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'02 Toyota Yaris (Red) - Repairing Scratches?

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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 22:03 - 10 Apr 2006    Post subject: '02 Toyota Yaris (Red) - Repairing Scratches? Reply with quote

Hi,

Girlfriend has minorly (is that a word?) scratched the paint on the front wing/bumper of her new car.

I was just wondering what the best way of repairing the damage would be? She has strips of red tape that were given to her with the car by the dealer, but I'm reluctant to use them...

I'm uploading pics of the damage, can someone tell me what I should do please?

There's no damage to the plastic/metal underneath, it just looks like the paint has chipped off.
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Phil_G
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PostPosted: 22:07 - 10 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hiya mate


Get a good scratch removing polish and I think the marks in the first pic could well come out,

second pic I think would need painting up to get rid of them properly. For marks like that, Ive used one of those mobile painting fellas in the past and theyve done a bob on job ..

Good luck!

Phil
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 22:07 - 10 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi mate,

Any idea how much it will cost?

I don't want to use anything like TCut, it's utter cock.

Thanks,

Toby
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Phil_G
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PostPosted: 22:22 - 10 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Toby R wrote:
Hi mate,

Any idea how much it will cost?

I don't want to use anything like TCut, it's utter cock.

Thanks,

Toby


I bought a tube of something called "safecut" or similar about 3 years ago and Im still using it now - its quite good too Smile

With regards to the cost tho its a case of:

Pass - stick your head through the door at halfords or see if you can blag a bit of t cut or something off someone else - so then it wont offend you as much as youve not paid for it Laughing
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 22:24 - 10 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Problem with TCut is that it'll ruin the paintwork anyway..

Need a better solution Sad
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Phil_G
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PostPosted: 22:30 - 10 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Only if you use it incorrectly.

You need to make sure the panel is cool to the touch and clean. then apply the T cut lightly and leave to dry quickly then buff off lightly. IF youre worried, then use hte metallic (burgundy bottle) T-cut which seems a lot less abrasive than the traditional red bottle t-cut

Dont rub like billy-o and go on at the same spot for ages and you should be fine.

Oh, and don't forget to give the area a good polish with a good quality wax after Thumbs Up
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Rookie
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PostPosted: 22:30 - 10 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

The first ones, just try giving them a proper buffing with a polishing cloth.

Second one, it's respray/touch up time. If you do it well, the touch up won't be noticeable. But you have to be confident to do it well.
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 02:02 - 11 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try some Mequiars ScratchX first...
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 09:10 - 11 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Rookie/ZRX..

I'll attack the first one with ScratchX...

Think the second one needs sanding down with 1200 grit and repairing, don't have a compressor though.
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 09:54 - 11 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

God dammit... I'm tempted to buy a clay bar as well :S
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 14:46 - 11 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Toby R wrote:
Think the second one needs sanding down with 1200 grit and repairing, don't have a compressor though.

The car is red, therefore:
Drop by your local Revlon counter & buy a matching nail varnish...... see if there is a small part you can take in the shop for comparrison (filler cap cover?)
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 14:48 - 11 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will nail varnish give a decent finish?

Should I sand it down first?
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 16:12 - 11 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Toby R wrote:
Will nail varnish give a decent finish?

Should I sand it down first?

Nail varnish is a quick bodge to kinda hide the damage, but it will still be visible, just not so noticable.... Sanding it will just make it look worse.. the nail varnish is a temp thing until ya get it resprayed.... unless you're really good at touch up (not to be confused with foreplay)
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 16:45 - 11 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any idea how much a respray would cost?

It's on plastic, so as far as I know I can leave it as it is until she can get the money together to have the work done.
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edd
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PostPosted: 13:01 - 12 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah the first ones look like you could possibly polish them out, theres nothing wrong with t cut, it doesnt ruin paint, but theres more bullshit talked about it than pretty much anything else i can think of. T cut or similar could take out that light scratching, personally i would try a cutting compound (you will get this from a good motor factors, or if not a product called t cut scratch remover. The other scratch whwere you can see the plastic does definitely need respraying. Me and proximity did a yaris rear bumper that was far worse scratched and dented last year, so depending on how much skill you have you could do it yourself. Take off the bumper, sand affected area going up through the grades, making sure its smooth. Then either mask off the area at the nearest crease if possible (somwhere where the light changes), or decide to spray the whole panel. Then spray the required area with primer, do a few coats sanding with 1500 grit in between, then spray with the required colour paint, halfords should have this or a good motor factors should be able to mix it for you. Spray this in a clean environment, preferably warm. Then spray with several coats of laquer, making sure you dont get any runs (dont be over eager) After this is dry (leave 24 hours in the warm) polish the surface with cutting compound until it is very smooth, then use ordinary car polish to finish it off.

If you arent comfortable doing this then a body shop shouldnt charge too much, (over £50 is a rip)
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 14:53 - 12 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

edd wrote:
theres more bullshit talked about it than pretty much anything else i can think of.

except for the part where you gave advice about how to spray it, that was total bollocks.
First off it's a plastic bumper so just pop it off, takes less time than masking off the rest of the car.
second: Use 600 not 1500grit
third: laquer doesn't flex so it a complete waste of time on a bumper
fourth: it doesn't need primer, just a sealer where the damage is... assuming the person doing the job is even half way good at it...
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 15:13 - 12 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll just whip the bumper off and take it to a decent shop for a quote... Beats me fucking it up.

