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What angle to beat a GATSO?

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Mozzer
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PostPosted: 14:26 - 17 Oct 2006    Post subject: What angle to beat a GATSO? Reply with quote

What angle would you need to go through a GATSO at on your back wheel for your plate to be unvisible? Mr. Green

(Note: This is humour...)
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Itchy
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PostPosted: 14:31 - 17 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

not much Stink beat a Gatso last year , going through a gatso sideways
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GearboxGeezer
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PostPosted: 14:40 - 17 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

At what ever angle it takes to hit your No. plate on the floor to rip it clean off your bike Smile
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nrml76
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PostPosted: 14:47 - 17 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

It would depend on the bike and how the numberplate is mounted; I think you would have to be doing a standing wheelie at a fairly close to vertical angle to be 100% certain, but I might be wrong. Having said that, the best way to approach a gatso, is from directly behind, on foot, wearing a balaclava, taking with you a peace offering of a can of petrol and an old tyre Twisted Evil.
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TheShaggyDA
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PostPosted: 15:07 - 17 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been wondering recently on what the quickest method of disabling a speed camera would be, that would require the minimum of materials. A car tyre and can of petrol might do the job, but it's not something you can have up your jumper. Apparently, cavity wall insulation is the way to go, but I'd have thought that would require some time and maybe a few cans to get it done right. Simple can of spray paint over the lens maybe? Something a little more permanent would be preferable. A shotgun shell in a pipe on a stick? Would be handy for those of us who are vertically challenged, but they don't sell ammo at Halfords.

Any ideas? Purely from a research point of view, of course Smile
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[i:6e3bfc7581]But still I fear and still I dare not laugh at the madman...[/i:6e3bfc7581]
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GearboxGeezer
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PostPosted: 15:13 - 17 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Black spray paint would do it I reckon.
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Finglonga
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PostPosted: 15:16 - 17 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

TheShaggyDA wrote:
cavity wall insulation is the way to go, but I'd have thought that would require some time and maybe a few cans to get it done right.


There is enough in one can to do more than one scamera, the stuff expands like you wouldn't believe. Wink

So you would only need one can.
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MRX Steve
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PostPosted: 15:54 - 17 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wink
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thefallenange...
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PostPosted: 19:56 - 17 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thermite!

Bag of thermite onto the amera (tape will do), run the detination wire around the corner and pull the detenator. Try stop that you "Cash Point" gits.
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TheShaggyDA
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PostPosted: 20:01 - 17 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Grenades, thermite - not exactly something you can pick up at Tesco, are they?

[edit] Although a quick search found this Smile

Quote:
thermite is actually a combination of iron oxide (rust) and aluminum. It can be a real pain to light it though. Some claim to have lighted thermite with a match, but I seriously doubt it. The normal method used to light homemade thrermite is with a flare (the pull-string kind).

Standard thermite production involves using a nail (big iron one) and electrolysis (DC current running through the nail under some water). This will essentially turn a big nail into a giant pile of rust overnight. Bake it in the oven for a while to dry it out and you have a really big pile of very-bad-smelling iron oxide. Then use a slow-speed grinder on some soda cans with some creative dust collection and you have your aluminum powder =). Use eye protection and wear a particle breathing mask (aluminum in the brain/lungs has been linked with alzheimers disease).

Combine the two at a 50/50 ratio and you've got yourself some thermite. DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME (hell, don't try it at all. Just be happy knowing how). Especially don't light it with your hands (it will burn your arm/face off). Use a wick or a really, really long metal device (or a robot!) to light it.

Homemade thermite burns at about 6,000 degrees (F). Hotter than the sun!

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[i:6e3bfc7581]But still I fear and still I dare not laugh at the madman...[/i:6e3bfc7581]


Last edited by TheShaggyDA on 20:10 - 17 Oct 2006; edited 1 time in total
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mr jamez
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PostPosted: 20:09 - 17 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thermite is iron oxide and aluminium powder, so you could quite easily make some at home. Setting it off is a bit harder, but I am sure we have some experts here Wink
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TheShaggyDA
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PostPosted: 20:15 - 17 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Apparently a sparkler works Smile
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 20:25 - 17 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thermite has been tried. A guy in Wales melted a speed camera with it. They still managed to recover his picture and he was charged with criminal damage and conspiracy to cause explosions. I presume he is now spending some quality time behind bars.

