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 Topic moved: from General Bike Pictures to New Bikers by G (29 Mar 2006 - 00:46)
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CockNose
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006
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PostPosted: 01:15 - 29 Mar 2006    Post subject: New Tall Bikers Reply with quote

Hey people im 16 and im 17 in 2 months i wanna buy a 125 sports bike..... one problem im 6ft 4 Confused i doubt very much the cbr will be suitable ^^ help me out

Last edited by CockNose on 01:31 - 29 Mar 2006; edited 1 time in total
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CockNose
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PostPosted: 01:19 - 29 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got a couple newbie questions.. after i pass my test wen im 17 is 125cc the most i can get? or can i just get a "larger bike" Confused Confused Confused Confused Confused Confused Confused
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G
The Voice of Reason



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PostPosted: 01:47 - 29 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

See the sticky at the top of the new bikers section:
https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewforum.php?f=32
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Rookie
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PostPosted: 01:51 - 29 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

6'4", you're an inch taller than me. I sat on a CBR125, and it was tiiiny. I wouldn't want to ride one every day, that's for sure. And I didn't even put my feet on the pegs or start the damn thing! Laughing

Given that you're looking at a CBR, you should seriously consider a Varadero. They have to be the biggest 125 around, and whilst they're a 4 stroke, so not fast, so's the CBR, so no loss there. They are seriously huge as a bike, I saw what I think was the 500 or something in a shop the other day; it was absolutely humungous. Seriously, I'm 6'3" and I had my doubts about it's size. Also consider the Hyosung Comet, they're pretty big. Again a 4 stroke.

As for the test, if you're talking about the A2 (full-ish) test you're not restricted to 125cc, just anything with less than 33bhp. Any bike can be restricted to 33bhp, but keep in mind some handle it better than others. Though for me, the 33BHP rule is purely a technicality. Shhh!

If you're simply talking about a CBT, you'll be restricted to 125cc and will have to use L plates.

HTH Thumbs Up
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G
The Voice of Reason



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PostPosted: 01:54 - 29 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rookie wrote:

Given that you're looking at a CBR, you should seriously consider a Varadero. They have to be the biggest 125 around, and whilst they're a 4 stroke, so not fast, so's the CBR, so no loss there.

Varaderos aren't that tall, but are fairly room.

A DT/KMX 125 is bigger and should be a lot more fun to ride (decently more power and less weight).
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CockNose
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PostPosted: 02:02 - 29 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the help.. but i was kinda lookin for a super bike, but ill be to cramped on one. so i think im better of sticking to a onroad- trails bike untill im fully passed and can get a bigger better bike.

But for now i need to know how to pick a good trails bike im looking for fast, reliable, semi decent looking, and doesnt have the hairdryer sound to it. I have a budget of up to £2000 can any 1 help??


Wink
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 02:27 - 29 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
fast, reliable, semi decent looking, and doesnt have the hairdryer sound to it. I have a budget of up to £000


You can have either reliable or fast with the hairdrier sound. You can't have both.

I personally would avoid the Varadero. It is WAY too pricey for a learner bike. The Honda XR125 has the same engine as the CBR125 and is both lighter and cheaper than the Varadero (which has a twin cylinder engine). A more 'honest' trailie if you ask me. These are 4-strokes so you are pretty much going to be stuck at the legal power limit for learners without serious fiddling. In theory, both he Varadero and the XR have the same power output so the XR SHOULD be a wee bit faster due to its lightness.

The DT125 is a proper big, tall trail bike, it has a 'hairdrier' 2-stroke engine and as such can be tuned up fairly easily. This is illegal for a learner but everyone seems to do it. They require more frequent (but simpler) maintainance than the 4-strokes. The more you tune it, the more maintainance you will have to do and the less reliable the bike. They also do a supermoto version of the DT125 which looks very smart.

Something else worth having a look at is the MZ 125 range. They do several models and from what I have seen, they are well put together wee bikes. They are a reasonable size too so you stand a chance of fitting on their most road biased one (the RT125) which I think looks quite smart. They also do a crosser and a supermoto using the same engine.
MZ RT125
https://www.logansmc.com/images/Rt125.jpg

I should also mention the other option which is to not to blow your wad on a newish learner bike. You'll get a perfectly serviceable 125 for a fair bit under £1000 which leaves you money to do your test and something towards your next bike. Also means it isn't the end of the world if it gets nicked or you crash it.

Cheaper second hand 125s hold their value. If you bought one for say £850, you'd sell it for exactly the same in six months. If you bought one for £2000, you'd probably lose up to £500 on it in the same time scale.

EDIT: I should add that size isn't all that important, as long as you don't feel cramped. My mate Chris is 6'7" (he can put both feet flat on the ground and stand up off the saddle on a KLR650) and he rides a honda C90 to work every day.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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CockNose
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PostPosted: 02:40 - 29 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks alot. i think the XR125 sounds more or less what im looking for but i doubt i can find one of thoes for £800.

As for trails bikes i dont have a clue about them, are they cheaper or more expensive to insure and how do they handel, fast acceleration but low top speed im guessing? Smile
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 02:59 - 29 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right. A trials bike is something else entirely. They are specialist bikes built for riding up cliffs and over cars, do about 15mph flat out and have no saddle.

You mean a trail bike which is a term often used to referr to a road legal motcrosser (ie. an off-road style bike).

