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Arfdog
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PostPosted: 19:47 - 23 Aug 2006    Post subject: 2 stroke exhaust coke Reply with quote

Performance on my rxs100 has been getting rapidly worse over the last two days, the first 2 days that I've been riding it. I've posted threads about it possibly being an over-oiled air filter.

When I came home today, I struggled to get her over 30mph. I almost got killed by an idiot overtaking on the inside when trying to merge onto a large road. depressing really on my first proper day on my bike.

When I got home, I re-checked the exhaust, which was black but not gunked up the last time I checked it (2 days before). This time there were about 10 potato chip thin bits of gunk down the middle of it, about the size of 20p coins. I gave the exhaust a bashing on the ground, and they came out. Other than that, the exhaust only has a coating of blackness.

Do you think this would be enough to account for the crap performance? Anyone got a pic of what a totally gunked exhaust looks like? Thanks.

it might be worth adding that it's been standing for 18 months up till now, so my riding possibly loosened some gunk hence rapid deterioration in performance. Can't test ride bike now, waiting for new air filter.
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Jebus
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PostPosted: 19:54 - 23 Aug 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well it depends on the bike but have you checked the plug air filter and everything else are ok? if its been sat a long time with fuel in the tank it may of gone off a bit so wont burn as well, a good way to get the coke out is 2 run it for a decent amount of time and a good high revs blast, you could try redex but not sure if thats ok to use with a 2 stroke engine.
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fuzz
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PostPosted: 21:33 - 23 Aug 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jebus wrote:
you could try redex but not sure if thats ok to use with a 2 stroke engine.


Redex wont do any harm to a 2 stroke. It should help to remove gum and varnish from the carb if it's been left standing.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 22:16 - 23 Aug 2006    Post subject: Re: 2 stroke exhaust coke Reply with quote

Arfdog wrote:
Performance on my rxs100 has been getting rapidly worse over the last two days, the first 2 days that I've been riding it. I've posted threads about it possibly being an over-oiled air filter.

When I came home today, I struggled to get her over 30mph. I almost got killed by an idiot overtaking on the inside when trying to merge onto a large road. depressing really on my first proper day on my bike.

When I got home, I re-checked the exhaust, which was black but not gunked up the last time I checked it (2 days before). This time there were about 10 potato chip thin bits of gunk down the middle of it, about the size of 20p coins. I gave the exhaust a bashing on the ground, and they came out. Other than that, the exhaust only has a coating of blackness.

Do you think this would be enough to account for the crap performance? Anyone got a pic of what a totally gunked exhaust looks like? Thanks.

it might be worth adding that it's been standing for 18 months up till now, so my riding possibly loosened some gunk hence rapid deterioration in performance. Can't test ride bike now, waiting for new air filter.


Arfdog my dad's little 2-stroke was so clogged-up it would hardly rev at all. Here's how you check if it's the exhaust:

Start the bike up and rev it just a little - not great handfuls just enough to judge how much response you are getting from the throttle. Now loosen the exhaust from the head, and then start it and rev it a bit. Apart from being very bloody noisy if it's suffering a blocked exhaust you'll notice a much sharper pick-up on the throttle.

If your pipe is full of carbon (black crap) there are a number of ways to get at least some of it out.

First the cowboy methods:

1. Remove the exhaust, get a rubber or hide mallett, use the mallett to batter the silencer so that some of the crap comes out the front pipe. It helps if you can get the baffles out because they tend to get bunged up. This will ruin the exhaust, and if it's going a bit rusty it will likely fall apart.
2. Pour petrol in the exhaust and set it on fire, wait for the fire to go out then use method number one to batter all the crap out. Apart from being as bad for the exhaust as the first method it carries a good risk of serious burns to yourself and others.

Now the proper method:

Go to the chemist and buy some caustic soda. They have to ask you what you want it for by law, tell them it's for de-coking your motorbike exhaust. I used 2 packets last time I did this.

Take the exhaust off the bike. Find something to plug the front hole with like a sink plug - it's gotta be a good fit.

Get a plastic dustbin and fill it to the top with water.

Get a bucket and fill that with warm water. Put on some marigolds and SLOWLY add the caustic soda to the bucket of water, give it a stir.

