How to obtain my licence???

[septimus]

Hi,
After riding on 600cc I would like to take my test now!
Can anyone advice on what do I need to get a licence?
at the moment im on provisional licence.
I am 26 yr old.
Many thanks

[instigator]

Direct Acess Scheme.

Go to any riding school and ask about their DAS course.

That is presuming you have your cbt. If not, you need to pass this cbt course (compulsory basic training) before you can take the training in DAS. Most training schools will do the cbt and das as a intensive course.

[septimus]

/thanks,
can i just do it with out any course? just theory and test?

[instigator]

[lllN30lll]

taken from Eyeball831 on 125ccsportsbikes.com

Well, a few members have suggested that I try and write an article on practical tips/advice on getting yourself through your bike test, and here it is.
It's likely to be a very long post, and as such will need a bit of tidying up/editing over the next few days. At the moment it's a closed topic whilst I'm trying to finalise it, BUT I will open it to forum comments/additions as soon as it's finished.

Regards.

Eyeball.


Ok, firstly some background/basic info, which may seem obvious, but I'm making no assumptions as to what you, the reader, actually know.

Before you can legally ride a motorbike in the UK, you must have completed a course of training, and satisfied your instructor that you can ride a small bike to a proficient standard. By "small bike" I mean a motorcycle of equal or less than 125cc capacity. This is known as the CBT or Compulsory Basic Training. As a guideline, this CBT will cost in the region of £90 to £120, depending on location/school/and whose bike you use. The CBT takes about a day to complete, but can be longer if the instructor feels it necessary that you undertake further guided practice to reach the sufficient standard. Many schools will charge a one off fee and won't charge extra if you need a second or subsequent days training.
The CBT training covers the basics of riding a motorbike safely. You will probably begin with a spoken introduction to your bike, whether geared or automatic, and be shown round the bike. Some road sense and highway code will be included, at some point through the day. Your first experience of riding will be along the lines of handling the bike on and off a stand, starting the bike and moving it forward in a straight line and braking. Next, you will progress to gear changing, and some simple exercises such as turns, figure of 8, riding in a circle. All at slow speed. As a rule these early exercises are undertaken off road. Emergency stops are also practised. Once you've demonstrated to your examiner that you are safe at handling the bike under control at lower speeds, you will be taken you on the road. You will receive instruction by way of a radio set, which the instructor uses to communicate with you whilst you are riding.
Once you have gained your CBT pass certificate, you are entitled to ride a bike of no more than 125CC capacity, with front and rear L plates. You are not allowed to ride with a pillion passenger, nor ride on motorways. You entitlement will last for 2 years from the date of passing, and after this time, you will have to repeat your CBT unless you have passed your full bike test.
The minimum age you can take your CBT is 16. Currently, you do not have to take/pass a theory test in order to take your CBT.

Ok, the good bit now.

You want to rider a bigger/more powerful bike than a 125? In order to do this you must take and pass the 2 separate parts of the UK motorcycle test. There are basically 2 categories of motorcycle test currently. Essentially, these tests are identical in every way. The only difference being the size of bike you take the test on, and this in turn is normally determined by either your age, or your riding ability.

The first stage in gaining your full bike license is to pass your theory test. This in turn comes in 2 sections.
1. Multiple Choice Questions. (MCQ's)
2. Hazard Perception Videos.

There are 35 MCQ's to answer. In order to gain a pass, you must answer at least 30 of these correctly. These questions relate to road sense, road sign recognition, responses to emergency situations, the highway code, riding law, general bike maintenance and the general theory about riding a motorcycle. Each question comes with 4 possible answers. You will gain 1 mark for a correct answer, and you will not gain/lose any marks for an incorrect answer, or no answer. Don't worry if you finish early, as you can go back and review your answers as many times as you need to in the allotted time. You can change your answers should you feel the need. It is important that you read each question very carefully, and review the possible answers, and then read the question again before you answer. Remember it is easy to misread a question when you are nervous and in a hurry. "Click on the answers that don't apply to the following situation" is not the same as "Click on the answers that apply to the following situation!"
To achieve the best possible chance of passing this section, you must answer ALL questions. If you do not know the answer to a question immediately, then you can pretty much eliminate one answer from common sense. E.g., "The national speed limit in a single lane road is, A 60mph, b. 75mph, c. 30mph. d. 40mph?" We know that there is no road in the UK that has a 5m mph limit, so we can eliminate that one straight away. That increases the chance of success from 1 in 4, to 1 in 3. SAO already you're more likely to get it right. We know that it can't be 30, as this is a for in town riding. SO now we're left with 2 answers, so even if you guess, you've got a 50:50 chance! Even if your answer is a complete random guess, there's a 1:4 chance of getting it right, so why not take that chance, instead of definitely failing that question by not answering at all?

