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Bike didn't start this morning - guessing electrical - fixed

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Jefr0
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PostPosted: 12:56 - 27 Sep 2011    Post subject: Bike didn't start this morning - guessing electrical - fixed Reply with quote

Hi all

On my Honda CBR 600 F '91, I use it 5 days a week commuting.

Went to start it this morning and didn't even try to. The dash lights came on slowly, then I pushed the starter and they faded almost off.

I'm assuming it's regulator/rectifier.

Is there any obvious signs. For example if the rectifer has burn't out would it be a case of replacing that and sorted or will there be other things to replace?

Otherwise it's in the shop to find out Sad

Thanks

Jeff
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Last edited by Jefr0 on 08:18 - 29 Sep 2011; edited 1 time in total
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mjn51
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PostPosted: 13:00 - 27 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

How old is the battery, are the battery connections tight,
get the battery checked !
M.
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Bendy
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PostPosted: 13:05 - 27 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd assume knackered battery before reg/rec.
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Jefr0
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PostPosted: 13:14 - 27 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh right didn't think it would be the battery.

It's a gel battery I got a couple years back.

Is there anything I can do to test the battery is ok?
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GSTEEL32
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PostPosted: 13:32 - 27 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

dead battery. Multimeter across the battery will prove beyond doubt.

My guess is that its finally given up the ghost.

Might be worth getting a new gel battery anyway as its coming up to winter......
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FirebladeRuss
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PostPosted: 14:00 - 27 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Totally agree.

Mine did something similar a few weeks back. Fine one day, dead as a dodo the next.

New battery and everything's back to normal. It's getting colder at nights now, so that's probably why the sudden death.
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Jefr0
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PostPosted: 14:01 - 27 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the help!

Now obv I can just install a new battery and away I go.

But what can I do to make sure it is the battery and not the charging system itself?
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FirebladeRuss
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PostPosted: 14:09 - 27 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could measure the voltage across the battery terminals before you install it, then measure again with the battery hooked up and the bike ticking over - i guess? That's what I'd do on my car anyway.
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Jefr0
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PostPosted: 14:41 - 27 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

RussGZ wrote:
You could measure the voltage across the battery terminals before you install it, then measure again with the battery hooked up and the bike ticking over - i guess? That's what I'd do on my car anyway.


Cheers Russ

Is that just a measure for a new battery rather than my current one as it won't start?

My Dad isn't sure how to test it either but said if I could find out maybe step by step he will understand and can have a go at it.

Thanks
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FirebladeRuss
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PostPosted: 14:44 - 27 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's no point in measuring the current battery, as clearly it's goosed.

For example, (car example, i'm afraid, as it's all i know!) a new car battery off the shelf should read around 12v. When connected to the car, and the car is running, the alternator will be charging the battery and so it'll usually read around 13.5v - 14v.

My thoughts were apply the same principle to the bike.

https://www.ehow.com/how_5877475_measure-car-battery-multi_meter.html

It says here to not do it with the engine running - which is fine if you want just the battery voltage (will be the same as measuring it not connected to the bike) - having the engine running, do the same thing and you'll see a slightly higher voltage reading if the charging system's ok.
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Jefr0
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PostPosted: 14:47 - 27 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry yes I understand that. So what I'm trying to say is you can guarentee it's 100% the battery at fault rather than the charging system itself?
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Martay
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PostPosted: 14:47 - 27 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Deffo sounds like the battery.

If you'd like to check the reg/rec, you need to get the bike running.
Can you bump start the bike?
If so, check the voltage before and after, with the engine running, check it doesnt rise over 14 orso volts with the engine running or revving.

EDIT: ^ beat me to it!
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FirebladeRuss
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PostPosted: 15:08 - 27 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jefr0 wrote:
Sorry yes I understand that. So what I'm trying to say is you can guarentee it's 100% the battery at fault rather than the charging system itself?


Well it's more likely to be the battery for starters, and IMO, yes, if you have a battery on your kitchen table that you measure and it reads (for example) 12v. Then you connect it to your bike, start it up and measure across the terminals again and it says (example) 13v, then it's pretty appararent the battery is being charged.
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Jefr0
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PostPosted: 15:14 - 27 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for your help Russ (and the others in the thread)

Much appreciated, will try it out and get back.
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FirebladeRuss
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PostPosted: 18:51 - 27 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

No worries fella
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Jefr0
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PostPosted: 20:35 - 27 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

UPDATE

I put the battery on a trickle charger (optimate) for about 3 hours.

Came back to it and it showed a green light (charged)

Went to start it on the button and it just clicked once and the ignition lights went out.

Left it for 5 seconds and the ignition lights slowly came back on.

Was going to try and charge it overnight and see if that makes a difference.

Ideally need to test another battery on it.

Does the above sound like the battery is dead or another symptom?

Sorry to keep going on! Karma
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 20:37 - 27 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, it's a dead battery. It's not holding charge.
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orac
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PostPosted: 21:48 - 27 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

as everyone has said the battery has had it day. my MF battery did that same thing but blew fuses instead.

any how if you want to check you charging, check the battery voltage while off (12isvh volts), then across the battery temrinals check the voltage with the engine at or above 5000 rpm, with and without the lights off. as a general rule be getting above 14.5v and below 15.5 (normally quoted as 15v), but check you manual. it sholdnt get any higher if the revs go above 5k, so it should be within spec at 7k, 10k or whatever but not normally below 5k

if you are not getting that into the battery then it is not charging, or more than that, its overcharging and cooking the battery. if it low, check the alternator output, and coil resistance. if that OK then swap the reg/rec, i can speak to a buddy and he may be able to give me wiring for installing the bullet proof CB250 into your machine.

Edit:
also with your current battery, check you abttery before you swith on the ignition, keep the meter of/connected and watch what happens to the reading - if goes down that its the battery. ensure that the abttery doesnt get, if it does you got a short
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Jefr0
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PostPosted: 08:18 - 29 Sep 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the help everyone.

Installed the new battery and fired up straight away.

Lets hope that's the end of it!
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