IMPORTANT: DO NOT put the caustic soda in the bucket first or you'll get very badly burnt when you add the water. DONT get the caustic soda on your skin or you'll get severe burns. If you splash yourself with the water/soda mix, get your hands into the dustbin fast and wash it off.

Plug the end of the exhaust and pour the bucketful of water/caustic soda mix into the other end of the exhaust until it's full. Next, pick up the whole exhaust, and put it in the dustbin full of water. This is to stop the mixture from running out of any leaks.

Leave it overnnight, in the morning you should be able to tip out a sludgy black gunge from the pipe and it will be unblocked.
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Jebus
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PostPosted: 22:27 - 23 Aug 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah thats the proper way of doing it and you end up with a very nice sparkley clean exhaust, give it a go it should help a bit even if the problem is not so serious
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Arfdog
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PostPosted: 22:34 - 23 Aug 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks All.

I will most defintitely try the caustic soda approach, as well as further investigate the redex idea. Can't wait to get back on the road with a bike I can trust to maintain the speed limit with ease...
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fuzz
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PostPosted: 12:13 - 24 Aug 2006    Post subject: Re: 2 stroke exhaust coke Reply with quote

Geri wrote:
Go to the chemist and buy some caustic soda. They have to ask you what you want it for by law, tell them it's for de-coking your motorbike exhaust.


Um, no you don't. Any hardware store should sell it, and there is no law that I know of that restricts its sale. Just pick it up off the shelf.

A good way to start with the soda solution is to wear rubber gloves. Do this before you pour it into the bucket of water.
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Trixie
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PostPosted: 12:21 - 24 Aug 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Deffo caustic soda.

Just don't do what a mate of mine did. He slooshed the silencer out with petrol, emptied it and had a good look up there. When he decided it was too dark to see anything, he thought he'd strike a match so he could see better.... Rolling Eyes

....singed eyebrows and hair later, the rest is history. I p'd myself laughing when he told me - because I knew he was OK, but it could have been so much worse.... Confused
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Arfdog
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PostPosted: 13:35 - 24 Aug 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Three more things: with caustic sode, is it necessary to put the entire exhaust in a bin full of water? I have no bin that large.
I am pretty sure the exhaust has no leaks though, it is in very good condition.

Also, I take I have to leave the silencer bit inside, bolted in as usual. I will remove it after the caustic'ing, when getting all the newly unstuck junk out?

I have been told a potato makes a good plug for the cylinder end of the exhaust, do you reckon a potato has the necessary chemical integrity to hold true?

I'm about to go walk around the car parks outside, to see if I can spot the white vectra that attempted to murder me yesterday. I dreamt about meeting the driver last night, and it was not a sexy dream by any means.


Last edited by Arfdog on 13:51 - 24 Aug 2006; edited 1 time in total
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 13:36 - 24 Aug 2006    Post subject: Re: 2 stroke exhaust coke Reply with quote

fuzz wrote:
Geri wrote:
Go to the chemist and buy some caustic soda. They have to ask you what you want it for by law, tell them it's for de-coking your motorbike exhaust.


Um, no you don't. Any hardware store should sell it, and there is no law that I know of that restricts its sale. Just pick it up off the shelf.

A good way to start with the soda solution is to wear rubber gloves. Do this before you pour it into the bucket of water.


Hey I'm just repeating what the chemist told me - if you can't give them a reason for it's use, they cannot dispense it.
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Arfdog
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PostPosted: 13:53 - 24 Aug 2006    Post subject: Re: 2 stroke exhaust coke Reply with quote

I imagine chemists might be a little more careful nowadays when it comes to any chemicals which could conceivably be used in bombs or so forth. I did find some at B+Q though. Maybe there are differing grades?
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 21:06 - 24 Aug 2006    Post subject: Re: 2 stroke exhaust coke Reply with quote

Quote:
I imagine chemists might be a little more careful nowadays when it comes to any chemicals which could conceivably be used in bombs or so forth. I did find some at B+Q though. Maybe there are differing grades?


I did a quick search and you are both right (Arfdog and Fuzz). You can buy the weaker brands of caustic soda over the counter, but for the stronger concentrations it seems you must have a license and be registered with local council to sell it.

