MOT Time Pre MOT check

[shammon]

OK nearly time for my Yamaha XJ600 to have its mot. last one was 2002! (Has been getting rebuild over the winter.) Having spent many long days & nights getting it to a road worthy state i want it to pass the Mot. Any one have or know a good links that will show me what the Mot inspector will chack and what to avoid, also any tips you have for getting it through, like washing it before

Andy
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YAMAHA YZF 1000cc THUNDERACE- 'ƃuıןןǝds ʇnoqɐ ʇıɥs ɐ ǝʌıƃ ʇuop ı

[stinkwheel]

They aren't allowed to take bits off to check them. If something is covered over, they can't test it (classic is blown fork seals covered by gaiters).

As a general rule, if it is on, it has to work.

The easy way is to take it and see if it passes, you usually get a free retest if it fails so you can go away and fix any faults then bring it back to show them.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[mchaggis]

Lights, electrics and switches all have to work. The headlamp has to point straight forward and lower than straight forward on dipped beam, higher and to the left on full beam. They either do or don't, so that's an easy one.

Wheel, swingarm and steering head bearings have to be intact and have no play in them. Back and front wheels have to be in as good as perfect alignment. Suspension has to be smooth and damped. I should imagine they check for saggy springs too.

The frame, swingarm and subframe want to be free of rust, especially anything beyond superficial. Front and back brakes have to be greater than a certain efficiency (generate a certain percentage of the vehicle weight in brake force), but if they aren't seized, don't leak or have air in, they should be fine. The brake anchor wants to have the relevant split pins.

Rider and pillion footpegs need rubber and need not to droop below horizontal - you don't want a pillion's feet sliding off the pegs in the damp. Tread depth needs to be sufficient. Cables want to avoid being trapped by the moving forks when the steering is turned, and the engine shouldn't change in speed similarly.

It isn't really anything more than making sure it is safe: controls, lighting, suspension and brakes are the things really tested.

Of course, what I have listed isn't a comprehensive list of things it can fail on. The MOT isn't really all that a major test though.

https://www.motuk.co.uk/ has a proper list.
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I must not be a troll...
Mmmm, Guinness
Discovering the delights of Hammerite and a 3/4" brush.

[Walloper]

Hate to Nit-Pick.
The pillion pegs on my ST are just metal. Nae rubbur.
For your perusal:
https://www.vosa.gov.uk/vosa/mottestersgarageowners/mottesting/motorcyclecomponentstested.htm
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W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair

[strag]

Why do you say pegs need rubber? Modern sports bikes don't have rubber on the pegs.
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carbon bling

[mchaggis]