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So, I've got a new battery... what now?

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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 20:35 - 23 Jan 2007    Post subject: So, I've got a new battery... what now? Reply with quote
Update on the KE100 which was modified to run without a battery.

I have bought a battery which includes an inline fuse (my bike doesn't have any fuses at all at the moment!)

In the Haynes manual it says that the Positive battery terminal is a white wire. I can only see 1 white wire which comes out of the loom under the tank and has been cut. Logically this should be the correct wire.

However I tested this supposition by connecting the wire to the positive wire hanging off of the battery, and tried to connect the negative wire to the frame (the bike is negative earth according to the haynes).

Nothing happened. No lights or anything.

Is there any other way of finding out if I have the right wire? I don't fancy spending a day with my multimeter, and even if I have to do that I wouldn't know where to start!

Any hints or tips?
____________________
British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 21:46 - 23 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote
It occurred to me afterwards that whatever is 'replacing' the battery is still connected, so if I connect the battery there'll just be a short circuit.

I have no idea what is replacing the battery, or if its just the battery terminal connected to the frame.

I also discovered that I had earlier disconnected the kill switch, which I have now reconnected.
I put everything back to how it was and checked for spark, and now there is none.

Still no spark.

Damn.

I also found that the normal knobby bit on top of the spark plug isn't there, just the thread. Does that mean the top of the spark plug is stuck inside the plug cap? The HT lead, cap etc are all part of the coil.
____________________
British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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Odie
World Chat Champion



Joined: 24 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 22:44 - 23 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote
By the sound of it you could do with another loom, you should be able to get one from a bike breakers, make sure it hasnt been attacked by the "blue scotch lock monster".
If its not original dont touch it.
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 22:48 - 23 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote
Odie wrote:
By the sound of it you could do with another loom, you should be able to get one from a bike breakers, make sure it hasnt been attacked by the "blue scotch lock monster".
If its not original dont touch it.


I understand what you are saying, but the loom is so well ensconsed within the bike I suspect I'd have to strip the whole thing down. And it was working at one time.

Plus all of the stuff under the seat looks really really like it was done professionally. Its quite likely if I get another loom that it will be in a worse state. I just need to work out why there is no spark.

It is entirely possible there is something wrong with the kill switch, which is why when I reconnected it there was no spark.
____________________
British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 22:51 - 23 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote
Hi

Headlight probably only comes on with the engine running.

I would follow where the wires come from, but likely the wires going into the battery substitute are likely the battery wires.

The kill switch will work by earthing the ignition system to stop the engine. Just check you haven't wired it directly to earth.

With the spark plug, the nobbly bit is removeable to suit the 2 main types of plug cap.

All the best

Keith
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 00:26 - 24 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote
KE100 will run if you just take the battery out although you should really add a resistor, cant remember the value but no one does.
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Odie
World Chat Champion



Joined: 24 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 08:41 - 24 Jan 2007    Post subject: Re: So, I've got a new battery... what now? Reply with quote
MarJay wrote:
I don't fancy spending a day with my multimeter, and even if I have to do that I wouldn't know where to start!

Looks like your going to have to or pay some-one to do it for you.
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G
The Voice of Reason



Joined: 02 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 10:34 - 24 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote
Probably worth checking that bit that I said 'that looks aftermarket' (square resistor looking bit).

Also possible, looking at the connectors, that they may have just plugged the old ones together?

Can have a look again tis weekend if you weekend.
Reckon it shouldn't be /too/ hard to work out with a wiring diagram and a multimeter Smile.
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 11:04 - 24 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote
G wrote:

Also possible, looking at the connectors, that they may have just plugged the old ones together?


Well, all of those wires we looked at were for the taillight and the rear indicators I think.

The battery lead is white according to the diagram, and none of those neatly plugged up leads at the back are actually white.

I need to get the bike back together, I'm also having difficulty in getting the stanchion out of the fork leg lower. I've removed the circlip but it won't budge, and it isn't a cartridge fork so there are no internals to unscrew.

Once I get the bike back to looking vaguely like a bike again I'll have another bash at the electrics.
____________________
British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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Odie
World Chat Champion



Joined: 24 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 19:52 - 24 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote
Some times its easier to rip the whole lot out and start again, thats what i do if its been played with.
Dont matter if it looks like its been done properly, you dont know if the person that did it followed the standard wiring colour codes for that bike!
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 21:59 - 24 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote
MarJay wrote:
The battery lead is white according to the diagram, and none of those neatly plugged up leads at the back are actually white.


How old is the wiring diagram? Might well be something that Kawasaki changed in later models. After all a while battery lead is hardly standard and obvious.

MarJay wrote:
I'm also having difficulty in getting the stanchion out of the fork leg lower. I've removed the circlip but it won't budge, and it isn't a cartridge fork so there are no internals to unscrew.


Take it you have removed the bolt at the very bottom? If so time to get G over and between the pair of you yank the forks apart like a giant oily Christmas cracker.

All the best

Keith
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 23:49 - 24 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote
Kickstart wrote:

How old is the wiring diagram? Might well be something that Kawasaki changed in later models. After all a while battery lead is hardly standard and obvious.

Its the Diagram for the B10 -B15 models and mine is a B15.

Kickstart wrote:

Take it you have removed the bolt at the very bottom? If so time to get G over and between the pair of you yank the forks apart like a giant oily Christmas cracker.


There is no bolt, and the Haynes manual says it should just pull apart as you say. As I said earlier in the thread there are no internals to bolt to the bottom of the forks.
____________________
British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 00:50 - 25 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote
Hi

I would be absolutely astounded if there is not a bolt. Inside the fork there will be a spring and a damper rod, the damper rod being bolted to the fork lower, normally with a bolt that you cannot see going vertically upwards, hidden by the spindle.

All the best

Keith
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 10:17 - 25 Jan 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote
Kickstart wrote:
Hi

I would be absolutely astounded if there is not a bolt. Inside the fork there will be a spring and a damper rod, the damper rod being bolted to the fork lower, normally with a bolt that you cannot see going vertically upwards, hidden by the spindle.

All the best

Keith


Well, be astounded, there is no bolt. It seems according to the Haynes manual only the KH100 has cartridge forks. The KE100 simply has springs floating in oil as far as I can tell.

Mark.
____________________
British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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