THE REQUIREMENTS OF THE POISONS ACT 1972 IN RELATION TO LISTED SELLERS

1. Background
1.1 The Poisons Act 1972 and the Poisons Rules 1982 prohibit the sale of poisons unless the seller is a retail pharmacist or a person who has his name on the local authority's list entitling him to sell poisons from the premises named.


1.2 A person whose name is entered in the local authority's list (a listed seller) CANNOT sell poisons which are included in Part 1 of the Poisons List. These may only be sold by a pharmacist.

1.3 A listed seller or his named deputies is authorised to sell the poisons named in Part II of the Poisons List subject to conditions stated below.

1.4 Each listed seller is required to keep a Poisons Book in which certain information relating to each sale of a poison must be entered before delivery to the purchaser. (See 3.1.4, 3.1.5 and 6.1 for exemption from this requirement.)

2. Poisons which can be sold by a listed seller
2.1 A listed seller can sell any of the following poisons:
aldicarb alpha-choralose ammonia ammonia
carbofuran cycloheximide dinoterb dinoterb
drazoxolon and its salts endothal and its salts endosulfan endosulfan
endrin formaldehyde formic acid formic acid
hydrofluoric acid alkali metal bifluorides ammonium bifluoride ammonium bifluoride
alkali metal fluorides ammonium fluoride sodium silico-fluoride sodium silico-fluoride
mercuric chloride mercuric iodide metallic oxalates metallic oxalates
methomyl nitric acid nitrobenzene nitrobenzene
oxamyl phosphoric acid sodium nitrite sodium nitrite
sulphuric acid thiofanox zinc phosphide
The following arsenic compounds:
calcium arsenites copper acetoarsenite copper arsenates
copper arsenites lead arsenates
The following salts of barium:
barium carbonate barium silicofluoride
dinitrocresols (DNOC) and their compounds with a metal or a base
compounds of fentin
hydrochloric acid
organic compounds of mercury, except compounds which contain methyl (CH3) group directly linked to the mercury atom
nicotine and its salts and quaternary compounds
salts of paraquat
phenols (any member of the series of phenols of which the first member is phenol and of which the molecular composition varies from member to member by one atom of carbon and two atoms of hydrogen) in substances containing less than 60% weight in weight of phenols and compounds of phenol with a metal in substances containing less than the equivalent of 60%, weight in weight, of phenols.
The following phosphorus compounds:
azinphos-methyl chlorfenvinphos demephion
demeton-S-methyl demeton-S-methyl sulphone dialifos
dichlorvos dioxathion disulfoton
fonofos mecarbam mephosfolan
methidathion mevinphos omethoate
oxydemeton-methyl parathion phenkapton
phorate phosphamidon pirimiphos-ethyl
quinalphos thiometon thionazin
triazophos vamidothion
potassium hydroxide (caustic potash)
sodium hydroxide (caustic soda)

Produce a valid certificate to the effect that he is a person to whom the poison may be properly sold.

In addition, the required particulars of the sale must be entered in the Poisons Book and this entry must be signed by the purchaser. (See 3.1.4 and 3.1.5 for exemptions from signing before delivery.)

Further on, it says it's possible for caustic soda to be exempt from the Poisons Act regulations, depending on how caustic it is:


7. Exemptions from the provisions of the Poisons Act 1972 and Poisons Rules 1982
7.1 Adhesives anti-fouling compositions builders materials
ceramics, cosmetic products, distempers
electrical valves, enamels, explosives
fillers, fireworks, fluorescent lamps
flux in any form for use in soldering
glazes, glue, inks
lacquer solvents, loading materials, matches
medicated animal feeding stuffs
motor fuels & lubricants, paints, photographic paper
pigments, plastics, propellants
rubber, varnishes, vascular plants & their seeds
7.2 The following are examples of poisons which are also exempt if included in the articles or substance stated:
ammonia substances containing less than 10% of ammonia
drazoxolon treatments on seeds
formaldehyde substances containing less than 5% of formaldehyde
photographic glazing or hardening solutions
mercuric chloride batteries; treatments on seeds & bulbs
nicotine tobacco
paraquat salts preparations in pellet form containing not more than 5% of salts of paraquat
phenols creosote; liquid disinfectants not containing phenol itself
containing less than 2.5% of other phenols phosphoric acid substances containing phosphoric acid other than descaling preparations containing more than 50% of ortho-phosphoric acid
dichlorvos preparations in aerosols containing not more than 1% of dichlorvos, materials impregnated with dichlorvos for slow release
sodium hydroxide substances containing less than 12% of total caustic alkalinity expressed as sodium hydroxide
sulphuric acid batteries and sealed containers in which the acid is packed together for use in those batteries; fire extinguishers

