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zaknafien




Joined: 25 Mar 2002
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PostPosted: 16:34 - 11 May 2006    Post subject: Well that's fecked it. Reply with quote

When getting the last nut off the downpipes it didnt exactly go as planned,

https://www.s116377775.websitehome.co.uk/snapped2.jpg

As you can see the connecting stud has snapped, another came out with the nut.

Any idea's how I can get this snapped one out to replace it and where I could get hold of replacements?
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Barry_M2
World Chat Champion



Joined: 09 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: 16:37 - 11 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get a pair of grips on it and turn it out. Or a stud extractor if you have one.

Make sure you get a bit of WD40 on the others and clean them up, then some copperslip on them before you put the nuts back on, stop this happening again! Thumbs Up
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Jamie.
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Joined: 27 Dec 2005
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PostPosted: 17:23 - 11 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

To be honest, i'd replace all the bolts, to be sure it never happens again or whilst your driving Shocked
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zaknafien




Joined: 25 Mar 2002
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PostPosted: 17:28 - 11 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

-Jamie- wrote:
To be honest, i'd replace all the bolts, to be sure it never happens again or whilst your driving Shocked


Yeah i'd like too, no idea where to look for them or what they're called though. Confused
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Barry_M2
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Joined: 09 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: 17:31 - 11 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

They are called studs. Or rather exhaust manifold studs. Your local bike shop will get them in for you, only about 50p each or so.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 17:46 - 11 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or do what I did with my last one, go out and buy a bit of stainless steel M8 threaded bar. Cut the appropriate lengths off it to make new studs then fit with loads of copper grease and use brass nuts on them.

This way, even if they do seize, the middle of the nut should strip out before the stud snaps.

You are fortunate in that yours has snapped off quite long. You should be able to get a stud extractor on it. Give it a good soak in prenetrating oil then roast the hell out of it with a blowlamp before trying to unscrew it.
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WildGoose
White Van Man



Joined: 21 Mar 2002
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PostPosted: 21:49 - 11 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

looking to do the same with the h100 soonish, as one stud is welded in but the nut screws off ok, and the other stud has the nut welded to it, so when you undo it, it unscrews the entire stud

was it you who mentioned brass threaded bar stinkwheel at some point a while ago, or was it brass nuts?

where can you get the stainless steel threaded bar from? and what did you cut it with?

what does the M8 refer to, is it thread diameter?
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mr.z
World Chat Champion



Joined: 04 Feb 2004
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PostPosted: 22:02 - 11 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

plusgas and freeze and release are great for this sort of thing.. blowtorch too!

if you have welding gear then an old small ring spanner could be a good way arround it..
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 22:06 - 11 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

M8 = metric 8mm. Although there are different thread pitches.

All the best

Keith
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 02:51 - 12 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

-Jamie- wrote:
To be honest, i'd replace all the bolts, to be sure it never happens again or whilst your driving Shocked

Fuck that, just clean up the remaining ones before ya end up snapping the entire lot.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 13:36 - 12 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

WildGoose wrote:

was it you who mentioned brass threaded bar stinkwheel at some point a while ago, or was it brass nuts?


Brass nuts, so if they stick (which they shouldn't) forcing it SHOULD make the thread on the nut strip rather than the stud snap. Nuts are easy to replace.

Quote:
where can you get the stainless steel threaded bar from? and what did you cut it with?


I actually had some long stainless bolts lying about. I cut the heads off them with a junior hacksaw, tidied the cut end up with a file then cleaned up the thread by screwing a nut up and down a few times.

Quote:
what does the M8 refer to, is it thread diameter?


Yes, the diameter of the studs which is 8mm. Most exhaust studs are M8 but check, some smaller bikes have M6. They are usually standard pitch (so you would ask for 8mm x 1.25 or 6mm x 1.5 if you were being really specific).

Generally speaking, the capital 'M' means a 'standard pitch' thread. If you ask someone for an M8 bolt, they will automatically give you an 8mm x 1.25 unless you specify otherwise.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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the grim reaper
World Chat Champion



Joined: 29 Jun 2005
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PostPosted: 13:39 - 12 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

To get the snapped one out though, make sure you use penetrating oil, as Stinkwheel said and NOT WD40. WD40 does the square root of feck all in these circumstances, penetrating oil will do some good as it does what is said on the tin - it penetrates.

Cheers

Grim
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zaknafien




Joined: 25 Mar 2002
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PostPosted: 00:54 - 14 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

What type of stud extractor do I want? So many different types. Confused
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 09:20 - 14 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've only used this type:
https://www.reesetiresupply.com/productimages/s/sKF-287B8.jpg

They are ok, some downsides though. They grip the stud using angled metal rollers. This means you need to turn them so-far before they take hold. They also need a minimum length of stud to be showing before they will grip (say 3/4" to 1"). The more angled backwards they are (so like on motorcycle exhaust studs), the more stud they need showing to take a hold.

It did occur to me that the cam-type (see below) extractor may be more appropriate for this application but I have never tried one.
https://www.abbeypowertools.co.uk/webupload/APOWER/DRAPER/APOWERSMALL14156_408.jpg
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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bidman
Crazy Courier



Joined: 01 Oct 2005
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PostPosted: 12:04 - 14 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, on most bikes that I have worked on that have had the same problem, I have simply removed the studs using the same stud extractor as stinkwheel and replaced them with normal bolts that bolt into the head, so there is no chance of the nuts seizing on the studs etc... Just a little bit of grease on the bolts so that they don't seize up in the engine block and your sorted, Thumbs Up Dan
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