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Wales Bank Holiday Monday rideout (Mon 29th) - Organisation

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dodsi
Dirty Carny



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PostPosted: 01:47 - 31 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ask for a mate with more experiance to show/help colin, best way to learn really.

The scottoiler is a doddle and once set up like mine you never touch the chain hardly again, ultimate lazyboy peice of kit.

T'was good to meet some of you, Those I didnt speak too dont be offended, its probably because just I dont like you. Wink

Very good roads really enjoyed it!

well apart from when maurice tried to take us too a local brothel...

https://www.wrrc.dpri.kyoto-u.ac.jp/~tanaka/ICCAP/jpg/P3140174.JPG
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colin1
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PostPosted: 01:47 - 31 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Simple wrote:

colin...you're turning into Anthea turner ''Here's one I made earlier''

you could use this old yoghurt pot as an oil drain pan, though you may need to eat lots of yoghurt.

Razz


yeah when i overfilled my tt600, and needed to drain some oil out, i think i used an old cat litter tray or something similar and then ladeled it out into a 2 litre pop bottle with an old lager can.

an oil drain pan would be a good idea rather than improvised arrangements.

i have only recently even heard of them. I was introduced to the concept in fuzz's fork oil changing thread as he has one in one of the pics.
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Last edited by colin1 on 01:53 - 31 May 2006; edited 1 time in total
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EuropeanNC30R...
Gay Hairdresser



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PostPosted: 01:50 - 31 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Simple wrote:
Dropping my elbows? I ride with my arms limp if that's what you mean?


Like riding so that your lower arms are horizontally in line with the bike, sort of like this but without the race crouch:-

https://images.google.co.uk/images?q=tbn:s-18Mpsp4du2LM:https://www.tasracing.com/images/road_far01.jpg
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EuropeanNC30R...
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PostPosted: 02:05 - 31 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

dodsi wrote:
well apart from when maurice tried to take us too a local brothel...


When I said you could 'have' the sheep dodsi I didn't mean you could eat the poor sod fresh Tut Tut

https://www.ifrc.org/docs/news/00/00040501/p5193.jpg
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extreme3d
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PostPosted: 03:49 - 31 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Simple wrote:
extreme3d wrote:
Tightening the chain is not difficult, a case of loosening the main wheel axle, turning two adjustment bolts - one on each side and then pulling the wheel back to the required amount.


what about the small important pointer of checking for tight spots?!


Won't do any harm, but I can't say I've ever checked my chains on any of the bike's I've ever owned for tight spots. Why bother? If it has a tight spot or two so what, what you going to do about it? Spend £100 on a new chain every time you find one?.... It's just a sign of poor lubrication and isn't a big deal everyone makes them out to be - the chain won't suddenly snap on you, just get slacker a bit quicker. Just oil the chain often and it will do and any tight spots will become loose again (hopefully). Better still, fit a scotoiler then you won't ever have to bother checking Wink
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colin1
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PostPosted: 05:00 - 31 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

you need to check for tight spots when adjusting the chain to know how much slack to give it

cant remember exactly how its done, but basically if you check for slack when the tight spot is in one position, you will get a different amount of slack as when the tight spot is in another position

so you either adjust with the tight spot on the sprocket, or on the mid point between the two. cant remember which
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extreme3d
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PostPosted: 12:21 - 31 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

colin1 wrote:
you need to check for tight spots when adjusting the chain to know how much slack to give it

cant remember exactly how its done, but basically if you check for slack when the tight spot is in one position, you will get a different amount of slack as when the tight spot is in another position

so you either adjust with the tight spot on the sprocket, or on the mid point between the two. cant remember which


hmm. Actually you are right. I forgot about find a tightspot to check the tension. I was thinking along the lines of checking the chains condition whilst you are down there adjusting the chain. You will have to forgive me though as i've only adjusted my chain once now in the 10K miles i've done on it and that was at it's 3rd service. Aren't Scotoilers wonderfull things!

Colin, this is what you need as most of the parts from your chains dispensor end are missing!!

https://www.scottoiler.com/pc/catalog/sa-0024a_298_general.jpg

It's £5.85 direct from them https://www.scottoiler.com/pc/Category_Motorcycle_Spares_;am;amp;_Accessories.html

The thin black tube is the bit that actually drops the oil onto the chain by being positioned a mm or so above it level with the bottom centre of the sprocket. The white part has a metal wire running inside it that enables the dispensor to be aimed and then held in place by bending the wire to suit. If the white part is still there (can't rememeber if it was or not - look for the wire by seeing if it's fairly stiff to bend) then all you will need is some new thin black dispensor tubing which are only 50p:

https://www.scottoiler.com/pc/Motorcycle_Spares_;am;amp;_Accessories/Injector_Tubes_(2_pieces).html
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Simple
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PostPosted: 15:19 - 31 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

maurice wrote:
Simple wrote:
Dropping my elbows? I ride with my arms limp if that's what you mean?