Learn something new everyday. Good luck with your bike arfdog, let us know how you get on Thumbs Up
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Serendipity
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PostPosted: 22:30 - 24 Aug 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Arfdog, before you set off on a project to melt your hands etc have you eliminated other possible causes? I suspect that if you can still easily remove the baffle from your RXS exhaust you may not be suffering from too much coking.

My current RXS has stood unused for longer periods than 18 months and still been ok with a drop of fresh fuel and a battery charge. The last time I really had trouble with difficult starting and poor running it was just a shagged spark plug. Even if you replaced the plug recently it’s possible it’s got all oiled up. Have you got a new one you can try? Should be a BR8HS (or BR8HIX if you wanna spend the extra) Wink

Looking at your other posts I thought I’d leave some info on my RXS in case it’s any help. I’ve had this one for nine years and although it’s only done about 6,000 miles in that time (it’s my spare bike) I’ve not yet felt the need for a de-coke of the top end or exhaust. Its mileage is around 23,000 now and it’s still performing pretty well. I’m not particularly gentle with it, but the engine will freely rev to the red line in most gears. Top gear at 6k rpm is 50mph and if you hit a hill or a head wind at that speed you may have to drop a gear. Mine will struggle up to about 72mph in favourable conditions before mechanical sympathy kicks in and I back off. Despite clever 1980’s technology the bike is still utterly gutless at lower revs. If you’re in too high a gear at 30mph it will take forever to speed up.

The air filter should only be slightly damp, not sodden with oil. However I seriously doubt that would have such a serious effect on your performance as to limit you to 30mph. I’ve not had problems with my carb, but is there a chance that you could have got water or rusty crud from the tank into yours? Have you checked the adjustment of the throttle cable at the handlebar, carb and oil pump?

Looking back over that lot it’s probably not much help, but feel free to ask any questions if you think I could help. All the best. Thumbs Up
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hazza
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PostPosted: 23:16 - 24 Aug 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

try taking the baffle out of your exhaust and see if that improves the situation (it is very very loud with no baffle). at least then you can rule that out as a possible cause.
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Arfdog
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PostPosted: 07:45 - 25 Aug 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Serendipity wrote:
Hi Arfdog, before you set off on a project to melt your hands etc have you eliminated other possible causes? I suspect that if you can still easily remove the baffle from your RXS exhaust you may not be suffering from too much coking.

My current RXS has stood unused for longer periods than 18 months and still been ok with a drop of fresh fuel and a battery charge. The last time I really had trouble with difficult starting and poor running it was just a shagged spark plug. Even if you replaced the plug recently it’s possible it’s got all oiled up. Have you got a new one you can try? Should be a BR8HS (or BR8HIX if you wanna spend the extra) Wink

Looking at your other posts I thought I’d leave some info on my RXS in case it’s any help. I’ve had this one for nine years and although it’s only done about 6,000 miles in that time (it’s my spare bike) I’ve not yet felt the need for a de-coke of the top end or exhaust. Its mileage is around 23,000 now and it’s still performing pretty well. I’m not particularly gentle with it, but the engine will freely rev to the red line in most gears. Top gear at 6k rpm is 50mph and if you hit a hill or a head wind at that speed you may have to drop a gear. Mine will struggle up to about 72mph in favourable conditions before mechanical sympathy kicks in and I back off. Despite clever 1980’s technology the bike is still utterly gutless at lower revs. If you’re in too high a gear at 30mph it will take forever to speed up.

The air filter should only be slightly damp, not sodden with oil. However I seriously doubt that would have such a serious effect on your performance as to limit you to 30mph. I’ve not had problems with my carb, but is there a chance that you could have got water or rusty crud from the tank into yours? Have you checked the adjustment of the throttle cable at the handlebar, carb and oil pump?