Part 2 of the test is the Hazard perception videos. You will be presented with 14 video clips, and in each clip there will be one "developing hazard." One clip will have 2 hazards. Your task is to click a button when you see a potential hazard that could develop further. On each clip there may be more than one situation that could potentially develop into a hazard, and it would be wise to click on all of these. However, random clicking is not suggested as the system will recognise this and give you a zero score for that clip. Clips are scored out of 5 marks. The sooner you click the button, the higher your score will be. If you miss the hazard then you will achieve a zero score. The minimum pass park is 55%. So if you get a 3/5 score on all the clips, you'll pass.

Passing the theory test is much more likely if you obtain a copy of the DAS theory test CD's. They give you a chance to try your hand at both sections. I advise that you do as many of these as you can. They won't be actual exam questions, but will give you a chance of practising what the exams are actually like. If you can pass these "mock" test with no trouble, then the actual test will be easier. The questions are really very similar, so you should recognise the format and feel comfortable with it.

Before you enter the exam room, you will be registered at the reception desk. Make sure you arrive in plenty of time. You will meet others who are taking the test at the same time as you. Do not be intimidated by stories of how someone is retaking the test for the umpteenth time. If you have prepared and prepared well, you will pass. Registration includes you providing your provisional driving license, (or full if you have passed your car test) and your confirmation of booking the test. You will be required to sign in too. You are offered a locker to put your personal effects into, as mobile phones etc are not allowed into the examination room.Listen to what you are told. Talking to other candidates in the exam room will be classed as cheating, and both of you may have your test cancelled.
Once you leave the examination room, you will not be allowed back in. So make sure you are truly finished before you leave.

You have 40 minutes to complete both sections, and you collect your belongings, you will be told whether you have passed or not. If you have, then you will receive a certificate of passing, along with your break down of your results. Your pass certificate is valid for 2 years, by which time you will have either passed your full test, or you will have to retake your theory test again and pass before you can take your practical test.
Unfortunately, I am not strong on how to re-sit your exam, if you have failed, but I am fairly certain there is a minimum time gap before you can book another go.

You must be 17, and hold a provisional licence at the very least in order to take your theory test.

I believe the cost of the theory test is about £23.
____________________
Turbo R1
CRF450R

[lllN30lll]

Ok, so you've now got your theory test pass certificate.
Congratulations! So what happens next?

Well, quite simply, you need to pass your full bike test, before you can ride a bigger bike, ride with a passenger, ride on the motorway and tear up those bloody I plates!

First thing you must do is decide which full test you're going to take. Like I said before, essentially the 2 tests are identical, but they entitle you to ride different machines.
If you are aged between 17 and 21 years old, you can only take your restricted bike test. This is also known as the A2 test. You will train and take this test on a 125cc bike, and passing this test will entitle you to ride any bike of your choosing, as long as it is less than 33bhp, or has been restricted to 33bhp. You will also be allowed to ride with a pillion passenger, providing you have pillion insurance, and you may also ride without L plates and on the motorway.
The 33bhp restriction will apply for 2 years from the date of passing your test, whereupon you may remove these legally and ride a any full powered bike of your choosing. You are, of course, allowed to keep the restrictors in, should you wish.

If you are aged 21 or over, then you can do a Direct Access test, (DAS), also known as the A test. Passing this test gives you all the entitlements of the A2, except you are not restricted to riding a 33bhp bike for 2 years. You can go out and buy the biggest most expensive sports bike on the market as soon as you pass the A test. The A test must be taken on a bike of 500cc or greater, and any bike can be used, but there are some which are more suited to a test than others. If you turn up on a GXSR1000, then expect a hard time from your examiner. They won't admit to it, but they'll see you as a racer. Not only that but you'll find your U turn circle will be harder, and your examiner may be unkind to you.

