Resend my activation email : Register : Log in 
BCF: Bike Chat Forums


Dark room

Reply to topic
Bike Chat Forums Index -> Dear Auntie BCF... Goto page 1, 2  Next
View previous topic : View next topic  
Author Message

LustyLew
World Chat Champion



Joined: 19 Apr 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 18:05 - 03 Apr 2006    Post subject: Dark room Reply with quote

And not that kind you dirty beggars!

Has anyone here ever had a photographic dark room?

I'd really like to get back into Photography but would like to do everything, not just taking the shots.

I was wondering what sort of gear I'd need, I know I'd need an enlarger, but I can't remember the chemicals you need as well.

I know it would make more sense to get a digital SLR, but after using my mates digital camera at a recent go karting event, I'm not too impressed with their responses.

Any info will be greatly appreciated.
____________________
Like a Yorkie - I'm not for the girls Wink
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

G
The Voice of Reason



Joined: 02 Feb 2002
Karma :

PostPosted: 18:20 - 03 Apr 2006    Post subject: Re: Dark room Reply with quote

Personally, unless you are very interested in developing yourself (I have done this in the past) rather than just taking pics I would look digital.

Have a look at recent digital SLRs.
They are much, much better than most non-slr digital cameras.
Cost will probably be less for digital from the outset as you don't have the expense of a darkroom, never mind the continuing expense of films and chemicals.
Obviosuly digital also means you can instantly see if a shot has worked or not as well.

Alternatively, try a Minolta Z1; I've got some good shots with Bendy's one of these and have just got myself one for £60 on ebay.
These are much, much better than some of their rivals on shutter lag, some of which are truely dire. Also has all the basic manual modes as well as various auto ones so you can play as you so desire.
Only 3mp, but still enough for an A4 sized print.

If you can get to a Bemsee (my club racing) event, why not see if you can blag goes on people's cameras as there's usually a good range.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Itchy
Super Spammer



Joined: 07 Apr 2005
Karma :

PostPosted: 19:07 - 03 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

unless you want to be a spy ,

with 35mm or even the 110 films you can zoom in and enlarge postage stamp areas of a picture and still have them crystal clear digital goes all pixelly unless you take huge uncompressed pictures.


But with that postage stamp enlarged picture you can then enlarge a postage stamp sized part of the picture to a full size picture ,

which was a favourite spy trick , ie to hide pictures of secret documents in seeming innocent pictures take them to spy hq and enlarge the documents in the background of the innocent pictures
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 21:02 - 03 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

You will need (at a minimum)

1) A light safe box/drawer to keep your film and paper in.
2) A safe light.
3) A plentiful supply of water and a sink.
4) A light-proof film developing tub with spool.
5) Chemicals: Developer, Fixer, Stop bath. You might want some things like wetting agent or other specialist chemicals later.
6) A selection of bottles to keep your chemicals in and a jug/cylinder to measure them in.
7) A thermometer to measure the temperature of the chemicals.
8) Three trays to develop the prints in.
9) A film squeegee.
10) Tongs.
11) A stopclock with glow in the dark hands.
12) clips to hang your drying pictures on.
13) A sign or bolt for the door to stop people walking in (this is important, if they walk in when you have the drawer containing hundreds of pounds worth of light-sensitive material open, you will not be amused)
and
14) An enlarger.

I bought all of the above second-hand for £60 (with a few other odds and sods thrown in) from a guy who was going digital.

If you want to do colour prints, this will be a lot more expensive. If you haven't done it much before, best sticking to B&W for a bit anyway, you have to do colour in total darkness (although you can easily develop the colour film and do a contact sheet in a basic darkroom).
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
Karma :

PostPosted: 22:05 - 03 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Doing it in college evening classes at the moment. Quite fun (and B&W film is dirt cheap these days).

You can pick up B&W enlarging equipment quite cheaply on Ebay at the moment, and I have just bought a load of stuff (still need some blackout curtains for the spare room, some chemicals and a timer for the enlarger, although I could cheat with a timer clock). 10"x8" variable contrast paper (from Jessops, thought to be Agfa paper really) is about £18 for 100 sheets with a student discount.