Like riding so that your lower arms are horizontally in line with the bike, sort of like this but without the race crouch:-

https://images.google.co.uk/images?q=tbn:s-18Mpsp4du2LM:https://www.tasracing.com/images/road_far01.jpg



Don't do that much, as I look silly,
Only tend to do that when I'm trying to hide from the rain Embarassed
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Simple
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PostPosted: 15:23 - 31 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

extreme3d wrote:
Simple wrote:


what about the small important pointer of checking for tight spots?!


Won't do any harm, but I can't say I've ever checked my chains on any of the bike's I've ever owned for tight spots. Why bother?


Because if the chain is really tight at one point, longterm it will play havoc with bearings
too slack you run the rick of it jumping off the sprocket and lots of false neutrals.

A chain with tight spots doesn't always mean throw it away y' kno'
often they can be saved with a good clean up followed by a good lube up.

I've adjusted my chain once in 7000miles and I don't have a scotoiler, I just give the chain a lube each night when I get home.
cheaper than a scott oiler.


Simple
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colin1
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PostPosted: 15:52 - 31 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

scott oilers are good for lazy ppl with cash (me) as long as they are set up right (oops). mine is missing the nozzle bit that puts the oil on the chain

once ive got the dual injector fitted it shd be ok tho, the problem is im too lazy to get round to fitting it Smile
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colin1
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PostPosted: 16:00 - 31 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

extreme3d wrote:


Colin, this is what you need as most of the parts from your chains dispensor end are missing!!



i did inititally buy those 50 black end nozzle bits, but couldnt see how to fit them to what i have.

i think probably what i needed is the other thing u put a pic of with white thing

but i bought a dual injector, which i should have a go at fitting. im not quite sure how to do it, but if i dont manage it i can always ask someone on here
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extreme3d
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PostPosted: 16:04 - 31 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Simple wrote:

Because if the chain is really tight at one point, longterm it will play havoc with bearings
too slack you run the rick of it jumping off the sprocket and lots of false neutrals.

A chain with tight spots doesn't always mean throw it away y' kno'
often they can be saved with a good clean up followed by a good lube up.

I've adjusted my chain once in 7000miles and I don't have a scotoiler, I just give the chain a lube each night when I get home.
cheaper than a scott oiler.


Simple


oh dear, oh dear... I'd put you down as one of those people who actually read a full post and then any subsequent posts before quoting from it, but from the above..... I'd already admitted I was wrong Wink

As to bearing damage.... It's a bit of a what i call a 'guinness' statement that. Remember that guinness bitter advert with the surfers and horses? Well in any 'best TV advert ever' style program it always wins.... why? It's not even that good and there are many far better. It always wins though as people have to be seen to like it.

Again, taking the phrase bearing damage. It often crops up when people post about something causing damage. Lets say using a pressure washer. The first thing anyone says is watch out for bearing damage... FFS... a pressure washer might well wash the grease out but so what???? a new bearing is like £4... if that. A pressure washer will do lots of costly and noticable harm to other parts of a motorcycle the moment it's so much as brushed across it - radiator fins for example. To many keeping their bike looking immaculate is very important yet you can't even see a bearing - yet you can see a scarred radiator and it costs several hundred to replace it. Yet everyone on this forum likes to be the first to mention bearing damage as they like to be seen to say it and look like they know what they are talking about. Not saying you don't here though Simple, as you live on a farm which 99/100 means you grew up with machines. But don't fall into the trap of everyone else. Remember your signature.... "people are like slinky's completely useless but fun to watch fall down the stairs". What that means is that you recognise most people are like sheep and are very funny to watch doing what everyone else does:

Take a busy out of town cinema complex car park. The front rows closest to the cinema are packed. There are a few spaces here and there but most are fairly tight to get a car into. You are sitting in the back rows with no cars for miles around you drinking a cup of coffee whilst you wait for the time to pass before going in. People will arrive in their cars and for some reason totally ignore all the empty spaces for miles at the back of the car park, even the empty row just opposite the point where everyone is parking is ignored... oh no,, they try to squeeze into the tightest of spaces even if it means making several reverses to adjust their position in the space!! They just have to park amongst everyone else and not to far away as that would mean adding an extra 10 seconds walking time to the building....

....they are just like sheep.... don't become one by trying to have the last word when someone's already admitted they are wrong. i'm not a sheep, if i'm proven wrong i say so. I don't go on trying to convince everyone i was right like so many do on this forum.

*prepares for an interesting mix of negative and positive karma now*
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dodsi
Dirty Carny



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PostPosted: 16:56 - 31 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

wow, so much pent up anger jimmy! Very Happy
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Simple
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PostPosted: 17:07 - 31 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Firstly the car park thing

people park in groups as this is generally where the cctv will be watching, my dad only once parked away from the group, the car was broken into the radio (without the fascia) and my school bag stolen. lesson learnt when the cctv guy said sorry we tend to watch the main clump of cars...not alot we could do about it.

Having a chain incorrectly adjusted will damage the bearings by pulling on them, I think it would also cause intersting tyre wear as the rear wheel is pulled slightly wonky. Deffinetly not a good thing
by damage I mean uneven wear, I dont know the technical terms but the little groove the ball bearings roll in will be worn so that the little BB's dont fit as snuggly, resulting in them running away and leaving you with a buggered bearing.