Looking back over that lot it’s probably not much help, but feel free to ask any questions if you think I could help. All the best. Thumbs Up


Thanks Serendipity, a lot of good pointers there. I worked through every little bit on the bike last week, lubricated and adjusted all the control cables, cleaned the carb out (it was spotless inside anyway as it happens), adjusted accelerator cable, adjusted oil pump. I am positive that everthing is set up perfectly.

I think you are right about the air filter not being involved in my problem. Why I think it was the exhaust, is because the exhaust was perfectly clear on monday, when the bike was running perfectly. Thr unning got progressively worse, very quickly, over the next two days, and when removing the baffle trying to investigate the problem, I found about 2 bits of hard carbon (looked exactly like hard, black corn-flakes) stuck in the end of the baffle where the fibre wool bit starts. They were totally obscuring the hole. Other than these bits, the silencer is pretty clean, albeit black.

I haven't been able to ride the bike since I found this, as I also tried to soak a bit of the excess oil in the air filter out into some Bounty, but in doing so I tore the filter. It was really dry and brittle when i got it, so it fell apart in my hands basically.

I've also not had time to do anything the last 2 nights, but tonight I am going to 1: check on state of spark plug, 2: put new air filter in 3: try running with newly cleaned (but not caustic'ed) exhaust.

I am pretty sure all will be well. Also, by seeing a slight bit of blueish smoke, and the smelling the unmistakeable smell of 2 stroke oil, that my oil pump is working properly? No point in it being perfectly adjusted if there is a blockage in the oil system somewhere.

Just for backgound, what was happening when the bike was performing badly, was that it would only rev up to 6Krpm or so, and then sound like its struggling - bad spark, couldn't get enough air, something along them lines.. but the number of of rpm i cold reach deteriorated rapidly with riding. The only other thing I could think it may be is the coil.. but lets see what happens tonight.
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Arfdog
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PostPosted: 07:49 - 25 Aug 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Serendipity, if I can ask one more thing:

The power band on your RXS, I imagine it starts around 5.5 - 6K like mine, but please tell me what happens at 7 - 9K. Is the engine still producing reasonable power all the way up to 9K, or does it drop off at any point?

Thanks.
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Serendipity
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PostPosted: 09:49 - 25 Aug 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, you’re probably right, that carbon could be the problem if it’s actually big enough chunks to block parts of the baffle.

Funnily enough I’ve owned 3 different RXS100’s with at least five exhausts between them and I have yet to see a baffle with the damping wool still in place. I guess all the previous owners have removed it or accidentally damaged it. However while it probably helps reduce the noise the wool has no effect on performance either way and I’ve never needed it in place for an MOT. I recall that the manual states that if you remove it the fuelling of the bike is unaffected.

Yup the power band on mine hits with a bit of a kick just before 6k (really annoying on cold wet greasy roads). I don’t know if the power is “reasonable” Wink …. Maybe barely adequate would be a better term. Very Happy Mine does produce fairly consistent power until just before the red line where it suddenly tails off with an “ohmygoditsgonnaseize!” feeling.

Have you experienced the bike going onto reserve on full throttle yet? If not that one will make you laugh. It’s like hitting a brick wall, repeatedly! No gentle loss of power to warn you here, just jerking violent enough to make you think twice about reaching for the reserve tap. And it always happens when you’ve just overtaken someone or got yourself in a vulnerable position. If you do manage to switch to reserve it still takes an agonising couple of seconds for the carb to refill before the power comes back. And if you come to a halt before the engine restarts prepare for much kicking to get the fuel back into the system.
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Arfdog
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PostPosted: 10:13 - 25 Aug 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

mmmm, I've yet to get down to reserve tank, but next week I will, with a bit of luck! I have kicked and kicked, and kicked then realised I hadn't turned the tap on though... doh!

Lovely weather today, I hope it holds.
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Arfdog
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PostPosted: 14:08 - 29 Aug 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh for feck sakes...

I removed the entire exhaust yesterday morning, and filled it with caustic soda dissolved in water. I left it all day long, then cleaned it up and hosed it out in the evening and put it back on the bike.

