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grahamd1 |
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grahamd1 Trackday Trickster
Joined: 04 Aug 2011 Karma :
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Posted: 13:23 - 30 Nov 2011 Post subject: |
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Talk about lucky AND timely.
Yesterday I stripped down the front headlight, fearing the worse looking at the rust and the ones for sale on fleabay looked no better. Sure enough rusted to buggery, worse still someone has used body filler on the chrome headlamp surround, so even if I rubbed it down I doubt it could be re-chromed its like a colinder, full of holes. Another look on fleabay, and like I said they dont look much better, well to be honest it is a 40+ year old part, and the Taiwan ones look KACK, probably coke tins sprayed in chrome paint, or plastic, so no ta.
Then last night did yet another search on fleabay, and BINGO found this (just listed minutes before)
https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/nos1.jpg
Best part ?
BRAND NEW, ORIGINAL HONDA PART in the bag, and ?????
the guy is only 3 miles away, yep clicked the buy it now (£10) without hesitation, and went and collected today.
FUCKING AWESOME (excuse the language, but WOW). ____________________ XV1100, XV750
CD175 (Rebuild)
CF70 (Chaly - Rebuild), |
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grahamd1 |
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grahamd1 Trackday Trickster
Joined: 04 Aug 2011 Karma :
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Posted: 09:02 - 01 Dec 2011 Post subject: |
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Everyday I trawl the net looking for my ever growing list of parts (rather have REAL parts in a less than good condition than go for far east plastic versions), and last night hit the jackpot.
My handlebars, as you would expect are CRAP, not only has the chrome completly lifted off, but it has rustied in places too, and having saved the switches and throttle slide etc, it would be a shame to have to put refurbed parts on a rubbish bar. Choices were either re-chrome (silly prices), or find an alternative, problem is the CD has a slide throttle (elongated holes in bars), and thats damn rare these days, I did get one from fleabay for a CB125S (smaller brother), but they are too high, and that would mean having to lengthen cables. Needless to say, last night I found one.
https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/hbars.jpg
Next I needed a new brake pedal (the exisiting one has not only rusted badly, but also it looks like someone has slid the length of England on the bikes side, talk about bent to buggery. Again choices were limited, untill last night.
https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/brake.jpg
And the final part was an amazing bonus! I'd heard that front mud guards are like hens teeth, and are just not to be found, I had made enquiries and sure enough "Fat Chance", even asked a guy in Canada how much to ship the one he was listing on fleabay, he wanted over £70 just to ship it!! Mine doesnt even have and old one I could repair
https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/mg2.jpg
So imagine my shock when I got this onehttps://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/mg.jpg
And its in the UK, and described as "recast and painted it was fitted and used for a short time and then taken back of as owner / friend decided to fit a different type of forks ect. It fits very well and no rusting"
BARGIN ____________________ XV1100, XV750
CD175 (Rebuild)
CF70 (Chaly - Rebuild), |
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grahamd1 |
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grahamd1 Trackday Trickster
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Frost |
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Frost World Chat Champion
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grahamd1 |
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grahamd1 Trackday Trickster
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UnspeedySam |
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UnspeedySam World Chat Champion
Joined: 26 Nov 2009 Karma :
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grahamd1 |
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grahamd1 Trackday Trickster
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Posted: 20:33 - 02 Dec 2011 Post subject: |
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beechbone wrote: | Great project. Will be beautiful when finished. Might look at something similar in a few years...but probably 2-stroke.
On a slightly off-topic note. I'll be hand stripping my RXS frame...probably starting this weekend. How long did it take and what was your exact technique? Nitromors then much use of a wire brush, followed by wet and dry paper? | j
Exactly as you say, nmoors, wait an hour, rub down with wire wheel on drill, more stripper, wait an hour, do it again, and again, and again. So far about 25hrs inc swingarm brackets etc. Now I'm ready to start sanding. ____________________ XV1100, XV750
CD175 (Rebuild)
CF70 (Chaly - Rebuild), |
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grahamd1 |
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grahamd1 Trackday Trickster
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grahamd1 |
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grahamd1 Trackday Trickster
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Frost |
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Frost World Chat Champion
Joined: 26 May 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 19:04 - 06 Dec 2011 Post subject: |
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Yup that's how they work, and inner and outer sleeve. I usually get them out by heating the outer part then putting it in a vise with a larger bit of pipe on one side touching only the swinging arm, then a socket or something on the other side touching only the outer of the bush. I put the new ones in the same way but i stick them in the freezer for a few hours before hand and heat the swing arm with a blow torch.
