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which paint should i use?

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lee125
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PostPosted: 17:01 - 28 May 2006    Post subject: which paint should i use? Reply with quote

hi soon i will be spraying my fairing on my nsr125 and i was wanting to know which paint is the best to use.should i use cellulose paint or normal spray paint i am gonna use a compressor whith a spray gun if cellulose paint is the best to do it so which would be best to use thanks
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mr.z
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PostPosted: 18:41 - 28 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

MATT BLACK /beats stinkwheel to it..

Theres a fair few guides on here on how to paint with rattle cans and other methods so its worth doing a search.. i think allot of it is the prep work really, try and do a qick nasty job and you'll end up with a nasty result Thumbs Down
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gimpy limp
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PostPosted: 18:55 - 28 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

i've gotten really good results from using the cheap 6 quid rattle cans from places like motorworld. Even the laqcuer they do is pretty durable and easy to apply - saves all the hassle and messing with getting the compressor out (I've used 1 and a half rattle cans to do a tank in the past).

Just so long as you don't use 2 pack without an air fed suit both tins of celly with a compressor or rattle cans will be just as good imo.

I would be more concerned about where you spray it, i've done it outside and in the garage dozens of times with no problems so long as you make sure the air isn't cold (it'll run and you can get orange peel in the lacquer) and not to hot so that it drys before it hits the panel (summer you'll also get nats and lil flying things getting in the paint).

If your doing it at home put carboard all over the ground your working on and wet it with a hose an hour before you spray so that all the dust in the air drops down onto it (sounds strange but really does work).
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gimpy limp
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PostPosted: 19:01 - 28 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

preparing the panel generally speaking I would usually go 800 grit wet paper then apply the primer in 2 coats then 1200 grit (any scratches i nthe primer will usually show in the paint at that stage), then apply the paint and lacquer with no sanding in between that stage. After that you lightly wet sand the lacquer with 1200 (avoid scratches) then seal it with a coat of wax
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lee125
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PostPosted: 20:18 - 28 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the replys everyone any more info would be appreciated thanks Thumbs Up
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The Tot
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PostPosted: 23:36 - 28 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Look at my avitar. That paint job was done completely with about 40 quids worth of paint and primer. If you want to do it all black, 6 cans of 500ml gloss black simonize spraycan will do it. Prepare the FUCK out of the surfaces otherwise any impediments WILL show through. Hence, ensure that your primer is level and be very patient. GO through the grades starting with 400 to remove the lacquer up to 800. Then apply the primer - my mistake here was my spraygun got jammed and the primer sprayed all onto the fairings, so i had to thin it down and apply with a brush. More sanding down with 400-800 grit to get it even and smoothed off with 1200. Spray even, very light coats and wait to dry for about 20 mins before wet sanding it with 1200 grit. Give it another 2 coats and it should do the trick. Final layer, 1200 grit the panels down and if you want to lacquer, you may, but i found the matt finish on the simoniz very good.

Also, do not mix top coats with base coat paints as they will chemically react. I beileve standard paints are acrylic too as what the guys at Hex Holdings told me.

Good luck, do it on a sunny day.
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lee125
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PostPosted: 11:40 - 29 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Titz wrote:
Look at my avitar. That paint job was done completely with about 40 quids worth of paint and primer. If you want to do it all black, 6 cans of 500ml gloss black simonize spraycan will do it. Prepare the FUCK out of the surfaces otherwise any impediments WILL show through. Hence, ensure that your primer is level and be very patient. GO through the grades starting with 400 to remove the lacquer up to 800. Then apply the primer - my mistake here was my spraygun got jammed and the primer sprayed all onto the fairings, so i had to thin it down and apply with a brush. More sanding down with 400-800 grit to get it even and smoothed off with 1200. Spray even, very light coats and wait to dry for about 20 mins before wet sanding it with 1200 grit. Give it another 2 coats and it should do the trick. Final layer, 1200 grit the panels down and if you want to lacquer, you may, but i found the matt finish on the simoniz very good.

Also, do not mix top coats with base coat paints as they will chemically react. I beileve standard paints are acrylic too as what the guys at Hex Holdings told me.

