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Calling all engine ears ...GPZ500S knocking :( FIXED :)

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DaveH
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PostPosted: 21:03 - 18 Oct 2006    Post subject: Calling all engine ears ...GPZ500S knocking :( FIXED :) Reply with quote

Just got my self a wee GPZ500S at the weekend there.

Its standard apart from Nexxus exhaust and K&Ns, although it has not been rejetted.

Its increasingly starting to make a knocking noise is it

a) running lean and is 'knocking'
b) little end? Seriously hope not
c) A little spanish mouse is trapped and givung the castanets lalldy
d) Previously owned by Captian Hook, and nobody told the crocodile?

Recorded it and you can hear the light knocking above the engine quite well....

Anyone any idea?

Thanks in advance

Dave


Last edited by DaveH on 20:37 - 21 Oct 2006; edited 1 time in total
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finpos
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PostPosted: 21:21 - 18 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

That sounds towards the not good end of the spectrum Sad

If by a) you mean pinking, pretty unlikely. It would be doing it mostly under load.

Before you panic about bearings etc, check out to see if the exhaust is blowing, it can sometimes make a mechanical sounding noise if it goes right where it connects onto the engine.

Sounds a bit like the bearings, though. Don't suppose you noticed if it was full of gearbox (as opposed to engine) oil when you got it??

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DaveH
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PostPosted: 21:27 - 18 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nope, only checked that there was oil in it, was down for changing it this weekend...

If it is the exhaust will it be noticbly louder at the front, or not too easy to distinquish if it is piston based, or will it be possible to feel the leak?

Thanks

Dave
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finpos
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PostPosted: 21:31 - 18 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Personally, I find it almost impossible to figure out exactly where engine noises come from. Best to try and feel for an exhaust leak, don't burn yourself Smile

You can also try to quickly bung up the end of the exhaust with your boot. The engine will quickly bog down if there is no leak anywhere.

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Retro-Man
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PostPosted: 22:17 - 18 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

difficult from that sound clip, but my initial thoughts are if your lucky a very bad misfire (like HT leads on wrong way round) or a head/sump off annd inspect.

Assuming it's not a major misfire I'd start by removing the sump (presuming it has one) and removing the end caps, it does sound a little bit like big end shells.
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DaveH
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PostPosted: 22:29 - 18 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just been out to the bike; (ok several times trying to get a decentish recording)

Started it up and shoved my hand over the end of the exhaust to make sure I could get as gas tight a seal as possible.

Engine does change note a bit and there is a pronounced scuffling sort of noise from the front of the bike, but the engine didn't die. Tried reving slightly it and it did a bit, but nearly stalled when returning to idle.

The noise was not as obvious as before, but the engine had cooled down.

Also, during the longer recording, when gradually covering the exhaust, the noise seemed to transfer from the tapping to the scuffling type of noise, but was probably just the sound of hope sprining eternal!

Probably all pretty inconclusive until I can get time to take exhaust off and reattach.

On another note, why would someone put geerbox oil in? Was this a literal question and is it some sort of bodge to disguise this sirt if thing?

Cheers
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:30 - 18 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right, you do get a certain amount of clattering off those engines as normal.

Yours sounds a fair bit more clattery than mine do though.

I'm not sure exactly what causes it, I suspect it is something to do with either the water pump or the primary chain.

First eliminate everything obvious such as (as mentioned) leaky headers/exhaust. (it would usually pop-pop-pop on the overrun if this was the case).

Have a listen to the engine using a sounding rod. A short length of broom handle or a screwdriver works for this. Press the rounded end firmly against your ear and press the other end against various parts of the engine. This can help to isolate where the noise is coming from. So eg, rocker cover = tappets/valve gear; barrel = Pistons/small ends/camchain; Left side = Alternator; Right side = clutch/transmission.

Listen for the camchain whirring and the tappets clicking (normal).

The noise on mine (which I now deem to be normal since it was present on all three 500 twin engined bikes I have owned, one of which only had 6k miles on) is loudest over the water pump cover on the right hand side.

