Chain going slack very quickly

[Falco]

So this has been an going on for a little while now, but I can't figure out why

As the title says, the chain goes slack very quickly (after around 100 miles or more than a week, which ever comes first) and I am at a bit of a loss as to why. The chain and sprockets are both pretty new (<3000 miles), no play in the rear wheel, swing arm, front or rear sprocket, chain sits nicely on the rear sprocket.

What am I missing? Adjusting it once a week seems too often. It's certainly bloody annoying.

The bike is a CG125 (2004)

[cb1rocket]

Just pointing Out the obvious, you are oiling your chain aren't you?
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[jaffa90]

How are you checking the chain tension and what play has it??

[Falco]

[wots]

[Falco]

[CaNsA]

lift the rear.
spin the wheel
does the chain move up and down?

[MattEMulsion]

Cheap chain???
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Yamaha YZF-R6

[tom_e]

Surely if it's done 3k and you're adjusting it every 100 or so you'd be well out of adjustment range by now?

Are you doing the rear axle nut up tight tight? It almost sounds like the wheel is gradually shifting forward rather than the chain managing to stretch that much in a tiny amount of time.

[Rogerborg]

[DRZ4Hunned]

+1 for cheese chain, cheap chains do have a tendency to wear quicker than more expensive chains (they don't stretch, they wear). What chain is it?
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DRZ400-SM
FZS600

[Falco]

[ADSrox0r]

Chains don't stretch, they wear the rollers making the overall length longer. That kind of wear seems unrealistic in that kind of mileage so I'd be inclined to point towards your adjustment mechanism.
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Current bikes: '08 VFR 800 VTEC(yo) , '07 ZZR1400 Winter hack: '95 Aprilia 650 Pegaso Currently lusting after: RC30

[NJD]

I'm not sure how well this works but watching delboysgarage recently he advised to put two dots on a tightened nut/bolt/whatever as a marker to see if its working itself loose at all. The idea is that at the 12 o clock posistion you put one small blob on the nut/bolt/whatever and then just above it on the frame and then keep an eye on it for the dots moving out of line with each other.

Just a suggestion to rule the axle working its way loose. I'd guess could still be tight but loose but not worryingly hand loose and therefore not noticeable.
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[andym]

Interested in the answers here as I have the same problem, I adjusted my chain a few weeks ago, oil it once a week or so, clean it once a month.

When I adjusted it last the chain easily reached the swingarm, and probably a bit more slack too, I adjusted it until there was ~1cm of movement, when I went to clean/oil the chain today I noticed it is back to hitting the swingarm with movement to spare.

As for the replies about the chain stretching, surely with mine it would have snapped by now, the only thing I can think of is because I have a castellated nut on the rear axle that I have to tighten then loosen slightly to get the split pin through it is relying on the chain tensioner only, which because of vibrations etc it is loosening off quite quickly.

But I could be totally wrong here

[Rogerborg]

Thing is, even if the axle were loose, the adjuster bolts should stop it moving forwards (unless the lock nuts on them are loose too).

I'd be minded to assume cheese until proven otherwise.
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[andym]

[DRZ4Hunned]

[Polarbear]

[andym]

[CaNsA]

Hold up a sec, lads.

[skatefreak]

[Teflon-Mike]

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/C9gAAOSw-itXq-VM/s-l1600.jpg

E-bay listing says they are final drive chain adjusters for a CG125 & cost less than £3.

I would recommend buying a pair, to eliminate variables & silly Q opportunities.

Threads very commonly get stripped when folk try winding the adjuster nuts with the axle bolt still done up & the like... oft leaving enough threads for the nuts to turn, but 'slip' as soon as they are put under any real load.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/noUAAOSwo0JWM6AF/s-l1600.jpg

Rear axle assemble, aprox £15..... again, commonly mullered by monkeys bashing them out with a hammer direct on the threads, rather than using a drift in the dimple.

A critical torqwue setting on a buggered thread does not tell you that the axle is properly tightened... just that that's how much torque you have put on the nut before the ratchet clicked.... and is as likely to be in the first half dozen turns where that torque is trying to re-shape bent threads as where it's supposed to be clamping washer to swing-arm.

Again, replacement eliminates variables and opportunity for silly questions.

Both parts shown are quick e-bay listings; personally I would probably check CSML for propper part numbers and check Dave Silver Spares by part no, or call them direct, as they dont seem to show these bits in their 2004 model listing & I CBA to do all the leg work for you. DSS are Honda approved parts supplier and often they are as good on price as e-bay and less hassle.

Whilst awaiting thier arrival in the post; I would pull the wheel & use time to get in and clean the swing-arm & mudguard region.

I might even whilst I am doing that, treat the chain to a parafin wash and grease bath.... a very old school practice, to clean and lube a chain:

3 foil curry tins from the take-away; you put loose chain in the 1st and cover with parafin, or if you cant get hold of any, some a little deseasil, maybe mixed with about 1/4 petrol. Let it soak, then scrub with a wire brush to get rid of all crap off it. Repeat a couple of times till you are satisfied chain is clean, depending how shitty to start with.

