Running In [Read many different Methods and confused] ...

[alien.46.uk]

Hi there, i'll be at the stage of the first run tomorow with my new top end [yes im going to try the slightly dodgey Barrel ], but I've searched and read many methods listed on here and lots of methods through google ...

But whats people opinion on here?

I've found this a good read and might try this method:

https://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


Let me know ...


Luke.
____________________
2007 Kawasaki ZX10R :: 1998 Kawasaki ZX-9R - SOLD
1998 Yamaha FZS600 Fazer - SOLD :: 1994 Aprilia Pegaso 125 - SOLD

[0ddball]

Don't bother with that method for a 2 stroke engine.

[cagiva gezzer]

You're not running that mashed head are you?

Two stroke running in-

RUNNING-IN RECOMMENDATIONS.
Road Bikes

RS125 Mito 125 KMX125 NSR125 TZR125 ETC

The running-in of the engine is essential to ensure its duration and correct functioning.

If possible, drive on hilly roads and/or roads with many bends, so that the engine can undergo a more effective running-in. During running-in use variable changes in speed in this way the components are first "loaded" and then "relieved" and the engine parts can thus cool down.

Even though it is important to stress the engine components during running-in, take care not to exceed 6000 rpm for the 1st 100km Keep to the following indications.

1: Start engine and let run at idle until the engine is thoroughly warmed up max 5 minutes

2: Stop and let the engine cool completely

3: Start the engine and ride the bike for 10-15 minutes at moderate speed NEVER HARD ACCELERATION.

4: Stop and let the engine cool completely.

5: Check the coolant level and re-torque the cylinder head bolts.

6: Start the engine and ride the bike for 10-15 minutes at moderate speed NEVER HARD ACCELERATION.

7: Stop and let the engine cool completely.

8: Start the engine and ride the bike for 20-30 minutes at moderate speed NEVER HARD ACCELERATION

9: Stop and let the engine cool completely

By this point you should have done 60km and the engine should just start to loosen up nicely.

10: Start the engine and ride the bike for 15-30 minutes at moderate speed, this time short burst of acceleration are acceptable but only short say 2gear to 3 gear.

11: Stop and let the engine cool completely

12: Start the engine and ride the bike for 15-30 minutes at moderate speed, this time short burst of acceleration are acceptable but only short say 2gear to 3 gear.

13: Stop and let the engine cool completely

14: Start the engine and ride the bike for 15-30 minutes at moderate speed, this time short burst of acceleration are acceptable 2gear to 4 gear.

15: Stop and let the engine cool completely

Your engine should be ready for regular use. However since recklessly high RPM will lead to rapid engine ware, take care to use the necessary skill and technique in operating the motorcycle.

Tips on running in
Do not open the throttle completely if the speed is low, both during and after the running-in.

Only after the first 1500 km (932 mi) of running-in you can expect the best performance levels from the vehicle.
Between the first 800 km (497 mi) and 1600 km (994 mi) drive more briskly, change speed and use the maximum acceleration only for a few seconds, in order to ensure better running in of the components; never exceed 9000 rpm.
After the first 1600 km (994 mi) you can expect better performance from the engine, however, without exceeding the maximum allowed [11000 rpm].

Engine maximum rpm recommended

Mileage km (mi) rpm

0-800 (497) 6000
800-1600 (497-994) 9000
over 1600 (994) 11000

However, i tend to have mine fully run in by 800KM. Maybe thats why they keep spitting bits back out...
____________________
"because one stroke isnt enough and four strokes waste two"

[alien.46.uk]

Hmm ... another method added to the pot of methods, i wish there was just one method that everyone would stick by lol !!!

Will it only loosen by 1600km, even thought its only a top end re-build?

Also, got a new [second hand] head today, its pritine except for all the carbon deposites. Bergain too at £16 instead of the Price of £70 new ...

New One:

https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a317/taazzukcb/Pegaso%20Re-Build/DSCN0082Medium.jpg



Luke.
____________________
2007 Kawasaki ZX10R :: 1998 Kawasaki ZX-9R - SOLD
1998 Yamaha FZS600 Fazer - SOLD :: 1994 Aprilia Pegaso 125 - SOLD

[cagiva gezzer]

That was a copy and paste from the main importers of Makita(sp?) stuff in the UK.

The method i use-

~Three or four heat cycles in the garage. Up to 65-70 degrees and back down to heat stress / cycle components.

~20KM at <4,000RPM

~Back into garge for a bike check over - it's normally been stripped right down, it's a whole bike check over.

20-100KM - <5,000RPM

100-200KM - <6K RPM

200-300KM - <7K RPM

300-400KM - <8K RPM

400-500KM - <9K RPM

500-600KM - <10K RPM

600-700KM - <11K RPM

700-800KM - All revs, but not held high for long.

800KM - Ready for a good thrashing.

1000KM - Pushed into the redline in higher gears.

DON'T hold it at steady revs for too long.

DON'T labour the engine.

DON'T rev it high early in the run-in period.

DO vary revs and load.

DO recheck all nuts / bolts and make sure they're torqued up to the right amount after a few KM's and a feww hundred KM's.
____________________
"because one stroke isnt enough and four strokes waste two"

[alien.46.uk]

Bloomin 'ell guvner ...

You're sure carefull about your running in. Wat's the heat cycles too, are they required?


Luke.


