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Whats the best way to drill out a big hole in ally....

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jimbothe
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PostPosted: 23:20 - 20 Jan 2007    Post subject: Whats the best way to drill out a big hole in ally.... Reply with quote

Whats the best way to drill out a big hole in ally when a big hole already exists? Im talking about top yoke clamps that go round the forks.Bought a set to fit a renthal bar and found upon closer inspection that they are 4mm too small Crying or Very sad

any good ideas? someone suggested using a hole cutter but clamp the fork clamp to a piece of wood first to make sure it's dead centre.Isnt there an easier way?
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0ddball
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PostPosted: 23:30 - 20 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

You mean the holes that the actual forks pass though? It has to be very accurate to get an even clamping pressure. You're best off taking it to a machine shop and they'll do it on a milling machine (take a fork with you or measure the stanchion diameter accurately with a vernier caliper).
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:33 - 20 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep. Five minute job on a milling machine.
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jimbothe
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PostPosted: 23:36 - 20 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok so just go to a local engineering shop and ask them to do it? will they take a little job on like this?


i know the measurements now and it's exactly the 4mm difference
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0ddball
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PostPosted: 23:40 - 20 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah. It's sometimes hard to find one that can be bothered taking on small jobs. Avoid the big places that mainly do commercial contracts and try to find a little 2/3 man backstreet workshop set up.

Your local bike shop might even be able to reccomment somewhere.
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jimbothe
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PostPosted: 23:43 - 20 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok thanks very much Thumbs Up

I think i may know somewhere that might just do it.It's a local firm that make small parts and flanges for a pipe company.Maybe they will have a milling machine. Smile
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:52 - 20 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

1samarg wrote:

I think i may know somewhere that might just do it.It's a local firm that make small parts and flanges for a pipe company.Maybe they will have a milling machine. Smile


Sounds perfect, someone may even do it for you in their lunch break for a few beers if you ask nicely.
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jimbothe
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PostPosted: 00:03 - 21 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

offer them a tenner on the side you mean? is that enough or more?
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0ddball
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PostPosted: 00:11 - 21 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

It shouldn't be more than a tenner. A lot of the cost in an engineering shop is in setting the machines up. Your job doesn't need any special tooling or measurements so as stinkwheels says, it's a 5 min job.
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jimbothe
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PostPosted: 00:19 - 21 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool thanks guys Thumbs Up Thumbs Up
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gixerboy
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PostPosted: 15:02 - 21 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you can do that in 5 mins I would be impressed. In fact if you could bore them within half an hour I would be impressed. The diameters need to be a decent size, you cant just stick a drill down them, the correct way is to bore them out. To do that you will need to clock the yokes up so that you get the bores in the correct relation to the steering stem. Then you have to get them to the correct size. I think there is a good hour or 2 work in them.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:34 - 21 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

What? You just need to clamp them down to the table, mark out where you want the edge of the bigger hole to finish and mill away.

Last time I had it done on a set of GS500 yokes (took out all four holes an extra 2mm so I could fit some wacky forks to my Jawa), the guy charged me a fiver.
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gixerboy
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PostPosted: 17:03 - 21 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats the difference between doing the job properly and just bodging it like many people seem to do. To line the forks correctly you need to bore the holes at the correct offset from the steering stem. I suppose a gs500 handles so badly you wouldnt notice if the forks were in alignment or not.
To do the job properly it will take at least an hour just to set everything up.
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jimbothe
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PostPosted: 17:47 - 21 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Thats the difference between doing the job properly and just bodging it like many people seem to do. To line the forks correctly you need to bore the holes at the correct offset from the steering stem. I suppose a gs500 handles so badly you wouldnt notice if the forks were in alignment or not.
To do the job properly it will take at least an hour just to set everything up.


I think you misunderstand.I do not want to drill out a top yoke where it would have to be pretty perfect.These are the clamps that sit on the top of the forks to hold renthal bars 'fork clamp risers' Thumbs Up
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owdamer
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PostPosted: 19:41 - 21 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you mean something like these then its pretty straight forward,
If the clamps are part of the actual yoke then its going to need a bit of setting up to do it right. Make sure that you can afford to lose 4mm from the clamp though. You dont want to end up with the bars breaking off the first time you brake hard...... Shocked
Either way its not a 5 min job and its not just a case of throwing a bigger drill down it. You only need to be a fraction of an inch out on one of the clamps and you bars will be an inch out of line.


https://www.bmikarts.com/shop/images/241.JPG
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:09 - 21 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

gixerboy wrote:
Thats the difference between doing the job properly and just bodging it like many people seem to do. To line the forks correctly you need to bore the holes at the correct offset from the steering stem. I suppose a gs500 handles so badly you wouldnt notice if the forks were in alignment or not.
To do the job properly it will take at least an hour just to set everything up.