Good luck, do it on a sunny day.

thanks for the help mate i will do it that way im wanting to spray it either red or black my avater is what i want it to look like but with some white honda nsr stickers on it Thumbs Up
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theory:PASSED! A2 test:PASSED 08/11/2006 restricted to 33bhp for 2 years
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MarkJ
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PostPosted: 12:03 - 29 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're going to use Hammerite, make sure you do many thin coats, rather than few thick ones. I did the latter on my numberplate bracket, made a right dog's dinner of it. There were drips everywhere and it took an absolute age to dry (1-2 days for a coat! only meant to be 4 hours). In the end I scraped it off with a paint scraper, and it was still sticky then! Although it did give the bracket a nice waterproof'd feeling Very Happy
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Itchy
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PostPosted: 12:08 - 29 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

oh btw if you are changing the colour (red bike avatar and matt black suggestions) don't forget to tell the DVLA , them guys are nazis in disguise and will jump at any opportunity to screw you over .
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mr.z
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PostPosted: 13:13 - 29 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Itchy wrote:
don't forget to tell the DVLA


Blimeh, and the insureance company too! painting it black will possibly put the insureance premium up too Exclamation
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lee125
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PostPosted: 13:40 - 29 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

i am gonna tell them other wise if i crash the insurance company wont pay out Thumbs Up
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theory:PASSED! A2 test:PASSED 08/11/2006 restricted to 33bhp for 2 years
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Cillit-BANG
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PostPosted: 18:09 - 29 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Especially as black or red would be considered a performance enhancing mod.
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Jack_Cheese
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PostPosted: 19:29 - 29 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

mr.z wrote:
Itchy wrote:
don't forget to tell the DVLA


Blimeh, and the insureance company too! painting it black will possibly put the insureance premium up too Exclamation


What if it gets stolen and abandoned without the numberplate on it? It could lead to having to pay the recovery fee as they cannot identify it, and the police don't bother looking for a VIN.

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edd
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PostPosted: 21:00 - 29 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

2 pack paint gives a lovely deep shine but its lethal stuff, cellulose rattle cans can actually give a half decent finish regardless of wwhat some purists (particularly americans) may tell you. Be careful on the tank though. Cellulose laquer gets raped by fuel.

Since when have insurance companies asked the colour of your bike? they never do.....
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Cillit-BANG
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PostPosted: 22:56 - 29 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Since when have insurance companies asked the colour of your bike? they never do


If the bike's description doesn't match that of the V5, there could be questions asked if it comes to making a claim. It's very unlikely but insurance companies will use anything to weasle out of payments.
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 00:46 - 30 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Titz wrote:
Look at my avitar. That paint job was done completely with about 40 quids worth of paint and primer. If you want to do it all black, 6 cans of 500ml gloss black simonize spraycan will do it. Prepare the FUCK out of the surfaces otherwise any impediments WILL show through. Hence, ensure that your primer is level and be very patient. GO through the grades starting with 400 to remove the lacquer up to 800. Then apply the primer - my mistake here was my spraygun got jammed and the primer sprayed all onto the fairings, so i had to thin it down and apply with a brush. More sanding down with 400-800 grit to get it even and smoothed off with 1200. Spray even, very light coats and wait to dry for about 20 mins before wet sanding it with 1200 grit. Give it another 2 coats and it should do the trick. Final layer, 1200 grit the panels down and if you want to lacquer, you may, but i found the matt finish on the simoniz very good.

Also, do not mix top coats with base coat paints as they will chemically react. I beileve standard paints are acrylic too as what the guys at Hex Holdings told me.

Good luck, do it on a sunny day.


