Help buying a ZX6R

[Alfredo]

Hello all, I hope you can help. I'm going to see a ZX6R tonight with a view to buying it, the bike's only local to me so I've not got to travel far at all. I've only just passed my test and have never owned a bike before, so I'm taking a mate with me who knows his stuff.

However, I'm a little unsure as to what the bike actually is. The owner has told me it's a 2002 ZX6R J2 636, but from what I know the J2 and the 636 are different models - the 636 is A1P, according to the Parker's Guide. Parker's does say however that both the J2 and 636 A1P were produced in 2002.

As I said I'm seeing the bike tonight, but from the photograph I don't think the bike has a 636 sticker. Are there any other visual differences between the J2 and 636? What's the best way of finding out what model the bike actually is? Can I trust the log book and vehicle registration document to tell me, or is it best to give Kawasaki a call? Where are the serial numbers printed on the bike?

Thanks.

Alfredo

[KiMo]

The J2 is a 600. The A1, B1 onwards have all been 636 unless they are rr's in which case they are 600's.

The A1 was brought out in 2002. But there could have been some J2s still kicking about that were late registered.

Oh and get the bike Hpi'd.

Show us the piccies that you have and we will tell you what model it is.
____________________
As nutty as a nutty thing.

[Alfredo]

Thanks Mrs Mack, you're a star. I've tried to insert a pic of the bike but unfortunately as I'm a techno-spanner I can't do it; I'll keep trying.

Thanks.

[extreme3d]

Copy the link to the advert instead. Failing that right click on the picture in the website and go to properties. Highlight the picture url - it can be quite long so make sure you scroll down and have got it all. Paste that into the post making window on the forum and highlight it again. Above the window you will see some buttons, click on the one saying 'IMG'. This will add [img] to the front and [/img] to the rear. Click preview and it will be up on the post!

(spell check doesn't work well with a picture link so make sure the spelling is good before checking or temporarily cut it out whilst waiting)

A zx6r is quite a leap if you've never owned a bike before so be carefull. It's also fully faired so be warned if you drop it (and you WILL if it's your first bike) you will do at least £1500 of damage there and then. To save this fit crash bungs from day one. R&G are the best, this link will take you direct to their zx6r section.

Look closely at the fairings. Look for scuffs and cracks first. Walk away if it has any as the zx6r is a very common bike and there are loads out there. Certainly walk away if it has even the smallest scuff to the frame. Inspect each and every faring fairing mounting point. If it's been dropped or crashed here is where the cracks will be. Also check panel aligntment - have the fairing mounts been pushed in at all?

Has it got a race can fitted? Might be a nice touch, but ask to see the original (make sure you get that to when you buy the bike as you might need it come MOT time). If the orginal is missing or badly scuffed walk away. It's a sure sign the bikes been down on it's exhaust side. whilst your attention is focused on the exhasut give the downpipes a once over. Look for rust. I wouldn't worry about a small amount of surface rust, but any rot and it will be an expensive problem later. Check where they join the engine. If the bolts are nice and clean (the front of the engine to) then it's been carefully looked after and the owners not just treated it like a car and only washing the paintwork

Check the normal stuff:

Engine idles ok (it will be a little rough until warmed)
No rattles
Gears change smoothly
Fork seals ok
Brake pads got enough material left
Tyres - not old and cracked. Check the rims - lots of paint flaking and sratches is a sure sign the bikes had lots of trackside tyre changes - i.e. it's been ragged
all lights work - often overlooked but the last thing you want is dodgy wiring
Look closely for corrosion on the frame. Where the pillion foot pegs join the rear subframe is an area often missed when cleaning.
The rear shock. There is just no excuse for a corroded rear shock. If it's rusty walk away - aside from looking gastly it's a sign of a careless owner who didn't even bother to fit a hugger.
Compare the frame and engine numbers closely to the V5 AND MOT if it has one. If the v5 is not present then certainly don't even think about buying it

So give it a good check over and don't be scared to walk away if you are not happy. There are plenty more bikes out there. Don't forget to haggle. Worn tyres for example will need replacing - so ask for some money knocked off.

[trevoriv]

This is a 636 A1P minus a few decals on the right hand side, you can see them on the left though The 636s from 02/03 will need to be started on the choke so dont worry about that, they tend to stall under around 40-45oC engine temp. Cluth 'rattle' in neutral should be audible but not louder than the rest of the engine noise. Extreme3d - check for corrosion?!?! Its a Kawasaki there'll be loads watch for signs of rust around the clock frame, its not a huge problem but if theres no rust there you know its been a dry weather bike

https://www.trevoriv.co.uk/ninjaa.jpg
https://www.trevoriv.co.uk/ninjab.jpg
https://www.trevoriv.co.uk/ninjac.jpg

[extreme3d]

[beans]

If its a 636 it wont have a H-Frame also the front brake fluid reservoir is different some how from the 600 but i dont know how!!

Like mentioned above it should have 636 stickers on it unless they have been taken off.
____________________
Yamaha FS1E- Suzuki RG 125 - Honda CB-1- Ducati Monster - Kawasaki ZX6-R F1- Kawasaki ZX6-R G1- 2003 Yamaha R6

[Cillit-BANG]

What sort of price is it?

[trevoriv]

OMFG just noticed my bike is sexy - think ill go clean it

[APNess]

If it's needed 'em doing, make sure the valve clearances have been done. My friend just shelled out £620 on his '98 model ZX6r for various bits doing, wheels coated, brakes, etc. Rode it away from the garage, 2 mile down the road 'bang' tinkle.

Valve hit piston - unconnected to work garage did.

Another £500 to sort out with using 2nd hand parts (I did suggest him, me n Haynes have a crack at sorting out, but the garage reckon it'll be done either tommorrow, or Monday, when the best we could have done is a couple of weeks down to work commitments).

So, £1120 in a week

Opinions seem to vary on when valve clearances should be checked. It's a cam cover off job, so all sorts of bits to get out the way, and will cost someone between £150-£200 to check, so might be missed if someone is doing home servicing and can't be bothered...

Just a heads up/be careful with what you buy - plenty of bikes out there, especially with the weather being so crap this month.

Might be better off looking at a jetski instead :S

[Alfredo]

Hi all. Thanks for your advice and I've decided to avoid this bike. I did go to see it and it looked nice, but: it was a 636 according to the V5 but didn't have the 636 stickers on the fairing; it had a black, not silver frame; it was cheap (£2,700 for a 2002 636) but it had been advertised for 3/4 months with no interest.

Anyway, I hope to have a (good!) ZX6R soon.

Thanks again,

Al

p.s. Trevoriv, your bike looks the business mate.

[dodsi]

I am selling a J1 ZX6R. Check the link in my sig.

Genuine bike well looked after, very clean and never ever let me down.

All the history and the receipts.

Plenty of people on this forum have either seen it or ridden it (extreme3d definatly has plenty of times) and will tell you its a lovely bike.