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1986 Daelim Bike Bogging Down when driving

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Sgt. Hobo
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PostPosted: 18:23 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: 1986 Daelim Bike Bogging Down when driving Reply with quote

MY 1986 Daelim bike keeps boggin down while i ride it . It starts up ok but when i switch to first and start to ride it boggs down until i give it full throtle and then when in high rpms it rides fine any ideas?
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Paddy Blake
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PostPosted: 18:56 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check if the carb rubbers are cracked and letting in air and maybe clean
the carbs out.Try the searh.


https://www.bikechatforums.com/search.php

Paddy.
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Sgt. Hobo
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PostPosted: 19:55 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also i just installed a new battery and the bike wont keep it charged i have to recharge it or lse the bike dies and wont start
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Sgt. Hobo
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PostPosted: 20:06 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

This may also sound stupid but what charges the battery. im new to bikes and heard they dont use an alternator... i was reading some other post and saw that there is a recitifier, what does this do... i located the one on my bike and it has 3 wires that goto a metal plate with fins then to a small cylinder that says 9v on it then to a small celinoid then i dont know were to ... does this have to do with the charging?
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Paddy Blake
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PostPosted: 20:15 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need to check if the bike is chargeing.If you have a meter then
conect it to the battery and start the bike up.When the bike is revved the
charge should go up.If the charge just goes down then test the regulator/
rectifier.
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Sgt. Hobo
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PostPosted: 20:25 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

i just removed the small piece with fins and saw that it had 3 connections but 1 of them is broke . its not the regulator because thats on the other side what is this?
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Paddy Blake
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PostPosted: 20:30 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would say it is the regulator.Is there any way you could take a picture
of it and post it up.
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Sgt. Hobo
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PostPosted: 21:30 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is the pickof the thing i described
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Paddy Blake
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PostPosted: 21:46 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

That looks like a regulator.Can you connect the wire back onto it.
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Sgt. Hobo
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PostPosted: 21:48 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

nope its broke off ;.... and went and got a multimeter and whn connected to the battery with bike on it reads 5.07 but then when i rev the bike it goes down. this is in dc
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Sgt. Hobo
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PostPosted: 21:49 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

could that be why the bike is bogging down or should i clean the carb... the carb leaks somewhere because when its running i can feel the gas on the carb its wet
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Paddy Blake
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PostPosted: 21:59 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dont mind the carb for the moment i,dd say that is alright just sort the
regulator and seehow it goes.Cheers.

Paddy.
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Sgt. Hobo
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PostPosted: 22:22 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

were might i find one everywhere i call says they dont carry daelim parts i live in NOrth Ridgeville OHio USA
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Sgt. Hobo
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PostPosted: 22:23 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

there is another part that say stanley regulator on it thats not that part so are u sure its the regulator
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Davo
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PostPosted: 22:33 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know if this is any help but HERE is a list of Daelim dealers (although they are UK based). Might be worth an email if you need parts.

Is the bike a 6 volts electrical system?
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Paddy Blake
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PostPosted: 22:40 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am not sure as i never even heard of the bike but if you trace the wires
from the alternator on the lefthand side of the engine thay should go the
regulator.Can you post a pic of the left side of the engine and one of the
fill bike as it is likely the be very much the some as some bike i do know.
Google daelim usa.

Are the indicators working.
Cheers.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:55 - 30 Sep 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not being rude, but it doesn't sound like you have very much of an idea what you are doing. Starting to pull the carbs and wiring apart can land you with worse problems than you started with.

Whereabouts in the country are you? Someone might be able to pop over and give you a hand with it.

As has been suggested, reconnecting that electrical box with the heatsink on it would be a good start. It is almost definately something to do with the charging system.

Trouble is I've never heard of a Delim bike so it is tricky to be specific. If you could answer a couple of these questions it can help us to narrow down what sort of electrical system it has. Please give answers relating to when the bike was working properly, not as it is now:

1) Does it have a points ignition?

2) When the engine is off, is it possible to switch the headlight on or does it only work when the engine is running?

