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Standard, Heavy Duty, ORing or XRing - whats the difference?

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0ni
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PostPosted: 04:49 - 18 Jan 2006    Post subject: Standard, Heavy Duty, ORing or XRing - whats the difference? Reply with quote

As the title really, I maintain the chain on my GSXR 600 so the present jobby has lasted quite a while (5k with me, 4k with previous chap), but its stretched now and has a few links which are getting stiffer so the time has come to replace it.

Question time: Will the increased price of a chain correspond to an increased life expectancy. And if (as I expect it does) will it be worth it?

Looking from the most basic, the Standard chain, are we talking about something that will snap after a 1000 miles? Or something that will last 4000+ with care?
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PsychoHippy
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PostPosted: 05:04 - 18 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

In my experience the xring ones last quite a lot longer, I've only had to adjust the one on the ZZR three times in 8 thousand miles, so in my opinion, definitely worth the extra £15 or so.
If you are looking to change the chain, don't forget to do the sprockets at the same time or you can end up causing excess wear on the new chain.
You should be able to get chain and sprockets for about £80 or so from Busters Accessories (there is a link in the 'links' area).
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Zimbo
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PostPosted: 08:54 - 18 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're going through chains in 4000 miles you really need to look at your maintenance, mine last 20,000 plus! Fit a scotoiler if you're not able to maintain it yourself.
As for chains, I always get the best I can, X ring gold from someone like DID. Heavy duty chains should last longer than standard ones, X ring should in theory last longer than O ring. The chains don't actually stretch, the links wear, so keeping it clean and lubricated increases it's life expectancy by a lot!!!
If you're on a budget, Busters do X ring gold chain and sprocket kits for £85.
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0ni
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PostPosted: 17:50 - 18 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Zimbo wrote:
If you're going through chains in 4000 miles you really need to look at your maintenance


As I said: "(5k with me, 4k with previous chap)" and I live on a buidling site so my is constantly covered in shit.

Thanks for the reply about the X-Ring jobbies. I know they are good and in theory are better than everything else - what I was more interested in however was if I could get reasonable mileage out of a 25 quid standard chain or 35 quid heavy duty chain?

Thanks

oni
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 18:14 - 18 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

There are 2 issues, which are the strength of the chain and the wear resistance. 2 different things.

From an old M&P catalogue (which listed the chain strengths), there were 4 different DID 525 chains (what is listed for the GSXR600 at that time). Tensile strength varied from a standard chain as 3200Kg/F to there top of the range 525HV X ring chain at 4140Kg/F. Exceed the tensile strength of the chain and it will snap, irrespective of mileage or how well it is looked after.

The X ring chains should last longer, but abuse them with poor maintenance and you will kill them pretty quickly. Whether the extra money is worth it probably depends on how well you keep it.

From the same M&P catalogue, the wear resistance of a basic 525 chain was listed as "100" compared to 2900 for an O ring chain and 3320 for the top spec X ring chain (although the EK chains show rather less difference, and I suspect that might be more realistic).

By the way I get at least 15k from a chain and I am not the best person for keeping them clean and lubed (the bike gets used all year round). In fact I think I have only ever cleaned a chain once.

All the best

Keith
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Tarmacsurfer
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PostPosted: 19:03 - 18 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I always use a DID HD X ring now, never had any problems with them. Having a chain snap on me at speed is not an experience I ever wish to repeat. Ever. Like, not again. No way.

Confused
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 20:45 - 18 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I am going for an HD chain with scotoiler on my bike this time. In theory, the oiler should keep it sweet and would mean any form of 'sealing' between the rollers is unecessary. Should also reduce rolling resistance as well as being a hell of a lot cheaper.
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pipnet11
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PostPosted: 21:04 - 18 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
The chains don't actually stretch, the links wear, so keeping it clean and lubricated increases it's life expectancy by a lot!!!


Glad someone pointed this out, as a lot of people dont seem to quite grasp this idea. The cain on my GS125 didnt get chenged 'tlll 27,000 miles, and even then it just passed the MOT with it but the guy recomended I change it as it was on the limit, so I did.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:30 - 18 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chains DO stretch, but you have to be giving it big beans. Ask a drag racer, faster ones chuck away a chain after less than two miles of use because they are stretched to buggery.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 23:17 - 18 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

pipnet11 wrote:
and even then it just passed the MOT with it but the guy recomended I change it as it was on the limit, so I did.


Chains are not an MOT item. Strangely.

All the best

Keith
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mchaggis
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PostPosted: 23:27 - 18 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got a bike with shaft drive instead. Laughing

Mind you, its primary function was to be cheap and the engine configuration was a bonus. A bog standard cheap and nasty OE chain has lasted almost 10k klicks without quite being worn out, and it has not been well looked after at all. Last winter saw it seize more links than I care to think about, and it was a rusty mess then; a wire brush and a load of oil and lube saw it come up nicely.
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0ni
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PostPosted: 00:15 - 19 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

So what is the minimum you guys would go for then. Im probably only going to do another 10k max on this bike before it is turned into a track toy/decommissioned so thats how long it has to last for.

Would H/D be enough and not snap at a bad moment?
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 12:09 - 19 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

If you treat it well (Scott Oiler time) then a non O ring chain will probably last that long happily. However from the figures above it looks like the HD chains are a lot weaker than the O ring chains.

While a chain wearing out is not a major problem, a chain snapping has a reasonable chance of smashing the crankcases.

As such I would be tempted to pay the small amount extra for the O ring chain.

All the best

Keith
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 12:57 - 19 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not so sure those figures are all that reliable. I was under the impression that an HD chain was stronger than an o-ring chain by something like a factor of three. Far be it for me to suggest such a thing, but given the source of the data, is it not possible that a vested interest in selling a more expensive chain may come into play?

The figures for wear resistance presumably do not take into account what type of lubrication has been applied to the chain.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 13:18 - 19 Jan 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Here is the DID listing of chain specs:-

https://www.didchain.com/specs.htm

From that the non O ring chains are about average.

Interesting that a 525 non O ring is stronger than the 525 O ring, yet a 530 non O ring is weaker than the 530 O ring.

All the best

Keith
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