Pup-Project: Honda CB125TD-C; Resto & Beyond...

Dipsy2 · Renault 5 Driver Joined: 05 Jul 2009 Karma :

deleted

FURBAR · Banned Joined: 04 Apr 2010 Karma :

Rename thread to ' The Making of Mad Max IV ' .... Thumbs Up

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Fuk um !!

nightshaddow · Nearly there... Joined: 18 Feb 2008 Karma :

my got this is truely turning into porn, hopefully we can compare notes mine gonna be a bit ott me thinks but all will be decided later,

lookin good..... looking dam good Twisted Evil

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"WHAT DO YOU MEAN 100 MPH THATS IMPOSSIBLE Its chinese OFFICER."
Current rides CB 125 TDE(the next project) NS125RK ( now on the road ) CB125TDC (soon to be project 17) melody ( the nephews )

SnowTigeress · Brolly Dolly Joined: 23 May 2010 Karma :

Teflon-Mike · tl;dr Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :

SnowTigeress · Brolly Dolly Joined: 23 May 2010 Karma :

SnowTigeress · Brolly Dolly Joined: 23 May 2010 Karma :

Well I know every1s been waiting on an update and there will be 1 soon..... well Tef been moaning at me saying it supposed to be a photo rebuild.............and he needs to take more pics of what im doing.........but hey once im up and about I start work and I cant just grow another set of hands to hold the damn camera.........so like I said on another post if he moans at me then when im up and ready to start ill get him out of bed................... well I have let him have a bit of a lie in Razz

just took him up a coffee he looked at the clock shook his head and rolled over.............. But all im doing atm is sanding down the plastics and tank ill get pics between each stage............... oh and having to sand the wheels back down as the primer was too thick
____________________
Real bikers build their own Renovated and Riding a 1986 Honda CB125TD-C called the Pup. Full Licence 13/09/2012, 1994 Moto Guzzi 750 Strada
Can-Do Girl that does spanners TOO!
TheSmiler: binning it is better than going around a roundabout the wrong way

SnowTigeress · Brolly Dolly Joined: 23 May 2010 Karma :

Ok, some updates on recent activity. NOT been much to post lately. I've been doing lots of 'itsy-bitsy' jobs, like Fixing broken plastics, mending and making speedo needles, making good and painting the clock-cases, washing and sanding plastics, and STILL trying to get them bludy wheels painted properly!

So, in the mean-time, a couple of 'mini' How-to's for you of some of the smaller 'jobs' that have to be tackled.
____________________
Real bikers build their own Renovated and Riding a 1986 Honda CB125TD-C called the Pup. Full Licence 13/09/2012, 1994 Moto Guzzi 750 Strada
Can-Do Girl that does spanners TOO!
TheSmiler: binning it is better than going around a roundabout the wrong way

SnowTigeress · Brolly Dolly Joined: 23 May 2010 Karma :

Fixing broken plastics

https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1310.jpg
Here we have the tail cowling from the pup, and the 'noggins' that it bolts to the support rail have broken off. They ALL do that! The 'lugs' on the back of side-panels are another one that ALWAYS breaks, and Tef's going to show me how to re-make one of them later.

What you need:

https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/plastics%20and%20tank/Bike320.jpg
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/plastics%20and%20tank/Bike321.jpg

1> Plastic Part to be fixed
2> Soldering Iron

(One with an interchangeable tip you don’t mind getting messy, or an old or cheap one that can be kept especially for the job)
3> 'Scrap' Plastic, of a similar texture to the bit you want to fix, cut from any old plastic 'rubbish' you have lying about, to use as 'filler' rod.

The first thing to do is to find the right 'Scrap' plastic to use as your filler. you can buy special plastic welding kits, that contain plastic rods of different plastic, but they are expensive, and you are BOUND to have loads of suitable plastic 'rubbish' you can use instead!

In true 'Blue-Peter' fusion, raid the kitchen cupboards, the recycling bin, kids bedroom, garage shelves WHEREVER... for ANYTHING 'disposable' or that you can dispose of, made of plastic.

You need to try and 'match' the plastic of the filler rod to that of the thing you are fixing, and for motorbike body-panels the plastic is normally some kind of nylon.

Best match for that kind of plastic I have found has tended to be from things like washing up bowls, stak-a-boxes or old milk-bottles. Plastic tends not to be quite as high grade or as brittle as that used in the motorbike panels, but it doesn't have to be an 'exact' match.

https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1213.jpg

If you have NEVER done this before, or aren't very confident, it’s a good idea to start on something that’s not critical or cosmetic. I practiced on an old bucket!

the PRINCIPLE is that you place the two parts to be joined together, then you sort of 'stitch' the plastic together across the joint by stabbing the soldering iron into the plastic, the blade at 90 degrees to the crack or join, in little 'stitches' to give a sort of 'zip' effect.