Powdered magnesium piled over an overloaded electrolytic capacitor as a remote electronic detonator burns with a teriffic amount of heat I believe. Certainly enough to overcome the initial enthalpy required to make yourself some pure iron metal by reacting iron oxide with powdered aluminium.

Quote:
Stink beat a Gatso last year , going through a gatso sideways


Wasn't last year, it was about nine years ago on the A90 heading for Aberdeen. I braked WAY too hard when I saw the road markings, the back end broke away at well over 80mph and started to overtake the front (I'd been somewhat over ton-up when I saw the markings). I was able to watch the camera flash over my left shoulder. Somehow got it back under me with a massive tank slapper and (nearly) shitted pants.

The camera flashed twice, which back then meant there was film in it, they only flashed once otherwise, so they definately got my picture. I can only assume I was so sideways, they couldn't read my plate (I was very sideways!).

I would not recommend this method for avoiding speed cameras.
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MarkJ
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PostPosted: 21:41 - 17 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I always imagined the best way to destroy one would be to drill a hole in the back with a portable drill, pour a bit of petrol inside and lob a match in (however if the metal box the innards are in is hard to drill this obviously wouldn't work).

However, I've heard you can put some cling film over the lense that takes the picture. It's hard to notice it's on there from a distance but it makes all the pictures out of focus. Apparently.
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Jebus
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PostPosted: 21:51 - 17 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

hehehe, that would be so much fun make a litte pipe filled with thermite and tape it to the top of a speed camera stick a sparkler in the top and watch it burn! dont think it really possiable and if you did the rozzers would pull you for the dodgy angle anyway.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:01 - 17 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

It would be even more entertaining if you drilled a hole in the box and inserted a 2-stage charge that first dispersed a quantity of thermite as a cloud of dust THEN ignited it.

Mind you, the commonly acepted protocall is to hang a burning tyre round their 'neck'.
https://www.speedcam.co.uk/g232.jpg
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SoND
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PostPosted: 22:08 - 17 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you had some tools could you take it apart and steal the camera?
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thefallenange...
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PostPosted: 22:15 - 17 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

why not just hit it with a blinking hammer, cover your face and no one is the wiser?
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lilredmachine
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PostPosted: 23:42 - 17 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

thefallenangel wrote:
why not just hit it with a blinking hammer, cover your face and no one is the wiser?


Where's the effort? The imagination? The whole point of burning a scamera is to show that no matter how much propoganda they churn out, people still hate them enough to go to extreme lengths to annihilate them. It's the principal of the thing!
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bEN_
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PostPosted: 23:46 - 17 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

isn't cling film supposed to work?
if you put it on right it completely blurrs the image and when/if someone comes to check the camera they probably won't spot it, and if it's done right they won't even see the cling film.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 23:50 - 17 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Quick simple way to put them out of action (but not do anything to the film) would be to use some strong filler into the lock to stop them taking the camera down to put in / take out films.

For the cameras that work off an inductive loop in the road it is probably easy to just cut through the wires (or just some petrol on the road surface and set fire to it).

All the best

Keith
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Sephiroth
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PostPosted: 00:02 - 18 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

Quick simple way to put them out of action (but not do anything to the film) would be to use some strong filler into the lock to stop them taking the camera down to put in / take out films.

For the cameras that work off an inductive loop in the road it is probably easy to just cut through the wires (or just some petrol on the road surface and set fire to it).

All the best

Keith


Not that you've ever done them before Wink.
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5v3d3b0
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PostPosted: 00:02 - 18 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mount this on your bike, and the problem is solved.

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steveh
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PostPosted: 00:13 - 18 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

not saying ive done it Wink

but i know two lads who got some black and white tape and neatly put the black tape in the camera bit and the white tape in the flash part, so it looked like a flash bulb in the day..

i belive "one" of them used a motorcycle buff to cover there faces at 3 in the morning.


was there for months afterwards..(i belive)
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colin1
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PostPosted: 00:27 - 18 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have heard that clim film is best, as there is no obvious damage, but the pics just dont come out clear

firebombed ones tend to get noticed quickly and are then replaced at tax payers expense
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