However the quality doing it yourself from 35mm B&W film is not as good as you might expect compared to a decent digital SLR. Doing 10"x8" prints they are coming out with a noticeable amount of grain from the negative (although that is possibly something to do with the film developing stuff we are using). Digital SLR stuff is now pushing the limits of the lenses.

Developing takes ages and is a bit boring but enlarging is quite fun.

All the best

Keith
____________________
Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

G
The Voice of Reason



Joined: 02 Feb 2002
Karma :

PostPosted: 22:28 - 03 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:

If you want to do colour prints, this will be a lot more expensive. If you haven't done it much before, best sticking to B&W for a bit anyway, you have to do colour in total darkness (although you can easily develop the colour film and do a contact sheet in a basic darkroom).

I believe you can get lights that work with colour film (sodium lights?), but I think they're pretty expensive. (And the enlargers etc are more as well).

Would want to start on B&W anyway to 'get into it', were I going back down that route.

Incidentally, my first ever enlarger consisted of a slide projector with a push bike light bulb instead of the normal light and a camera lens, from what I remember.

Got an 'acceptable' print, though not quite top quality.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

biker-dj
Spanner Monkey



Joined: 10 Apr 2005
Karma :

PostPosted: 22:35 - 03 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

You took the words out of my mouth Stinkwheel, and as someone else mentioned there is a lot of darkroom stuff on ebay - I was looking myself the other day thinking I might like to get back into it. I only did black and white but so satisfying to do everything from start to finish. I expect the chemicals are quite cheap now. One other little tip is buy some marbles - as you use the chemicals up put marbles in the bottle, the less air there is in the bottle the slower the chemicals oxidise. Good luck if you do get back into it Thumbs Up
____________________
Ride with the music!
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 23:07 - 03 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:

However the quality doing it yourself from 35mm B&W film is not as good as you might expect compared to a decent digital SLR. Doing 10"x8" prints they are coming out with a noticeable amount of grain from the negative (although that is possibly something to do with the film developing stuff we are using).


If you are getting grain it is either due to the speed of the film (400 ASA film IS grainy). Ideally use 100 ASA if you can get away with the light conditions. If it is grain in the film, you will see it as you project the enlargement.

or

It is your paper (more likely at 8x10"). You get different grades of paper. You also get multigrade paper which can appear grainy or sharp depending on how you expose it. You would usually expose it using white light for a short period to get the grainy effect and for harsh contrast. You would want to use quite a dark red filter and a long exposure to get crystal clear prints with subtle contrast.

I took a picture of a footprint in snow for my ScotVec photography asessment. As I remember it was a 2 minute exposure at f11 on multigrade paper with a deep red filter. The negative itself looked totally black, I have the print on my wall and there are no grains at all unless you look with a magnifying glass.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
Karma :

PostPosted: 23:15 - 03 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

50 speed film, but using a large amount of magenta to up the contrast.

All the best

Keith
____________________
Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

LustyLew
World Chat Champion



Joined: 19 Apr 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 00:39 - 04 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thumbs Up Smile

Thanks for the advice guys!

I did GCSE photography but sadly the school went to was full of mindless thugs and a lot of the developing/enlarging equipment got vandalised. Even so it was a long time ago, my work got sent off to the examineing board so I never got it back.

I'd like to get back into it, but as many of you have pointed out, it's not cheap, it's time consuming and dSLR is rapidly catchign up. But perhaps I'm just a traditionalist.

I'd love to have my old camera back. Manual foucs and manual wind. Nothing battery powered to fail. Simple, basic technology. Great! Smile

G, when is the next BEMSEE at Brands? I'll have to see if I can get some time to take you up on that. I was looking at getting some action shots!

Cheers for all the advice guys, much appreciated!
____________________
Like a Yorkie - I'm not for the girls Wink
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 02:25 - 04 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey, if you are really into that kind of thing, try some pinhole photography.

You will need to make a cardboard box with a pinhole in it. Put your paper in the back, take it out and prop it somewhere you want a picture of. Uncover the pinhole for 2-3 minutes, cover it then take it back to the darkroom. You will need a tray of developer and one of fixer to develop it (you can use a stopbath inbetween if you are feeling fancy, dilute vinegar works fine).

