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Servicing your drive chain IMPORTANT!

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chrish2003
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Joined: 02 Oct 2006
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PostPosted: 16:41 - 08 Oct 2006    Post subject: Servicing your drive chain IMPORTANT! Reply with quote

Hi,
After not thinking through what I had to do, to get good access to the chain I miss-takenly dropped my swing arm on my Yamaha YBR125.

I didn't really need to do this, but thought this was the best way to get the rear footpeg bracket out the way.

I discoverd that while it was propped on the centre stand, that the 9inch long 17mm retaining bolt was a "PIG" to get back into the swing arm hole!

Needles to say I struggled for over half an hour, utilising a large screwdriver insetered from the other end of the swingarm in an attempt to re-align the bolt-hole.

I eventually got it back in, but then thought to myself "I aint bloody doing datt again"
My question is this.........

Is there an easier way to clean your chain without gettin de-greasing fluid all over your rear wheel and tyre?
Thank for listening !

Chris Karma
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mchaggis
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Joined: 09 May 2004
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PostPosted: 16:47 - 08 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does the YBR have a split link chain, or an endless one? If it is a split link chain, you can just split it and clean it off the bike. Just make sure to put the clip on facing the right way. The open end should be facing the opposite direction to the chain travel.

If it's an endless chain, then you have to use the toothbrush/ cloth and paraffin approach with the chain on the bike. You'll probably get mucky paraffin all over the place if you use a toothbrush, but that's reasonably easy to clean up. Alternatively, hold the chain in a cloth in one hand, and clean it with the toothbrush in the other. All the spatter then stays in the cloth.

Leave the swingarm well alone unless you're removing the chain all together. Removing the chain and sprocket guards should be enough.

There are chain cleaning kits around, where you just run the chain through it and it comes out sparkling, but I've no idea even what they're called.
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Reppyboyo
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PostPosted: 17:26 - 08 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

KettenMax.

I use one, does a very good job.
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chrish2003
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PostPosted: 00:31 - 10 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tahnks Mchaggis & Reppyboyo for your replies.

In fact YES it did have a split link in fact I wondered how easy or difficult it would have been to try and split it. I didn't attempt it as after the first clean with de-grasing solution (petrol) I disscovered that the chain link was painted white. I wasn't too sure if this was done to make it more easily spotted, or if it was some sort of anti-tamper solution put on it to check invalidation of warranty etc, so decideide it was best left alone.

More interestly I discoverd two tight spots in the chain and would really like to know what the best solution for these are (I posted another thread on this forum regarding this)?

Thank again peeps,
Chris
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mchaggis
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PostPosted: 12:02 - 10 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would recommend against using petrol to clean chains. Petrol will cause the O-rings to swell and disintegrate, leading to more rapid chain wear. Use paraffin (kerosene) or diesel instead.
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element
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Joined: 23 Jan 2006
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PostPosted: 10:16 - 11 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

mchaggis wrote:
I would recommend against using petrol to clean chains. Petrol will cause the O-rings to swell and disintegrate, leading to more rapid chain wear. Use paraffin (kerosene) or diesel instead.


do o-ring/x-ring chains have split links? didnt think they did.

If I couldnt get the chain off id get the bike up on a padock stand (I have a DT so I use a pit stand which lifts the back end up quite high. Then I take the rear wheel off and I have plenty of access to clean the chain. I have a normal heavy duty chain with split link but I cant be bothered buying new split links so I leave it on the bike while cleaning/lubing. Also for degreasing I use IPA (rubbing alcohol? which dries very fast but shifts crap easily. I use it on my nitro R/C car) but there are chain degreaser sprays around. I think you can use WD40 as a degreaser but I only use that to clean plastics.

For tight links id just give em a jiggle. When putting chains on my mountain bike with a link extractor id find that id end up with a tight link. Id jiggle it up and down then push/pull it with my thumbs and index finger (like you would trying to snap a stick but your thumbs are right on the links that are stiff). I'll probably get flamed for saying that but its only what id do and anyhow its only a 125 so it wouldnt put that much stress on the chain. Obviously try jigglying it up and down with pentrating oil before using brute force though Smile
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meenie
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Joined: 24 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 13:39 - 11 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

chrish2003 wrote:
More interestly I discoverd two tight spots in the chain and would really like to know what the best solution for these are (I posted another thread on this forum regarding this)?

Thank again peeps,
Chris

If they really are tight spots then the best advice would be to replace the chain and sprockets. There is a risk of increased wear and in extreme circumstances, it could break. That would be if it was really a tight spot tho and not just something that can be removed as someone said with some oil and movement. After all, a D.I.D Chain and sprocket OEM kit is only about £35.
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chrish2003
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PostPosted: 20:10 - 11 Oct 2006    Post subject: Oiling the tight SPots Reply with quote

I did try oiling the tight spots individually and "wiggling" up and down then a left to right motion as described but this failed.

I think I gave up in the end, resulting in me just putting all the plastics, bolts ets back on and checked for chain adjustment, took it for a spin, then adjusted up the rear brake.

However I think the bike may still be covered under its manufacturers warranty, I think I'll ring the dealer and ask if the chain is covered (its only done 2,000 miles)?

Thanks Agains for all of your peeps comments/answers.

Chris
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