Modern 4-stroke learner bikes have little to chose between them in terms of power and acceleration. They are all restricted to the same power output so in terms of top-speed, there is very little difference. They'll do about 65mph on a perfectly flat piece of road on a still day, some might touch 70mph if you crouch down over the handlebars. (cue loads of "Mine does 80mph all day long". Guys, your speedo is telling lies.)

There are still a few 2-strokes on the market. These can be tuned up. A full-on DT125 with everything done to it would probably hit 90mph on a good day. Of course, this means it is no longer legal to ride on L-plates.

When I was talking about a cheap 125, I was meaning a simple one like a CG or a GS, possibly an older DT (although old, performance 2-strokes can have reliability issues). They are just a very basic, cheap motorbike.

Looking at biketrader, You'll probably get something like an XR125 with under 10,000 miles on it for £1,200-£1,500.

Oh, and do have a look at those MZs. HERE.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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hellkat
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PostPosted: 03:22 - 29 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

CockNose wrote:
fast acceleration but low top speed im guessing?


In general that's what you'll get with a trailie. But they are cool, and as Stinkwheel says, possibly the DT or the XR/XL Honda things are the most likely things you should look at (his passion for MZs being renowned, he's right on that front too) ...

With trailies, you need to ensure that they are SECURED as safely as possible. If you have a garage, USE it, don't just park the bike out on the drive with a chain around it's tyres. Young hoons (i.e., boys mostly your age or younger, LOL) ... like to steal them, mainly because they are the next most fun/easy thing to steal and ride around town till the petrol runs out - after peds, of course.
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CockNose
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PostPosted: 18:51 - 29 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
With trailies, you need to ensure that they are SECURED as safely as possible. If you have a garage, USE it, don't just park the bike out on the drive with a chain around it's tyres. Young hoons (i.e., boys mostly your age or younger, LOL) ... like to steal them, mainly because they are the next most fun/easy thing to steal and ride around town till the petrol runs out - after peds, of course.


How exactly are they more easy to steal, and how would i go about makeing sure that its as secure as can be whilst waiting e.g at a train station??
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 19:02 - 29 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

They are easier to steal because people have this strange idea of "Small bike, small chain.". Smaller bikes tend to not be fitted with an alarm/immobaliser. The ignition wiring is also usually pretty basic and easily acessable which makes it simpler to hotwire.

Security-wise when you are out, get the biggest, heaviest, meanest looking chain you can afford and chain the frame of the bike to something big and solid (such as a lamp post).

Alarms are a bit of a mixed blessing on a 125 because they run down the battery. You can get passive immobalisers which have no battery draw which to me would be a good option if your finances run to one.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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CockNose
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PostPosted: 19:05 - 29 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

How do i carry a big mean looking bike chain. I thought trail bikes dident have seat compartments or will that have to go in a back pack??
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G
The Voice of Reason



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PostPosted: 19:07 - 29 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can get little bags that fit on the back of bikes for that very purpose.
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CockNose
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PostPosted: 19:17 - 29 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

are ther proper names for the passive imobilisers i cant seem to find anything?

And what is the insurance like for these things?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 19:48 - 29 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Immobaliser wise, I don't know if the advertise it this way. You would need to look at the spec of the individual ones.

Essentially an immobaliser is a complex switch. You route critical parts of the wiring through the immobaliser box. The immobaliser holds the switch 'open' and only closes it (and connects the wires together) when it detects the microchip in your key or the signal from a transmitter in the key fob.

There are two types. An 'active' one looks for the signal all the time, when it detects the chip/signal it 'activates' the bike. This 'looking' puts a small but constant drain on your battery. So the sort where you press a button and the lights flash to indicate it is deactivated are active immobalisers.

The 'passive' sort usually has a chip built into the key and only 'looks' for the chip when you switch the ignition on. There is no battery draw until you turn the key.

Both do the same thing ie. make it very hard to hotwire the bike. You would have to either break into the immobaliser box or rewire half the bike.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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king kong
Nearly there...



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PostPosted: 22:21 - 29 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm 5'10" and have a Varadero, can touch 85mph and looks like a 600. Good riding position and has a very reliable V-twin.

They hold their price and there are plenty of 2nd hand examples around.
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Jack_Cheese
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PostPosted: 22:25 - 29 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

i'm 6'1" and own a cagiva planet. It's got drag bars on too, so someone who is 6'4" would probably be fine on one with original bars. Have a look round, and remember to get some test rides if owners are kind enough.

It also depends on the kind of ride you want. The cagiva is a sportsbike through and through, and is consequentially set up with harsh suspension, but it corners well, and is good for filtering.

An SM-style bike will be better for hooliganism (wheelies, etc...) and occasional offroading.

Your choice, if your mates have bikes, blag their keys off them.

Jack
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CockNose
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PostPosted: 22:36 - 29 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

What about Disc Locks??
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Jack_Cheese
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PostPosted: 22:52 - 29 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

They don't stop it being picked up, one with a tumbler pin lock can be raked (has yale style key), and an oxford titan can be opened with a biro. Get one with a reminder cable to link up to the right handlebar, too. I guarantee you will forget that you've left your disclock on at least once.

Jack
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Quacker_boy: "Jack, you really are a dick!"
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John C
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PostPosted: 23:22 - 29 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm over 6 ft and have have an NSR. It's good for 100 on the odd ocation you find a nice long straight. They'll sit at 70-80 all day.
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