This puts plastic across the join, and makes the two halves stick together. so the NEXT bit is to add new plastic to fill the holes, and then mix that in, and smear it about a bit, over a wider area, to get the new and old plastic properly joined, and get a good continuous piece of plastic without any cracks or scars where it will crack again!

https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1311.jpg
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1312.jpg

So once you have your tools and materials sorted, you can start work. And the first thing is to look at what you are fixing and decide how to tackle it.

There are a lot of repairs you can make with plastic welding, and on a motorbike panel, you can weld up a crack, or re-join a part that has broken off. You can also fill holes and build up plastic by 'modelling' depending on how crafty you get.

For now, we want to put these noggins back on and build them up so they don’t break off again, and to get them aligned properly, tef has bolted the cowl and the broken noggins, back on the support rail to hold them in place.

Then JUST for now, 'stitched' across the joint to get the bits to stick together. He's done this BOTH sides, to make sure that the join and the filler plastic do go right the way through the part.

https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1313.jpg
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1314.jpg
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1316.jpg
Once the noggins are attached, the frame rail can be removed so that the whole joint area can be worked. Tef stitched the areas of the join that were under the frame rail and washer, THEN used the soldering iron to 'valley' the join and put a groove in to take the filler plastic.

In this case the plastic was cut from a stak-a-box that had cracked, and Tef melts it roughly into the groove.

https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1320.jpg
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1322.jpg
Once the filler rod, has been melted into the groove, it then has to be melted into the plastic around the groove to mix the different plastics and get a continiouse 'flow' accross the joint.
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1325.jpg
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1326.jpg
Again, this has to be done on BOTH sides of the crack.
With the front roughly 'done' Tef put the support rail back on to keep the soft noggin aligned while building up the joint on the back.
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1327.jpg
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1328.jpg
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1329.jpg
Because this is niggin is bolted through, and obviously isn't all that strong, we wanted to strengthen the area around the joint.
Tef put a large washer over the bolt-hole to help spread loads and strengthen the joint.
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1330.jpg
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1331.jpg
And then built the area around it up with filler plastic, basically burying the washer in the part!
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1333.jpg
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1335.jpg
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1338.jpg
Not QUITE finished, but the whole area has been built up with filler plastic, fused into the original part over a wide area, and smoothed so as to put strength into the joint.

This bit needs a little finishing, and the hole re-making yet, but that’s basically how it’s done.

Other bits we've tackled include the case for the Speedo and taco.

https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1264.jpg
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1268.jpg
This had two small cracks in the top. On parts like this, the joint has to be as smooth as possible, because it’s in a very visible area, and to make the part 'good' needs a bit more work after welding. In this case, MORE bludy sanding and painting!
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1273.jpg
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1274.jpg
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1275.jpg
The rear mudguards also have a habit of cracking around the clips where they attach to the frame rails at the bottom, and the bolt holes at the top.
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1278.jpg
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1279.jpg
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1281.jpg
These are not so obvious, so if the repair can be made nice and smooth, then they shouldn't need any finishing sanding or paint..... Thank heavens!

In the NEXT instalment, I'll show you how we tried to repair or make new needles for the Speedo and taco...... Apparently, things don’t ALWAYS work as you hope!

https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1306.jpg
____________________
Real bikers build their own Renovated and Riding a 1986 Honda CB125TD-C called the Pup. Full Licence 13/09/2012, 1994 Moto Guzzi 750 Strada
Can-Do Girl that does spanners TOO!
TheSmiler: binning it is better than going around a roundabout the wrong way

SnowTigeress · Brolly Dolly Joined: 23 May 2010 Karma :

pepperami · Super Spammer Joined: 17 Jan 2010 Karma :

this is quality Thumbs Up

improvisation at it`s best Smile

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I am the sum total of my own existence, what went before makes me who I am now!

SnowTigeress · Brolly Dolly Joined: 23 May 2010 Karma :

well its been a while since i last updated

just been trying to get the old paint off the engine some of it looking good just having trouble getting the paint off the cylinder head and barrel so once thats done ill do the write up plus stripping the old spocket off and refitting the new 1

also been doing some more plastic welding and sprayed the clocks after welding the the crack in the case

but also waiting on being able to afford and get all the new bushes for the swingarm and linkage as they are costing £10 each and theres 8

but all work was canceled on the bike as been helping fix the range rover as supposed to be going on hols in 9 days and the head gasket blow need the rangie as its a off roading week not going to be much cop going in a car did suggest taking number 4 and 5 and doing motorcycle off roading but we have tefs kids for the week plus my dog and none of them was propared to ride pillion
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Real bikers build their own Renovated and Riding a 1986 Honda CB125TD-C called the Pup. Full Licence 13/09/2012, 1994 Moto Guzzi 750 Strada
Can-Do Girl that does spanners TOO!
TheSmiler: binning it is better than going around a roundabout the wrong way

Teflon-Mike · tl;dr Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :

SnowTigeress · Brolly Dolly Joined: 23 May 2010 Karma :

