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CBR600F Valve Clearances

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aha-shake
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PostPosted: 16:46 - 04 Feb 2011    Post subject: CBR600F Valve Clearances Reply with quote

Lo all,

Does anyone know how much I should expect to pay a garage to do my valve clearances? And it is something I should go to Honda for or will any bike garage do?

Much appreciated,

Shake
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 18:49 - 04 Feb 2011    Post subject: Re: CBR600F Valve Clearances Reply with quote

aha-shake wrote:
Lo all,

Does anyone know how much I should expect to pay a garage to do my valve clearances? And it is something I should go to Honda for or will any bike garage do?

Much appreciated,

Shake



Any bike garage will be fine, it isn't exactly difficult it just has the potential to go horribly wrong.


Are you planning on having the 'full service' done whilst the valves are being done?

Would expect somewhere between 300-400 for a 16k service, less if you just want the valves done. Prob takes a mechanic about 3 hours to check the valves, a couple more if things need to be adjusted as it involves removing the cams and replacing shims.

How handy are you with the spanners?
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 18:58 - 04 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

What year is the bike? It does make a difference to the cost. I've heard of dealer quotes around 600 to do the 16k service on a '99/2000. As Donny said independent dealer will be 200-300 just to check.

Most people can do it themselves in a day or two taking it really steady.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 19:03 - 04 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

IIRC it's a 2003 model.


A few things take a bit longer i.e. you need to put a bead of sealant on parts of the valve cover and you need to feck around with fuel pouring out to get the tank off as there is no stopcock. Might need to drain the coolant to get the throttle bodies off too thinking about it.
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whitedevil
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PostPosted: 03:26 - 05 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Im getting mine checked next week, guy said they charge 35 an hour and it will take about 2 hours to check them, and if they need adjusting it will be a few hours more + cost of shims etc...

This is a small independent bike garage that does the work out front not hidden away so you can see that the work is done and to a high standard, not like some places that probably dont even check just have a listen to the engine and charge you a few hundred

Try and find a reliable local garage mate.
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hmmmnz
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PostPosted: 03:57 - 05 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

it only a half hour job to check them and may be another hour to change out the shims,
600 quid is a stupid price to pay for a full service,

find a small bike garage or may be someone in your area who's on the forum could help you out,
its not a difficult job, nor that time consuming,
its just an arse of a job
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 11:11 - 05 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmmmnz wrote:
it only a half hour job to check them and may be another hour to change out the shims

Laughing
Takes longer than that just to get the access to the valve cover. In reality someone who knows what they are doing is going to struggle to check them, correctly, in less than two hours. This includes reassembly.


You need the correct tools.
On the CBR you need a specific plug spanner other wise you won't be able to get to them, no problem if you have the original toolkit.

You need a torque wrench, 10 -20nm.

You need a set of feeler gauges, sounds obviously but consider that the inlet gap is 0.17-0.23mm and the exhaust is 0.25-0.31mm. Most gauges have 0.15, 0.20, 0.25, 0.30 0.40 which is ok but not very precise, especially if you have never used them before. I made my own for in between values, yes I am that obsessive.

If your checking them properly then you should remove the cam chain tensioner so you need a means of retracting the pin and holding it in position when refitting.

For reassembly you need some RTV sealant for the valve cover gasket.

Finally if you do have to change any shims they cost around 5 each.
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woll
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PostPosted: 18:54 - 05 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="Marki"]
hmmmnz wrote:
You need a set of feeler gauges, sounds obviously but consider that the inlet gap is 0.17-0.23mm and the exhaust is 0.25-0.31mm. Most gauges have 0.15, 0.20, 0.25, 0.30 0.40 which is ok but not very precise, especially if you have never used them before. I made my own for in between values, yes I am that obsessive.

If your checking them properly then you should remove the cam chain tensioner so you need a means of retracting the pin and holding it in position when refitting.

For reassembly you need some RTV sealant for the valve cover gasket.

Finally if you do have to change any shims they cost around 5 each.

Fancy doing mine sometime in the future? I'll help, i've never done shimmed valves before. And seeing as it's my main run around i don't want to fuck it up.
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 19:08 - 05 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

No problem.

To be honest I never even noticed you had a CBR Laughing

The truth is that they are pretty good engines and you do find a lot of people who have never had to change the shims. If you look at the pictures in this thread http://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=189832 you can see the damage that I found on mine. I wouldn't have noticed if I hadn't decided to change the shims, the bike was allegedly happy to 150mph without any strange noises or signs of damage.
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woll
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PostPosted: 23:13 - 05 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marki wrote:
To be honest I never even noticed you had a CBR Laughing


Only had it a few weeks, got fed up of the gasser playing up so lent the money of my grandma, need to finish putting the gasser back together and sell it to pay her back.
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 00:47 - 06 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

You want to show me a picture of it?
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aha-shake
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PostPosted: 12:46 - 06 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the replies Gents, with regards to the 16k service, im on 15k and thats why im starting to think about the Valves. What other stuff do they do on a 16k? I can change oil, plugs and filter myself, and the pads are fine at the moment.

Im ok with a spanner, I've got the original underseat toolkit so hopefully have that plug spanner, but I dont have feeler guages etc.. And I dont have the faintest idea what a shim is.

Cheers, Shake Thumbs Up
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aha-shake
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PostPosted: 12:48 - 06 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

And Donny,

Why, oh WHY is there no stopcock?! I was told that it was supposed to not piss fuel when removed as it was a diaphragm tank... but when doing the plugs it was an absolute nightmare, even managed to get some in my eye! Mr. Green

I just assumed mine was fooked!
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 09:54 - 07 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

aha-shake wrote:
And Donny,

Why, oh WHY is there no stopcock?! I was told that it was supposed to not piss fuel when removed as it was a diaphragm tank... but when doing the plugs it was an absolute nightmare, even managed to get some in my eye! Mr. Green

I just assumed mine was fooked!


