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Itchy
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PostPosted: 08:25 - 15 Nov 2006    Post subject: rvf400 Reply with quote

Enlighten me as to how other than the looks (lights at the front , fake air scoops mounted on the tankl )on the front and lower top speed the NC35 is diffferent to an NC30 , I've looked around good NC30s are £1700ish (with crapper project bikes being about £900-£1200) , i can get a so so NC35 for that, cat C/D.

any thoughts?

As said I'm a lookin for a restoration project rather than a jump on ride machine.
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EuropeanNC30R...
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PostPosted: 08:33 - 15 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Better 'stance' as standard, some people complain the nc30 is slow steering - 35 sits higher at the back. The 35 also has slightly better midrange and the standard system has a bolt on can, so no need to saw the original off like on a 30.

£1700 for a 'good' nc30 sounds way over the top, my Dad bought a minter end of last year for 1100, and sold it for 1300 this summer.
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Cillit-BANG
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PostPosted: 10:48 - 15 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

USD forks should be a bit of an improvement too. Tyres are 17" all round too IIRC which makes choosing rubber a lot easier.

For £1700 you should be expecting low millage, recently & spotlessly rebuilt NC30 and I should imagine either pristine original fairings or a mint tyga type affair. £1000 should get you a nice example though.

If your looking for a project, personally I would get the NC30. The spares are everywhere and cheap as chips and there are loads of aftermarket upgrades kicking about. They are very popular bikes both on the road and on track.
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Itchy
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PostPosted: 13:47 - 15 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

as said I've been looking for ages and people want outrageous prices for their old NC30s no matter how battered they are, which moved into cat D damaged NC35s,

I'd like to buy an OK NC30 and do it up but gits like Mozza recently who outbidded me on ebay ,and then decided not to go buy it, are constantly pissing me off.
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Itchy
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PostPosted: 13:48 - 15 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

maurice wrote:
£1700 for a 'good' nc30 sounds way over the top, my Dad bought a minter end of last year for 1100, and sold it for 1300 this summer.


you actually live quite close to me , so any thing for same PM me.
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Deano
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PostPosted: 15:17 - 15 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

you should consider the cbr's aswell. are you on 400greybike yet. their was nc30 going for £500 seen plenty of times nc30 go for under a grand you just have to be patient.
have you been considering race bikes? ones that can be made back to road legal.
nc35 generally always go for £2000 never seen many for anything under £2000

beside its easy enough to put the usd front end on a nc30.
the carbs and loom are the main difference between the two and the 35 can have a hrc igntion kit fitted which gives a 10bhp increase in the midrange. this cant be fitted to the nc30 well knowone yet has had the guts to try it yet anyway, but when i get to the electrics i'll certainly be giving this a try.
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v4forlife
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PostPosted: 16:04 - 15 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

as a general rule, nc30's are faster then 35's, and 35's handle better, but they are that close, its hard to tell the difference. it is just a case of what you can afford and which you prefer, just like every other group of bikes, be it 600's, thous big naked etc. all down to preference.
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Itchy
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PostPosted: 19:39 - 15 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Deano wrote:
you should consider the cbr's aswell. are you on 400greybike yet. their was nc30 going for £500 seen plenty of times nc30 go for under a grand you just have to be patient.
have you been considering race bikes? ones that can be made back to road legal.
nc35 generally always go for £2000 never seen many for anything under £2000

beside its easy enough to put the usd front end on a nc30.
the carbs and loom are the main difference between the two and the 35 can have a hrc igntion kit fitted which gives a 10bhp increase in the midrange. this cant be fitted to the nc30 well knowone yet has had the guts to try it yet anyway, but when i get to the electrics i'll certainly be giving this a try.



I've watched 400gb but not seen anything for sale there for ages
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G
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PostPosted: 19:51 - 15 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cillit-BANG wrote:
USD forks should be a bit of an improvement too.

Turning forks upside down doesn't make them suspend better - better forks suspend better, whatever their orientation Smile.

17" rear wheel is a definite plus in my book.
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 19:53 - 15 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

im a member on 400GB and most NC's are re-built on there due to the nature of the site and are selling for about 1500+. Dont get many sheds on there as people on the site are mechanically literate and restore them.
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Cillit-BANG
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PostPosted: 21:28 - 15 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Turning forks upside down doesn't make them suspend better - better forks suspend better, whatever their orientation .


A USD fork of similar price and spec may not suspend any more proficiently however they should be stiffer. Offering less tuck under braking and coping better with any twisting/torsional forces.
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mchaggis
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PostPosted: 22:31 - 15 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Of course they suspend better, besides anything else, the unspung weight is cut down. That's pretty much the main reason for them, isn't it?
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colin1
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PostPosted: 22:42 - 15 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah what he said

suspension can respond quicker if its mass is less
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craigs23
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PostPosted: 07:09 - 16 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's mostly down to looks - or atleast, that's where my biggest comparisons between the two models lie.

Some say the 17 inch rear wheel gives a better choice of rubber - which is true, but you're only going to really take advantage of this point if you want to fit slicks - most H-rated recommended-for-400s rubber come in both 17 and 18 inch guises. The NC30 is slightly slower to steer due to the 18 inch rear, or atleast it felt that way, but both models will be vastly improved by replacing knackered rear shocks and sorting tired suspension (they are atleast 10 years old by now, and also set up for Japanese riders).