It was a double post so deleted
____________________
Real bikers build their own Renovated and Riding a 1986 Honda CB125TD-C called the Pup. Full Licence 13/09/2012, 1994 Moto Guzzi 750 Strada
Can-Do Girl that does spanners TOO!
TheSmiler: binning it is better than going around a roundabout the wrong way

SnowTigeress · Brolly Dolly Joined: 23 May 2010 Karma :

well came back off hols on saturday been catching up on washing and cleaning.................managed to get out there onto the bike today...................why is it when things get packed away you cant bloody find them looking for my engine bolts to bolt the casing back on so i can then respray it..................Put a few bits together like brackets and cleaned all the threads upon the frame and copper slipped them so when i find half the stuff thats ready to be put on the frame the holes are ready and be easier to put the bolts through..................... sorry got loads of pics but they are all over the place as been bitting and bobbing for weeks................was going to wait till i had finished 1 part then post them as and when finished
____________________
Real bikers build their own Renovated and Riding a 1986 Honda CB125TD-C called the Pup. Full Licence 13/09/2012, 1994 Moto Guzzi 750 Strada
Can-Do Girl that does spanners TOO!
TheSmiler: binning it is better than going around a roundabout the wrong way

SnowTigeress · Brolly Dolly Joined: 23 May 2010 Karma :

Well, for those of you following progress, the project HASN'T died, its just been slow going lately!

A month before the kids schooll summer holidays, Tef was trying to get his Range-Rover through an MOT, so we could all go away camping and off-roading in Wales, the first week, but the bludy thing failed, and when he brought it home to fit new brake pads... it overheated on the drive and blew its head-gaskets!
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/odds%20and%20sods/13670013.jpg

This meant taking some time off from 'the Pup' as Tef had his head under the Rangie bonnet, and couldn't help me do the Pup, so I mucked in and helped him with the Rangie..... breaking gaskets, covering things in oil, loosing sump plugs.....that sort of stuff, he REALLY needed help with!

But, we got it sorted.... sort of... and went away for a week... At times I DID wonder if we would make it back. Especially when Tef had the bludy car tilted over further than I lean my motorbike! and I was looking at the FLOOR through the window! Tef, the b'stard LAUGHED at me, and said "Y'know, this thing weights two tons. Counter-leaning your eight stone wont really stop it toppling over!" Though AFTER we had survived, I was rather impressed at having gathered stinging nettles in the ROOF mounted CB aerial!
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/odds%20and%20sods/dsci0082.jpg
When we got back home though, we needed a holiday! Tef had a list of jobs to sort on the Range-Rover, but couldn't be arsed to do them, and I REALLY couldn't find the enthusiasm to look at the Pup, which didn't seem to be getting anywhere!.
We were doing 'little' bits here and there, between 'other stuff', and then Tef took his kids away for another week, in a caravan this time, and I was busy sorting out college courses!

YIPPEE! Now I'm a 'student'! Only doing it so I can 'av a Student Card! Well, 9-Bar do Jugs of white Russian for £14, but you get them at the Happy-Hour price of a tenner if your a student! CHEAP VODKA! You didn't think I wanted to LEARN anything did-ya!

So! Time to look at where the Pup has got to!

End of the last instalment, we were muggering about trying to make new needles for the speedo & tacho, that looked like the originals, and failing miserably! {NO! Says Tef: YOU just kept snapping them!} So after a few experiments, and given my custom wolf-cub fascias, Tef struck on the idea of cutting a needle shape out of an old CD to give a sort of chrome effect needle. Only it didn't work! CD is laminated plastic, and when he cut into it, the layers all fell apart!
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/clocks%20and%20switches/100_0246.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/clocks%20and%20switches/100_0245.jpg
BUT, he was left with a thin sheet of clear plastic, that gave us an idea! And carefully shaping the plastic, and super gluing it onto the old needle boss, created a clear pointer than you could see the fascias through! And Tef painted the tips white, to make a proper pointer, and it looked pretty good!

Then, after much pondering, I decided NOT to paint the bike black.. I decided instead, on 'Dark Aubergine' from the Ford colour range. Err..... OK, its Black! But if you look carefully, and with the light at the right angle, ACTUALLY you can see its a very, OK very VERY, dark purple, with a tinge of red in it! Tef is now pissed off, as he has ten cans of high-gloss black 'spare', but I don't care!
But he's got his own back.. This little choice, merited some detail changes to stuff we had already done. Namely the switch-gear and the clocks. These had been painted gloss black. BUT, Tef pointed out that the pearlescent 'NOT BLACK' paint I had chosen was so subtle, that if we just painted the tank and panels in it, there wouldn't be enough angles to catch the light and show off the red tinge, and give people the cue it wasn't just plain black! So, we had to do all the other bits in it, to get some angles happening, show some contrast in colours and give the colour a chance to show itself.