P.S. Mitaka
____________________
2007 Kawasaki ZX10R :: 1998 Kawasaki ZX-9R - SOLD
1998 Yamaha FZS600 Fazer - SOLD :: 1994 Aprilia Pegaso 125 - SOLD

[Paddy Blake]

Worm it up a few times to running temp and check all bolts and nuts are
tight in the garage and when you get it on the road you do not put the
engine under load like two up going up hill with low revs and in the wrong gear.Well i hope this works out well for you.

Paddy.

[Mozzer]

Well my running in got shafted.

I manegd about 180Km before my throttle cable snapped... engine kept getting stuck at 8000RPM from cold whilst replacing it (Stuck cable)...

I'd better hurry up and move on before it blows up again
____________________
1st: June 6th 2006 - Nov 6th 2006: 2001 Aprilia RS125 |2nd: Nov 12th 2006 - Present: 1991 Honda CBR400RR
Jamie Stokes wrote: it now has a memory of 512mb and is super fast

[T1z3R]

Any rebuilt or new engine has to go through a break in process. Each piece of moving metal must get to know and fit with the piece of metal it is moving against. Usually, the manufacturers put a sticker on the speedometer or tachometer telling you to take it easy for 600 miles or so. Your buddy says "If you want to run it hard, break it in hard." As you might expect, the truth is not on the right hand or the left but, in the centre.

The problem is this. All this rubbing produces heat, which can cause oil to fail, which can cause a piston to seize to a cylinder wall. On the other hand, if there is not enough rubbing, the piston rings will not seat right with the cylinder walls. If this happens the engine will not reach it's full power potential. If the only new parts are piston and rings, as in an engine rebuild, we only have to worry about heat build up from the new parts. If the entire engine is new, the heat built up is even greater, because all the parts are new.

Yes, it is true that we have much better machining and quality control on new motorcycle engines, then we did in the past but, moving parts still have to wear in. If you have better, harder metal, it will take longer then if you have poorer, softer metal. Years ago I decided to bore my BMW motorcycle to the first oversize. After a hundred miles of break-in I started to ride normally, which is to say FAST ! Well, the bike just was not running right. I re-jetted the carb and it started to run OK. Another hundred miles passed and I had to rejet again. This went on for over one thousand miles. After the last re-jetting I realized I had just put the stock jets back in ! It took better then 1100 miles for those rings to break-in. The steel used in BMW motorcycles is very hard !

On one hand, if you run the bike too easy, you run the risk of the cylinder walls glazing over and then, maybe, never seating properly. On the other hand, if you run the bike too hard, you run the risk of engine seizure. I suspect, that even if you do glaze the cylinder walls over, if your run the engine hard enough and long enough, the rings will seat. However, this may take a thousand miles, or more, to do.

So what's a biker to do ? Well, a compromise is in order. This is what I do with a freshly rebuilt engine. It will work on new engines too. On a straight, deserted road, I put the bike in second or third gear and accelerate with wide open throttle to about one or two thousand RPM BELOW red line. I then shut the throttle and coast down, in gear, to two thousand RPM or so. I then do it again. I do this about ten times. Then I ride around for a while at an easy pace. I do this several times, if possible. This seats the rings without overheating the engine.

I would continue to do this during the entire break-in period. If you are doing any freeway riding. That is, running long periods of time at a steady throttle setting. I would also add this. Shut the throttle off and then on again, very quickly, every three or four miles. This tends to draw more oil up on the bottom of the pistons, lubing and cooling them. On a freshly rebuilt engine, I like to change the oil and filter at about two hundred miles and then every thousand miles thereafter. On a totally new engine, I change the oil and filter at one hundred fifty miles, three hundred miles, six hundred miles and twelve hundred miles. After that, change the oil and filter every one thousand miles.

taken from
https://www.dansmc.com/engine_breakin.htm and is how i run in my CRM125 topend rebuild without trouble
____________________
duck my sick!

[alien.46.uk]

Right i think this is what i think im going to do:

1) Start bike, let it warm for roughly 5 mins

2) Turn off and check bolts

3)Turn on, warm up, tootle off to my local countryside

4)Accelerate nicly up to 2nd, when hitting 2nd, open the throttle fully

5)Carry on up to 3rd [But sticking 1.5k under redline]

6)Close throttle and cost down to 2k, then burst again, ten times

7)Cruise easily for a bit

8)Run as normal, but not pushing it too hard, maybe a spirt now and again

9)Once in a while close and open throttl to get the oil up ...



Does everyone think will work?

Luke.
____________________
2007 Kawasaki ZX10R :: 1998 Kawasaki ZX-9R - SOLD
1998 Yamaha FZS600 Fazer - SOLD :: 1994 Aprilia Pegaso 125 - SOLD

[cagiva gezzer]

^^^ Did you read any of what i wrote?

Heat cycles - The expansion rate of new components reduces over time. The first time they're exposed to heat they expand to a larger size than the second, third, (etc) time.

If you were to get your old piston and a new one (of the same make) and measure them at room temperature then oven bake them to X degrees the new one will show a grater expansion (% wise) than the old one.

That’s the theory behind heat cycles, the first few warming up sessions have the tightest tolerances. However, how relevant all this is depends on what you're running in respect to plated or steel bores, cast or forged pistons, European or Japanese clearances.

DON'T GO OVER 5000/6000 RPM FOR THE FIRST 100KM.
____________________
"because one stroke isnt enough and four strokes waste two"