Haha, I assume because the fuel pump is integrated into the tank the fuel line is pressurised and Honda couldn't be arsed to fit a tap upstream of the line. It is REALLY fecking annoying though, fuel goes everywhere whenever I remove the tank.

What I do now is avoid removing the tank at all costs, if you undo all the bolts and stick a towel under the bottom of the tank by the seat to prevent paint damage you can normally get to most things by just raising the tank up using ratchet straps i.e.

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af271/DonnyBrago/5.jpg

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af271/DonnyBrago/6.jpg

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af271/DonnyBrago/7.jpg

Other things at 16k would be a full fluids change (oil, coolant, brake fluid, fork oil) and to strip and clean the calipers, there is often plenty of crap behind the seals by now.


Last edited by DrDonnyBrago on 13:28 - 07 Feb 2011; edited 1 time in total
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Artur
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PostPosted: 13:13 - 07 Feb 2011    Post subject: Re: CBR600F Valve Clearances Reply with quote

aha-shake wrote:
Lo all,

Does anyone know how much I should expect to pay a garage to do my valve clearances? (...)

Shake



I was just about to do this same question. Anyone knows?
It's for a Hornet 600cc 2004.

Thanks Thumbs Up
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 13:33 - 07 Feb 2011    Post subject: Re: CBR600F Valve Clearances Reply with quote

Artur wrote:
aha-shake wrote:
Lo all,

Does anyone know how much I should expect to pay a garage to do my valve clearances? (...)

Shake



I was just about to do this same question. Anyone knows?
It's for a Hornet 600cc 2004.

Thanks Thumbs Up


You would save a small amount of time as there are no fairings but the engine is basically the same as the older CBR unit, would take about 3 hours still so expect to pay 200+, more if things need adjusting.



For the OP, here is an idea of the work involved:
http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85499&page=1
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woll
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PostPosted: 19:23 - 07 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marki wrote:
You want to show me a picture of it?

Well seeing as you asked...
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs018.snc6/166817_10150120942597079_602342078_7631788_1448302_n.jpg
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Noxious89123
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PostPosted: 00:14 - 08 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I paid 250 to have mine done at about 17,500 miles.

Which reminds me, the bike is on 31k, so will need doing again soon. Arse.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 10:15 - 08 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Noxious89123 wrote:
I paid 250 to have mine done at about 17,500 miles.

Which reminds me, the bike is on 31k, so will need doing again soon. Arse.


How handy are you with a spanner?

Might be time to start doing it yerself, 250 could get you a lot of tools Thumbs Up .
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Robby
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PostPosted: 13:47 - 08 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

For those of you that had them checked at 16k, was there any appreciable wear or adjustment needed?

Its the sort of job that can cost a lot and have plenty of potential to cock it up, and as I understand you'll often find that they don't need doing anyway. Not planning on checking the ones on my CB500 any time soon, and it's about due now. Runs well, pulls strongly, engine makes the right noises and the plugs are the right colour.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 14:03 - 08 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
For those of you that had them checked at 16k, was there any appreciable wear or adjustment needed?

Its the sort of job that can cost a lot and have plenty of potential to cock it up, and as I understand you'll often find that they don't need doing anyway. Not planning on checking the ones on my CB500 any time soon, and it's about due now. Runs well, pulls strongly, engine makes the right noises and the plugs are the right colour.


Not a CBR but when me and my brother (bacon) checked his valve clearances at 18k on his zx-7r a few were out of spec.

Is a CB500 shim under bucket too? I kinda assumed they would be adjustable tappets in which case it is a piece of cake. Access looks pretty good too on the CB500 making it even quicker.
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 14:33 - 08 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've done three CBR's now.
1 bike had 17k and another had 26k. Neither needed doing. The higher mileage bike didn't have service history so may have had it done in the past but there were no obvious signs.

I did change them on my own bike, which was at 15.5k but that was down to me being obcessive, they were all in spec just that a couple were close to the limits. Being a new bike to me I always like to get them as good as possible. As it worked out I ended up changing the head due to a Honda manufacturing fault.
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aha-shake
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PostPosted: 23:19 - 09 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome thanks very much for the link to the how-to, couple of questions, what are the 4 analogue gauges he uses? Do I have to replace the CCT, as I already did this about 2.5k ago.

Cheers

Shake Mr. Green
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 09:46 - 10 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

aha-shake wrote:
Awesome thanks very much for the link to the how-to, couple of questions, what are the 4 analogue gauges he uses? Do I have to replace the CCT, as I already did this about 2.5k ago.

Cheers

Shake Mr. Green


No you don't need to replace the CCT, but you will need to take it out, wind it back in with a screwdriver and find something suitable to fit down the end to stop it popping back out until you have reassembled it. The piece of metal that came in your new CCT is perfect if you still have it.

The analogue gauges are carb balancers, being used to balance the throttle bodies. They are known to go out of balance after removing them and just over time, this makes them all pull in the same amount of air.

You can get away by doing the valves without them, but if you do want to balance the TBs then the Morgan CarbTune seems to be universally accepted as one of the best for the money.
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whitedevil
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PostPosted: 15:44 - 21 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well i had my valves on my cbr600 done last week and i was charged 246, that included 4 1/2 hours labour and 14 new shims as only 2 could be swapped, really glad i had it done as all the intakes were dangerously tight.
My bike has nearly 22k on the clock so it was well overdue the 16k service when they're supposed to be checked.
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