Really it should be done with a hydralic press, but that's no fun |
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grahamd1 |
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grahamd1 Trackday Trickster
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CHR15 |
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CHR15 Turbo nutter bastard
Joined: 14 Jun 2008 Karma :
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Posted: 20:13 - 06 Dec 2011 Post subject: |
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get them glowing and quench them in proper ice cold water.
then get a hacksaw blade, thread it through, reattach the handle and carefully sawcut through. then again at 180 opposite. then chisel out carefully. ____________________ Turbocharged drag thing / project death weapon / GK73A
Ste: I'm not entirely sure how you'd go about verbally abusing someone with a potato but I'm sure it's possible. |
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Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike tl;dr
Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :
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Posted: 20:32 - 06 Dec 2011 Post subject: |
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CHR15 wrote: | get them glowing and quench them in proper ice cold water.
then get a hacksaw blade, thread it through, reattach the handle and carefully sawcut through. then again at 180 opposite. then chisel out carefully. |
That's my preffered technique too, but I frequently make three cuts at 120 deg, so as to take out a smaller leaf, with less corrosion behind it, and then theres a bigger gap to get behind to pry out the two remaining leafs.
Dremmel?
You will be there for DAYS, and all you are likely to achieve is an awful lot of dust and stone shafts! Believe me I have tried!
You would be better trimming a small grinding stone to something a bit smaller than the ID of the sleeve and using on a flex-shaft in a drill,; but again, lots of dust and lots of grinding hours. Saw & Chissel takes them out for least cutting, and you dont risk over sizing the eye so much. ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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Frost |
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Frost World Chat Champion
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Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike tl;dr
Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :
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grahamd1 |
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grahamd1 Trackday Trickster
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Posted: 17:33 - 07 Dec 2011 Post subject: |
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OK, heres what we did (Farm hand and I), tried knocking the shell of the bushes out of the swingarm, not a chance, tried cutting gently a couple of slots inside the shell (after heating and cooling), avoiding the actual steel arms, again not a chance, still not moving. In the end heated the arm till it glowed with the farm cutting torch, then hit them with a socket that was 26mm across, over a long socket that was smaller than the arm, but larger than 26mm, bingo out they poped. WAHA
https://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll431/grahamdrry/CD175/IMAG0342.jpg
David Silver tells me these are the very last two bushes in Europe, so no preasure there then ____________________ XV1100, XV750
CD175 (Rebuild)
CF70 (Chaly - Rebuild), |
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Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike tl;dr
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Frost |
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Frost World Chat Champion
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grahamd1 |
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grahamd1 Trackday Trickster
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Posted: 20:57 - 07 Dec 2011 Post subject: |
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OK, whilst I have the bushes in my grubby little hands
Internal diameter 13.5mm
diameter of complete bush 26mm
length of outer bush 42mm
length of inner bush 48.5mm
OK, now my next question, been talking to a finishing company about 4 miles from me, that has come highly recommended by a few people that sell refurbed/rebuilt bikes for a living, I spoke to the company and they told me I could have my frame either powder coated (cheaper option) or Stove enamalled, thoughts ?
I like the idea of a local company as I can take other parts to have them blasted/coated as needed, also they specialise in plastic stripping and painting, so might be handy when it comes to painting. ____________________ XV1100, XV750
CD175 (Rebuild)
CF70 (Chaly - Rebuild), |
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pepperami |
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pepperami Super Spammer
Joined: 17 Jan 2010 Karma :
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Posted: 21:23 - 07 Dec 2011 Post subject: |
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learning much keep it up ____________________ I am the sum total of my own existence, what went before makes me who I am now! |
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Frost |
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Frost World Chat Champion
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grahamd1 |
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grahamd1 Trackday Trickster
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Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike tl;dr
Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :
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Posted: 01:39 - 08 Dec 2011 Post subject: |
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grahamd1 wrote: | Frost wrote: | Get the frame powder coated i'd say. The finish is really nice. Stove enamel sounds like it's done to be heat proof? |
I also read that enamell can chip off and is a sod to match/patch |
Plastic Powder-Coating, is the modern equivilent of stove enamel.