The results are in negative but the resolution is as crisp as it is possible to be. All parts of the picture will be in sharp focus.

I fully intend to try this using x-ray film in the camera. This should make it possible to get a positive picture by exposing the developed x-ray film onto the paper like doing a contact print using a giant negative.

Quote:
50 speed film, but using a large amount of magenta to up the contrast.


Well with 50 film, must be the grains in the paper unless you are blowing it up to the size of a bus shelter.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
Karma :

PostPosted: 09:27 - 04 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Well with 50 film, must be the grains in the paper unless you are blowing it up to the size of a bus shelter.


No, just 10x8, but suspect it has quite a bit to do with the chemicals used for developing the film.

All the best

Keith
____________________
Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
Karma :

PostPosted: 09:32 - 04 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Just converted a body cap for use as a pinhole on a dSLR. Works OK, but doesn't half show up the rubbish on the sensor. Unfortunatly not that clear so I think I need a smaller hole (current hole is 0.35mm).

All the best

Keith
____________________
Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 19:26 - 04 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:


No, just 10x8, but suspect it has quite a bit to do with the chemicals used for developing the film.

All the best

Keith


I don't see how that can have any bearing on the presence of grains on the paper. Confused The grains you see on a light photograph are the actual light sensitive silver nitrate crystals on either the film or the paper. Faster films and papers have bigger crystals which react to light more quickly and so appear more grainy.

50 ASA film has tiny crystals, I have a gadget to look for them on my enlarger projection to make sure the image is focused perfectly "grain sharp" and even using that, they are barely visible with 50 ASA film. If you do have a very grainy film, you can 'blur' them out to a certain extent by slightly defocusing the condenser (if it is an adjustable one) without affecting the focus of the image too much.

Multigrade paper has a variety of different sized crystals on it which react at different rates according to the light level projected onto it.

The chemicals used don't affect the size of the crystals, that was decided before you even bought the paper/film.

You can sometimes get small black 'speckles' on a print, often caused by using water from the hot tap which has a lot of copper dissolved in it.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

flat spot
World Chat Champion



Joined: 29 Aug 2003
Karma :

PostPosted: 22:39 - 04 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got my own darkroom. You'll have to decide whether you're going to be happy just doing B+W or you want to do colour.

I personally don't do the developing and get all my pics on slides. I only do colour and it's bloody difficult to get it right. Basically it's very expensive to do colour as there is a lot of testing to do before you get the correct settings for the final print. Worth a thought.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
Karma :

PostPosted: 23:00 - 04 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

The chemicals do cause the grains to clump together though. Through a focus finder the grains are fairly clear.

All the best

Keith
____________________
Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

LustyLew
World Chat Champion



Joined: 19 Apr 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 23:11 - 04 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, it would only be B&W. I used to enjoy doing it before. I think I'll probably keep an eye open on eBay for all the kit.

David Bailey, I am not. I'm more of a Julia Margaret Cameron. Wink
____________________
Like a Yorkie - I'm not for the girls Wink
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

Silver
World Chat Champion



Joined: 03 Oct 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 23:15 - 04 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

LH-ER5 wrote:
G, when is the next BEMSEE at Brands? I'll have to see if I can get some time to take you up on that. I was looking at getting some action shots!


Last weekend in July I believe.

I haven't read everyone's responses, but bear in mind the costs involved with film. Hassle aside, you have the outlay for the film. The processing too, if you don't do it yourself. At the qualifying day at Brands BSB the other week I took 1200 pictures in about three hours. I was able to blast away, muck about settings, view the results on the spot, all without it costing a penny. To be honest, if dSLRs didn't exist I wouldn't even be bothering. I'm generally impatient and I cannot imagine taking several hundred shots during a race, sorting the pictures several days later and then discovering that my settings were off and they were all useless! Evil or Very Mad
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

LustyLew
World Chat Champion



Joined: 19 Apr 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 23:44 - 04 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm that is a good point. I guess I could pickup a cheap SLR to start with while I save for a dSLR. Get the best of both.

