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DIY Clutch window

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Klause
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PostPosted: 14:44 - 25 May 2006    Post subject: DIY Clutch window Reply with quote

Making a clutch window for my Monster
Been toying the idea for a while and came across a clutch cover at BMF show for £20 bargin, so who cares if it fu*ks up Thumbs Up.

I asked for advice in the workshop section for what window material to use and lexan seemed to be the thing to use. Ordered an a4-a3 ish sized sheet 5mm thick for £9.

The sheet arrived today. So armed with some new drill bits and a dremel I set off...

Drilled holes all the way around the inside of the circle, then took the dremel and cut inbetween the gaps, went through 4 bloody cutting discs!
https://img207.imageshack.us/img207/7836/dscf16334dt.jpg

Spent a while filing it all even but I was doing this all by free hand so not perfect.

Doesn't look to bad now...
https://img136.imageshack.us/img136/9273/dscf163618ye.jpg

Just cutting the lexan now and shall hopefully have pictures of it finished later.
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T1z3R
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PostPosted: 16:08 - 25 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

like windows in PC cases but better Thumbs Up Cool
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Klause
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PostPosted: 16:29 - 25 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe I should fit LED's inside the engine just like PC's... nah lol.

Having trouble sealing the window now, off halfords to find some better sealing gluey stuff.
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Klause
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PostPosted: 23:46 - 25 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pants... I put the lexan in and used some sealant and some chemical metal in places to make a strong joint. I tested it by putting oil in the case and left it, it lasted about 1hr before it leaked. Need to find where it's leaking from and stuff more sealant in.
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Deano
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PostPosted: 00:45 - 26 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

if this turns out alrite Im tempted to try it myself
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Wave2k
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PostPosted: 12:24 - 26 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

ahhh the joy of dry clutches Laughing .
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Barry_M2
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PostPosted: 13:06 - 26 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Deano wrote:
if this turns out alrite Im tempted to try it myself


Ditto.

I'm not really interested in tarting up a bike and stuff, usually just go for performance upgrades etc...

But that, I like! Thumbs Up
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trevoriv
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PostPosted: 14:40 - 26 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it not going to be under different kinds of pressure when the engine is running though Question
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Jenks
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PostPosted: 15:59 - 26 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

That looks fairly good.

Good luck with it - As it progresses!

Keep us informed!
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Klause
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PostPosted: 21:08 - 26 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Trying to find a suitable sealing/joining compound at the moment.
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Irezumi aka Reuben
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PostPosted: 22:12 - 26 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would some form of riveting not work?
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Zimbo
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PostPosted: 22:15 - 26 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

wave2k wrote:
ahhh the joy of dry clutches Laughing .


Seconded!!! Razz

I'm a little worried about this Klause, I fear you may damage your engine, big time. This may seal for a bit, but under running conditions with the pressure and temperature fluctuations etc, plus the possibility of force being exerted accidently from the outside, chances are one day whilst riding it'll become dislodged, possibly catching in the clutch and smashing things up inside, and also allowing all the engine oil to escape and causing catastrophic engine failure.
If it were mine, I'd stop now and go back to using the solid version, if you really want a visible clutch why not buy a 900?
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Klause
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PostPosted: 23:02 - 26 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've considered all this, but after drilling and dremeling the clutch cover I would hardly say that was strong either, it was made of cheese this lexan stuff seems stronger.

Zimbo wrote:
wave2k wrote:
ahhh the joy of dry clutches Laughing .


Seconded!!! Razz

I'm a little worried about this Klause, I fear you may damage your engine, big time. This may seal for a bit, but under running conditions with the pressure and temperature fluctuations etc, plus the possibility of force being exerted accidently from the outside, chances are one day whilst riding it'll become dislodged, possibly catching in the clutch and smashing things up inside, and also allowing all the engine oil to escape and causing catastrophic engine failure.
If it were mine, I'd stop now and go back to using the solid version, if you really want a visible clutch why not buy a 900?

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McJamweasel
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PostPosted: 23:12 - 26 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Klause wrote:
I've considered all this, but after drilling and dremeling the clutch cover I would hardly say that was strong either, it was made of cheese this lexan stuff seems stronger.


