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Coughing TRX

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DukeRed
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PostPosted: 23:40 - 24 Nov 2005    Post subject: Coughing TRX Reply with quote

When going along at constant speed it coughs, not backfiring more of a splutter, not continuously but sort of often but sporadic.

Wasn't starting so well so got new plugs, now the mechanic said before I had plugs that went further down the hole but the new ones where slightly higher so wouldn't flood so easy Confused . Could that be it?
Also had a scottoiler fitted to one of the vacuum tubes, looks ok to me but again might be that. I've heard the emulsion tubes wear out on TRX's however I don't even know what they are.
It's always been a bit dodgy but it feels worse than before, jetting maybe?

Any ideas?
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Bezzer
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PostPosted: 00:12 - 25 Nov 2005    Post subject: Re: Coughing TRX Reply with quote

Quote:
Wasn't starting so well so got new plugs, now the mechanic said before I had plugs that went further down the hole but the new ones where slightly higher so wouldn't flood so easy .

He's a proper mechanic??, or did you mishear him.??? Confused
Each engine has an optimum plug reach, if the plug is too long the threads are exposed inside the combustion chamber, it runs a lot hotter and the exposed threads can carbon up making it very hard to remove the plug. If the reach is too short then you don't get the proper burn and also the lower internal threads of the plug hole carbon up making it very difficult to put a plug in of the correct reach in afterwards. That's also ignoring the fact that an extra long plug could also contact the piston head. Shocked You should be using the manufacturers recommended plug or it's alternative on a standard bike full stop.

Shouldn't think the Scottoiler pipe is causing any of the problems, take it off and try it without for a run just to make sure then that's another thing you can discount.

Emulsion tubes are in the carbs they can wear and cause problems, some are more prone to it than others, dunno about TRX's.

If it always been a bit dodgy as you say, start off by putting the PROPER plugs in then go from there, sticking it on a dyno would be helpful and will show up any fuelling problems.
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DukeRed
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PostPosted: 00:22 - 25 Nov 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Basically there the same plug number DPR8EA but the ones I had in before had an extra last initial, said the spark was further down for better combustion while the ones he put in where standard ones.

Does that make any sense?
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Bezzer
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PostPosted: 00:49 - 25 Nov 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not really, the reach length code is the "E" part of your number E=19mm so would have been the same on both plugs, if it's a number after the dash that refers to the gap, dunno what it means if it's a letter, which it can be on bike plugs.
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Bezzer
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PostPosted: 00:56 - 25 Nov 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just so you know -
D=12mm thread..
P=A Projected Insulator type plug..
R=Resistor type..
8= heat range value (2 is Hot-10 is cold)..
E=19mm reach..
A=Firing End construction type.
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mchaggis
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PostPosted: 01:19 - 25 Nov 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

You learn something new every day. Thumbs Up

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DukeRed
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PostPosted: 01:20 - 25 Nov 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll ring him tomoz and check.
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 15:58 - 02 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

DukeRed wrote:
I'll ring him tomoz and check.


Sorry to bump up a post but I presume you're thinking of DPR8EA-9.

The 9 part is the preset gap the plug is shipped with (0.9mm)
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instigator
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PostPosted: 16:06 - 02 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Toby R wrote:
DukeRed wrote:
I'll ring him tomoz and check.


Sorry to bump up a post but I presume you're thinking of DPR8EA-9.

The 9 part is the preset gap the plug is shipped with (0.9mm)


Seriously though tobe....what on earth was the point in bumping this? And why the feck were you reading it?? Shocked
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 16:08 - 02 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

In case he still doesn't know?

Was searching for DPR8, if you must know Wink
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