And there was me thinking the original hole centres in the yokes were in the right place and making them uniformly bigger by 2.00mm (+0.025mm) is an accurate way of doing it. I suppose it's rash to assume that suzuki made the hole centres in the right place originally then?

That's me learned my lesson.

Alternatively, one might conclude that someone didn't read any of the posts properly and assumed someone was drilling holes in a yoke from scratch in a fresh piece of alloy rather than simply making the holes in his handlebar clamps a bit larger (presumably from 7/8" to 11/8" to fit twinwall renthals).

Just like he assumed I was fitting the yokes to a GS500 and not a Jawa (which incidentally, does handle like a pig, especially with 4" over-standard forks and a 21"x1.50 wheel)
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jimbothe
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PostPosted: 21:32 - 21 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

How do i post a pic? i can show you what i mean then
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:39 - 21 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get your picture on your computer. Reply to this thread, click 'add an attachment'. When the page reloads, click 'browse', find your file and select it. If you want to add another click 'add attachment' if that's it click 'submit'

Incidentally, most handlebars are a standard size, 7/8" diameter. Specialist renthall twinwall, tapered and fatbar are bigger. I presume this is what you are trying to fit?
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gixerboy
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PostPosted: 21:49 - 21 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
And there was me thinking the original hole centres in the yokes were in the right place and making them uniformly bigger by 2.00mm (+0.025mm) is an accurate way of doing it. I suppose it's rash to assume that suzuki made the hole centres in the right place originally then?

And you know someone that can do that in 5 mins? I couldnt even get the job bolted to the bed of my machine in that time. Let alone clock the yokes up and bore them to a thou tolerance. Suzuki do get them wrong by the way, I have checked a few yokes and they were nearly half a mm different possibly due to the yoke being bent.

Quote:
Alternatively, one might conclude that someone didn't read any of the posts properly and assumed someone was drilling holes in a yoke from scratch in a fresh piece of alloy rather than simply making the holes in his handlebar clamps a bit larger


Its easier to drill a hole in position when you are starting from scratch. Drills tend to wonder off when you are picking a hole up. Yes I did misread, comes from having too little time to read everything, I just scan read. Im sorry about that. Too much to do so little time.

Quote:
That's me learned my lesson


Good, I dont want to teach you all about engineering, it a complex subject and takes years to learn.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:02 - 21 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Who's boring anything?

They were milled out in a sideyways fashion on a big f-off milling machine. He scribed the new diameter on the surface, clamped it to the bed with some tool in the hole to make sure it was perfectly vertical then milled away the metal that was no longer needed.

I was probably exaggerating about the fineness of the tolerance, but the tolerance on a pinch clamp leaves a fair bit of room to manouver anyway. He took about 20 minutes to do both yokes. Hence my five minute estimate for bar clamps
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gixerboy
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PostPosted: 22:04 - 21 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

The ONLY way to get a hole correct without it moving is to either use circular interolation on a CNC mill or to bore it. As I said before, he bodged it.
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TheShaggyDA
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PostPosted: 22:12 - 21 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Half round bastard file would sort it.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:20 - 21 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I preferr to call it old fashioned engineering myself. If you've got it marked up on the surface, you could indeed do it with a half-round bastard file (and a square), it would just take a long time.

We are also talking about fitting them on a bike that has a twin cylinder engine with pistons that are measurably different diameters and measurably oval (ving a standard vernier calliper). I did weigh them and file the skirt of one to make them weigh the same though
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jimbothe
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PostPosted: 02:36 - 22 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

The piece i need to drill out is the bottom piece thats sitting on the desk.The hole for the renthal bar is the correct size but the hole that needs to bolt around the top of my fork needs to be 4mm bigger.
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 04:54 - 22 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

1samarg wrote:
The piece i need to drill out is the bottom piece thats sitting on the desk.The hole for the renthal bar is the correct size but the hole that needs to bolt around the top of my fork needs to be 4mm bigger.

Take off the vertical part so ya just left with the 2 parts that clamp onto the forklegs.. & then run it over to yer local machinist
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