3) Does the bike have an electric start?
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Sgt. Hobo
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PostPosted: 02:43 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

The headlight works fine running or not , the bike starts fine (when the battery is charged) and no the bie doesn't have an electric start. As to the other question yes it is 6v i saw that on a black cylinder. here are some pics.


North Ridgeville Ohio
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Sgt. Hobo
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PostPosted: 02:46 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like i said its my first time with a bike ... i dont know if its 2 stroke or 4 stroke so i rally dont know if there should be a oil gas mixture right now im running unleaded gas with no oil because i didnt see anywhere to put oil in the the bike, i used to a dipstick like with cars.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 03:38 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like it is a 4-stroke from the picture (although it is a bit small and dark so I wont stake my life on it) so no oil in the fuel. The way to be sure is by looking at the top end of the engine. Where the sparkplug goes in, is this the topmost part of the engine (2-stroke) or is there another metal cover on top of the bit the sparkplug screws in (4-stroke).

It looks similar in design to a honda C90 engine with that leaned-forwards block on it.

Also looks like it has points ignition because you have what appears to be a condenser in your hand on your last picture.

The thing with 6v written on it is the ignition coil. The cylindrical thing next to it is the flasher relay.

There is probably an oil filler cap on the right hand side of the engine in the top of the crankcase. There may well be a dipstick on it, or a level screw further down.

The fact that the headlights come on with the engine off means it has a standard 2 or 3-phase charging system. I reckon the 'box' in your earlier picture is the rectifier (converts AC to DC) and the 'stanley regulator' is a zennor diode that dumps any excess voltage to earth.

How many wires go to the rectifier and what colour are they?

Are you getting 6v at the wire going into the regulator?

Considering the problems, you appear to have at least two. There is whatever is causing the bike to stutter and miss and there is a charging problem. The two MIGHT be related.

Since it is running, if it were me, I'd get the thing charging first off.

It's an old bike and so will undoubtedly have had quite a few previous owners, all of whom will have tinkered with it and have their own take on what is a 'good' fix for something.

Having tinkered with older bikes like that before. I would go through it and repair any bodged wires. PVC tape wrapped round a wire is a recipe for disaster. If you see this, take it off and get the wires joined properly with solder and shrinktube or crimps. Have a look in the back of the headlamp shell, there can be some total nightmares in there. You definately need to get that broken wire on the rectifier fixed.

When the charging system is working, you'll find that the headlamp gets brighter as you rev the engine. A voltmeter across the battery terminals with the engine running should be 6v or higher.

If all the wires are connected as they should be, then either the alternator is broken or the the regulator/rectifier is U/S. You can test the alternator windings with a multimeter. Reg/rec is more tricky to test.

The setup you have was common on Japanese bikes in the mid 70's and the reg/rec units were notorious for going wrong (especially the old mechainical regulators). It should be possible to replace them with an all in one, solid state reg/rec from a breakers yard if this is the case. I can tell you how with a few more details (like the number of wires on the rectifier).

Once you have it charging properly and the wiring sorted out, you may find the running problem goes away. You might not.

You need a methodical approach. Treat it to a new sparkplug (you never know how old the current one is and even if it is the correct one). While you're there, check the condition of the plug cap and plug lead.

Check the air filter and airbox to see if it is blocked or any mice have made nests in there Laughing.

Next a methodical strip of the carb (if you need help, post).

Then I'd check the ignition timing and points gap.

Finally the valve clearances and timing.

Importantly. Do things one at a time and check to see if it is fixed/worse. If you move any adjuster screws, note their position BEFORE fiddling with them. It runs now. if it stops after fiddling, you want to be able to put them back how they were.

Bit of a ramble there, hope it makes sense. Best of luck anyway.

