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Heated Grip question...

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Method
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 16:13 - 25 Oct 2006    Post subject: Heated Grip question... Reply with quote

Ok ive just got me a set of Oxford Hot Grips which i want to fit.

Basically my battery isnt what it used to be and i want to hook the grips up so that they cant be turned on unless the ignition is on...

That means that someone cant walk past and flick them on so they drain my battery / overheat while im not around...

Is there an easy way of doing this? Maybe earthing it through something else on the bike?

I thought i'd ask here before trying anything because im not the worlds best at electrics and i know theres a lot of electrically minded people on here Thumbs Up

Cheers
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T1z3R
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PostPosted: 16:21 - 25 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

cut the positive wire into the ON position of your igniition barrel.

theres other places you could take it from further back on the bike but with the grips being up front then its just as easy doing it that way.

dont forget to fuse them Thumbs Up
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nrml76
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PostPosted: 16:23 - 25 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=76064&highlight=heated+grips
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 16:59 - 25 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

As Kickstart says the rear brake light positive is the best place to draw power from via a relay and fuse.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 00:21 - 26 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Yep, rear brake light switch. Might already be a blade connector, but if not might also have its own wires attached so that it you make a mess of it all you have wrecked is a couple of quids worth of switch rather than wrecking the main loom.

Use that feed to trigger a relay, with the relay powered directly from the battery (put a fuse in the circuit).

Virtually no extra load through the stock wiring. Plumb it directly to the loom and you will be putting ~3a of extra load on the electrics which is enough to melt wires.

All the best

Keith
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 01:30 - 26 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

T1z3R wrote:
cut the positive wire into the ON position of your igniition barrel.

theres other places you could take it from further back on the bike but with the grips being up front then its just as easy doing it that way.

dont forget to fuse them Thumbs Up


Don't do this! You'll overload the ignition wiring. 'cutting into' a wire is really bad practice too, can cause all manner of problems.

Wire them straight from the battery with their own wire and use a fused relay in that wire to switch the supply on and off. Take the 'switching' current from a terminal, don't hack the loom about.

If you have spade terminals, you can get a 'piggyback' terminal that allows you to connect to it with no chopping of wires at all (they cost about 5p each). If you have bullet terminals, cut off the original female terminal and fit a double female one to connect into.

This way the original loom has not been messed with and you can easily disconnect the grips to put them on another bike if you want to without leaving a war-zone behind you.
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Gazdaman
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PostPosted: 15:09 - 26 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've done mine /directly/ off the front brake light switch.

It's also the way the official honda kits do it.

Gaz


Last edited by Gazdaman on 20:51 - 26 Oct 2006; edited 1 time in total
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vfr800
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PostPosted: 19:56 - 26 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can recommend the rear brake light switch method, you can hide the relay under the seat close to the battery and there's enough cable on the kit to get to the handle bars. Thumbs Up
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extreme3d
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PostPosted: 23:54 - 30 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, after reading Stinkwheels great post about relays I think I finally understand the things! I hate asking for help without doing some homework first so have drawn this up in paint: Hopefully it's correct?

https://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/extreme3d51/wiringdiagramheatedgrips.jpg
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 00:02 - 31 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep thats correct.
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extreme3d
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PostPosted: 00:04 - 31 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
Yep thats correct.


Cheers Thumbs Up

Karma
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 00:06 - 31 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I normally use ones with an 87A tab so they have twin lives but otherwise the same.

Just means I have a spare switched live to play with.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 03:53 - 31 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gazdaman wrote:
I've done mine /directly/ off the front brake light switch.

It's also the way the official honda kits do it.

Gaz


Just thought that just because Honda recommend a way of doing electrics it isn't necessarily a good things considering their well deserved reputation for reg/rec's.
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GearboxGeezer
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PostPosted: 12:11 - 31 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did this with neon lights... I was a ped boy OK!

Anyway, I connected my neon lights to my rear tail light, and since I never ride wthiout my lights on they would always be on when it was dark! Yet it never drained the battery Very Happy
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Gazdaman
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PostPosted: 15:40 - 31 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:

Just thought that just because Honda recommend a way of doing electrics it isn't necessarily a good things considering their well deserved reputation for reg/rec's.


Agreed, on their reg/rec front. But my heated grips have worked just fine without the added complication of a relay.

Gaz
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T1z3R
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PostPosted: 15:49 - 31 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

ive seen the error of my ways in hacking looms up Embarassed

will give this a go myself when i get some heated grips for the winter months Thumbs Up
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 20:23 - 31 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gazdaman wrote:


Agreed, on their reg/rec front. But my heated grips have worked just fine without the added complication of a relay.

Gaz


A relay isn't a complication its a safety feature that isolates the bikes loom from the grips. If and when the grips finally short out it won't affect the bike so you will be able to ride home.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 22:19 - 31 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Added to which the grips will pull 3a or so extra. Enough to melt the ignition switch wiring if you are unlucky, and certainly a massive extra load on a wire specced to cope with a 1/2a load for a tail light.

All the best

Keith
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:25 - 31 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:

Just thought that just because Honda recommend a way of doing electrics it isn't necessarily a good things considering their well deserved reputation for reg/rec's.


And yet perversely, the reg/recs they were making in the early 1980s are some of the best on the market. Almost every custom built bike on the road has a superdream reg/rec fitted.

I offered to fit one to my mates VFR 750 for a tenner and a couple of pints after his second reg/rec went tits-up. He preferred instead to fork out £80 for an original replacement (two of which had already failed). There's no helping some people.
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irving
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PostPosted: 22:35 - 31 Oct 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Arrow

Last edited by irving on 20:45 - 21 Jan 2007; edited 1 time in total
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kawakid
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PostPosted: 23:09 - 13 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to clarify this.

It isn't the rear brake light? (Surely this is only live when the foots down).

Its the switch that feeds this, ie from when you put your foot down? (Or am I missing something)

Cheers.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 23:14 - 13 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

The rear brake light switch will have a powered feed that is live when the ignition is on, whether the rear brake is pressed or not. Split a wire off from that to trigger the relay.

All the best

Keith
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mr.z
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PostPosted: 23:27 - 13 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another good one is the pilot/parking light, which is completely bloody pointless otherwise (mine runs my gps)

Anyone wanting relays get down to your local car breakers and buy arms full for £1/2 and not the £5 most places will charge.
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kawakid
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PostPosted: 15:21 - 14 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
the rear brake light positive is the best place to draw power from via a relay and fuse.


My quote 2 above was just to say its not the brake light, its the brake light switch.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 17:51 - 14 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I tapped into the live feed to the left switch cluster which is fed from the block connector by the headstock on the GSXR. This can safely feed the indicators and horn. Assuming the horn draws 1 amp, the indicators 2x21W= 3.5amp so the draw is potentially 4.5 amps or thereabouts, so I reckon I can quite happily pull the 3 or 4 amps for the grips from the loom before the switch and still be safe using the indicators. I stripped the casing off the feed wire near the multi-plug connector and soldered the tail in for the grips, released the pin from the conector block and used heat-shrink sleeve to insulate it. So far it's been 100%.
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