If you pass your A2 test at the age of 20, and you don't want to wait for 2 years to remove your restrictors, there is the option of accelerated access once you hit 21, but I don't know too much about what's involved, so I'm not going to mention it any more than this.

If you're learning to ride with a school, you will be told how many lessons they estimate you'll need. This all depends on your experience and riding ability. If you're taking the test yourself, then you will have to decide when the time is right.

So what's expected of you on your bike test?

Well, the test lasts for 40 mins. 30 of which are on the bike, the rest is taken up with paperwork and other bits.
The first thing the examiner will do after he calls you over is to check your paperwork. You will need to present both parts of your drivers license, and your theory test pass certificate. You will sign a declaration that your bike (or school bike) is properly insured, and the examiner accepts no responsibility if you crash the bike while on your test.

You examiner will attach a radio unit round your waist. These are normally of a much higher quality than the ones most training schools use.

You will then proceed outside, and your examiner will check your eyesight. You must be able to read a standard UK number plate at 20.5 meters. You will be asked to read a plate at well over the distance. If you struggle, then the examiner will measure the minimum required distance. If you still cannot meet this requirement, your test will end at that point and you won't go any further. You will receive a notification in the post that if an Optometrist doesn't verify that you are able to read the required standard, then your current license will be revoked.

Assuming that you pass the NPT (Number Plate Test), you will be then asked 2 general questions about your bike. This takes the form of a tell me/show me. This is nothing difficult, and will be along the lines of "Show me how you could tell all the lights are working on this bike, and tell me how you would check the horn works?" The examiner is not looking for a text book reply, but a short succinct demonstration or explanation.
At worst, you will pick up 1 minor if you get this wrong.

You will then be taken out on a guided test route ride. This must last at least 25 - 30 mins, and includes some bike manoeuvres.
These will be at the very least an emergency stop, and a U turn. Some examiners will ask you to ride for a few metres at walking pace, but this is optional. The U turn and stop are a common cause of failure, and I will go through these in more detail in my next post, about actual practical tips on taking your test.

The general ride section involves following instructions from the examiner and following a set route. You will likely encounter dual carriageways, town riding, roundabouts and road crossings. Anything is possible. Your examiner wants to see that you can handle the bike safely, and under control, to a sufficient standard. As you progress in your ride, you may pick up minor faults along the way. You can make 14 minor faults and still pass. If you gain 3 minors in a single category, such as lack of progress for example, then this will be considered a serious (or repetitive fault) and you will fail.If you pick up a single serious fault, you will fail. If you cause a hazard, or do something dangerous, your examiner has the right to terminate your test right then and there, and if you're doing your DAS on a 500cc bike, the you will be left at the side of the road whilst the examiner goes back to the test centre and tells your instructor where you are and why you failed. Expect a severe bollocking from your instructor when he finds you.

At the end of the ride, and back at the test centre, you will be asked one question about riding with a pillion passenger. Again, you can gain a minor fault for not knowing the answer, but this will only cause a fail if you have already got 14 minors on your sheet, and this will tip the balance to 15 minor faults, which becomes a fail.

Your examiner will then tell you that this is the end of the test, and whether you've passed or failed.
If you have passed, then there will be some paperwork to be done, and you can congratulate yourself. You will need to submit your 2 part license to the examiner, who will destroy it and send off a copy of your pass to DVLA, who will issue you with a new photocard and paper license. You will receive a certificate of passing your test, and this will act as proof of your entitlement until your new license arrives in the post. You will also get a breakdown sheet of your test, and indicates any minor faults that you may have picked up along the way.

If you have failed, then bad luck, but it's not the end of the world. Your examiner will offer you the chance for him to explain the test results to you, and you can have your instructor present if you should so wish. You'll receive a written copy of your result.

You must wait at least 1 week before you can retake your test.

At the time of writing, a full DAS or A2 motorcycle practical test cost £55. There is no cost for exchanging your provision license for a full license. HOwever I am reliably told by iSSueS that this is going up on 1st April 2006. A £3 increase will take the test to £58.

Tomorrows post will be my final one. Actual tips on riding your DAS/A2 test with the hope of increasing your chances of passing.