EDIT: That condenser you have in your hand needs to be bolted to the metal of the frame to earth it in order for it to work. It is an essential part of the points ignition, the bike will run without it but not very well. Needs to be well screwed down to clean, bare metal on the frame or engine.
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Sgt. Hobo
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PostPosted: 04:45 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok so i didntfix the charge yet but there are three wires goin to it , red , red, and pink one of the red ones isn't hooked up (its broken off). NOW I HAVE A NEW PROBLEM . took the carb apart cleaned it but now when i start the bike it leaks gas from the bottom threw a tube i have a picture it doesnt poor out but it drips out with the bike is running or being turned over.
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Sgt. Hobo
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PostPosted: 05:05 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

More pix lol these are taken with a phone so sry about the quality


so its a 4 stroke bc of that metal cap on top of head correct?
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 13:51 - 01 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, the fuel is coming out of the overflow. This means that the float height is wrong or the needle valve that the float controls is damaged/blocked.

Don't know how much you understand about carburettors but the level of fuel in them is controlled by a float, usually made of plastic or brass which pivots at one end. Attached to this float is a needle valve which is cone shaped and seats in a round hole that the fuel enters the carb through. As the float bowl fills up with fuel, the float moves higher. It eventually reaches a point where the needle valve is forced up into its seat and shuts off the flow of fuel.

First off. Try tapping the side of the carb with a piece of wood. The floats sometimes stick, especially on a bike that has sat unused for a time. If the fuel sdtops leaking, this is the problem. Repeating the process every time it happens usually leads to them freeing off.

Failing that, it's carb off time again. Take the float bowl off and carefully remove the pin that holds the float in place and lift it out. The needle valve is usually held in there quite loosely either in a recess or on the end of a small wire clip.

Check there are no punctures or damage to the float. There should be no fuel in them. Make sure they do actually float in a bowl of water, they should sit perfectly level. Inspect the needle valve and its seat for any signs of damage with a magnifying glass. Check the top of the needle valve (the end away from the pointy end) to see if there is a tiny, spring-loaded pin in the top of it. Not all have one but I have seen these stick in before now.

If it all looks good, reassemble and try again, sometimes stripping it can dislodge a tiny bit of grit or dirt from the valve seat.

If it is still leaking, the only conclusion is that the float height is set wrong. On some bikes this is 'fixed', on others (especially older ones like yours) it can be adjusted. Where the float presses against the end of the needle valve there should be a small brass tag. Bending this one way or the other adjusts the float height. Only bend it the tiniest of amounts at a time then reassemble and try the fuel line on it. You want the fuel to have just stopped running out and mo more.

NB: Only mess with the float height when you have definately established nothing else could possibly be causing the problem.

Luckily, the wiring behind the headlamp looks like it has been left alone for the last 20 years. Good, keep it like that.

Definately a 4-stroke. The round bit on top is an inspection cover to allow access to the valves so you can set the tappets. The big round bit on the left side of the engine is the timing housing, the points will be under here.

"What is this?" Err. Not sure. Looks a bit like a solenoid if those are two dirty great thick wires coming off the top of it and connected to the battery. I have no idea why there would be one though if there is no electric starter (certainly can't see one). What's it connected to? I presume those are thick wires and not hoses?

Please tell me it doesn't say "Lucas" on it in which case it may be part of an antiquated and notoriously unreliable charging/ignition system that I know next to nothing about. I doubt it though

I'm still assuming that box with the broken wire is a rectifier and it has a points ignition but I'm not 100% certain.

This is what a 1980's honda rectifier looks like:
https://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/sitebuilder/images/r2-55a_H-288x202.jpg
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Sgt. Hobo
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PostPosted: 02:40 - 02 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nope the thing has hoses attached to it.
How would i go about putting the honda recitifier on the bike if it doesnt have a connector like that?
Well the bike wont start with out the healight on and behind the headlight all that wire has been mesed with and cut by the previous owner. I really could you a product manual but cant find one do u happen to know were i can get one ... i dont want to pa the 30 bucks for it
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 18:17 - 02 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

We're running into some serious 'not being able to see the bike properly' issues.

The hoses on that black thing, what do they attach to? I wonder if it could be a fuel pump (although goodness knows why it would need one) Confused .

I reckon the best I can do with the wiring is point you in the direction of this excellent article which describes, in detail, how to build a wiring loom from scratch and what all the componants do. If you understand how it works, you should be able to fix it.
https://www.btinternet.com/~jhpart/bkwirec.htm
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