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rust and corrosion

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Keen
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PostPosted: 10:56 - 18 Oct 2006    Post subject: rust and corrosion Reply with quote

Hi,

I've noticed a few tiny rust spots appearing on the forks and obviously I'm not amused! can someone please advise me on the best way to treat this and stop it getting worse?

My downpipes are also starting to corrode and look a bit tatty, what do you guys do to keep yours looking sharp?

cheers,
james
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irving
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PostPosted: 11:07 - 18 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Idea

Last edited by irving on 19:39 - 19 Jan 2007; edited 1 time in total
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finpos
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PostPosted: 11:19 - 18 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can also use a huge comedy tub of generic petrollium jelly (Vaseline), which works brilliantly and is much cheaper then bike shop stuff. That's if you can overcome the embarassment at the counter in Boots Smile.

Before applying any such greasy gloop, treat the rust spots with some of the chemical rust remover and neutraliser stuff you can buy in halfords for treating car bodies. It's useless for cars, but actually works really well on minor blemishes on chromed steel or stainless steel.

The downpipes, unfortunately, are doomed. If they are painted, slap BBQ paint on them and hope for the best.

finpos.
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irving
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PostPosted: 11:51 - 18 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Idea

Last edited by irving on 19:39 - 19 Jan 2007; edited 1 time in total
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rickyfazer
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PostPosted: 14:54 - 18 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rub the rust spots out by lightly using a nylon pan scourer (wife never need know)
Then either vaseline and/or fork gators if you're not image conscious. Are these rust spots within the travel area of the oil seals? If they are and you allow the rust to actually pit the chrome,then the abbrassive pits will knacker your fork seals.
Tend to it quickly and effectively,ignore at your peril!
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Keen
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PostPosted: 19:16 - 18 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

rickyfazer wrote:
Are these rust spots within the travel area of the oil seals?


yeah they are, thats why I'm worried. Its not so bad, they're quite high up so it'll only be a problem under hard braking but still you're right, I need to get it sorted Thumbs Up
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Cillit-BANG
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PostPosted: 20:12 - 18 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Surely WD40 isn't good to be spraying onto your fork stanchions though Confused If it doesn't mess up the oil seals then it's going to contaminate the fork oil.

Maybe you just meant for other metal parts, but you worded it around the forks so it was a little confusing.

If the rust spots are passing through the seals then it's only a matter of time before it starts chewing them up. You could always put a zip tie on the stanchions to see how much the forks travel under normal use so then you'll know for sure.
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irving
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PostPosted: 00:06 - 19 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Question

Last edited by irving on 19:27 - 19 Jan 2007; edited 1 time in total
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hmmmnz
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PostPosted: 02:15 - 19 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

irving wrote:
Cillit-BANG wrote:
Surely WD40 isn't good to be spraying onto your fork stanchions though Confused If it doesn't mess up the oil seals then it's going to contaminate the fork oil.

Maybe you just meant for other metal parts, but you worded it around the forks so it was a little confusing.

If the rust spots are passing through the seals then it's only a matter of time before it starts chewing them up. You could always put a zip tie on the stanchions to see how much the forks travel under normal use so then you'll know for sure.


WD40 is mainly Stoddard Solvent, similar to kerosene.

WD40 will NOT damage the fork seals! It is only reactive with natural rubber, even then it has to be literally immersed in the stuff for a long long time to make it swell slightly.
Oil seals used in automotive applications are not made of natural rubber, if they were then oil would attack them! WD40 is perfectly safe to use on your motorcycle. Just keep it away from brake components.

If anyone would like more info on this subject then let me know, I have shit loads, what a sad bastard! Much research has been carried out on the reactiveness of the stuff. There is soooo much urban myth about ooooh it will dissolve this and nooooo it will dissolve that. If anyone wants the scientific facts and would like to see test results I will post it up, If I have to Very Happy

it would great if you could send me some stuff about it i always hear that you shouldn't use it on you chain blah blah it will stuff the orings Very Happy and all that. i wouldn't imagine orings are natural rubber either:D
cheers
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irving
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PostPosted: 11:20 - 19 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Question

Last edited by irving on 18:35 - 19 Jan 2007; edited 1 time in total
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KatOwner
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PostPosted: 19:32 - 20 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

If WD40 destroys rubber.... my bike ought to be a wreck by now!

I bought a 5-litre can of the stuff a while back and apply it with a little garden sprayer. Narrow stream or fine mist depending on what I want. I mist it around all the bits and pieces when the council start salting, and it does a great job!