Stay tuned.
____________________
Turbo R1
CRF450R

[lllN30lll]

Right, you now know what's expected of you, now to chat a bit about how to actually go about doing it.

Well, as I'm sure you can all appreciate, certain things are just a case of doing them, and hoping for the best.

NPT. Make sure you wear your glasses or contact lenses if you need them. Remember that the minimum standard is just that, a minimum standard. It does not make you safe on the road. Squinting to see the numberplate might get you through this bit at a push.,but you can't expect to squint through out the test, so make sure your glasses/contact lenses are up to date, and clean/comfortable. If you are in any doubt as to your abilities, then get a mate to measure the distance from a random car, and see if you can read the plate with ease. The minimum distance should be 20.5m. Try first at 25m, and see how you get on. If you are still in doubt, make an appointment for an eyetest. I'm amazed at how many of my patients don't realise how poor their eyesight is, yet they are convinced that they can see the required standard! A sight test can make the difference between your bike test proceeding or not, so just make sure.

The most important piece of advice I can give you on your test is to RELAX. If you're too tense, you're more likely to screw up. This may sound obvious when you're sitting at your PC reading this, but in all honesty, it's all to easy to curse yourself after the event for being too tense. I was very nervous the day before, and my instructor suggested getting some Kalms tablets from boots, and taking 2 before going to bed. This seemed to work well for me. Just use your common sense! There's no point taking valium before your test, as you'll be very drowsy as you go round, and the chance of doing something silly is increased.Although it's easy to say be calm and relax, a slight hint of nerves is normal, and actually will heighten your awareness of your surroundings. The key is to keep it under control, and as with most things, a balance is what you need to find. Don't fall to pieces, but neither psyche yourself up into believing you're the bollocks of a rider, as you'll soon be brought down a peg or two with your over confidence!

The second most important piece of advice I can give in your test, is never give up. There are a few things that will definitely mean you've failed, and I will outline these in a mo, but anything else, just keep going. There is always a chance that the instructor didn't see it, or maybe didn't think too much of it. If you dwell on every little mistake that you feel you've made, you'll not concentrate on the next task at hand, and lose more points/confidence. If you make a mistake, tell yourself that you won't do that again if the situation arises again. Remember, if it's a minor fault, if you repeat it again and again, then it will become a serious fault! So keep going, and hope the examiner didn't see it, or maybe didn't think too much of it.

Things you will definitely fail for. (In no particular order)
1. Dropping the bike.
2. Foot down on U turn.
3. Skidding on your emergency stop.
4. Leaving your indicator on after a turn.
5. Causing a hazard, or causing an accident. Crashing your bike.

Obviously any dangerous/serious incident will cause a fail, but the ones above are probably the most common causes. Should the examiner tell you to cancel your indicator, unfortunately, you can expect a fail, as you will with the foot down on U turn, and so on. Everything else, just keep going and hope for the best.

If you are taking lessons with a bike training school, then you will be guided by your instructor over a radio set, like in your CBT. Your instructor will no doubt be chatting away at all times, telling you when you're doing well, and telling you off when you make a mistake. This might seem off putting, but in actual fact can be used to your advantage on your test. This little trick worked for me, and has helped every single person I've advised on about doing their test. You will notice on your test, your examiner will keep the chit chat down to a minimum, so during the periods of radio silence, I found it very useful to speak to myself in my instructors voice. In this way, it was like my instructor was with me, advising me what to do. Practise this when you are out on your own bike and imagine your instructors voice in your ear, telling you to take the correct lane at that roundabout, indicate, lifesaver as you leave, cancel indicator, and so on.

General riding.
Ride your own ride and make progress when you can. Don't wait for a big enough gap for you and your examiner to get through if you're leaving a junction. The examiner will catch up with you as he's a much better rider than you, and if he can't, he'll ask you to pull over when it is safe to do so, and you will wait until he asks you to move off again. Making progress doesn't not mean racing everything that is also on the road. Making progress is about reading the road ahead, and not creating potential hazards by hesitating.
To filter or not to filter is a major question? I was instructed to filter if possible, but make bloody sure you won't become stuck. When filtering, it is expected that you don't create an extra lane in the traffic. SO for example, if you're filtering between 2 lines of stationary traffic, you must not stop between 2 parallel cars. If you must stop, you should find a space in one of the 2 lanes to come to a stop. The chances of not being able to do this are fairly high at some point, therefore making filtering an unnecessary risk of gaining a possible minor, or a fail should you be forced to stop in a hazardous manner. Not filtering does indeed take more time, which you may be riding slowly and therefore making no mistakes, however, I was told that the only bit of riding advice an examiner might give you is to "Make some progress." This is telling you that the examiner WANTS you to filter, as you're getting low on time til the end of your test, and he/she feels it is appropriate to do so. Your instructor will give you his/her view on this matter. It is important to ask as opinions on this vary from region to region.

