ceased on bar end weights

[bunglehaze]

Hi folks,

I have just got round to putting a pair of heated grips on my zzr and have come to a big problem, the bar end weights will not unscrew- in fact in trying to get the screw out I have broken 2 good quality screwdrivers. Have any of you had this problem before and how do you get round it? I have already cut off one of my old grips so I have to finish this up..

cheers

leigh
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06 - ZZR600 > 07 - ZX6R J1 > 08 - ZX6R J2 > 09 - ZX636 A1P > 11 - ZX10R C1H

[Walloper]

Have you tried knocking them with a soft head hammer before atacking with the screwdriver?
If you have access to the shop.
Just drill out the heads and punch the bolts in.
Replace with the new bolt.
B&Q might help wif a nut and bolt till you get the right one.
Sorry no other ideas.

Do not listen to the rank and file crys of 'Jessie'.
Tis is a good and worthwhile fight BTW.
Keeping the handy poos warm is cool.
Oh and thick gloves help to keep the heat from the grips in too, and not just blow away.
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W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair

[Pete.]

Put a stillson on the bar weight and turn the whole thing. The countersunk screws tend to seize inside the weights. Be warned it will mark the end-weights up badly.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[Cillit-BANG]

Spray the thing with release spray and leave overnight. Use a 1/4" drive socket, loaded with the appropriate screwdriver head (note, a lot of bar-ends use philips heads and not pozidrive, using the wrong bit will ruin the head). The extra leverage you get is quite substantial, but be sure to keep forward pressure on the screw using the other hand.

Or, remove the handlebar and attack it with an impact driver on the bench.

If that doesn't work then use a large HSS drill bit to drill off the head. Slide the bar-end off then use mole grips to shift the remaining stud. Apply heat with a blow torch first, then douse with ice cold water to try to break the corosion seal.

[loply]

I second the suggestion of applying heat then cooling it. I've done it in the past and though I can't prove it, I swear it helps loosen things up.

Also sometimes, oddly enough, I find it helps to try and turn a seized bolt clockwise to break the seal, then unscrew it... Sometimes it will go in easier than it will come out, and after that it's unseized.
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Yamaha SZR660 Caution to the wind, the throttle pinned!

[bunglehaze]

well after a large struggle I finally managed to get them off, in the end I drilled through the bolt head with a large bit, then into the threaded shank with a smaller bit until I had drilled up through the side, I then hammered in a flat headed screwdriver and either unscrewed the bolt (in the case of the first one) or sheared off the head (2nd one) which allowed me to remove the remaining thread with my molegrips.

i tried all of the above methods (apart from heating) and got frustrated so took the drill to it..

Now I have the problem that the throttle grip is not a good fit so im waiting for glue to set before I can use the bike.

cheers

leigh
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https://bikechatter.net
Motorcycle Products Reviews and News
06 - ZZR600 > 07 - ZX6R J1 > 08 - ZX6R J2 > 09 - ZX636 A1P > 11 - ZX10R C1H

[Walloper]

Sorry mate. I should get my wrists slapped and my hair pulled.
I fitted heated grips to a bike and needed glue too.
The cheap set of grips did not have it in.
The better grips come with the glue.

I never suggested heat cause the throttle thingy would get frazzled. So you could only heat one side.
Actually to do it really well well you could cryogenically freeze the bar end by using liquid Nitrogen and heat the bars with your big sisters hair drier.
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W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair

[sickpup]

Or just use an impact driver on those big cross heads.

[syl]

Glad you've got them off. In future put the screwdriver in and whack it with a hammer prior to turning it, heat it or just use an impact driver. The threads are usually (red) loctited on and that bond needs breaking.
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Current bike: Kawasaki Z750S

[bunglehaze]

Oone more thing with this, I took out the rest of the bolt/screw but the bars are not hollow now, does this mean there is the other section still inside that has to be removed in order to put replacements on?

I only noticed because on the new ones I ordered (tarty ones) they have a stem as well as a head and the only bit I removed was a head...

I actually ended up using araldite on the throttle side as I could not figure a better adhesive, whats normally best to use? I think it has stuck firm enough and it has all been wired in nicely now and loomed.

regards

leigh
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https://bikechatter.net
Motorcycle Products Reviews and News
06 - ZZR600 > 07 - ZX6R J1 > 08 - ZX6R J2 > 09 - ZX636 A1P > 11 - ZX10R C1H

[syl]

[bunglehaze]

aah cool.. I guess theres no harm leaving the old bit inside then as long as the new head fits onto it, if not I will have a pop at removal.

cheers

leigh
____________________
https://bikechatter.net
Motorcycle Products Reviews and News
06 - ZZR600 > 07 - ZX6R J1 > 08 - ZX6R J2 > 09 - ZX636 A1P > 11 - ZX10R C1H

[syl]

Remember to loctite the thread or you'll end up loosing it eventually. Lots of vibrations in the bars (hence the bar-end weight).
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Current bike: Kawasaki Z750S