So rather than strip back and re-paint, Tef simply NICKED all my loverly painted switch cases!
Handed me another set, off one of the other bikes, and told me to start again, using the Dark Aubergine!
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/clocks%20and%20switches/100_0247.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/clocks%20and%20switches/imag1598.jpg
The brake master cylinder is ALMOST done. That and a few other bits need to be properly cured and then given a last coat of solvent resist laquer, before they can be put back together. Switch cases are part done. One or two are vexing Tef, doing the steady hand job of adding the orange lettering! But we need that before we can put the switches back together and get the full wiring loom sorted.
This is NOT very interesting. In fact its down right bludy boring & I 'ate wigglies! But Tef keeps encouraging me.... "It wont do itself you know!" B'stard! So, the main harness has been loosely put on the bike, after Tef got me cleaning all the little contacts with fine sand-paper and Mr Muscle window cleaner! Spraying WD40 down the wires, and then cleaning them and giving them a coat of Back-to-Black.

The headlamp surround has been fitted because that's where all the wigglies gather, and I've put the horn on, and sorted some indicator stalks!
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Frame/100_0254.jpg
Here's the ignition coils fitted up. Tef got me to make up a new bit of wiring for them,
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Lights%20and%20wiring/100_0252.jpg
Soldering ring terminals onto a length of wire, to go between the bolts holding each of the coils on and the top engine mounting, to be sure of a good 'earth' for the ignition. Tef said, quite common to get bad earths on a restored bike, because of the paint on the frame.
I have FINALLY painted the engine. (Tef kept sending me back to do bits I missed, like the bottom!)
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/engine/imag1388.jpg
Gave Tef a little scare, putting my gloves on to use the paint stripper!
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/engine/imag1389.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/engine/imag1392.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/engine/imag1394.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/engine/imag1589.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/engine/imag1588.jpg
____________________
Real bikers build their own Renovated and Riding a 1986 Honda CB125TD-C called the Pup. Full Licence 13/09/2012, 1994 Moto Guzzi 750 Strada
Can-Do Girl that does spanners TOO!
TheSmiler: binning it is better than going around a roundabout the wrong way

SnowTigeress · Brolly Dolly Joined: 23 May 2010 Karma :

But I cant fit it yet, because I have to rebuild a lug on the starter motor, so THAT can be painted and bolted to the engine.
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1593.jpg

The Clocks however ARE now finished
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/clocks%20and%20switches/imag1538.jpg
Repainted case front gets a bead of clear silicone sealant to stick the glass in. Then the Glass gets stuck in it, and weighed down to set.
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/clocks%20and%20switches/imag1541.jpg
After curing over-night, the excess silicone was trimmed from the glass.
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/clocks%20and%20switches/imag1572.jpg
Then it was turned over and more silicon used to seal it in place from behind.
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/clocks%20and%20switches/imag1574.jpg
Originally the case front and dial surround were plastic welded together, sandwiching the glass in between with a rubber seal. This is then sold as a single part. We were going to use the original seal, but this was old hard and perished and could have let water into the case and fog the dail. So we bedded it in silicone instead.
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/clocks%20and%20switches/imag1576.jpg
The dials were fitted into the re-painted case back. Tef put a little silicon behind the frames, to help seal them against moisture, and to help stop them shaking apart.
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/clocks%20and%20switches/imag1577.jpg
Next the light box was fitted. Tef gave this a little silicone, too, to help stop it rattling inside the case.
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/clocks%20and%20switches/imag1580.jpg
The dial surround was then screwed into the case-back. Originally, welded to the case front, this would have held everything together. As we has spit the case front & dial surround to re-seal the galss, we had to use LOTS more silicon, and then some superglue to stick it all back together so it wouldn't fall apart and make sure it was water-proof!
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/clocks%20and%20switches/imag1581.jpg
Finally!
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/clocks%20and%20switches/imag1592.jpg
All Done! But I ... err..... broke the tacho cable! So need to get new tacho & speedo cables before fitting them. Meanwhile, BITS being sprayed 'Not quite Black' are coming along, nicely. The footrest brackets are now DONE.... just need to find and finish the footrests before fitting them.
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/painting%20bits/imag1599.jpg
SEE! They're NOT Black!
Other niggly stuff that's been tackled has been the petrol tank and side-panels. Tef has been doing a bit of wizardry with old staka-box plastic and a soldering iron, re-making the lugs to hold on the side panels and tail cowling, but the first thing was to 'panel-beat' the side panels into shape, as they were a bit warped for some reason.
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1353.jpg
Tef did this with a couple of hammers and an electric blow-lamp! Clever, hugh!
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1560.jpg
Tef, getting cleverer with the soldering iron and bits of old scrap plastic snapped out of yet another broken stak-a-box!
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1561.jpg
First he welded two strips together to make a T section
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff//imag1565.jpg
Then added another to make an X section
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1566.jpg
Then he melted down the edges, using the molten plastic to fill the corners of the X and make the whole section the same width.
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1567.jpg
THEN he melted down all the 'spare' platic off the end, filling in the corners of the X for about 1/2" to make the 'head' (Phnar-Pnar! You'll see what I mean in a tic! I think its unfortunate that the stak-a-box he nicked the plastic from was red.... just sort of emphasises the phallic similarity!)
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1568.jpg
About 1" from the end, he melted a notch in the X section, and welded in another strip of plastic, to make the base of the lug where it would push through the rubber..(Oh gawd! The innuendo!)
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1569.jpg
He did that on all four sides, melting the spare plastic into the section to form a solid base, and then using more plastic melted into the bit above, shaped the 'head' (NOW do you see what I was laughing at!) And welded, using the spare plastic at the bottom to get (Tef's words not mine !) 'good penetration' (sheesh! I feel like I'm writing the captions for a porno mag, not a motorbike restoration! Must be my dirty mind!) {Err. Tef just said, DEFINITELY my dirty mind! LoL}
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/fixing%20stuff/imag1542.jpg
These are almost ready to be sanded properly, primed and painted.... only thanks to Halfords 2-Can stock holding, we don't have any paint at the moment!

