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Vintage Honda |
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Vintage Honda L Plate Warrior
Joined: 18 Oct 2006 Karma :
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finpos |
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finpos World Chat Champion
Joined: 13 Sep 2005 Karma :
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Posted: 23:25 - 18 Oct 2006 Post subject: |
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What do you mean by the meter lamp?
What's this resistor you changed?
Sorry, both sound very unfamiliar to me
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DOS |
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DOS World Chat Champion
Joined: 29 Jun 2006 Karma :
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Ichy |
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Ichy World Chat Champion
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Posted: 00:18 - 19 Oct 2006 Post subject: |
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Vintage Honda |
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Vintage Honda L Plate Warrior
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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Vintage Honda |
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Vintage Honda L Plate Warrior
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 00:30 - 20 Oct 2006 Post subject: |
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Vintage Honda wrote: | The battery is brand new, mine is the early h100a with just a speedo, they have a resistor as its referred to in the repair manual it sits just above the cylinder head and mounts to the frame it has one pink wire coming out of it which goes into the loom when the resistor is earthed the bulbs would be dim but if its removed from the frame and just the pink wire connected all the bulbs are bright, i think the issue could be the bulbs but will see. |
That's a ballast resistor. It stops the wiring in the lighting circuit from overloading and popping all the bulbs when you just have the sidelight on.
The lighting circuit is powered directly from the alternator, the electricity is not rectified or regulated, just runs on direct, single phase AC.
What this means is that when the lights are switched on, the circuit is supplied with a certain amount of power which is distributed between all the bulbs. If the headlamp isn't on but the sidelight is, there is an extra 25w of power in the circuit that the headlamp would normally have been using. You then get a cascade bulb failure (they all pop, one after the other). The ballast resistor 'soaks up' the extra 25w and prevents this. It also prevents cascade bulb failure if say, the taillight bulb blew.
This is why it is important to use the correct wattage bulbs and to have the ballast resistor connected, don't take it off. Sort out the bulbs and your problem will go away.
Incidentally. The flashers, neutral light and brake light are on a totally seperate circuit and run off the battery. They have nothing whatsoever to do with the headlamp, tail light and instrument light.
EDIT: I should point out that "cascade bulb failure" is a term I came up with myself to describe what happens in that sort of lighting setup when a bulb blows in the absense of a ballast resistor. My old Yugoslavian moped used to do it all the time. So don't use it to describe something to a mechanic, they wont know what you mean. |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 17 years, 193 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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