I guess I'm a bit of a traditionalist as it's what I worked with before. I've only ever had two digital cameras before and I just dont seem to get on with them. Perhaps it's all the different settings that you get that just seem a bit daunting.
____________________
Like a Yorkie - I'm not for the girls Wink
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
Karma :

PostPosted: 23:50 - 04 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

If you buy a dSLR then many of the settings that matter are the same as a film SLR.

If you are tempted to get a film camera for now then choose one which you can then use the lenses, etc, when you upgrade.

Decent film SLRs are dirt cheap these days on Ebay, etc. For example you should be able to get a Canon Eos 5 for around £100 in good condition (5fps, good autofocus, allows full manual control). You could also pick up an early dSLR for not that much money. You should be able to get a Canon D30 for £200~£250 (seen them sold by camera shops with a warrenty within that price range).

All the best

Keith
____________________
Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

Silver
World Chat Champion



Joined: 03 Oct 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 23:55 - 04 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

LH-ER5 wrote:
I guess I'm a bit of a traditionalist as it's what I worked with before. I've only ever had two digital cameras before and I just dont seem to get on with them. Perhaps it's all the different settings that you get that just seem a bit daunting.


A decent dSLR is nothing like your normal digital compact camera. I have a fairly decent Canon IXUS but the results from it for sport are poor at best - it's not designed for it. The shutter lag is too long, the settings are difficult/slow to change on the spot, the zoom range is crap and the lens is just not up to fast shooting. If you've tried using something similar, don't assume that a digital SLR will be the same - they're worlds apart.

Having said that, if you do get a film SLR and then get a dSLR later at least you'll be able to use the same lenses (generally speaking) so it'd hardly be a wasted investment. Film SLRs seem very cheap nowadays too (in comparison)!
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

LustyLew
World Chat Champion



Joined: 19 Apr 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 00:06 - 05 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I will have a litte moer of a think before rushing into anything. On a plus, I've just had a Pentax MZ-50 plonked in my lap (cheers dad!). So I'll get out and have a play this weekend.

Very Happy Thumbs Up
____________________
Like a Yorkie - I'm not for the girls Wink
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

Annabella
Like a person, only smaller



Joined: 03 Feb 2002
Karma :

PostPosted: 11:50 - 05 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

My dad has a dark room set up in his attic.

It's fantastic for blowing up photos and black and white.

There's something so much more 'pure' about real photography over digital (I'm sure Jon will disagree with me Wink ). Much more satisfaction obtained from manipulating an image manually.

The biggest downside of the dark room is that you really need to have a lot of photos to print and films to develop to make the most of it. We always seem to have a lot of expensive chemicals left over and going off... Confused
____________________
Avast! Pirates ahoy!
I did Cadwell! Very Happy
www.bikepics.com/members/bella
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website You must be logged in to rate posts

LustyLew
World Chat Champion



Joined: 19 Apr 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 16:57 - 05 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hiya guys, keep the info coming! Very Happy

If I have a manual focus SLR, then upgrade to digital in a few months/years, I guess they'll still be compatible. Just need to focus!

Just glad it's lighter in the evenings, can enjoy the light a little more!
____________________
Like a Yorkie - I'm not for the girls Wink
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

IronMaiden
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 15 Nov 2005
Karma :

PostPosted: 17:51 - 05 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can turn any room into a dark room if you surround a normal light bulb with a piece of Rubylith film. (It should not actually touch the bulb.) It can also be used on windows if you don't have blackout blinds. It blocks out UV light only.

I turn my whole workshop into a dark room using this method for exposing screens for screen-printing on T-shirts. Razz Thumbs Up
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts
Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 18 years, 27 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
  Display posts from previous:   
This page may contain affiliate links, which means we may earn a small commission if a visitor clicks through and makes a purchase. By clicking on an affiliate link, you accept that third-party cookies will be set.

Post new topic   Reply to topic    Bike Chat Forums Index -> Dear Auntie BCF... All times are GMT + 1 Hour
Goto page 1, 2  Next
Page 1 of 2

 
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You cannot download files in this forum

Read the Terms of Use! - Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group
 

Debug Mode: ON - Server: birks (www) - Page Generation Time: 0.18 Sec - Server Load: 0.69 - MySQL Queries: 17 - Page Size: 148.02 Kb