The front forks are again, pretty much another cosmetic. Late VFR forks and RVF forks have the same internals and give little to no difference in performance. The VFR's are easier to service though (at least I found them easier), but again, both would do better if rebuilt, revalved, resprung and setup by a pro.

Engine characteristics - well, I didn't notice many differences. The VFR has a tall first couple of gears, which makes the RVF easier to get off the line, but I prefer the longer geared NC30 - first is actually more useable on the road rather than just a quick getaway. I have a HRC ignition advancer on my NC30 (which is the equivalent to the plug in HRC CDi I had on my RVF). It won't give a massive amount more power, but would help the bike to rev a little free'er, increases the rev ceiling and also removes the fluffy spot around 6,000 on both models. Only really recommended with the use of a well setup full system.

So the biggest difference I've found is price. You're paying up to a grand more for an arguably more refined, prettier design - is that really worth the cash (considering you could add that amount in parts to an already good condition NC30?)
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G
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PostPosted: 08:31 - 16 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

mchaggis wrote:
Of course they suspend better, besides anything else, the unspung weight is cut down.

I would say that the difference in unsprung weight and stiffness is no where near the difference different internals make - or being well serviced and set to the right settings.
I wouldn't have thought your average rider would noticed the difference, presuming everything else was the same.

Craig:
Consider availability of second hand tyres (race and otherwise) and also that there are more ranges which include a 160/17 than 160/18 (or whatever the width) I'm pretty sure. Also should be easier to get 'off the shelf'.
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minesweeper
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PostPosted: 11:26 - 16 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Both perform nigh on identical so just comes down to finding a good example of the style you prefer. Both bikes haved aged well in the look departments (anyone who disagrees check out the cbr6 from the same era)
I went for nc35 because i prefered the look of the upside down front end, the fact that i could fit up to date calipers easily (bracket required on vfr400 for 20 quid) and because one came up cheaply.

All that said id watch 400greybike as others have said because most of the owners on that can give you all the help and assitence you require.
Check out mine and craigs bikes for mods that are available.
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Itchy
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PostPosted: 13:16 - 16 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

any thoughts on an FZR400?
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Deano
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PostPosted: 14:26 - 16 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

the fzr has the worst engine of the 400 bunch in STOCK trim.
if you want to tune it tho then its comparitively the bost with the zxr.
100bhp can be had from a fzr but the conrods let go after 100 miles. Shocked their was one for sale which raced in the NW200.

i must of seen atleast 5 nc30's this week with a buy ti now of less than £1000 on ebay this week. i cant understand why your having problems finding a cheap one.
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Cillit-BANG
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PostPosted: 17:58 - 16 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I popped onto the Pirelli stand at the NEC and was told they did nothing in an 18" rear wheel.
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craigs23
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PostPosted: 18:47 - 16 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I popped onto the Pirelli stand at the NEC and was told they did nothing in an 18" rear wheel.


Well they're wrong. Wink

After loving them on my Blade, I'm opting for a rear Diablo for my NC30, with a Corsa 3 front, come time for the bike's next tyre change.

https://www.pirellityre.com/web/catalog/moto/moto_catalogo_schedaDescription.page?categoria=/catalog/moto/hypersport/none&vehicleType=MOTO&product_id=1923&uri=/pirellityre/en_IT/browser/xml/catalog/moto/MOTO_MV_MVDIABLO_HYP.xml
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Itchy
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PostPosted: 20:42 - 16 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Deano wrote:
the fzr has the worst engine of the 400 bunch in STOCK trim.
if you want to tune it tho then its comparitively the bost with the zxr.
100bhp can be had from a fzr but the conrods let go after 100 miles. Shocked their was one for sale which raced in the NW200.

i must of seen atleast 5 nc30's this week with a buy ti now of less than £1000 on ebay this week. i cant understand why your having problems finding a cheap one.



so have I ,generally far away though , I've think I've found a 35 though
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Itchy
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PostPosted: 14:25 - 25 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

As said the trouble continues ,

Last week an RVF400 owner decided not to sell it me even though I had a fist full of cash counted receipt written out when it came to sign the V5C , he changed his mind and
decided to not sell. v good condition.

Today I went to see 3 NC30s , one was advertised as mint condition but was an utter dog
with more holes in it than a collander and had been down more times than a dollar hooker

the other one was advertised semi truthfully , in that it was an OK runner , sans fairing etc
it was an utter dog too even the frame was suffering corrosion and going all white.

The final one was one that wouldn't start even with a booster unit attached to it,

took 4 hours out of my life to go look at these , as said its hard to find an OK one lest a good one.

to boot I did about 170 motorway miles ,
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colin1
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PostPosted: 14:40 - 25 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

as decent 400s are hard to find, and aint cheap for what they are, it might be worth considering a thundercat or a tt600

96 thundercats about £1500, 2001 tt600 about £1500
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Itchy
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PostPosted: 14:56 - 25 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

colin1 wrote:
as decent 400s are hard to find, and aint cheap for what they are, it might be worth considering a thundercat or a tt600

96 thundercats about £1500, 2001 tt600 about £1500


Yeah I know I've been looking for those too , problem is I can't afford the insurance jump from grp12 to 15/16 which those bikes are around , I live in a very crap area ,
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