We DO however have bushes for the rear suspension due to arrive from Dave Silver Spares. This means we can rebuild the rear suspension and put the swing arm back on. Annoyingly, these necessary bushes have cost a ridiculous £100, due to the design, and the fact that there are two bushes per pivot, and they cost about £10 EACH! But, this means that the linkages need to be prepped and painted to take them.

And when THAT'S done..... I have no wheels! They have been defying all attempts to take paint..... they are a pain in the arse! I'm thinking about nicking another pair, rather than persevering with these!

Idea was to paint them as they were horrible and scabby and scratched, and painted wheels would be 'different'. But since Tef has pointed out that they will probably take about four or five cans of this bludy hard to get 'not-quite-black'.... I'm wondering if they'll be worth the effort! Tef says he'll have 'one last go' at them, before we decide!

So..... there is progress, but its all that muddling in the middle sort of stuff where there's nothing interesting or important to report, or when it looks like there's anything ACTUALLY coming together.... Hopefully there will be SOON though......

I need this thing to ride to and from college!
OH! And I've got a New Tat!
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/odds%20and%20sods/imag1532.jpg
Its a pair of Indian feathers. But Tef reckons if you turn it upside down, it looks like what I thought his side panel lug was! Must be HIS dirty mind!
____________________
Real bikers build their own Renovated and Riding a 1986 Honda CB125TD-C called the Pup. Full Licence 13/09/2012, 1994 Moto Guzzi 750 Strada
Can-Do Girl that does spanners TOO!
TheSmiler: binning it is better than going around a roundabout the wrong way

SnowTigeress · Brolly Dolly Joined: 23 May 2010 Karma :

YIPPEEE! Looks like PROGRESS!

This morning, the Pup, looked like this:-
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/the%20pup/imag1626.jpg
NOW! It looks like THIS:-
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/the%20pup/imag1629.jpg
It has an ENGINE!

Its only 9 bolts... but WHAT a difference it makes to how far it feels we've got!

Anyway, last post, Tef, wouldn't let me put the engine in, even though I had finished painting it, becouse he wanted the starter motor on first, becouse he said it was a right pain to try and fit after the engine was in the frame.

But, there was a chunk of metal missing of one of the bolt holes. I hunted and hunted for it, becouse I was just going to super-glue it back on, and hope for the best, but Tef had other ideas!
I cant be bothered to explain, but since he's written a 'how-to' for the webby about it, I'll just nick what he's written! Here you go!

SnowTigeress · Brolly Dolly Joined: 23 May 2010 Karma :

I sat on my motorbike today!

https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/the%20pup/imag1656.jpg

Well, it LOOKS more like a motorbike at least, and it makes motorbikie noises.... OK, that was me.... A girl can dream, cant she?!

Anyway, been doing lots of scritty-phiffing-little jobs, so nothing majorly exiting to write home about.

https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Frame/imag1658.jpg

Bushes for the back end arrived on Monday morning. I was so exited I jumped on Tef lying in bed. He thought his luck was in, until he saw the jiffy bag....... He groaned, rolled over and went back to sleep!

So I put the kettle on, & went hunting for the linkage to put them in, but the old bushes were still in it, so I had to make coffee and wake the miserable old git up again!

After about three coffee's he was finally conciouse, and complaining that I was in hyper-drive!

So I sat and waited patiently, while he sat and measured each bush with his digital thingy-mi-bob..... and drew pictures of them.

THEN he had a look at the linkage... "Ah, RIGHT!" He said.... "Well, first of all we need to take th old ones out" I tapped my foot... I KNEW that! I just wanted to start bolting things together! Instead I watched and took pictures while he cut all the old bushes out. This is probably another 'How-To'.....