This morning, she ran like a dream! For about 5 miles, then I performance fell flat again. I removed the exhaust next to the road, and sure enough, it was jammed up with coke cornflakes!!!

So now what to do? It's not possible that the chips of carbon are coming from within the engine is it? All I can think to do is stop every 5 miles and empty the chips out of the baffle. What a drag...
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 19:34 - 29 Aug 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should be able to ratle some of it out of the front pipe. Looks like you've found your problem, just got to work on the cure.
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Jebus
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PostPosted: 19:42 - 29 Aug 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

mabye the engine is really coked up? bung a load of redex thru it and give it a high revs blast, that will clean a load of carbon out, you may be over oiling, and this would make it run like a dog if you know how check the adjustment of your oil pump
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Arfdog
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PostPosted: 21:38 - 29 Aug 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys, I chucked a tablespoons of redex down the sparkplug hole and left it for 30 mins, then started it up and gave it a burn down to the petrol station, filled up and added the right amount of redex to the petrol. I'll just ride it hard for a couple of days, and with a bit of luck it'll vomit up all the carbon. If I still get trouble, I think I'll find geri's chemist and get the terrorist caustic for the pipe, and remove the cylinder head to check if the piston is maybe a solid lump of charcoal...

In between the blockages, she goes beautifully! I'm very happy.
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moonym20
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PostPosted: 22:13 - 29 Aug 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

only flick read this thread, a mate of mine has a lovely RXS100 and we usaually decoke it on a regular basis,

on top of the the methods mentioned you wana remove your baffle as well (there should be a nut/lockwire at the end of the exhaust at the end underside. pop this off and then with two mole grips you next wana use one to clamp onto the baffle itself then use the other mole grip clip onto the first one (with me so far? lol) to create a lever arm, with the exhaust clamped in a vice (or still on the bike) you need to twist the baffle and pull slightly till she comes out, its likely to be a right bith till its out.

next we usaually take the removed baffle and set fire to it to burn off the coke, it works a treat and that little RXS is off like stink again. duno if its being mentioned before... but it works for my mates bike and that was a right horror to sort out. redex works a treat to compliment this Thumbs Up
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Arfdog
Crazy Courier



Joined: 17 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 13:45 - 01 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, since putting the redex in, it's all been sweet. No more blockages (maybe the redex makes the carbon break into smaller bits which just get shot right out of the exhaust).

I can rev freely up to redline now, and I get 73 mph in top gear at the redline Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy
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gwernybwch
Nova Slayer



Joined: 30 Jul 2008
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PostPosted: 16:25 - 30 Jul 2008    Post subject: Re: 2 stroke exhaust coke Reply with quote

Geri wrote:

Now the proper method:

Go to the chemist and buy some caustic soda. They have to ask you what you want it for by law, tell them it's for de-coking your motorbike exhaust. I used 2 packets last time I did this.

Take the exhaust off the bike. Find something to plug the front hole with like a sink plug - it's gotta be a good fit.

Get a plastic dustbin and fill it to the top with water.

Get a bucket and fill that with warm water. Put on some marigolds and SLOWLY add the caustic soda to the bucket of water, give it a stir.

IMPORTANT: DO NOT put the caustic soda in the bucket first or you'll get very badly burnt when you add the water. DONT get the caustic soda on your skin or you'll get severe burns. If you splash yourself with the water/soda mix, get your hands into the dustbin fast and wash it off.

Plug the end of the exhaust and pour the bucketful of water/caustic soda mix into the other end of the exhaust until it's full. Next, pick up the whole exhaust, and put it in the dustbin full of water. This is to stop the mixture from running out of any leaks.

Leave it overnnight, in the morning you should be able to tip out a sludgy black gunge from the pipe and it will be unblocked.


Thanks for the info there.

Couple of queries on this.

How "thick" do you mix up the mixture?

Hopefully I'll flush out all the caustic soda in the pipe after decoking, but is there are problems about applying heat to the exhaust (I may need to spot weld one of the brackets) with potentially caustic soda residue in it?

My bike has an alloy after-market silencer on it. Is there any problems using caustic soda on alloy?

Thanks in advance.
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