Its essentially a similar process, only the coating material is different. In stove enameling its an enamel paint, that contains ground glass to give chrystal hard but prone to chipping finish.
Plastic coating is slightly less heat intensive, and uses a modern prtro-chem plastic, probably polyethylene bases thats a bit more 'plastic' (in the original sense of the word, 'deformable') strangely enough, so less prone to chipping.
Not immune though, and depends on the actual plastic composition, and how much 'recovered' plastic from over spray or dipping thats in the fresh.
Stove-enamel is hard, and keys brilliantly, and if it chips, often you only loose the surface, enamel remains keyed to the metal under the wound. In a larger chip, and you do expose metal, the wound area is normally confined just to the chip area, you might not get much 'creep' lifting more enamel around the wound, or if you do, it will progress slowly.
Plastic coat; more resiliant to chiping; but it will flake or chip, where its cut through, and it can tear or flake. It generally doesn't adhere to the metal as well.
If it is chipped or torn or just cracks, then moisture can get underneath, and rust can 'creep' underneath very quickly; like kiddies climbing frame or patio furnature left outside a few winters.
On old brazed frames, enamel was actually liked for 'crazing', if the frame flexed or fractured, then the enamel would craze around the stress point, or actually crack with the metal.
On powder coated frames; if the frame flexes, the plastic coatring will give with it, and there wont necesserily be any 'tell' or witness in the coating.
My sport was classic trials, and restoring comp-dirt bikes, often advised NOT to powder coat if they were to be competed, for this reason, and there were reports of bikes cracking frames, and it not being detected under coating until engines were taken out to investigate wobbles, and down pipes dropped off and things!
Its pro's and cons. Enamel is a nice finish, and many show builders preffer it to plastic, becouse it is a more demanding and 'deeper' finish.
For an old Benley, either is a measure of over restoring; frame would originally have been plain painted and that would have been that.
What do you want to achieve?
If you want brownie points in concourse; blast and spray.
If you want a show finish, enamel.
If you want a practical lasting finish, plastic coat. ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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grahamd1 |
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grahamd1 Trackday Trickster
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grahamd1 |
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grahamd1 Trackday Trickster
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Posted: 19:38 - 08 Dec 2011 Post subject: |
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OK, deal done.
I took my frame, swingarm, swingarm/brake steady bracket, 6 engine head steady brackets and two rear foot rest brackets along to my local company. Asked for the owner (Martin) who not only came out to the car, but also carried EVERYTHING into his LARGE company, and explained step by step the process involved, I asked about masking threads etc, and was reasured bikes are nothing new to them, and he and several of his staff are bikers (Result), and understand what goes where, and what can and what doesnt need doing. I showed him my concern about the rust under the mudguards, "not a problem" he says, and shows me pictures of some even worse, that him and his staff have blasted and even hand sanded before treating.
So I asks what do I get for me money and how much will it cost?
EVERY part (inc the frame) will be blasted and acid then alkaline dipped, primed, and finally powder coated in gloss black (and its a real black). And how much says I?
£100 notes for ALL the parts, and if I get the battery box and lower stearing yoke over to him by tuesday (when he will start work on my parts), they will be included, BLOODY RESULT.
Now I regret wasting my time for the last two weeks stripping the paint off by hand, to say nothing of the cost of nitromoors and wirewheel brushes, electric my time etc, and I won't do that again...when for 100notes someone else can strip/clean and then prime and paint a bike for a damn lot less than it would cost me, to say nothing of how it would look if I did it by hand.
Very tempted now to also get them to paint my colour parts for me as well as they can colour match. ____________________ XV1100, XV750
CD175 (Rebuild)
CF70 (Chaly - Rebuild), |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 12 years, 143 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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