This being the case, as a first off I would get the carbs balanced. This seems to quieten them right down.

EDIT: Also seems fairly sluggish off the throttle, which could again point to a balancing issue.
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DaveH
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PostPosted: 22:33 - 18 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

It pops and bangs like a good un on the overrun, had put it down to the k&ns screwing up the carburation. Should get a standard airbox through the post tomorrow or the day after and will fit it and balance the carbs then...looks like a busy weekend.
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finpos
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PostPosted: 22:36 - 18 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cynical me, but worn bearings + thick gearbox oil = sounds ok for 100 miles until the oil breaks down.

If the exhaust was properly sealed up, it wouldn't run for 30 secs, so definitely worth having a hunt around for a leak.

As Stinkwheel says, I think you can expect a certain amount of clatter with big singles/twins, so it's just the "getting worse quickly" aspect to worry about.

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DaveH
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PostPosted: 22:37 - 18 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
EDIT: Also seems fairly sluggish off the throttle, which could again point to a balancing issue.
Would say it does, but was thinking that the 750 was sluggish after the 900, so even if it was in top fettle.....

Thought that it seemed to be a bit flatter over the last couple of days or so, thought it was just my imagination.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:38 - 18 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh shit. You have it on K&N pod filters? Not a proper K&N filter in the airbox.

Get an airbox on the bugger. Kawasaki spend around 2/3 of their R&D budget on carburettion and employ accoustic engineers to design their airboxes.

As I have been finding on my KLE/GPZ hybrid, the airbox shape and size is utterly critical to the correct running of your bike. If it has pod filters on and no carburettion work done, it will undoubtedly run like a total bagowank. I'm surprised the engine revs at all above 7,000rpm.

EDIT: It will be running lean as hell.


Last edited by stinkwheel on 22:40 - 18 Oct 2006; edited 1 time in total
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DaveH
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PostPosted: 22:39 - 18 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Retro-Man wrote:
difficult from that sound clip, but my initial thoughts are if your lucky a very bad misfire (like HT leads on wrong way round) or a head/sump off annd inspect.

Assuming it's not a major misfire I'd start by removing the sump (presuming it has one) and removing the end caps, it does sound a little bit like big end shells.
Am not ignoring you....its called denial Wink

Doesn't seem to be misfiring, well compared to a 4 it does, but that's just me
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DaveH
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PostPosted: 22:44 - 18 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Oh shit. You have it on K&N pod filters? Not a proper K&N filter in the airbox.

Get an airbox on the bugger. Kawasaki spend around 2/3 of their R&D budget on carburettion and employ accoustic engineers to design their airboxes.

As I have been finding on my KLE/GPZ hybrid, the airbox shape and size is utterly critical to the correct running of your bike. If it has pod filters on and no carburettion work done, it will undoubtedly run like a total bagowank. I'm surprised the engine revs at all above 7,000rpm.

EDIT: It will be running lean as hell.
It wisnae me, it was the one armed man.....


Just got it on Friday and got the airbox bought, via ebay, yesterday, will not run it again until airbox is installed and exhaust headers are checked, along with oil changed and eyed suspiciously!

Thanks for the help guys Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up hoping its one of the more minor probs, though have read a fair few of your posts on the bike Stink, and if it is more serious a replacement engine may be more cost effective...yesno?
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DaveH
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PostPosted: 22:46 - 18 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

BTW, will the lean running damage it? Just filled it up today and its gettign 57mpg, hoping that's a good sign as for half the motorway/town distance travelled it is two up...
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hmmmnz
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PostPosted: 02:25 - 19 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

you'll need the original main jets as well, get them from wemoto.
(i gather that he did change the jets when the pods were put on Very Happy)
check the needle clip position and the slides while your at it.
good luck
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 02:31 - 19 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

DaveHogg wrote:
BTW, will the lean running damage it? Just filled it up today and its gettign 57mpg, hoping that's a good sign as for half the motorway/town distance travelled it is two up...


They are pretty tolerant engines in my experience. They have a comparatively large sump (so plenty of oil) and are overcooled to an extent. Barrels have those fake cooling vanes on them too.