I also use fork gaiters... NOT those ugly plastic things...nope! Instead, I have a nice set of neoprene ones from Acerbis. It's a straight black cover of the stretchy black stuff they make wetsuits out of. Well worth the money I spent on them.
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Whosthedaddy
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PostPosted: 19:43 - 20 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

KatOwner wrote:
I bought a 5-litre can of the stuff.


Shocked

Where the hell did you get that?
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Jebus
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PostPosted: 20:58 - 20 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have seen the big cans, but very rarely think that most places wont bother as normal people will never want that much of the stuff
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Whosthedaddy
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PostPosted: 21:00 - 20 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jebus wrote:
i have seen the big cans, but very rarely think that most places wont bother as normal people will never want that much of the stuff


<cough cough>


The number of giant 400ml cans I've used recently, I could have done with a couple of vats of the stuff. Would have been cheaper in the long run Rolling Eyes
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loply
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PostPosted: 11:22 - 21 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've seen "cases" of 24x cans of WD40 on ebay before for pretty cheap. Not sure about the 5L tubs though - Screwfix sells one of the AC* alternatives in big tubs.
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extreme3d
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PostPosted: 12:21 - 21 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

irving wrote:
Then you have products such as ACF50 and FS365. ACF50 is very good but I don't rate the FS365 as the corrosion inhibitor it contains is water soluble, basically it will come off in the rain or with road spray requiring the need for frequent reapplication, which kinda defeats the object for me!


That's the idea of FS365 though.... It is supposed to be frequently applied and is applied AFTER a ride not before. Therefore it is sprayed onto road salt/dirt gained from a ride and soaks through. It is also the only product that actually reacts with salt and neutralises it. WD40 offers NO protection from salt unless the part is covered completely - and even then corrosion still takes place - just slowly as salt will still catalyse any reactants that it can even if slowed down heavily by the oil.

WD40 not 'flow' over a surface as FS365 does. This means unless you cover every single bit of the surface it will leave areas unprotected and rust spots will form. FS365 does flow. It prefers to make a few molecules thick layer and so spreads out on its own if left - the water content simply enables it to do this.

(If you know anything about microbiology then you would know that there is a very thin layer of water covering just about everything on this planet, even in the hot sunshine - it's what microbes live in and is what FS365 flows in Wink )

FS365 is a user active process and requires constant aplication to work. This may sound like hard work but it really isn't as only a fine mist is needed and it takes approx 30 seconds to apply. Using other single application products like ACF50 is all very well and good, but what if an area was missed Neutral ....

So to use FS365 you need to forget any ideas or pre-misconceptions you have about wanting to apply a 'spray and forget' corrosion protector.

Arrow Wash and dry the bike on Sunday
Arrow Ride the bike
Arrow At home spray the dirty/salty areas with a fine mist of FS365
Arrow Leave it alone and carry on with your evening
Arrow Monday morning - ride it to work, uni etc.
Arrow Monday evening - ride it back and park in garage
Arrow Spray a fine mist of FS365 over the dirty areas.
Arrow Leave it alone and carry on with your evening
Arrow Tuesday morning - ride it to work, uni etc.
Arrow Tuesday evening - ride it back and park in garage
Arrow Spray a fine mist of FS365 over the dirty areas.
Arrow Leave it alone and carry on with your evening

And so on until you get to Sunday again when it gets it's weekly wash.

Hopefully you will now see the real advantage of FS365. You only have to wash the bike once a week even in the middle of winter! I've heard so many people say you should wash a bike every day if you intend to ride though the winter months. Do that, and you will soon get bored and will either stop washing it (and let corrosion take over) or simply forget the bike and use the seemingly more practical car Shocked. Well with FS365 I've found you don't need to and if anyone doubts that come and see my SV. It's a cheap nasty Suzuki yet it still looks like new Thumbs Up
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irving
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PostPosted: 13:07 - 21 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Arrow

Last edited by irving on 23:17 - 19 Jan 2007; edited 1 time in total
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irving
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PostPosted: 14:53 - 22 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Arrow

Last edited by irving on 23:13 - 19 Jan 2007; edited 1 time in total
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KatOwner
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PostPosted: 20:34 - 23 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whosthedaddy wrote:
KatOwner wrote:
I bought a 5-litre can of the stuff.


Shocked

Where the hell did you get that?


Oddly enough, I found it in a local B&Q! One big plastic 5L can of the stuff with a free sprayer. Haven't seen it for sale again like that since....so it's possible they stopped doing it.
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