All the bushes in the linkage, apart from the one for the shock-absorber are a sort of plastic. Tef said that they are a complicated phenolic resin..... because when he cut into them, it smelled like hospitals..

https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Suspension/imag1640.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Suspension/imag1641.jpg

Anyway, the bushes are 'split' and inside the hole there is a ridge in the casting to seperate them, so Tef ground slots through them with the dremmel, in three places.

https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Suspension/imag1642.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Suspension/imag1643.jpg

Then levered out the bits (I know, Tef seems to be doing all the work! But, I am learning!..... Learning that I'm a bit heavy handed and would, as like have cut right through the links!)

https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Suspension/imag1644.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Suspension/imag1646.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Suspension/imag1647.jpg

The metalastic bush for the shock-absorber, is a single part, and big enough so Tef could cut through that the same way, in three places, but with a hack-saw, undone and threaded through the hole, and put back together.

Once they were all out though, I set about de-rusting them....... AGAIN! and painting them! While looking for all the inserts that go on the pins that go in the middle and bolt them together.... I THINK I have found them all!

https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Suspension/imag1659.jpg

But work stopped as I had to go for a Job interview! I dont like interviews, I go all to pieces, but it keeps the job-centre happy, & Tef dragged me there.....

BRILLIANT! Lady was great, she thought I was a 'Gem' and couldn't understand why no-one's given me a job.... well, that was until I started going to pieces! THEN she understood..... but she was really understanding and helpful, and offered me a JOB! Or at least a job trial.... so I went back to the job-centre to tell them..... they said I couldn't take it! I'd be £90 a week worse off! CAN YOU BELIEVE IT! They nag & hassle you to find a job, then when you DO.... tell you not to take it!

So back home, more bike bits! I tackled the head-lamp. When I took it apart to clean the chrome rim, the lense fell off! Was only held on with silicone! so I stuck it back together with LOADS more silicon!

https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Lights%20and%20wiring/imag1638.jpg

I polished the chrome rim first, and gave it a couple of coats of laquer so it stays shiney.

https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Lights%20and%20wiring/imag1661.jpg

And FINALLY, all the cases for the switches are painted! They have had I dont know how many coats of primer, then 'Not-Quite-Black', then been laquered, THEN had the lettering picked out in day-glo red, THEN given more laquer, then finished off in solvent resist laquer!

Dont LOOK any different to last time I took a photo of them...... but I CAN now start putting the switches back in!

https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag1648.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag1649.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag1652.jpg

Tapping out all the threaded holes, to make sure they were free of paint or corrosion.
I WAS going to rebuid the Brake Master-Cylinder next, & started by de-masking it & dressing the reservoir face.

https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag1653.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag1654.jpg

But I have lost the plot..... sorry typo, I meant POT.... I put the bits in when I took it apart, and cant find the rubber bit that goes between the reservoir and lid, or the little metal clippy thing that sits in the bottom!

So I went and bolted something to the frame!

https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/engine/imag1657.jpg

Tef figured out a top-mounting for the engine-bars for me, using half of two exhaust clamps. The smallest they had in the shop, though were 35mm, & Tef had measured the down-tube at 31mm. He'd told me to get ones a bit bigger, so we could use some rubber between the clamps and frame, but we thought that might be a bit too much! Tef, as ever though found a way, cutting some plastic from one of his famouse stak-a-boxes, and heating it up with his hot-air-gun & moulding it into the cup of the brackets!

So, I took all the engine bolts out, one by one, and coppa-slipped them, and routed the cable for the starter, and then, after a bit of mucking about, cutting some M8 rod to length, had my shiney bits!

Not bad, hugh? Remember, they were an e-bay bargain, New-Old-Stock for the earlier T-Shock CB125T, so we didn't expect them to bolt straight up to mine, but that bracket looks neat enough.... just hope that they dont stop the exhaust going on now!

https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Frame/imag1655.jpg

Anyway, put the tank & seat on to see how it looked, and I have to say.... its looking a BIT more like a motorbike!
____________________
Real bikers build their own Renovated and Riding a 1986 Honda CB125TD-C called the Pup. Full Licence 13/09/2012, 1994 Moto Guzzi 750 Strada
Can-Do Girl that does spanners TOO!
TheSmiler: binning it is better than going around a roundabout the wrong way

SnowTigeress · Brolly Dolly Joined: 23 May 2010 Karma :

Doin the Brake Master-Cylinder

https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imak1590.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag1654.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag1653.jpg

sanding the paint off the end to have it clean for screwing the lid on

https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag1652.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag1651.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag1649.jpg

After Painting, the cylinder was 'fettled', all tapped holes re-tapped to ensure that the threads were clean, and the mating surface of the reservoir dressed on fine wetted wet & dry sand-paper to get a good seal. This is good-practice, even if the cylinder has not been painted or coated.

https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag1707.jpg
master-cylinder all ready to be put back together

https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag1706.jpg

With the cylinder casting fettled, the internal 'gubbins' can be fitted. First thing, is to soak the new seals in a little new brake fluid. DO NOT let them stay in the brake fluid too long, this is JUST to lubricate them, and get a little seal sweller in to soften them. IF they are left to soak in the fluid too-long they will swell too much, and become useless like old seals.

https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag1708.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag1709.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag1710.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag1711.jpg

First you need to make sure that the piston seal is facing the right direction on the piston. Refer to the MANUAL or the instructions that come with the over-haul kit to ensure you have it the right way round.... NOT the old seal. It may NOT have been fitted correctly to begin with, and wear and sweller can distort it making it appear contrary to how it should be.

