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Pulling away on SV650s

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SoulRider
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PostPosted: 13:35 - 12 Dec 2006    Post subject: Pulling away on SV650s Reply with quote
As some of you know i have an SV650S and i am relatively new to biking. However when i filter up to the front of traffic lights and i puill away i can loose most drivers but im not flying of the line like i should be its more pull away then rip the throttle open.

Is there a technique for pulling away from the line Fast, a racing start. Ive seen other bikers do it and hear on here alot how people do it. Im guessing its something to do with pulling away with to little revs or clutch controll as im probably slipping the clutch out to slowly.

Anyway any pointers, tips or help is appreciated as i dont really want to be shown up by some 1.1 nova Embarassed
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Mooncatt
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PostPosted: 13:40 - 12 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote
good post, im in the same boat as you. i set off then let the throttle rip too, could do with a few tips myself on this. Thumbs Up
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.....
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PostPosted: 13:42 - 12 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote
Whack the revs up high and use the clutch to modulate your speed.
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Stiffler
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PostPosted: 13:44 - 12 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote
It's something that is covered here in the past. Here is a previous thread

I think the genral consensous is rev highly and control the power by slipping the clutch. And basically coming as close to dumping the clutch as you can. But I'm just a noob Confused

Tim
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Stevie B
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PostPosted: 13:48 - 12 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote
It's all about using the revs where the most power is.

So in your case, where i guess there is a pretty broad spread of power and no 'power band' so to speak, i would say...

Just before you pull off, get the revs up to half way up the rev range (dunno what your sv redlines at so don't know where half way is Question )

Then, when you want to go start slipping the clutch out and as you are letting it out, feed more throttle in so the revs stay around the same point

Do this until the clutch is fully out by which time a change up to second will be virtually immediately required


Thats how i do it anyway and it seems to work.

Someone will be along soon though to explai it better. Laughing

SB Thumbs Up
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SoulRider
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PostPosted: 13:48 - 12 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote
BLUEX5 wrote:
The basic way is to dial in more revs before feeding the clutch out, how many is dependant on the engine / bike. Don't go crazy, too many revs will make you look a twat, stress the bike and possibly flip you over backwards if you really get it wrong. Best thing is to just experiment and get a feel for it.


Did that on my first lesson over year or so back, stuck in neutrall and instructor was shit. Panicked had throttle fully open and stuck it in first and let go of the clutch. Bike shot of in a vertical manner and ended up on side walk. Was only a old yamaha 125
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Clanger
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PostPosted: 13:53 - 12 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote
Be careful dumping the clutch on the sv, my front end lifts up far too easily - the last thing you want at the lights!
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Mooncatt
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PostPosted: 13:58 - 12 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote
well redline on mine is 14,500 rpm if i wanna TRY and get of quickly i usually give it bout 5000
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Stevie B
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PostPosted: 14:12 - 12 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote
Give it more than that, give it 9 or 10k and used the method above Thumbs Up
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 14:39 - 12 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote
Because it's a twin you want to be using about 7-8k. Roughly where the peak torque is.... on inline fours i would say nearer 10k. If the front starts to life just give a wee dab on the back brake to settle it down.

I have a gixxer for, but standard to the first gear isn't as tall as the SP like above ( think 80-90mph in first) but you still need to rev the shite out of it.
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 14:40 - 12 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote
o and you want to be off teh clutch as soon as you can without it bogging down or jolting. Go to a car park or practice at EVERY set of lights.
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drumwrecker
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PostPosted: 14:42 - 12 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote
I can't believe what I'm reading. Are you all nuts?
Not only are you putting yourselves in danger by getting to the front and then accelerating hard away from lights and being the first to hit the red light jumper but you are mistreating your engine, tyres and chain which are all expensive to replace. Ride defensively and survive. I also have a SV650s and wouldn't dream of treating it like that. It's a great bike and will do anything you ask of it but do what you are doing and it will break sooner or later and/or you will be dead.
Get it out of your system and pay out for some track days with good tuition.
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FreshAL
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PostPosted: 14:46 - 12 Dec 2006    Post subject: Re: Pulling away on SV650s Reply with quote
SoulRider wrote:
...i am relatively new to biking...


December, with cold tyres, wet roads, leaves and mud is not the ideal time to be practising launching your bike.

Clanger wrote:
Be careful dumping the clutch on the sv, my front end lifts up far too easily - the last thing you want at the lights!


Yup, more than 4k revs and the front will come up. Might spin the rear with the wet roads at the moment. Either of these can lead to a proper Shocked if you're not expecting it.

I got my first SV in December last year, and rode all through winter. I'd say just take it easy. You'll have plenty of little slides and heart stopping moments then when it comes to summer you'll be pulling away full whack no bother.

I've found the best way for pulling away quick(er) I'm still slow though is

    •3.5-4.5k revs
    •Feed the clutch out. Quicker than normal, but not just dumping it
    •Increase throttle as the clutch is going out
    •If you're going to launch off the lights, have a good look a looong way ahead. Things waaaay up ahead come up awful quick when you're going 0-60 in about 5 seconds.
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FreshAL
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PostPosted: 14:49 - 12 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote
drumwrecker wrote:
...putting yourselves in danger by getting to the front and then accelerating hard away from lights and being the first to hit the red light jumper...


