas each time you apply it. By using a pressure washer you will wash all the oil away so you might as well not be applying it. Jet washing is not required if you wash your bike often enough which it seems you do. A normal hose and bucket of hot soapy water will suffice.
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AceRimmer
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 08 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 22:16 - 10 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good advice extreme3d. Thankfully with this bike I havent powerwashed it yet so havent mangled the radiator fins, my old bike I used to powerwash, I guess because of lazyness, think ill stick to handwashing now.

I didnt realize I needed to apply the f365 straight after washing, will do in future.

I wondered why the pipes were going crappy(marked and funny colour) coming out of the engine, is this because of watermarking or just the way the pipes go?
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