Next, in 2nd take-away tin; cover chain in old engine oil & 'simmer' gently for about twenty minutes until golden, serve.. oh sorry wrng recipe... How you warm the tin is up to you, and wrath you may engender from nearest and dearest; tents to stink out the kitchen for weeks if you use the stove; little camping billy in the garden works well; but a boy-scout camp-fire will do the job.

Getting the chain hot, melts old crud and grease and some 'convection' in the fluids helps push it out of the links in the chain & bring crud with it.

After simmer... chain may be returned to curry-tin 1 for another rince; and the hot dip repeated, if you wish.

3rd curry tin comes in for the final finish, when you are happy the chain is clean; you allow to drip dry of paraffin & old engine oil... before placing in the last tin and covering with LM axle grease... and returning to the heat, to make it melt.

The hot grease, will soak into the links of the chain, and should displace any residual old; coating the inner surfaces of the pins and rollers etc.

When its percolated for a while; and the grease outside the chain has taken on a 'stain', remove, wipe down the excess back onto the tin, which can be kept to do the job next time. Leave to cool, and fit to bike when you are ready.

This is a cheap way to lube chains; a half kilo (pound!) of grease costs less than a cheapo can of chain-wax aerosol! BUT best of all, it actually gets where you need the stuff, inside the rollers!

Worth note: most modern & bigger bikes use 'sealed' 'O' or 'X' ring chains; they have a rubber seal between the side-plates and the rollers to keep factory fitted graphite grease in the links; 'sealed for life', making them 'sealed for life'.. spray lube is merely keeping a light coating of oil the out-side face of the rollers, where they rub on the teeth of the sprockets. What comes out the can is a light grease dissolved in a solvent, so that in free air, the solvent evaporates and leaves the greasy residue behind.

Which provides some dilemma over advice oft offered that you should spray-lube a chain after a ride when its warm, and the 'grease will flow'... cos the solvent should make it do that, and if teh chain is hot, it will just make it evaporate sooner, so less likely to 'flow' before it buggers off...... But either way, on a 'seal' chain, if the grease was carried to the high load bearing faces inside the roller.... it was dead to start with and a little lube wont help it much!!

Older (much older) big-bikes and lightweights, are the only things that are commonly fitted with 'plain' open roller chains any more, because they are cheaper, and they don't have the rubber seals adding drive-line weight and friction that does 'sap' a little power. (competition bikes tend to run plain chains for this reason).

Spray lubes on such chains are a much deliberated subject, and whilst there's no seal to stop lube getting where it's needed; how much might get there is in question, and chain 'wax' using a heavier grease and lighter solvent, intended more for a seal ring chain is probably not the best suited, if any are all that useful.....

Old hot-dip, works, and works for a very long while, and can see a chain last an AWFUL long time....

But back to adjustment hassles....

Whilst doing some preventative maintenance in the district; cleaning swinger, & inside of mudguard area etc...

Swing arm warrants some attension, and particularly at the axle end.

The adjuster 'hooks' the adjuster nuts bear on often get bashed, and or go rusty. The fish-plates where the axle clamps, likelwise often get dinged and grooved....

common for numpties to omot washers and over tightening an axle to gouge a groove; bikes left standing, rust around where the axle sits, and again, the fish-plate gets grooved.

On an older bike, it is not uncommon for the fish-plate to be bowed into a dish shape and the axle to try and creep back into the middle of the bow, or for it to be terraced, with a series of steps where the axle has previousely been 'set', and again, the axle to try and creep into a 'wear slot' that's been made over the years for it, rather than stay where you want it.

Rotary wire brush, to lean up the axle clamping 'zone' and reveal alignment marks, is a good start.

Next, a little time spend with a flat-file dressing the clamping zone, removing pits and grooves and ridges... both sides... same wear ridges are caused other side by the spacer.... and around the adjuster hooks, making sure they are straight and flat and the adjuster's not going to ping or slip out of them!

they are often bashed by folk forgetting to hook the adjusters before doing the axle up, and rounding off the top trying to twist them round, or worse, bashing the bludy thing flat to get it in, with brute force!

That sort of attension in that area; be a worthy call to ponder whether to go that bit further and pop bottom shock mounts, clean and grease them, maybe even the swing-arm pivot, likewise... I mean, you have just invested a fiver in a pot of LM grease, & it's more use on shock mounts and swing arm hinges than in the pot in the shed, isn't it?

BUT, comes down to old fashioned do it once, do it right mechanics, and paying attension to detail.
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[Falco]

[CaNsA]

Teffers.

I'm gonna have to set you as an enemy, sorry dude.
My keyboard and scroll wheel can't handle the wear and tear of skipping your posts.