Moving off.
When moving off, ALWAYS check both mirrors, then indicate, and then a right shoulder check, (also known as a lifesaver) and pull out if safe. Don't forget to cancel your indicator as soon as you're upright.
If you're sat in a queue of traffic, for example at a set of traffic lights, then if you are at the front of the queue, then as the lights are about to change from red to amber, then do both mirror checks and check over both shoulders, for any traffic/cyclist/motorbike that may have approached your blindspot whilst you were waiting. Do not even think of moving off at amber. Remain still until the green light is lit, and it is safe to proceed. Once you've passed through the junction, check what is coming behind you through the junction. Both mirror checks should be done.
If you are further back in the queue, the again, check both mirrors and do both lifesavers before you move off. You can do this when the car that is second in front of you moves off. Again, do not think of moving your bike until the car in front of you have moved forward.
I cannot stress enough the importance of mirror checks and lifesavers enough. I'll cover these in the next section.

Lifesavers.
A lifesaver is there, literally to save your life. You should do these whenever you are changing lane, exiting a roundabout and turning left or right. Literally, this life saver is a glance over your shoulder to check your blindspot is free from obstruction. Do not ignore these. At best you'll gain a minor point of you do forget, at worst, you'll fail if you miss a hazard or danger.

Roundabouts.
Imagine a roundabout as a face of a clock. We're approaching from 6 o'clock towards the roundabout. As a general rule, as you approach the roundabout, any exit past the 12 o' clock point, requires a right hand signal in good time. The first exit to your left requires a left signal. Any subsequent exit, not past the 12 o'clock position requires no signal.
As you approach the roundabout, you will gauge your speed to match the traffic, and scan the traffic on the roundabout, to your right, and straight ahead. Do not enter the roundabout if a car is crossing your path.
Once you've entered the roundabout, keeping your signal on, (if appropriate) and you will need to indicate left as you've passed the point of no return of the exit preceding the one you want.
So in our clock face example, if we're approaching at 6, and we want to exit at the 3 o'clock exit, we will approach on the right lane with out right indicator on, and we will continue round the roundabout, and indicate left (to indicate our exit) at just past the 12 o'clock exit. We carry on round, making progress to the left lane. Just before we leave the roundabout, we do a left lifesaver, and assuming the left lane is clear, we leave the roundabout at the 3 o'clock exit. Don't forget to cancel that indicator as soon as the bike is straight and upright.

Turning Left.
Your normal riding position should be in the middle of the road, or is necessary, slightly right of centre.
If you're planning on turning left, then you must position yourself at an appropriate position. Follow the sequence of mirror, signal, lifesaver manoeuvre. Don't forget to cancel your indicator.
If you're turning from a major road to a minor, then this is likely to be done as one procedure. However, if you're turning from minor to major, then of course, be prepared to stop at the white lines before it is safe to join the major road. Position yourself slightly along the curve of the kerb, and wait for your moment to emerge. Of course, if the major road is quiet, and you can see clearly to your right, and there is no oncoming traffic, then you may proceed with caution without stopping (unless told otherwise). Don't worry if you can make it but the examiner can't. Remember, ride for yourself. Your examiner can look after himself.

Turning right.
Turning right means you maybe crossing the path of oncoming traffic, and as such will require 2 lifesavers.
Turning right from a major to minor road requires you to proceed until you see your turning. You will then need to position yourself in the middle of the road. Follow the mirror, signal, lifesaver and then move out into the middle of the road, or in the case of a dual carriageway, move into the filter lane. Your indicators should still be flashing, indicating your intention to turn right. AS you stop, your front wheel could be pointing into the road you are intending to enter. As you make your final turn into the road, do your second lifesaver. This ensures that someone isn't trying to overtake you on the road, just as you pull out.
Turning from a minor road to major may or may not require the first lifesaver, and is dependent on the width of the road you are leaving. If you have to make a visible move to towards the centreline, then do the mirror, signal lifesaver, move sequence. If not, then mirror, signal and come to a stop at the white line across the end of the road, again, having angled the bike towards the direction you wish to turn.