Good point, wish I'd though to say that. There's some lights round here where being too quick off the mark is asking to get squashed
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Dom
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PostPosted: 15:08 - 12 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote
drumwrecker wrote:
Not only are you putting yourselves in danger by getting to the front and then accelerating hard away from lights and being the first to hit the red light jumper but you are mistreating your engine, tyres and chain which are all expensive to replace. Ride defensively and survive. I also have a SV650s and wouldn't dream of treating it like that. It's a great bike and will do anything you ask of it but do what you are doing and it will break sooner or later and/or you will be dead.


Filtering to the front at red lights is one of the best things about having a bike, and to sweepingly call it dangerous is just plain stupid.

Equally I wouldn't say you were mistreating any aspect of the bike by accelerating hard either. Yes your tyres and chain & sprockets won't last as long but it's only a 650, even soft sticky tyres should last at least 4,000 miles regardless. 'Mistreating' implies doing something the bike's not intended for and a quick get away requires no more than 4-5000 rpm on an SV, hardly bouncing off the rev limiter.

I'm not saying a beginner to riding should be flying up the inside of cars at red lights and pulling away doing a 12 o'clock wheelie, especially at this time of year, but if the rider has a little common sense it should be possible fairly often to make his way to the front at lights and pull away ahead of the rest of the traffic.
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SoulRider
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PostPosted: 15:08 - 12 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote
True i have had a few heart stopping moments allready as the raods are bad. I know to take it easy in the winter and will practise more in the summer.

From what i can see though you basically keep the revs up, slip the clutch out quickly and increase the throttle as you release the clutch. Think i will take it easy and just progress little bits at a time. Dont want to go over the top first attemp and end up writing my bike of Sad

Need the summer to come, getting a bike when winter is starting is not good idea Sad
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Dom
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PostPosted: 15:11 - 12 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote
Oh and if you are gonna filter to the front at this time of the year keep a VERY close eye out for gravel when you're pulling away as it tends to get marshalled into the area between lanes, i.e. exactly where you're pulling away from.
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drumwrecker
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PostPosted: 15:37 - 12 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote
The best idea at traffic lights is to be behind the first car and let that clear the way for you and gently pass when convenient. You won't be far behind the loon in front with all the revs who is taking all the risks.
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Dom
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PostPosted: 15:52 - 12 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote
As I've already said, filtering to the front is not always unsafe, nor should someone doing so automatically be branded a 'loon'. It needn't even be risky.
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G
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PostPosted: 15:53 - 12 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote
drumwrecker wrote:
Ride defensively and survive. I also have a SV650s and wouldn't dream of treating it like that. It's a great bike and will do anything you ask of it but do what you are doing and it will break sooner or later and/or you will be dead.

What, are you saying you actually ride your bike on the road? You do realise that your bike will break a lot sooner and you're much more likely to die that if you just leave it in a hermetically sealed case.

Smile

Yes, it's a slightly higher risk to go to the front of the traffic and accelerate hard enough that the front is just skipping above the tarmac, but it sure is more fun!
And, that's one of the reasons I ride bikes - fun.

I've had a few SVs in different states of tune. On my 72(rw)hp downgeared race bike it's quite a bit harder as it's quite hard to keep the front down.
The road bike wasn't so bad (just sold it).
To get a decent launch - rev to about 6k I'd say and slip the clutch until the road speed catches up with the revs, from there roll the throttle on smootly and quickly, but making sure it's not enough to do much more than take the weight of the forks.
While the SV has got quite a smooth power delivery, it's still not a very powerful bike and does seem to bog down a bit if you just open the throttle after dumping the clutch at low revs.

However, if you're just starting out, I'd suggest you start at a bit lower revs and /always/ make sure you don't dump the clutch - let it out smoothly. As mentioned look out for any debris and best to 'practice' when there's not others around.
Up to the first gear change the SV will keep up with most sports bikes (around 50).

Note that a trackday won't give you this kind of experience - drag racing might and 'real' circuit racing will give something a lot more intense.
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steveh
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PostPosted: 15:56 - 12 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote
I think some one on here described it as, "feed the revs into the clutch"


i thought it was pretty accurate.


Steve.
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SoulRider
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PostPosted: 16:44 - 12 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote
So this is how i see it, obviously try at lower revs to start but this is what ive gatherd so far

Get revs to about 6k and slip the clutch out at the same time increasing throttle so revs stay the same, when clutch is about 1/2 to completely out begin to open the throttle smoothly but quickly. Is that right?

I will start at lower revs to get the hang of it first though. Will probably take some getting used to with slipping the clutch out, but hopefully wont take to long. Bring on the summer, can finally get rid of my little chicken strips on the back tyre as well Very Happy
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Jack_Cheese
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PostPosted: 16:44 - 12 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote
Big_Ham wrote:
Roughly where the peak torque is.


Torque is irrelevant, power is what counts. two bikes with the same power but different torque just indicates different levels of engine flexibility, hence why torquey cars are better for towing.

Power is just the rate at which torque is applied.

Jack
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