The seal will be tight on the piston shaft, and you'll probably have to manipulate it over or past some steps in the diameter, that can be quite large. THIS is why you soaked the seal, so that it is soft enough and slippery enough to be manipulated into place without tearing or snapping or snagging.

As shown I carefully used an old small screwdriver to lever the seal over steps and into its rebate. CARE must be taken NOT to stab or nick the new seal, do NOT push with the point of a pointy thing or screw-driver!

https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag1712.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag1713.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Brakes/imag1715.jpg

Once the seal is fitted to the piston, the piston can be fitted into the cylinder, and locked in place with the retaining circlip. As before, it can be helpful to lock the piston down to hold it in place and relieve pressure on the circlip, by pushing it all the way down and using something through the reservoir port to lock it in place, like the back of a drill bit. again, as for removal, circlip pliers or patent pointy-thing, initiative and patience may be used to locate the circlip.

ENSURE that the circlip IS properly seated and will NOT let the piston come out of the cylinder before deeming the job done!
The dust boot can then be fitted over the end of the piston, a little grease can help it seal and deter corrosion. Be careful if using something pointy to seat it in its rebate, not to tar the thin rubber.
The cylinder is now pretty much reconditioned, and all that needs doing is making sure everything else is put back in in place, in this case the clip over the reservoir port, inside the reservoir, the reservoir seal and lid.

Putting the Back Back On

The back end of the bike has been some-what delayed in progressing. a large impediment to this was we discovered it needed RATHER a lot of RATHER expensive new bushes.
We had planned on renewing them all, we just never really realised that they were nearly all 'split' bushes, so there were twice the number anticipated, and that rather than being two or three pounds each, they were damn nearly a tenner!
This made them about as expensive as the rear shock-absorber, which was ordered early on for £80!
Anyway, Tef kept holding off ordering the bushes as we had plenty to get on with before we needed them, but I was anxious to make sure we COULD get them and that we stood a fair chance of being able to get the bike built back up and working, so I ordered them anyway.
They arrived from Dave Silver Spares a few days later, in Jiffy-Bag. I was so exited when they got here that I could go bolt BIG chunks back on the bike, I grabbed the envelope almost before it was through the letter-box and ran upstairs and jumped up and down on the bed!
Tef, was still IN the bed.
There was a moments flash of alarm, as he opened his bleary eyes, then a flash of excitement, but then he saw the envelope, realised his luck wasn't in, rolled over and went back to sleep!

https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Suspension/imag1658.jpg

So I put the kettle on, & went hunting for the linkage to put them in, but the old bushes were still in it. So I had to make coffee and wake the miserable old git up again!
After about three coffee's he was finally conscious, and complaining that I was in hyper-drive!

So I sat and waited patiently, while he sat and measured each bush with his digital thingy-mi-bob..... and drew pictures of them.

THEN he had a look at the linkage... "Ah, RIGHT!" He said.... "Well, first of all we need to take the old ones out" I tapped my foot... I KNEW that! I just wanted to start bolting things together! Instead I watched and took pictures while he cut all the old bushes out. This is probably another 'How-To'.....

All the bushes in the linkage, apart from the one for the shock-absorber are a sort of plastic. Tef said that they are a complicated phenolic resin..... because when he cut into them, it smelled like hospitals.

https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Suspension/imag1640.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Suspension/imag1641.jpg

Anyway, the bushes are 'split' and inside the hole there is a ridge in the casting to separate them, so Tef ground slots through them with the dremmel, in three places.

https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Suspension/imag1642.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Suspension/imag1643.jpg

Then levered out the bits (I know, Tef seems to be doing all the work! But, I am learning!..... Learning that I'm a bit heavy handed and would, as like have cut right through the links!)

https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Suspension/imag1646.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Suspension/imag1647.jpg
The metalastic bush for the shock-absorber, is a single part, and big enough so Tef could cut through that the same way, in three places, but with a hack-saw, undone and threaded through the hole, and put back together.
Once they were all out though, I set about de-rusting them....... AGAIN! and painting them! While looking for all the inserts that go on the pins that go in the middle and bolt them together.... I THINK I have found them all!
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Suspension/imag1659.jpg
Some more paint was applied to the suspension links after the old bushes were removed, and before turning my attention to getting Tef to help me fit the new ones. His words, "They're plastic, & we have to PRESS them in, GENTLY..... smack'em with a hammer & they'll shatter like .......Well, my word, GLASS, as I think its more suitable. What HE said wouldn't have shattered
so much as splattered! Pieces of wood on top of the bush and against the swing-arm are essential to spread the force over the bush and avoid chipping or cracking it by applying a bit too much force too suddenly.