You havent replaced wheel bearings yet then? last set I replaced were £6 each.. so that's £12 you could have spent on 12 bottles of chain lube and just taking the time to adust your chain properly.

*rings bell* ding ding round two Wink
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colin1
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PostPosted: 17:28 - 31 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

i can see why he might think admiting he was wrong might mean simple wd drop it.

I think simple is more fond of having the last word than most ppl on here tho.

The whole ppl as sheep, repeating often heard advice was interesting but a bit of a detour I thought rather than anger.

Although I have seen simple poke ppl into a rage before Smile
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Simple
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PostPosted: 17:34 - 31 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

colin1 wrote:
i can see why he might think admiting he was wrong might mean simple wd drop it.

I think simple is more fond of having the last word than most ppl on here tho.

Although I have seen simple poke ppl into a rage before Smile


It's not just having the last word, when someone says something that is to the best of my knowledge wrong others such as your self colin then take there word as fact. when in fact it's wrong. It's not the people who give the advice's bikes at risk of damage, its yours.

It's better to get two conflicting views so that you then sit and think ( or I'd like to think you would) well who is right, maybe I should ask around a little more than just assuming the first answer is the best for our question.

poked with a large stick.
I do like to argue I wont lie, though eventually I get bored when no one has any new points or the people you're arguing with are reduced to swearing to emphasise their already stated points.


I'll shut up now, just to make Mr 3d happy Razz

simple
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colin1
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PostPosted: 17:55 - 31 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah well said.

extreme now has to think of something to say in reply so we can see if simple will let someone else have the last word. For this to work, extreme will have to say something bland and innocuous so that simple wont feel the need to reply
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extreme3d
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PostPosted: 18:04 - 31 May 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

No no, Simple is right. It's always best to be sure. There is only one thing worse than wrong advice and that's bad advice. If it's wrong it just won't work at all. If it's bad then it can often do more harm than good by doing something half right.

Anyway.. just for you Simple!!:

extreme3d wrote:
hmm. Actually you are right. I forgot about find a tightspot to check the tension. I was thinking along the lines of checking the chains condition whilst you are down there adjusting the chain. You will have to forgive me though as i've only adjusted my chain once now in the 10K miles i've done on it and that was at it's 3rd service. Aren't Scotoilers wonderfull things!


See, I'd admited I was wrong earlier before you posted. You've 'won' as it were, but in fact both me and Colin have won as we've learnt something new Thumbs Up
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Phoenix
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PostPosted: 01:28 - 01 Jun 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wheel bearings aren't the problem (and they're not cheap btw, the sprocket side bearing on my GSXR rear wheel was £16 from a bearing wholesaler, most are about £5-6. The problem is that if your chain has significant tight spots then it's putting a lot of strain on the front sprocket which can, over time, and lots of harsh use, kill your front sprocket bearing (output shaft bearing). It may be a £5 bearing, but you've gotta get inside the crankcase to repalace it. Granted this isn't common failure, but it's a risk you run when you don't maintain your chain properly.

And chains do snap when they have the odd tightspot, several members of this forum can give you examples of this, myself being one, engine damage frequently results.
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EuropeanNC30R...
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PostPosted: 02:13 - 01 Jun 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's true about bearings, but I don't think you two saw how slack Colin's chain was, it wouldn't have taken much more wear to just lift it off the rear sprocket Laughing You should find fine throttle control a lot easier when it's properly tensioned Colin.
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John C
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PostPosted: 09:11 - 01 Jun 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't forget that the chain will tighten as you sit on the bike and compress the rear suspension. Get someone else of equivalent weight to sit on the bike if your not sure and look for about 25-35mm of drive chain slack at the tightest point.

Whilst your down there you might want to check your tyre pressures. If you've neglected to adjust the chain, you've probably not bothered to check the pressures for a while either. Having the correct tyre pressures will completely change the handling characteristics of the bike.

Good luck with the Scottoiler, they really are wonderful things when properly adjusted. Some will say that they get just as good chain life by lubing thier chain every night, but unless they set to with a toothbrush and some WD40 they are just building up a grinding paste. With the Scottoiler your chain will always look like new and run a lot smoother too. Once I fitted mine I spent a good 30 minutes cleaning the chain to give me a good starting point, it now looks exactly the same as the day I cleaned it and it only just needs adjusting after 4000 miles (bear in mind that my 1000 will eat the chain faster than most 600's I'd say that 4k is a quite good adjustment interval).

Just make sure you keep an eye on the flow rate and adjust for the temperature your riding in and you'll be fine. You might find at first that the oiler flings slippery stuff all up the sidewall of the tyre, which in turn runs over the edge onto the contact area. This is obviously not good, but with a little fine tuning the problem goes away.


Last edited by John C on 18:11 - 01 Jun 2006; edited 1 time in total
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dodsi
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PostPosted: 13:44 - 01 Jun 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bang on.
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extreme3d
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PostPosted: 14:38 - 01 Jun 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bang On from me to Spackie!!
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EuropeanNC30R...
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PostPosted: 14:46 - 01 Jun 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your chain builds up a grinding paste you are using the wrong type of lube Wink
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