Speed changes and use of speed.
If a road is designated as 60mph, then it is expected that you will ride at 60mph, unless traffic or other conditions dictate otherwise. Don't fanny about! Get your bike up to the limit of the road as quickly as is safely possible. Power wheelies will not do you any favours, but neither will dawdling along at 30 in a 60 zone.
If you come to a change of speed sign, say from a 30mph to 50mph, the follow this procedure. As you approach the sign, check both mirrors and see what is behind you. Then as you cross the imaginary line of the change, accelerate up to the new limit. Not hesitation. Do NOT consider accelerating early in order to be at the higher speed limit as you reach the sign. That would mean a fail for dangerous riding. Do not accelerate til you reach the sigh.
The reverse applies for a reduction in speed limit. If you have acknowledged the change of speed sign early enough, then you should use engine breaking and reduction of throttle to slow your bike down and try and make it that you reach the new lower limit as you reach the signs. Gentle progressive braking may be required if you've mistimed this. Slamming on the anchors at this point will tell your examiner that you are not using forward planning and will pick up a minor or serious fault, depending on the situation.
As you ride along, try and keep your speed constant unless the road dictates, or the signs change. I found it helpful to state the speed limit to myself every time it changed, or every time I turned from one road to another, and then set the bike at that speed, checking it every 30 seconds or so. Do this at every junction or speed change sign.

U turning.
This is a common cause of failure, mainly because you only get one shot at it. So it is worth practising as much as possible, on your school bike AND on your own bike, to get the technique as close to second nature as possible. There really is no substitute for practising this move.
On your test, you will be asked to pull over when it's safe, on a quiet road. The minimum width will be 22 feet, but your examiner will hopefully be kind and give you a slightly wider road. Once stopped, your examiner will explain the procedure. You will normally be required to walk your bike round in a U turn, this shows you that it is possible to turn the bike within the turning circle of the bike. Yu will then be told to get straight on the bike and ride the U turn, thus bringing you back to your original position.
The key to this is not stopping. If you brake too hard, then the bike will stop, or slow down too much, and you'll put your foot down. Control the bike using the back brake and clutch slip. IF you feel the bike slowing down too much, then release the clutch, and pick up some momentum. The other thing is your head position.
Before you set off on your U turn, you will need to check both mirrors, and do a right lifesaver. DO NOT INDICATE. There is no recognised signal that says you're going to U turn. If you use your signal, then oncoming traffic from front and rear will assume you're moving off in a straight line, and you could crash.
As you do your lifesaver, clock some target along the kerb behind you. A number plate is normal good. Make sure it's some way off. As you move off on your U turn, turn your head as far to the right as possible., and keep fixed on the number plate, (or whatever target you've chosen). Remember that your bike will go where you are looking. Control your bike with the back brake and clutch slip. Like I've said, if you feel that you're slowing, then let the clutch out a bit to keep moving. You'll be mastering the U turn in no time. Remember if the road has a steep camber, you'll need more revs on the up side of the turn than you do on the downturn.
Above all, practice is the key,
One last note on the U turn. When you are about to walk your turn, you examiner may not tell you to turn the bike off. Make sure you do this. Walking the bike round whilst the engine is on is dangerous. What if you accidentally knock the gear lever into position? The bike may try to move round on it's own, and you will drop it. Therefore you will fail.
ALWAYS turn the bike off BEFORE you dismount. And Always remember to put the side stand off as you come off, but knock it off again as you walk round.