I'm impressed, I don't think I've ever seen so much incorrect advice in one post before. Rolling Eyes I think you deserve a bonus point for misusing "impediments" in such style tho.
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The Tot
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PostPosted: 01:51 - 30 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mate you got to appreciate that none of us have the the ability to hire out a paint shop to do the work ourselves and i've seen decent results, i aint saying professional, but decent home attempts based on the advice given to me. If you're expecting spectacular results, by all means take your bike to the nearest professional shop, but here in the UK, decent ones are few and far between. Put short, none of us are that bothered. If anybody wants to improve the looks of the bike for a fraction of the price, then by all means just do what i did. It'll hurt you less if you bin your bike knowing you only spent 40 quid on painting and repairing as opposed to a mint 200 quid + job at your local auto body repair shop. We all know you're the biz when it comes to painting and spraying, but frankly, we'll need more practical and plausible options to suit our budget. Sorry if it sounds harsh, but i have read most of your posts regarding preparation and respraying and they are indeed helpful, but there are obviously other ways.
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 14:54 - 30 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're WAY off on the grade of paper you told him to use...& you don't sand the paint between the colour coat & the clear unless you made a complete balls up of applying it.
If you sanded with 1200 befiore the final layers then you will be able to peel the paint off in sheets...
If there's nothing wrong with the original paint (except the color)theres no need for any primer, just a coat of sealer to prevent bleed-thru.
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ram_doom
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PostPosted: 15:01 - 30 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

sorry for slightly hi-jacking the thread, but should carbon fibre be prepared the same way as plastic? Want to paint my battered hugger Wink
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lee125
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PostPosted: 17:16 - 30 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

if i use spray cans will it scratch easily or should i put alot of layers on?
____________________
cbt passed Smile 01/07/2006 bike:92 dt 125 and 96 honda cr 250
theory:PASSED! A2 test:PASSED 08/11/2006 restricted to 33bhp for 2 years
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lee125
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PostPosted: 17:25 - 30 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZRX61 wrote:
Titz wrote:
Look at my avitar. That paint job was done completely with about 40 quids worth of paint and primer. If you want to do it all black, 6 cans of 500ml gloss black simonize spraycan will do it. Prepare the FUCK out of the surfaces otherwise any impediments WILL show through. Hence, ensure that your primer is level and be very patient. GO through the grades starting with 400 to remove the lacquer up to 800. Then apply the primer - my mistake here was my spraygun got jammed and the primer sprayed all onto the fairings, so i had to thin it down and apply with a brush. More sanding down with 400-800 grit to get it even and smoothed off with 1200. Spray even, very light coats and wait to dry for about 20 mins before wet sanding it with 1200 grit. Give it another 2 coats and it should do the trick. Final layer, 1200 grit the panels down and if you want to lacquer, you may, but i found the matt finish on the simoniz very good.

Also, do not mix top coats with base coat paints as they will chemically react. I beileve standard paints are acrylic too as what the guys at Hex Holdings told me.

Good luck, do it on a sunny day.


I'm impressed, I don't think I've ever seen so much incorrect advice in one post before. Rolling Eyes I think you deserve a bonus point for misusing "impediments" in such style tho.

if that is the wrong way to do it could you tell me the better way thanks Thumbs Up
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cbt passed Smile 01/07/2006 bike:92 dt 125 and 96 honda cr 250
theory:PASSED! A2 test:PASSED 08/11/2006 restricted to 33bhp for 2 years
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 17:36 - 30 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

lee125 wrote:
if i use spray cans will it scratch easily or should i put alot of layers on?

Rattlecan paint sets up like glass & chips very easily. It doesn't really matter how much you put on, it's crap.

lee125 wrote:
if that is the wrong way to do it could you tell me the better way thanks Thumbs Up

"search"
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lee125
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PostPosted: 17:48 - 30 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
lee125 wrote:
if that is the wrong way to do it could you tell me the better way thanks

"search"

cant find anything you got a link to a page explaining everything Thumbs Up
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bidman
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PostPosted: 18:14 - 30 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, use 2 pack spray. Little bit dangerous but gives superb results. I have sprayed dozens of bikes with the stuff with just a cartridge mask, Thumbs Up Dan
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 15:25 - 31 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

bidman wrote:
Little bit dangerous

The word you're looking for is "lethal"

bidman wrote:
just a cartridge mask,

Which won't filter out the cyanide, which is also absorbed via the eardrums & eyes... & don't forget the effect is culmulative so one day you're fine & the next time you spray it you get pounding chest pains... at which point you'l not be able to get near the stuff ever again..

Rolling Eyes
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