https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Suspension/imag1718.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Suspension/imag1719.jpg
After cleaning up the holes for the bushes with a round file, so that they were free of paint, & giving them a light smear with oil, Tef lined the bushes up and pushed them in loosely by hand. They didn't go very far, because they are a very tight fit, but there's a little chamfer on the corner so they sort of wedged in place, & then Tef lined up a G-Clamp and some blocks of wood to press them in gently, adjusting & tweeking to get them stared for me so they went in 'square'.
Left is the outer bush on one side of the swing arm going in, Right is the inner on the same side. Both legs of the swing arm had to be done in the same way.
There were four more bushes in the swing-arm, again two sides per leg for the wish-bone link bushes.

https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Suspension/imag1727.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Suspension/imag1733.jpg
It was pretty much the same thing to fit the other plastic bushes into the other holes in the Suspension Links. The only difference was that some of them fitted into recessed holes, so to get them all the way in, after getting them as far as we could with wood over then end, and having got them in nice and square, I had to just finish them the last few mm with an old socket that could fit inside the recess in the casting.

https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Suspension/imag1730.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Suspension/imag1731.jpg
Lastly we did the 'Metalastic' bush for the Damper bottom mount, on the Wish-Bone link. Metalastic bushes aren't as fragile as the plastic ones used everywhere else. They are metal & rubber, but they are almost as awkward! They are made from two metal tubes. The inner one is set in rubber in the outer-one, and the inner tube is wider than the outer. When you press one in, you HAVE to press ONLY on the outer tube. If you press on the inner tube that's sticking out, the outer-tube will tend to stick in the hole you are trying to push it into, and you'll first bend the rubber between the two, and eventually the rubber will tear, and you'll push the inner tube out the other side.... and it wont work very well! So you have to use some kind of packing, and old sockets work well, to go over the inner tube and give you something to press against the outer tube, and push that all the way in, and it all works a lot better. Only you need 'something' (like a socket again!) both sides so that you don't end up pushing the outer tube all the way into the hole, getting stuck half way when the wider inner gets stuck against whatever you are covering the hole with.

https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Suspension/imag1716.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Suspension/imag1717.jpg

Next, Tef had an 'idea' to keep my lubberly new Shock absorber Unit clean and Muck-Free, when sat under the bike. Idea was to wrap it up in some rubber cut out of an old inner tube! Seemed reasonable. First of all Tef cut a length of inner tube just a bit longer than the shock-unit, then I sprayed the shock with LOTS of chain lube, so that any moisture wouldn't send it rusty
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Suspension/imag1722.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Suspension/imag1723.jpg
Then I pulled the rubber over the shock-absorber like a condom over..... well, you should know what a condoms supposed to cover! Then we tied the ends of the rubber with cable-ties, like it was a Christmas Cracker. My shock is a non-adjustable unit. Tef said, that adjustable ones have a collar round the bottom you turn to adjust the pre-load on the spring, and if we'd done this on one of them, we'd either have to be careful so that the rubber left the collar exposed so it could be adjusted, or the rubber left un-tied, so it could be lifted to get at the collar. But I don't have that worry.

https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Suspension/imag1725.jpg
https://s1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/Suspension/imag1726.jpg
Finally, the ends of the rubber were folded back over the cable ties to expose the bush eyes so it could be bolted in. Hopefully this little mod will keep muck off the damper rod and help the shock absorber last longer.
____________________
Real bikers build their own Renovated and Riding a 1986 Honda CB125TD-C called the Pup. Full Licence 13/09/2012, 1994 Moto Guzzi 750 Strada
Can-Do Girl that does spanners TOO!
TheSmiler: binning it is better than going around a roundabout the wrong way

hmmmnz · Super Spammer Joined: 22 Aug 2006 Karma :

this is one legendary build,
the sheer amount of time is impressive enough,
keep it up, you are almost there,

what are you going to do with your time once your done??? it'll be coming onto winter... another project perhaps??
____________________
the humans are dead
I kick arse for the lord
Wiring Diagrams BIDNIP it bitches

SnowTigeress · Brolly Dolly Joined: 23 May 2010 Karma :

Teflon-Mike · tl;dr Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :

number_two · Borekit Bruiser Joined: 04 Apr 2010 Karma :

Nice project and an insane write up style. You two are nuts but strangely loveable and addictive to say the least

neil. · World Chat Champion Joined: 24 Feb 2008 Karma :

This is absolutely fantastic but I hate you as it's taken up so much of my time to read and look at all the pics, my kids are now starving as they haven't eaten in days. I especially love the 'Engine Torture Meter'. Thumbs Up

____________________
CBT February 2008 | A2 June 2008 | Yamaha YBR125 (written off) | Honda CBF125 (current)