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 ---- World Chat Champion
Joined: 29 Sep 2006 Karma :  
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| tomkapsalis |
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 tomkapsalis Trackday Trickster

Joined: 06 Jun 2006 Karma :    
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| mr.z |
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 mr.z World Chat Champion

Joined: 04 Feb 2004 Karma :  
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 Posted: 15:23 - 10 Oct 2006 Post subject: |
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That is indeed the cdi unit..
Whats it off?
Depending on whats wrong it may be repairable, if its dead then you wont make it any worse i guess..
If you take the top off it (the side where the connector isn't) very carefully with a dremmel you will be able to get at the underside of the circuit board, you can then resolder any connections to the board, if thats the problem you'll have it fixed.. had the same problem on anoher bike and it sorted it ok.. Will need to check its defenately the cause before you attack it! ____________________ >RidingSkills<->Tech Tips<->MyBikes< |
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| eddclarke |
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 eddclarke Brolly Dolly

Joined: 10 Jul 2006 Karma :  
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| finpos |
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 finpos World Chat Champion
Joined: 13 Sep 2005 Karma :   
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| finpos |
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 finpos World Chat Champion
Joined: 13 Sep 2005 Karma :   
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 Posted: 10:50 - 11 Oct 2006 Post subject: |
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I think you will need at minimum a wiring diagram and a multimeter to get any further without replacing parts and hoping for the best
That box - how many wires, what colour, where do they go?
finpos. |
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| eddclarke |
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 eddclarke Brolly Dolly

Joined: 10 Jul 2006 Karma :  
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| finpos |
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 finpos World Chat Champion
Joined: 13 Sep 2005 Karma :   
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 Posted: 20:20 - 11 Oct 2006 Post subject: |
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Dave,
I don't mean to be rude, but a bit of punctuation would really help!
So it sounds like you have a 3 phase altenator (i.e. it has 3 wires going to it) and you think this is ok.
The other 2 wires and little black box are interesting. This is the pickup - when the little metal point on the flywheel passes by this box, it should signal the CDI to make a spark at the coil. What is interesting is that:
1. It shouldn't actually touch the flywheel, there should be a tiny air-gap. If it is touching, it may have worn it away and it is now broken!
2. It's is most likely a simple coil, so I think you should be able to detect some resistance across the two wires. In rare circumstances, it may be a thing called a hall sensor, but I doubt it. By "circuit test", do you mean you are measuring it's resistance?
There isn't normally any voltage on the pick-up - when the metal lump on the flywheel passes next to it, a small current is generated. The CDI detects this and triggers the spark in the coil.
Now, that's the "typical" case, it could be on your strange chinese bike it is supposed to contact the flywheel. I doubt it, though.
finpos. |
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| finpos |
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 finpos World Chat Champion
Joined: 13 Sep 2005 Karma :   
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 Posted: 00:03 - 12 Oct 2006 Post subject: |
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What sort of tester are you using? it's not a megger is it? I'd keep that away from a bike!
Yes, you should be able to get a reading, in ohms, between the two wires going to the pickup. If you had a manual, it would even tell you the right value Unplug the pickup from the CDI if taking such measurement, no need to turn the engine over.
Is the air gap for the pickup adjustable? Again a manual helps, but the gap needs to be very small.
If you can measure AC volts, you might see a very small voltage, less than 0.5VAC between the two wires going to the pickup coil when the engine is turned over. That's AC, not DC, you'll see nothing on DC.
I can probably suggest some other things to try out, but I need a clearer idea of the connections to your CDI. e.g.
CDI - green wire - pickup box
CDI - pink wire - stator coil 1
CDI - black wire - ignition barrel/kill switch
CDI - xxxxx wire - xxxxxx
etc. etc.
The "live" from the CDI to the coil is not live, it will be pulsing. Again, you might be able to see a signal on this if you measure it on using an AC Volts range.
Finally:
Before getting too far ahead of yourself, do you know if your bike is kitted out with a sidestand cutout switch?
And, just to be sure, make sure the battery is fully charged and that the kill switch is off
finpos. |
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 finpos World Chat Champion
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| finpos |
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 finpos World Chat Champion
Joined: 13 Sep 2005 Karma :   
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 Posted: 01:16 - 12 Oct 2006 Post subject: |
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You're obviously not as tight as me - I won't replace something unless I'm 100% sure it's buggered AND I've hit it with a hammer. Twice. The problem you have is that besides the things you've listed, there is a very good chance that the fault is in the wiring itself, or some component you've not identified yet (ignition switch?). Which is why I need you to be sure where all these wires are going. Buy hey, it's your bike, time and money.
It's easy enough to test the stator coils if you want to do that, but probably best to eliminate one thing at a time, and yes, it is painfully slow this way! Cheaper than a mechanic, though
Off to my pit now.
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 ---- World Chat Champion
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 Posted: 18:10 - 12 Oct 2006 Post subject: |
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when i first tested for a spark i just pulled off the ht cap and stuck a screwdriver up there...put it agains the body and there was nothing..
well today i checked it properly as i should have done in the first place by taking the plug out and there is a spark.so i delved deeper and this is what ive found
https://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y238/dodgydav32000/Pic-0013576x432.jpg
https://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y238/dodgydav32000/Pic-0014576x432.jpg
sorry for all the trouble i was assuming too much.
its bent the valve and the pushrod,but luckily the piston is ok and the bent valve come straight outta the giude so hasnt damaged the guide.with a bit of luck i should get away with a new inlet valve,oil seal,pushrod,and head gasket.
it can only think it must have been caused by the fact that i didnt run the bike in properly.it had only done around 300 miles when i started giving it full revs.oh well as usual im learning the hard way.
really appreciate the help and advice you have both give me,and im sorry for wasting your time.
best regards
dave... |
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 finpos World Chat Champion
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 ---- World Chat Champion
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 20 years, 17 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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