Maybe so, but is the join/seal going to be stronger?
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Zimbo
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PostPosted: 00:01 - 27 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's what I meant, I wasn't suggesting the Lexan would break (unless mashed up in the engine) but it won't take a lot to break the seal, which may have (indeed, probably would have)catastrophic results.
If you're doing 70 or 80 mph and the seal goes, you're unlikely to notice the oil disappearing, you probably won't see the oil light immediately either, the first you're likely to know about it is a sudden and dramatic loss of power as the engine self destructs about 20 seconds later. It could easily have you off (engine sieze plus rear wheel covered in oil = potential very nasty accident) and you're looking at a scrap engine even if you don't come off, throw the whole thing away and buy a new one.
It's your bike of course, but personally I'd say the risks are far too high to justify the project.
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DaveH
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PostPosted: 00:13 - 27 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the lexan is cut to the full diameter of drilled face of the clucth cover, not just slightly bigger than the hole, it looks as though there will be enough room for a couple of bolts - with the heads on the inside and the nuts loctited on?

good luck Thumbs Up

BTW how much clearance is there between the clutch and the housing?
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Deano
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PostPosted: 13:10 - 27 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

DaveHogg wrote:
If the lexan is cut to the full diameter of drilled face of the clucth cover, not just slightly bigger than the hole, it looks as though there will be enough room for a couple of bolts - with the heads on the inside and the nuts loctited on?

good luck Thumbs Up

BTW how much clearance is there between the clutch and the housing?

pop rivets might be better
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DaveH
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PostPosted: 00:58 - 28 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Deano wrote:
DaveHogg wrote:
If the lexan is cut to the full diameter of drilled face of the clucth cover, not just slightly bigger than the hole, it looks as though there will be enough room for a couple of bolts - with the heads on the inside and the nuts loctited on?

good luck Thumbs Up

BTW how much clearance is there between the clutch and the housing?

pop rivets might be better
Thumbs Up definitely!
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senna_f4
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PostPosted: 01:32 - 28 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry guys, nice project, but I fear it may be more complicated.
Why?
1. Aluminium expands more than lexan (plastic)
2. Rigid joint

1+2 = warm up bike and pop goes your joint or lexan or case.

The aluminium will case will grow big, so the joint must be able to slide laterally, that is a movement along the face of the lexan window.

Hope it helps
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Zimbo
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PostPosted: 10:39 - 28 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

DaveHogg wrote:

pop rivets might be better Thumbs Up definitely!


Don't forget it's still got to seal the oil in as well! Pop rivets don't seal, at all.

I'm sorry Klause but I'm afraid you've ruined a good clutch cover for nothing, can't see this working, and there's a fairly high risk of you turning your bike engine into worthless scrap. As I said, it's your bike, but in my view it's not worth it, no way.
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McGee
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PostPosted: 14:35 - 28 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dont listen to the negative people, give it a go Thumbs Up


And zimbo its a dry clutch Wink
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Its pronounced Jixxer!
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Zimbo
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PostPosted: 15:38 - 28 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

McGee wrote:
Dont listen to the negative people, give it a go Thumbs Up


And zimbo its a dry clutch Wink


er, no mate, it isn't!

Duacti air cooled 600s, 620s, 695s, 750s and 800s all have wet clutches, it's only the 900 and 1000cc versions that have dry clutches (apart from a small batch of early 750s).
Klause has a 600, with a wet clutch.
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McGee
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PostPosted: 17:13 - 28 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually he done an engine transplant if im right cant remember what to though Laughing think its a 750 ?
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Its pronounced Jixxer!
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Zimbo
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PostPosted: 18:15 - 28 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Still a wet clutch though. The cover shown in the pics is for a wet clutch engine, the dry clutch engine casing is completely different.
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Klause
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PostPosted: 13:51 - 29 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Zimbo wrote:
DaveHogg wrote:

pop rivets might be better Thumbs Up definitely!


Don't forget it's still got to seal the oil in as well! Pop rivets don't seal, at all.

I'm sorry Klause but I'm afraid you've ruined a good clutch cover for nothing, can't see this working, and there's a fairly high risk of you turning your bike engine into worthless scrap. As I said, it's your bike, but in my view it's not worth it, no way.


Hardly, loads of people have clutch windows, don't see them having much problems. Believe me I'm testing this before I use it, some of my tests envolve hitting it with a hammer and still hasn't come loose. It's strong enough but I'm not happy with the sealing.

I'm taking my time making this havn't touched it this weekend mostly being round mates drinking Thumbs Up .

And yes It is a wet clutch but no it's not a 600 Wink .
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