Cheers for the advice though ZRX61 etc Karma
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Phil_G
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PostPosted: 22:54 - 12 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

what about a Chips away type person?


Have used them a few times for marks similar to that with good results.

Saves the arseache of taking the bumper off etc too..
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edd
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PostPosted: 18:39 - 13 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZRX61 wrote:
First off it's a plastic bumper so just pop it off, takes less time than masking off the rest of the car.


did i not say remove the bumper, i think i did... yes i definitely did, read it.

ZRX61 wrote:
second: Use 600 not 1500grit.


fair enough i suppose depending on how rough the primer is

ZRX61 wrote:
third: laquer doesn't flex so it a complete waste of time on a bumper


presuming he would be spraying in cellulose hes probably going to need laquer, particularly if its a metallic. i dont know what youre on about with the flexing since ive laquered quite a few bumpers with no adverse effects. maybe to prevent flexing dont drive into things.

ZRX61 wrote:

fourth: it doesn't need primer, just a sealer where the damage is... assuming the person doing the job is even half way good at it...


well its going to need to be the correct colour for the spray you use, or it will look wank, and if you arent using primer then what were you sanding?
Confused
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 21:01 - 13 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

edd wrote:
fair enough i suppose depending on how rough the primer is

It doesn't matter how rough the primer is, you still don't use anything coarser than 600 on it.

edd wrote:
presuming he would be spraying in cellulose hes probably going to need laquer, particularly if its a metallic. i dont know what youre on about with the flexing since ive laquered quite a few bumpers with no adverse effects. maybe to prevent flexing dont drive into things.

In that case you've wasted your time. Cellulose is crap to start with, it's even worse on plastic that flex.

edd wrote:
well its going to need to be the correct colour for the spray you use, or it will look wank, and if you arent using primer then what were you sanding?

You sand the original finish & the seal it (DP49LF, DP90 etc) to prevent bleed thru. Once it's sealed theres no need to sand that, or the BC because it should be smooth enough before you seal it.
If you have to sand the BC then you fucked up, royally.
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plugger147
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PostPosted: 21:15 - 13 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

cellulose isn't that bad and is much better than the shit they put on modern cars for polishing out scratches and bird shite stains,I'm with you on the 600 grit though the only time i've used 1500 has been with soap before polishing.

personally i'd buy a touch up pen (they are only a few quid) touch it in leave to dry for an hour or two then polish back with a very light compound, then if I wasn't happy I'd think about painting especaily if she might do it again. Laughing
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edd
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PostPosted: 02:07 - 14 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZRX61 wrote:

It doesn't matter how rough the primer is, you still don't use anything coarser than 600 on it.


well i said use 1500 in the first place which is finer (bigger number = less coarse) but as ive said i probably misjudged that

ZRX61 wrote:

In that case you've wasted your time. Cellulose is crap to start with, it's even worse on plastic that flex.


can i ask how you propose that someone without any spraying equipment is going to spray in 2 pack paint? (really you need a decent compressor, an air fed mask, a spray gun) I sometimes spray 2 pack and sometimes cellulose tbh i dont think this job warrants 2 pack, cellulose would be fine depending on the quality of the paint, especially since its such a small affected area

ZRX61 wrote:

You sand the original finish & the seal it (DP49LF, DP90 etc) to prevent bleed thru. Once it's sealed theres no need to sand that, or the BC because it should be smooth enough before you seal it.
If you have to sand the BC then you fucked up, royally.


i know how sealer works, what im saying is if the BC is worn through from the scraping, you would be better off using primer as it affects the final colour of the paint.

btw ZRX61, I dont doubt that youre probably a better painter than me, im not a pro, but i do my best and i do paint quite a lot of bits of cars, mainly due to my dad's job as a used car dealer. Im not trying to start a flame war, and I understand that maybe cellulose is not the best paint etc. But at the end of the day its quite a small mark, and I was trying to help TobyR out rather than write a book on pro paint techniques.
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 03:45 - 14 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

edd wrote:
well i said use 1500 in the first place which is finer (bigger number = less coarse) but as ive said i probably misjudged that

Only timer I use anything finer than 1000 is blocking out CC prior to buffing.


edd wrote:
can i ask how you propose that someone without any spraying equipment is going to spray in 2 pack paint?

Rent it, some places will remt an entire spray booth etc by the day. Dunno the cost in the UK but around here it's about $200/day & you can do an entire car in 2 half days (primer first time, then sealer/BC/CC the second time).

edd wrote:
i know how sealer works, what im saying is if the BC is worn through from the scraping, you would be better off using primer as it affects the final colour of the paint.

But sealer goes over the primer anyway so it's a moot point, & sealer comes in different colours or can be tinted.


edd wrote:
I understand that maybe cellulose is not the best paint etc.

Exactly, it won't match the rest of the car which is BC/CC

edd wrote:
But at the end of the day its quite a small mark, and I was trying to help TobyR out rather than write a book on pro paint techniques.

Thats why I suggested he get some nail varnish Smile
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 03:55 - 14 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick fix:

If you can find a nail varnish that matches (& you should, most of it is red...) AND those scratches have defined edges it will possible to fill them with the NV & build it up so that it's higher than the surrounding paint. Then block it down with 1200-1500 to level it you might be able to hide the scratches completely. then just buff it out... give it a try anyway, nothing to loose..
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