Emergency stops.
Your examiner will ask you to pull over and switch your engine off as he explains the procedure. You will either ride round the block in a 4 turn loop, and as you ride the home straight, at some point the examiner will raise a hand and you will need to bring the bike to a full stop, under full control. OR he will ride some distance along the road, and will stand at the side of the road, and instruct you to ride towards him again raising a hand, and you stop.
If you are riding round the block, make sure you apply the same routine as for moving off. The examiner may look as if he's not watching you, but he is. Again as you turn the corner, left or right, make sure you do your mirrors signal lifesavers as appropriate for the very same reason.
As you make your final turn back to the home straight, make sure you cancel your signal. Remember if you don't you'll fail, and if you have no signal to cancel your examiner will assume that you've not been following procedure.
To emergency stop, apply your front brake momentarily before your rear brake. Do not skid or slide. Do not check your mirrors before you stop. DO not cover the front brake with your hand in anticipation. He WILL be looking for this! If you feel the wheels locking up then release the brake that's locking. You should come to a stop within 3 seconds. You'll find that normal braking can be applied in under 3 seconds, so this should not be a difficult task in an emergency. Once you are at a complete stop, do 2 lifesavers, one over each shoulder, and at the same time, get the bike back to 1st gear. Ride to the Kerb, thus getting out of the way of anything that could be behind you in a real situation. If the bike is stalled or not in 1st, then quickly paddle the bike over to the side kerb. Your examiner will not ask you to do that again.
You must ride towards your emergency stop at a speed of at least 25 mph. Make sure you're not crawling!
Your examiner may not raise his hand, and ask you to do another circuit of the 4 turn loop, this means that you're either not in a position to do the exercise safely, or some other hazard has arisen. Don't worry, just go round again. Also, you can roughly guess what's going to happen as the examiner will check behind him to make sure the road is clear before raining his hand. This should tell you that the exercise is live and not to lose concentration.

When doing your test, it is important that you ride under control and keep concentrating at all times.
Follow the advice of your instructor, and above all, try to relax.
If you can demonstrate to the examiner that you can keep it together for about half an hour, and not make any major mistakes, then you'll do fine.

I've covered most of the main topics in these posts, I think. I'm going to open the topic now for suggestions and changes.
Please keep it on topic. Once I've made the change, I may well delete your post. It's nothing personal, but another member said that this topic is a great idea, but he'd be put off from reading it with there were 15 pages of replies.
Also, keep the chit chat and bickering to a minimum.

Remember that the ideas and tips in this thread are what worked for me, and won't necessarily be reflected by your examiner or instructor, and may not work for you. I accept no responsibility for you failing your test and then saying "Eyeball made me do it!"

Good luck

Eyeball
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Turbo R1
CRF450R

[purple_peril_67]

Eyeball, thanks, that was a brilliant and very informative read

I am wondering tho how the original poster is riding round on a 600 without passing any kind of test yet. Surely that can't be legal?

[septimus]

Many thanks for all the information, realy kind of you.

Many thanks again

[carvell]

[extreme3d]

[lllN30lll]

*edit*
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Turbo R1
CRF450R

[kawakid]

[purple_peril_67]

Ok yeah, can see that might be possible. That's me jumping to conclusions and not reading post properly...I do find that helps

[sunbear]

Thanks a lot for all that advice . I start my DAS training tomorrow with the test on Wednesday, and i have found your post informative and quite relaxing. I am very nervous today but your post has helped me to relax a bit. Cheers
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Bikes had : BMW F650, suzuki tr50, gt125, SV400, GSXR600 SRAD. Honda CBR900RRP, CBR600FX, CBR1000F, VT600, Transalp 600, mtx125, nsr125r, CB500T, Yamaha fy50, tzr125, tdr125, XV535, Diversion 600, Fazer 600, TDM850 MK1 & MK2, Majesty 400, XV 1100. Cagiva mito evolution, Aprilia rs125, Piaggio x9 125. DNA 125 . Suzuki Bandit 600, GZ125 Marauder, RF600 , RF900RS2, Kawasaki ZZR400, ZX6R Ninja, ZZR600 . Ducati 750 Sport . Triumph Tiger 955i. CURRENT : 2004 Kawasaki Z750 and LOVIN IT !

[T1Cybernetic]

Cool post that mate, im planning my licence for basically asap!
and the only real thing thats bothering me really is my nerves,

Just because i know how to ride doesnt mean i know how to ride properly
and although im sure i'll do fine it's only normal to worry a little and let those
gremlins get the better of me, a fine bit of reading like this certainly helps...
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Signature removed by popular demand...