You get away with a lot.

If the engine is fooked, they have been making those paralell twins for over 20 years, lots in the breakers.
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DaveH
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PostPosted: 10:57 - 19 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmmmnz wrote:
you'll need the original main jets as well, get them from wemoto.
(i gather that he did change the jets when the pods were put on Very Happy)
check the needle clip position and the slides while your at it.
good luck
Apparently it still has the standard jets. The previous owner fitted the pods and also the exhaust i think, but didn't rejet.

Hoping the airbox arrives today. Exhaust studs are soaking in wd40 for the moment, here's hoping that they're coppaslip'd....and that that is indeed the problem and nothing more serious Praying
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finpos
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PostPosted: 11:31 - 19 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting if the exhaust has been fitted recently. Remember the old adage:

"He who thinks pods are a good idea rarely bothers his arse to use new exhaust gasket"

Smile

finpos.
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DaveH
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PostPosted: 11:39 - 19 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

finpos wrote:
Interesting if the exhaust has been fitted recently. Remember the old adage:

"He who thinks pods are a good idea rarely bothers his arse to use new exhaust gasket"

Smile

finpos.
Laughing
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hmmmnz
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PostPosted: 17:23 - 19 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

it would have been running like a dog with pods and no rejet, i would check just incase they have been changed out.
keep us updated
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DaveH
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PostPosted: 17:37 - 19 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thumbs Up Will do, though it will be the weekend before I can get sometime to work on it
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 21:01 - 19 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rule of thumbs:

Buy a new oil filter.

Remove existing oil filter.

Carefully cut the oil filter open.

Remove the paper and open ouit like an accordian bellows.

Look for shinny wee flakes of white-ish-grey-ish-maybe-blue-ish metal particals.

If you find them Panic a bit.

Remove sump check main and connecting rod bearings etc.

NOTE-
The hacksawing technique will introduce some metalic particals into the filter paper but they will gather near the top if you cut canny.

I will light a candle and say two/three hail Marys for you.

Good luck.
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DaveH
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PostPosted: 15:35 - 21 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just fitted the new exhaust gaskets....how tight do I put the exhaust nuts? Haynes doesn't give a torque for it, or a rule fo thumb either.

Can anyone tell me hpw to tighten them up correctly?

Thanks
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hmmmnz
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PostPosted: 18:02 - 21 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

it should be 1.2 in the haynes manual 9-12 Nm
thats about the same resistance as an 8 year old holding the door handle from the other side and you trying to turn the handle, not a very good analogy but you get the idea,
tight but not any real weight on it just a bit more than hand tight
last thing you want to do is thread the inside of the engine, Very Happy
good luck
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DaveH
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PostPosted: 20:37 - 21 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bike is fixed Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

Changed the exhaust gaskets, put in the coolant and fitted an orginal airbox. Decided to just use the petrol in the carbs to see if the noise had gone...glad I did!!

The noise was still there and was starting to despair, when I notice the right had spark plug bobbling along in time to the knocking...it was quite loose!

Killed the engine, took the plug out...dreading a stripped thread in the head, but everything seemed fine. Spark plug was in good nick, plug well was clear, so fitted it and it tightened properly, check the other one, likewise ok..so...fired her up.....

Was a sweet sounding little bike she is Mr. Green (even though she's two cylinders down Wink)

Oil and filter then changed, and btw motad, gonny no obstruct the sump plug with the down pipes!!!!!! Had to slacken off the exhaust again, but luckily hadn't really put them that tight in the first place.

All that's left to do now is put the air filter back in, once cleaned, balance the carbs and put the rest of the bodywork back on...dying to take it for a blast but have got the kids this weekend, so will have to wait to Monday Sad


Chuffed to bits that the bike isn't burst and is sounding very happy and even better than before, am guessing that's down to the airbox, gaskets and oil; makes the 4 hours it took doing this...including dodging rain....very, very worthwhile. Very Happy Very Happy

Thanks for all the help guys Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up
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